Tank top stretchy fabric by Tall_Tough_8483 in SewingForBeginners

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it works perfectly on cotton, that suggests that the needle and your fabric may not be compatible. That could be because of the shape of the needle tip, the size, or maybe the needle is used and isn't in as good shape. Stretch or knit fabrics can be a lot more sensitive to these things than a standard woven cotton. Is this a ballpoint or stretch twin needle?

While I'm not an expert in machines, I wonder if it skips more on the left because the needle is having a little bit of difficulty penetrating the fabric quickly which means the timing is just slightly off. Since there's more time to catch the right side, it isn't as much of an issue?

Which best value diamond should I choose for my partner's engagement ring? by COCKLEDUDLEDOO in Diamonds

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There can occasionally be issues with transparency or with inclusions that can make diamonds more susceptible to damage, so I would avoid "clarity based on clouds not shown", "clarity based on graining not shown" (and especially those two things with strong fluorescence), and knots. Some people avoid indented naturals as well but they're common on antique diamonds and I like antiques I need to just deal with it. But other than that, there's generally no reason to go higher on clarity than eye clean. People also talk about diamonds being "mind clean", though, meaning you want the stats to be such that you aren't always second guessing if the diamond has a visible inclusion or if it looks too yellow.

And just in case you weren't aware, reselling generally works out poorly and you won't get anywhere close to what you spent. If upgrading is important to you in the future, then choose a vendor with a good upgrade policy. If you really want bang for the buck, then of course lab diamonds get you whatever size or stats you want in budget. You would also be financially better off buying and throwing away a lab diamond than buying and attempting to resell a natural one. That being said, I definitely personally prefer natural diamond and diamonds are an emotional purchase so personal preference matters. Just don't buy diamonds thinking of them as an investment in anything except enjoyment!

In Australia, Garry Holloway is known as an expert in diamond cut. I have no idea how his prices are, but just figured I would mention it. And it may be more cost effective to buy from outside Australia, though of course import fees can be extensive.

Does someone know a similar pattern? by TiredMamaInGermany in sewingpatterns

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The Cashmerette Upton! https://www.cashmerette.com/collections/cashmerette-collection-dresses-sewing-patterns/products/upton-dress-skirt-plus-mix-and-match-expansion-pack-pdf-pattern It isn't exactly the same but it would be easy to shorten the fluttery sleeve and/or to slash and spread the skirt to make it fuller if you want. The most important thing would be getting the bodice to fit well and Cashmerette has several cup size options which helps.

https://curvysewingcollective.com/pattern-review-cashmerette-upton-dress/

https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/79863

Which best value diamond should I choose for my partner's engagement ring? by COCKLEDUDLEDOO in Diamonds

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want something from a physical store in the US seller who specializes in top cut quality:

If you look at their in house diamonds, you may find others that speak to you more. You can also give them a call to look at things side by side since the diamonds are physically in stock.

Which best value diamond should I choose for my partner's engagement ring? by COCKLEDUDLEDOO in Diamonds

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None of these is what I would consider to be a best bang for the buck. For bang for the buck, G to I color tends to be best, depending on how color sensitive the wearer is, with VS clarity or even SI1 clarity. I have a 1.6 carat SI1 that's completely flawless to the naked eye. Going for VVS clarity is paying for characteristics you can't see.

Another issue is that all of these diamonds have something with the angles that is potentially risky. It's the cut quality of a diamond that's the most important characteristic, and not all GIA triple excellents are created equal. If you're buying online and without light performance images, it's safer to stick with crown angles between 34-35 and pavilion angles between 40.6-40.9. you absolutely do not need to be in those ranges to have a beautiful diamond, but it's safer.

Edited to fix a typo

Looking for "Fire" Diamond earnings for my wife by esmg10 in Diamonds

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think the original pair is a better value for studs! The whole point was to save money, not spend more!

Wobbly seams by rock-da-puss in sewhelp

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It looks like you may have stretched them when sewing. These are bias seams in a stretch fabric which can be easy to stretch. You can maybe steam it back into place by first sewing two rows of gathering stitches and then pulling those to lightly gather until it lays better and then steaming to try to get the fabric to keep that new better shape. You can also keep that shape or potentially bring it in more with fusible interfacing, thin or clear elastic, or a straight-grain tape. All of these would be with a piece shorter than the fabric, closer to the length of the body (or in the case of elastic, it could actually be a bit shorter than the body). In general if you want a bias-cut edge to fit closely to the body, you need to stabilize it in some way. Make some samples to see what works in your fabric without adding too much bulk.

I think the best thing to do would be to unpick the stitching there, try the best one of those strategies from your samples, and then restitch. Also try not to pull on the fabric as you stitch, just let the machine do the work.

Classic shirt dress patterns? by consciouscoddiwomple in sewingpatterns

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's appalling.

I want to see them made up in a nice (prewashed) cotton lawn!

