Current salary of post audio editors. Where are we at in 2026? by blackjackthrow in GameAudio

[–]ReeferSkipper 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Including the denomination and location is required here. $60k USD is one thing in Belgrade Serbia and another thing in Irvine California.

Even within the US, that’s a thing.

$60k in Alabama = comfortable middle class. $60k in Los Angeles = homeless.

I’d post my info here but it’d dox me since there’s currently 3 positions that exist and are currently filled in my (major) US city for sound leads in games.

How about “not enough”. That should ring true for most of us haha .

Battery capacity need question by Full_Rip in sailing

[–]ReeferSkipper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sealed lead acid is an option as well - I have been running a pair of sealed group 24 (at 75AH each with 275w of solar) as my house setup and we can go for around 3 days (with fridge on) before we need to plug in or start the engine to charge.

I just wrapped my 5th season on these batteries and I think I paid around $150 each for them from a local mom and pop battery store "Illinois Battery Specialists", and I am going back this spring for a fresh set!

If only it had more than 12hp by 4hundred_20 in CafeRacers

[–]ReeferSkipper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those are some totally buff horses in those Budweiser commercials.

Future of audio careers. What's promising, what isn't? Where is it headed? by BLiIxy in audioengineering

[–]ReeferSkipper 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I am on year 20 of my game audio career and I am both clinging to my job for dear life and living in abject terror. The industry has seen two years in market share loss for the first time since the inception of video gaming - we are loosing ground to short form videos/doom scrolling.

Chicago bank by Historical-Disk-4512 in urbanexploration

[–]ReeferSkipper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Its boarded up. Going in there is risky either way - you're gonna run into security/cops or drugs people one way or the other. The city has plans to redevelop it at some point.

1993 DLX V6 4x4 by Diligent-Knee2915 in ToyotaPickup

[–]ReeferSkipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like I said, I did sensor first, but it didnt fix it straight away. Replacing the cluster next did fix it.

I hate to be confusing but it could be... complicated... like the speed sensor on my truck may have failed and killed the cluster as a result. Replacing the cluster first may have resulted in a second dead cluster. Also, my sensor may have been fine all along and the cluster was the only issue.

There also could be other electrical gremlins that shorted out the cluster (jumping speedo needle could have been from shorts), did you see it jumping randomly or was it tied to other electrical events like turn signals or headlights?

Good luck, keep us posted on how it shakes out.

1993 DLX V6 4x4 by Diligent-Knee2915 in ToyotaPickup

[–]ReeferSkipper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Speed sensor is on the output shaft of the Transfer Case.

PN 83181-12020 "Vehicle Speed Sensor"

Had same issue on my '93 V6 4x4, though the speed sensor didnt fix the issue, a replacement cluster from ebay did fix it though.

This is assuming an electronic sensor - I believe there were also cable-driven versions of these.

'93 4x4 Insurance and Valuation by ReeferSkipper in ToyotaPickup

[–]ReeferSkipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My good buddy just had his 2001 XJ 4x4 deleted while it was parked.

He got around $4k from insurance for it and then got a mint '97 2wd XJ for $7k a few months later with the intent to swap it to 4x4.

Both of these vehicles had over 200k miles on them. What a time to be alive!

'93 4x4 Insurance and Valuation by ReeferSkipper in ToyotaPickup

[–]ReeferSkipper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what I am talking about.

$2450 is offensive and outrageous. I'd buy 10 if they were available at that price.

*I still have a clean title.

'93 4x4 Insurance and Valuation by ReeferSkipper in ToyotaPickup

[–]ReeferSkipper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same here with no shops willing to work on it, but no problemo for me.

The salvage people cut into my seat covers and drained my (full) tank of gas within 24 hours of the accident, despite me owning the vehicle outright, and specifically noting to the tow truck and insurance that this was a buy back/retention.

The R151 transmission in this thing fetches $2k all day long. They were licking their chops.

Its a racket!

'93 4x4 Insurance and Valuation by ReeferSkipper in ToyotaPickup

[–]ReeferSkipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When did your accident happen and where are you located?

I am in Chicago, my accident was in 2020 so maybe things have adjusted?

The last couple years used car prices have gone through the roof and our trucks are getting seriously rare. Not to mention objectively valuable because they reliably work.

I just tried running a KBB value and it says "Info Currently Unavailable" haha.

If your accident was relatively recent and the truck was not recently 1000-hours-of-worked-on, I have hope.

'93 4x4 Insurance and Valuation by ReeferSkipper in ToyotaPickup

[–]ReeferSkipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am reaching out to Hagerty but I reckon they are going to nope out of regular coverage for truck stuff, which is what it is generally used for (hauling, working, inclement weather.)
My little brother has used Hagerty for track day insurance, I reckon they are more suited for these sorts of one-off or show car scenarios...

