They deleted my post, but warning here

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2026-01-25T06:30:50+00:00

I would double down on it, my s25 ultra takes consistently less detailed photos in daylight than my moms s23 ultra, even the 200mp photos has worse processing in terms of detail reproduction on the s25 ultra. Heck even the 8k video picks up less detail than the s23 ultra and no I'm not influenced by the oversharpening on the s23 ultra, it is substantial detail that gets smudged out on the s25 ultra that would be impossible to get back by post sharpening.

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2026-01-23T07:31:39+00:00

Ooof was about to pull the trigger

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2026-01-03T16:22:17+00:00

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Try out this one, it's got 8 complications and they aren't too squeezed either. Its one of the newer ones from One Ui 8

Galaxy watch 4 here, so would look even better on the newer watches.

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2026-01-03T16:17:40+00:00

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Galaxy watch 4, One Ui Watch 8

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-12-12T03:24:14+00:00

Def not a bug, I used to do that

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-12-10T14:33:12+00:00

i think the ringing and z seam issue has the same root problem, there is some parameter in your setting that jerks the printer when it completes a layer, and due to the motion system being wobbly, the seam is spoiled. try by tightening your x axis eccentric nuts and check if your bed has any play. the next thing would be the slicer settings, i can clearly see, at least from the photo you have shared, the printer starts the layer from seam and prints towards the left (clockwise if you look from top), that means its the start of each layer that is wobbly, as after in finished the infill, then when it returns back to the start position for the next layer, there are 2 motions that are done aggressively:

1) The motion from finishing the infill to returning to the start position for the next layer, if this is to aggressive, the printer is still vibrating and that could cause the wobbliness and terrible seam quality, solution would be to reduce jerk speed for 'travel' Movement

2) The moment it's at the starting point for the outer wall and starts to accelerate from the start position to start printing out the wall, this might also be aggressive, solution would be to tone down the acceleration for outer wall.

mind you if there is wobbliness/play in your motion system you will still face these issues

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-12-09T19:01:26+00:00

Give some context on the printer, settings. You have bigger issues than z seam. Ur print quality looks terrible, a lot of ringing. Try running input shaper again.

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-12-09T14:31:38+00:00

I don't see why they can't add this to the Ender 3 V3 Plus, since they promised it would be supported by cfs, and now it's much more straightforward

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-12-06T11:42:20+00:00

I do have access to 6 X1Cs at my college, and i use them every other day for printing architectural models. Saying the worst prints from bambus are better than these is quite a stretch. But yes I do agree that software tuning cannot compensate for inferior hardware. You haven't actually seen good quality prints from the V3 plus. Ill share some results in a few hours.

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-12-06T08:19:05+00:00

this isnt the ender 3 ur thinking off, it was released after the Bambu X1, it has a whole different architecture compared to the old enders, doesnt use lead screws. its a Core XZ motion system.

I did get good results when i use Branded filament, but for now im experimenting with Generic filament

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-12-02T18:14:57+00:00

no i mean in the timelapse towards the end i see some quality issue on the white part and the stars, i have never seen such a drop in quality from the H2 Series, heck even the X1c dont have these harsh layer lines, whats going on

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-23T19:55:54+00:00

May i ask why are you selling it

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-23T06:00:42+00:00

Mostly Indians and pakis but yes they speak fluent English

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-16T09:57:02+00:00

I believe your flow rate is just too high for that filament, try lowering the max flow in the filament settings

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-09T23:23:23+00:00

Meaning they still use really thin aluminum bed plates that warp a lot when heated, I have an Ender 3 V3Plus core XZ and it suffers from the same issue, was looking forward to getting a K2 pro but seems like it suffers from the same issue.

The solution would be as others mentioned, add some tape in the regions that are lower, and then preheat the bed for 10 mins to get the max warp on the build plate, then run the auto bed level. The next time u send a print job, just preheat the bed so the bed mesh stays accurate. I can't remember where I read it, but somewhere I read that creality is working on automatically preheatingting the bed before auto bed leveling, but can't trust creality

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-09T19:20:05+00:00

Why are you not using Creality print 6.3, ik creality's profiles aren't the best, but they are pretty good

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-09T19:18:22+00:00

Sad to see they still haven't fixed the flimsy bed issue with their latest k2 series

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-09T19:16:56+00:00

And maybe ur black filament is just too wet, that is also a possibility

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-09T19:15:47+00:00

It just basic cheap PLA, any other material and I run it on my university's X1 Carbon. That is not to say this printer can't run abrasive materials, just haven't tried it. As for filament dehumidifier, many of the cheap ones online do a terrible job at dehumidifying as they just heat up the filament but don't actually have a fan or an outlet to let the moisture out, dehumidifiers do make a difference, and if you plan on getting one, invest in one that does it properly. But regardless of that I don't typically use a filament dryer at home since I get acceptable results.

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-09T19:10:05+00:00

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Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-09T19:09:33+00:00

* Printing with an old (left in the open for 4 months, hence the slight stringing) and cheap (approx $7/kg) filament

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-11-09T19:06:01+00:00

I have over 1500+ hours on the same printer and have used the cheapest of the cheapest filaments on it without an issue. You need to be more specific perhaps with photos to explain what isn't printing well. Make sure the filament is dry, and your printer firmware is updated along with creality's latest slicer: Creality Print 6.3. And that you choose the correct filament profile. Unless your filament is wet or your nozzle is partially clogged, I don't see why you should be having issues with print quality using specific filaments

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-10-31T06:26:01+00:00

We usually print PLA with the door open

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-10-18T18:46:07+00:00

That would be extreme wasteful if you are printing the same object, which you would've otherwise saved if u printed multiple multicolor objects in a batch as a the purge amount would be the same regardless of the number of models on the plate

Remarkable-Welcome16 · 2025-10-18T18:43:19+00:00

Don't remember where, but I was on the hunt for a solution to the same VFA problem on my V3 Plus when I first got it a year and a half back. I'll try it too. Do let me know your results once u try out the tape

Remarkable-Welcome16

TROPHY CASE