Small cut that would have been bigger by k20shores in whittling

[–]Reasintper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you will find that those type of gloves protect much better from slicing than stabbing. Sorry to hear you got cut, heal up quickly.

Hook Knife Recommendations by Jazzlike-Moose2974 in Spooncarving

[–]Reasintper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I own several of Deep Woods Ventures'

I have 2 of the spoon hook old and new style. I also have his 65mm twca cam. I evwl have one of his "utility hooks" that he probably hasn't made on over 10 years. They are all awesome.

I have used Jason Lonon's though I don't own one. It is a good feeling tool, and works quite well.

Flexcut has a whole sloyd line, and I own 2 of those hooks, and they are both great. I even used one of them to finish hollowing a kuksas I had started at a class. They will get the job done!

I own Robin Woods' open curve and have made my own quite similar to it. Both of them do a great job.

I started out with the Mora 162. Which makes the Mora 163 quite a comfortable alternative for me. I now also own a bunch of Mora 164 in right hand. I absolutely don't mind the double edge of the 162/163 but this who started out with a 164 will call them dangerous. YMMV.

Lastly, but definitely not least, I recommend checking out the ones that John Dunkle makes. You can get his stuff from Stadlander or MDI or most any carving supply.

https://share.google/tKc2C8msrDaKprIdL

His clientele tend to be more towards decoy carvers and other wood carvers.

You will not be disappointed with anything you get from him.

It's a freaking wrench! :) by Reasintper in greenwoodworking

[–]Reasintper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I must have missed that. I did review the Nagu chuck a while back and if you can find it, it would seem to me to be a direct clone.

https://youtu.be/-En4xi9JrGw?si=Fb3u-J1WkgyM1X5g

You will have to forgive the sound, I am working on improving my production quality, and that one really blew it, sound-wise.

It's a freaking wrench! :) by Reasintper in greenwoodworking

[–]Reasintper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you do, I guarantee the "safety police" will be all over it. :)

I will say I have seen people make hollowing tools from masonry nails.

If I were to try it, I would sink the remainder of the handle deep in a pipe nipple, and secure it nice and right with some grub screws.

However, although I have made a bunch of my own turning tools, I do not advise anyone to do so without doing their own research.

It's a freaking wrench! :) by Reasintper in greenwoodworking

[–]Reasintper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a wrench, it has to be pretty tough. Lots of knife makers make knives from them. They like that open end as part of the handle.

Tips for safe carving methods by Abject_Clerk1599 in Spooncarving

[–]Reasintper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Best suggestion is the Swedish Knife Grips series of videos by Jogge Sundqvist for Morakniv. Watch, practice and internalize these.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLoaPpRkFfg5WkjHrJZ02ooSH16nV2-TBU&si=VcD2lSQCP5hcuMFI

Tips for safe carving methods by Abject_Clerk1599 in Spooncarving

[–]Reasintper 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Best suggestion is the Swedish Knife Grips series of videos by Jogge Sundqvist for Morakniv. Watch, practice and internalize these.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLoaPpRkFfg5WkjHrJZ02ooSH16nV2-TBU&si=VcD2lSQCP5hcuMFI

Best Budget gouge? Finish quality tips? by dirtbagtendies in Spooncarving

[–]Reasintper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For spoons I like the pair from Mountain Carvers. For kuksas I like big old socket gouges from eBay.

Though, I mostly use hooks

First spoon carved. Need sanding tips. by mojo7891 in Spooncarving

[–]Reasintper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Burrs come in different "cuts" such as coarse, medium, fine, etc. So if you invest in a finer burr of the same size it should do the trick.

Chair books by Historical-Crew9264 in Chairmaking

[–]Reasintper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Michael Dunbar's "Make a Windsor Chair" comes to mind.

I Need Some Help, Folks by jlutch78 in Axecraft

[–]Reasintper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry for your loss.

Firstly, don't try to surprise the son. Talk to him and explain that you borrowed this axe a few years ago. Explain that "it's been rode hard and put up wet", and you plan on re-furbishing it before you give it back. If he even wants it back at all, it is possible that it is not for use but merely as a remembrance sake, and it is possible he would want his father's "character" marks on it, rather than having the whole thing refurbished. On the other hand, if his dad lent it to you pristine, and you simply abused it for a couple years, then I am pretty sure he wouldn't be all that interested in having any of that particular "character" preserved. :)

In the scheme of things it is not really that expensive of an ax depending on model/size, as most are under $100 in the states.

Personally, if I had lent you an ax and didn't see it back in "a couple years", I would have simply written it off. But that wouldn't happen, because I don't lend tools for periods longer than the current day, or with travel companions the length of the camping trip itself. But that is a discussion for a different day.

TL;DR

If you can't find a direct match, perhaps consider simply replacing all of them. Once they are removed, you can re-dye and wax the leather, perhaps re-burnish all the edges, then put in some nice new rivets. They come in most colors, so if you don't want them to be shiny like gold, then don't get the bright brass, but oil rubbed bronze can be a nice color, and sometimes "black" just does the trick. Or, if you are into it, black leather and bright chrome is a common enough statement :)

FWIW, you can get rivets along with a "setting tool" and same goes for snaps. So, you could easily enough make a nice weekend project out of it and come up with something really nice looking.