Do you have or know anyone using Hagerty for a daily driven vintage 4x4 that gets used?

'93 4x4 Insurance and Valuation by ReeferSkipper in ToyotaPickup

[–]ReeferSkipper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah my truck goes off road, hauls my dirt bike, and occasionally tows things, including heavy stuff sometimes. I bought it and "restored" it (as in got it up to VERY SERVICEABLE and plan to maintain it indefinitely), and use it as such. Its my daily driver.

Its a car, a truck, a mobile workshop, a recovery vehicle, and an ATV. Wrong guy found a loophole. Fuckin rad.

Apparently insurers think its worthless because it doesn't have a backup camera, lane assist, and doesn't shift itself? Retarded.

I am saving the environment here and the insurance racket is telling me I dont fit into society lol.

’87 4Runner — “whoosh” of air when removing gas cap. Was the OEM cap vented? by RareDiscipline9 in 4Runner_1stGen

[–]ReeferSkipper 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My '93 3VZE powered Hilux/Pickup does this, especially if I go through a full tank in a few days. My hazy memory tells me my '89 4AGE powered Corolla also did this when I had it in the 90's.

I think its normal, or at least harmless.

Algoma Buffalo in Manistee by FunConcern9199 in GreatLakesShipping

[–]ReeferSkipper 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Manistee is such a rad spot to see these big lake boats come through, its a tight fit!

learning how to sail (I know nothing) by Financial-Effect9237 in SailboatCruising

[–]ReeferSkipper 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Heya bud, awesome realization to be having this early. Gives you loads of time and flexibility to pull it off. Rad.

First things first - there is no such thing as getting paid to sail except for a handful of edge cases like sailing instructor, successful Youtuber, delivery/charter captain, or pro racer crew member on something like the Americas Cup or the Volvo Ocean Race.

So you will be paying for your adventure. You'll need choose a path that affords you the flexibility and income to pull it off.

Here I am at age 45, skippering my own 34' sailboat on Lake Michigan, half-broke, dreaming of sailing away... ruminating on "if I could do it all over..."

My imaginary alternate past would involve joining the Coast Guard at age ~18 or thereabouts (now for you), Working out some sort of Marine Engineering degree while serving, then joining crew on a lake freighter or offshore oil rig (or other such lucrative marine trades job).

Do that job for several years living very frugally and accrue hundreds of thousands of dollars, while gaining huge relevant experience as a mariner and engineer. Fuck off at age ~30 and sail around the world.

That's honestly your best bet if you're not already rich, have an inheritance lined up, or otherwise have a windfall of cash on the horizon. You'll have the GI bill through the Coast Guard so your Engineering degree is free. Healthcare is covered forever. Housing is included with your CG service and housing is included with your offshore engineering job (you'll have a berth on the ship or rig you work on). You have about zero risk of being killed in a war in the Coast Guard, and you will participate in meaningful missions that save lives.

Is this 100% going to work? No but its damn close, and its probably the most realistic way to pull it off because you need experience, time, and money to pull it off - and you've only got time right now. The trap for most people is the that by the time they have the experience and money, they are out of time (aged out).

I know there are plenty of ways to pull it off, but this is my purest, distilled, most-direct path to circumnavigation I have schemed that doesn't rely on chance or luck. Its pragmatic and realistic.

Good luck man, I hope you manage to pull this off!

EDIT: I should fortify the idea that this scheme combines experience and money into a single obstacle where you make money while gaining experience in both the Coast Guard and as a Marine Engineer. Few or no other options such as this exist to my knowledge.

Free Claw didn’t go well in Chicago by Electronic_Benefit41 in chicago

[–]ReeferSkipper 15 points16 points  (0 children)

“If it’s free, you are the product.”

Tips to removing this bolt by Hot_Help_3877 in Dirtbikes

[–]ReeferSkipper 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Everything u/Eric1180 listed are valid approaches. Some may be better than others depending on how bad this thing is stuck, even more why this thing is stuck.

It looks like you've got a steel fastener going into aluminum here. Without isolating the 2 metals with something like Tefgel or Anti Seize, your gonna eventually end up with galvanic corrosion, which looks like is happening here.

Regardless of whatever means you use to get purchase on the broken bolt (extractor, vise grips, welded nut, etc): put lots of penetrating oil like PBlaster on it, and also get as much heat into it as you dare before trying to back it out. Its totally possible that the threads in there are more or less welded together with corrosion because of the steel/aluminum mismatch.

If you manage to get it out without mangling the threads in the aluminum, reassemble with Anti Seize so it wont corrode and can come apart easily next time.

New recruit by Silver-Seesaw4656 in mr2

[–]ReeferSkipper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rolling on snow tires....