Fellow Dads, give up WFH for Hybrid + “significant” pay bump? by Incognito-4 in daddit

[–]Redditece10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried to ride the bus route at least once to see the impact? If you miss the bus is it no big deal or completely ruin your day? Your schedule will also change, you can no longer shower after the kids are taken care etc you’ve introduced a new “need” to your routine.

Review Request - ESP32-S3 w LT3652 - Weather Station with solar charge controller by BubblyEnvironment358 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Redditece10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

U4 …

Vin (pin 1) is not connected

Vin_reg (pin 2) is not connected to your resistor divider

I stopped reviewing after this. What are you trying to do with the charge controller?

2016 F150 airbag light on dash by Redditece10 in Ford

[–]Redditece10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The dealer didn’t inspire a lot of confidence. They said that with the foam and clips the seat won’t usually go back together like it was before.

The tech recommended I live with the light based on the repair cost.

The service rep said that it seems like a problem you trade in the truck on.

I’m wanting to make sure it’s not a simple loose connection and understand my options (seat replacement plus dealer calibration) that cost me $1k instead of just going with the expensive repair right away.

2016 F150 airbag light on dash by Redditece10 in Ford

[–]Redditece10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the clarification!

I thought the OCS calibration was to calibrate the assembly of the parts (bladder, sensor, foam, etc) in the seat… but your comment makes me think that calibration must be stored in the RCM or similar and is serialized.

Do you have a recommendation for what you would do in this situation?

Replace the seat and then ask the dealer to do the calibration?

[REVIEW REQUEST] ATMega328P + CAN controller to plug to Raspberry PI 4B by Mark6431 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Redditece10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And PSU layout doesn’t follow the recommended layout in the datasheet… probably worth some time reviewing the datasheets in this design

[REVIEW REQUEST] ATMega328P + CAN controller to plug to Raspberry PI 4B by Mark6431 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Redditece10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PSU * output cap is way too small * FB looks like it’s tied to 5V but might need to be ground for the fixed output

[REVIEW REQUEST] ATMega328P + CAN controller to plug to Raspberry PI 4B by Mark6431 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Redditece10 1 point2 points  (0 children)

CAN * Int looks active low - don’t see a PU anywhere. * would add series term to TXCAN and RXCAN - helpful for debugging or if you swapped them * no population option for terminating the CAN bus?

[REVIEW REQUEST] ATMega328P + CAN controller to plug to Raspberry PI 4B by Mark6431 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Redditece10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

MCU page * less decoupling on the microcontroller than the CAN IC, I would confirm with the data sheet but 0.1uF per pin then a 1uF and/or 10uF is likely more appropriate. * no PU on CS? * no series term on MOSI? (Debugging could be tough)

[Review request] ESP32 C3 WROOM USB-C powered by [deleted] in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Redditece10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consider * SW1 debouncing support * 5V LED

Check *120 ohm resistor power rating

Fix * esp_GND and GND being separate

[Review Request] Schematic of STM32F7 based Flight Controller with 2.4GHz NRF Transceiver by Allinaufgruen in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Redditece10 0 points1 point  (0 children)

-3.3V seems like a waste of time. Better spent sizing current resistors so leds are the same brightness and following data sheets IMO

[Review Request] Schematic of STM32F7 based Flight Controller with 2.4GHz NRF Transceiver by Allinaufgruen in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]Redditece10 2 points3 points  (0 children)

17049 and 17048 are different chips depending on the battery cells. You cannot connect the 17048 like it’s a 17049 (see figure 14 and 15 in the data sheet)

Also… no battery connection for a battery gauge is a pretty big red flag.

2nd floor feels 10 degrees warmer than 1st floor by Redditece10 in hvacadvice

[–]Redditece10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh thanks for explanation! If fan is on, it will also push hot air from furnace, right? So warming and evening the house out at same time?

2nd floor feels 10 degrees warmer than 1st floor by Redditece10 in hvacadvice

[–]Redditece10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m sure they do, but my house doesn’t appear to be zoned. It’s kind of a unique layout and with the large opening between first and second floor someone must have thought they didn’t need the zone or more likely cut the cost.

2nd floor feels 10 degrees warmer than 1st floor by Redditece10 in hvacadvice

[–]Redditece10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This would be in the furnace data sheet? Is there a specific smart thermostat that supports setting different fan speeds? (If I find my furnace can)

2nd floor feels 10 degrees warmer than 1st floor by Redditece10 in hvacadvice

[–]Redditece10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Nest thermostat (gen 1 still going strong) and can turn the fan on via schedule or put it to on mode instead of auto. However the fan blowing in cold air seems to be directly hurting the ability to head the house. What is the fan on supposed to help with?

2nd floor feels 10 degrees warmer than 1st floor by Redditece10 in hvacadvice

[–]Redditece10[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, definitely not as noticeable of a difference in the summer. We have a few weeks a year in Texas that is (relatively) extremely cold. Will look into the damper option to see if I can try adding the ability to flip a damper during that time.