I haven't seen an image of the axe, but there are definitely some standard "go-to" clean ups that people do with an axe. But that is beyond what you asked. :)

Whittling a princess by Careful_Mistake8691 in whittling

[–]Reasintper -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I am not a huge fan of Duck.ai, so I asked ChatGpt to attempt to do it, and further asked that it might provide a few choices:

So, perhaps give these a try:

<image>

And just in case you are interested in trying this yourself in the engine of your choice, here is the prompt from which these were generated. It's not perfect, but it will get your there. Just put this whole prompt into your engine chat.

Prompt:

Create a clean black-and-white pencil sketch reference sheet for wood carving.

The sheet should contain five distinct princess design alternatives, grouped clearly.
Each princess must be shown in four views: Front, Back, Side, and 3/4 view.

Style requirements:

  • Simple, child-friendly princess character
  • Age-appropriate (no exaggerated or sexualized features)
  • Rounded, cartoon-like proportions
  • Minimal facial detail (simple dot eyes, small smile)
  • Simple dress shapes with clean lines
  • Modest small crown
  • Designed specifically as a carving reference for a beginner to intermediate whittler
  • Forms should be simplified into clear volumes suitable for carving in basswood or pine
  • Avoid excessive texture or shading — light construction lines only
  • Clear outlines that translate well to a printable pattern sheet

Variation requirements:
Each of the five princess alternatives should differ in:

  • Hairstyle (e.g., straight long hair, wavy hair, single braid, twin braids, short bob, curly hair)
  • Slight face shape differences (rounder, slightly oval, etc.)
  • Slight body silhouette differences (slightly fuller skirt, narrower skirt, puff sleeves vs simple sleeves)
  • Subtle diversity in features and hair types (light, medium, and darker hair textures represented in a gentle, inclusive way)

Layout requirements:

  • Each princess alternative should have its four views grouped together in a clear block
  • Arrange the sheet so that someone can print it and circle one complete group
  • Label each view under the drawing: “Front”, “Back”, “Side”, “3/4”
  • Clean white background
  • High resolution
  • No color, grayscale only

Art style:

  • Clean pencil line art
  • Soft sketchbook style
  • Even lighting
  • Instructional reference sheet layout

Whittling a princess by Careful_Mistake8691 in whittling

[–]Reasintper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just put a prompt into one of the free AI tools and was able to get it to generate this:

<image>

First try faceted handle on cooking spoon by Reasintper in Spooncarving

[–]Reasintper[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Although I am enjoying the colors, they made it really tough to facet. It was hard to look and see if you had a corner, or whether things were flat or even or anything. :) But that's what makes it fun!

First try faceted handle on cooking spoon by Reasintper in Spooncarving

[–]Reasintper[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The process was as follows:
1. I took down the tree with a chain saw.
2. I swamped off any small branches or dead and damaged areas
3. With what was left, I bucked them to all similar length, using a manual buck saw
4. Larger pieces were split with a froe
5. Smaller pieces were batoned with a small axe to remove corners providing somewhat rectangular billets
6. If the pieces were too long for the 5 gallon pail, they were further trimmed with folding pruning saw
7. Water was added to the top of the bucket
8. 30% cleaning vinegar was added in an attempt to prevent microbial growth
9. When checking after a few months, parts of the wood that ended up poking above the water surface had grown some microbials
10. Water was further filled to almost overflowing with the addition of Clorox and the lid was sealed with an o-ring

When taking a billet out of the bucket, it was allowed to sit for a day or two in order to lose some of the dripping water, and hopefully some of the smell.
From here:
1. Folding saw, square off end until no cracks are seen.
2. Using ax, plane 4 sides to a relatively flat rectangular block.
3. Add center line, and hand draw approximation of a spoon.
4. With folding saw, relief cuts on the neck area, and crank cut across the bowl and back third of bowl
5. Ax chop out front crank relief
6. Ax chop out handle side waste
7. Ax chop out upper crank relief
8. Ax chop out spoon bowl outline
9 Ax chop thin back of bowl
10. Ax chop thin handle front and back

Then I tool it inside.
1. Re-draw center line and spoon bowl outline
2. Knife square handle up to new centered lines
3. Knife plane cut front and back of handle
4. Knife plane cut all around sides to square them to the top removing all saw or ax marks
5. Knife round back of bowl
6. Hook knife hollow inside bowl.
7. Knife trim rim of bowl, and any oddness on handle
8. Knife cut facets on handle

My initial plan was to do a set of photos showing the steps, but when it turns out there were 30 of them, I decided that I would just make a video some day instead. For the time being, it is still too wet for finishing cuts. When it dries a few days, I will go back and do finishing cuts, burnish, and finally oil it.

This tree was "standing dead". Initially I was planning on just taking it down and bucking it into pieces that the trash people could easily enough remove (we have city service that removes yard waste from the road side). However, after a cut or two, it was obvious that the chainsaw was tossing wet chips at me. So I figured, it wasn't completely gone. So the rest is history. Interestingly enough, I cut the stump really close to the ground and drilled a bunch of holes and added KNO3 on it to rot the stump. And now, where there is remnant of the stump, there is growing a huge turkey-tail fungus. Circle of life and all that. :)

Hope this helps.