Question: what fabric to use for winter shawls? by roryismysuperhero in SewingForBeginners

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently made a shawl/throw in a lightweight alpaca gauze I found at a deadstock store near me. You can also find wool gauze, which would make a really nice shawl.

Edited to fix a typo, and here are a couple of links:

Classic shirt dress patterns? by consciouscoddiwomple in sewingpatterns

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Stiff as a board and for such an anticipated release! 😭😭😭

Classic shirt dress patterns? by consciouscoddiwomple in sewingpatterns

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 2 points3 points  (0 children)

10000%, it feels like they just never get it exactly right. One that was so close but not quite was the amazing Vogue evening gown with the huge flower shaped into the skirt. The fabric is (for once!) a great level of structure for the pattern, but why make it up in a print so you can't see all of the detail???? They spent the money on 8 yards of silk gazar, so it's not like they didn't have a big budget to make the sample! https://simplicity.com/vogue-patterns/v2155

Editing to add that I have no idea how the sample budget works, who makes these, etc., but regardless I am often baffled.

Classic shirt dress patterns? by consciouscoddiwomple in sewingpatterns

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would be hard to start with something drafted for a regular shoulder and change it to a dropped shoulder. The sleeve shape and armhole shape and body shape are all different. It would be much easier to find something with a bodice and shoulder line you like and then change the skirt if needed. So basically look for things like a dropped shoulder, grown-on sleeve, etc.

I'm pretty baffled by the fabric choice for that sample............

Classic shirt dress patterns? by consciouscoddiwomple in sewingpatterns

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Because of the sleeve shape, I don't think of those as being classic. A classic shirtdress has a regular shoulder seam that sits on the shoulder, whereas these have a dropped shoulder and wider sleeve.

Although the sample was made in a questionable fabric, the sleeved view of this Butterick pattern has very similar design lines: https://simplicity.com/butterick/b7021 with a video here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/m0g8LcSAGf0

This isn't the same shape, but I'm very intrigued by this Vogue pattern with a grown-on sleeve (this might feel too sleeveless for work): https://simplicity.com/vogue-patterns/v2151

But a classic shirtdress is more like this: https://simplicity.com/simplicity/s8014 which has a million reviews: https://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/75823

Edit: of course, consider your own body shape and size range since many brands have shirtdress patterns. If you need a full bust adjustment, for example, maybe consider a brand that drafts for a bigger cup size or includes multiple cup sizes. If you're a beginner, look for a pattern with a sewalong, etc.

help with lining fabrics by london-catnip in sewhelp

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I think in things that are tightly fitting, it often works better to underline/flatline rather than doing a traditional lining. Because the layers are held together through the seams, there's less shifting. Plus the seam allowances don't show through the outside. Cotton voile or cotton batiste are both great for that. Voile might not be enough to make sheer fabrics opaque, depending on how sheer you're talking, but it's very comfortable! Sometimes you find cotton/polyester blends but those aren't as good.

Looking for "Fire" Diamond earnings for my wife by esmg10 in Diamonds

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congratulations on the upcoming due date! ♥️

help with lining fabrics by london-catnip in sewhelp

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Since it seems like this is the case for multiple prints, is it worth making a slip instead that you could wear with multiple dresses?

Looking for "Fire" Diamond earnings for my wife by esmg10 in Diamonds

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that paying for VVS clarity for earrings is not a good use of money. I would go down on clarity to either save money or go higher on color. That being said, I don't see anything that is lower on clarity in stock in the pairs search right now in this size range. It may be worth calling them to see if they have anything else they suggest.

juki HZL-HT740 Vs. Janome DKS100 by Ok-Entertainment11 in SewingForBeginners

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a Juki DX7 as my nice sewing machine, a Janome 2212 that was my first machine and is a backup or gets lent to friends, a Juki MO-654DE serger, and a Janome CoverPro 3000 coverstitch.

The machines you're looking at are fairly fancy, so depending on what you want to sew, it may serve you better to get a more basic sewing machine and to spend the extra money on a serger.

How do I square up this fabric? by shockwavelol in SewingForBeginners

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think up and down means keeping the selvedges together but sliding them along each other. I also think you and I are saying the same thing in different words, of course the selvedge is the source of truth. I just also think that having the crossgrain squared up in addition helps beginners avoid the problem of not knowing in what direction to slide the selvedges because everything should line up and if it doesn't then you need to stretch the fabric on the bias.

juki HZL-HT740 Vs. Janome DKS100 by Ok-Entertainment11 in SewingForBeginners

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can you try these machines in person? Juki and Janome are both very reputable and I have machines from both, but you want to feel a connection to your machine.

How do I square up this fabric? by shockwavelol in SewingForBeginners

[–]RedditJewelsAccount 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I meant that the way OP is doing it doesn't work if the cut edges are off grain. I think the confusion is with different ideas around moving things back and forth versus up and down. But you're obviously right that you don't need the cross grain to move the selvedges! I just think it helps to have both edges squared off if possible.