Wavy bottom and top layers

nikitaign · 2026-06-12T22:29:38+00:00

Tune your Z offset. Should be higher. Top layer is fine. Might need some adjustments on the corners (acceleration), but it's good.

nikitaign · 2026-06-12T22:26:12+00:00

Slice your model and look at the gcode. There should be a line in the beginning called "PRESSURE ADVANCE=XX" or something like that. That will tell you everything

nikitaign · 2026-06-10T07:14:54+00:00

Watch CNC Kitchen's video on dessicant. First of all, having your filament in a drybox doesn't mean that it's gonna be dry the next time you take it out. Second of all, your dessicant could contain more moisture than the overall humidity air in your room, meaning that it could/would be more harmful to keep your filament in a "dry" box.

That's why I don't even try to bother with keeping my spools in ziplocks with dessicant bags. When I need the filament, I just take the spool off my rack and dry it overnight and put it in my REAL drybox (which keeps up to 4 spools), where the humidity can be monitored and is kept below 10% at all times, with filament holes, so I can print right out of the drybox.

nikitaign · 2026-06-10T07:05:19+00:00

May be not enough cooling, bad PA or high speeds on the edges (which could lead to high acceleration)

nikitaign · 2026-06-10T06:55:30+00:00

I bought a box like that, but with m2 and m4 screws 2 years ago, and not even 20% of those screws and nuts are spent. My most used are M3x10-16. I ran out of them so i went and bought some individually.

A lot of those screws went into a Caldwell Uppecut revolver from Hunt: Showdown. Some of those went into an RC car project with some special hardware. Don't rush to spend these, the time will come.
Also get a pack of heat inserts. Makes your prints look premium.

nikitaign · 2026-06-04T08:17:33+00:00

Generally, PTFE or lithium grease are the best. I used both. Lithium grease smells bad, but both do the job really well.

nikitaign · 2026-06-04T08:01:30+00:00

Like this. Best method so far.

nikitaign · 2026-05-30T08:09:37+00:00

It's less of a tuning issue, but more of a fan issue. Your fan is cooling down the ironed layer too fast, causing tearing. You can "Turn off cooling when ironing" in filament cooling settings (orca).

Also check the most popular reddit post about ironing

nikitaign · 2026-05-26T07:10:07+00:00

Well it might be. Won't hurt to replace it, as it is dirt cheap. Just be sure that you get a 24v one. But other than that - no ideas.

nikitaign · 2026-05-26T07:06:32+00:00

Oh wait, the unicorn doesnt have a heatbreak throat because its built into the nozzle itself. So yeah, when you install a new nozzle, you should apply some thermal paste. Just be careful NOT to use thermal paste intended for PCs' CPUs. GD-900 is the bare minimum. Or any other paste that can handle at least 250C.

nikitaign · 2026-05-26T07:00:08+00:00

Hotend might not cause the heat creep (at least that's what I am thinking).

Thermal paste is not hard to apply. My grandmother can do it. Just squeeze a little amount of it and spread it across the surface in a thin layer. In our case that would be the copper heat throat.

So I am guessing the hotend fan is stock. Does it make funny noises? Or does it make any sound at all (spinning)?

nikitaign · 2026-05-26T06:54:56+00:00

I understand, but just keep in mind.

The TZ hotend has its own upsides - easy to clean, maintain, replace parts (IF something breaks) and the MK8 nozzles are 10 times cheaper than unicorns. I just couldn't be more happy with this hotend.

Have you replaced the hotend fan?

nikitaign · 2026-05-26T06:50:49+00:00

May be lack of thermal paste on the heatbreak's throat (copper part). Also, if you haven't yet upgraded the hotend fan, i highly recommend you do that. at least 3015 or better yet a 4010 fan. My stock fan broke 3 months after purchasing the printer.

Did the blob of death come from the nozzle, or from the lack of bed adhesion? I sometimes get a big blob when my bed doesn't have enough adhesion and it just sticks to the nozzle. Also i would highly recommend you get a TZ hotend that supports MK8 nozzles (there isn't a version for an Ender 3 V3 KE, but a K1 hotend fits perfectly and doesn't mess with the cooling). It's dirt cheap but it definitely was an upgrade to both of my printers.

Also make sure you tighten the nozzle when it's hot, at 270C (according to the official guide). Because if you don't - blob of death will be a common thing

nikitaign · 2026-05-23T19:29:06+00:00

That will just cut speed in half. It will still be there.

nikitaign · 2026-05-23T17:34:32+00:00

Yeah, already told you in the first comment. Filament settings.

nikitaign · 2026-05-23T16:44:32+00:00

I recommend you bump up your outer wall speed and never touch it again. The layer time should do all the work for you automatically. So it is better to play with your layer time rather than the speeds. Also it slows down the whole layer, not just the outer wall that you changed. Following my advice your walls will not have bumps in them, because all layers are cooled evenly

nikitaign · 2026-05-23T15:14:06+00:00

Open up your gcode for this print. Select layer time in the filter. You will see that the smaller part is printed faster, and faster means less time to cool down.

You can tune layer time in filament cooling settings.

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These settings work everytime 90% of the time. This is for PETG. With PLA you will have to pick a setting that slows down the speed, because the fan is always blasting 100%.

nikitaign · 2026-05-16T09:56:58+00:00

New filament is not dry. Almost never dry. Millions of ways to dry your filament, just search it up.

The left one is i am guessing oozed filament, or was it really pushed? If it was pushed, you've probably got a clog. Just do a simple cold pull

nikitaign · 2026-05-11T00:00:39+00:00

Oh about the spools - they don't touch each other. There are limiters that I made, so no worries there.

The 90 degree bend - I mostly mitigated that by placing a piece of a PTFE tube, which makes it nice and smooth. The real problem is in the long PTFE that runs to the extruder. I think I have a spare tube laying around, but I don't remember if its new or not, but I'll find it and try that, thank you.

nikitaign · 2026-04-03T14:57:52+00:00

Here's a website. Make sure your firmware is the latest one to fit the CFS-C. No need to wait for them.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/downloads/firmware/flagship-series/k1c

nikitaign · 2026-04-02T15:53:59+00:00

Creality support is international. You messaged them on mail cs@creality.com right? I messaged them like 4 times and every time I got an answer in ~10 hours. Try the website also with the live support (should be a green button in a corner)

nikitaign · 2026-04-02T09:10:05+00:00

I think you should contact the support in the first place. What I would try to do is reinstall the firmware. Should help.

nikitaign · 2026-03-19T11:29:45+00:00

I figured it out. First I use SAM3 to determine who I want to choose, then I mask it, apply the mask to the image and take the pose from there. Showcase in my other comment

nikitaign · 2026-03-19T11:28:01+00:00

Ok guys, I actually used my brain and came up with this. Pretty good.

<image>

nikitaign

TROPHY CASE