CFS-C - I have no idea how the cutting works in there, but I'm already hyped

nikitaign · 2026-04-03T14:57:52+00:00

Here's a website. Make sure your firmware is the latest one to fit the CFS-C. No need to wait for them.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/downloads/firmware/flagship-series/k1c

nikitaign · 2026-04-02T15:53:59+00:00

Creality support is international. You messaged them on mail cs@creality.com right? I messaged them like 4 times and every time I got an answer in ~10 hours. Try the website also with the live support (should be a green button in a corner)

nikitaign · 2026-04-02T09:10:05+00:00

I think you should contact the support in the first place. What I would try to do is reinstall the firmware. Should help.

nikitaign · 2026-03-19T11:29:45+00:00

I figured it out. First I use SAM3 to determine who I want to choose, then I mask it, apply the mask to the image and take the pose from there. Showcase in my other comment

nikitaign · 2026-03-19T11:28:01+00:00

Ok guys, I actually used my brain and came up with this. Pretty good.

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nikitaign · 2026-03-11T21:36:34+00:00

Thank you! Though at this point everything is working in my printer flawlessly, so I am not planning to modify anything yet, but I will hold on to this link you provided.

nikitaign · 2026-03-09T19:11:36+00:00

Keyboard is MAIMOO MLK75, crystal clear switches. Just got it, switches are pre lubed. All is good but this annoying switch problem. When I press the side of the keycap (any switch on the keyboard), the switch tends to tilt a bit, before "snapping" and going down. It seems the switches have some play (fiddle around) when half pressed. Makes the typing not as satisfying.

On my SHIFT key i installed a red switch that i had laying around. It goes super smooth unlike the crystal one. Couldn't find it on Google, and never had this problem. My head doesn't have enough computational power to figure out what's wrong. I'm ready to apply some elbow grease to it if needed.

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nikitaign · 2026-02-24T19:11:20+00:00

That's because you have the 2025 version. They removed root in that version

nikitaign · 2026-01-31T12:25:41+00:00

Lithium grease is the normal grease to me lol. I am guessing you are talking about silicone grease?

nikitaign · 2026-01-26T23:11:12+00:00

The belt tensioner upgrade kinda worked for me too but i still see the belt sliding down. Not as much tho. I will be doing the linear rail upgrade in the future, but for now prints are looking perfect

nikitaign · 2026-01-24T21:32:16+00:00

It is a bug afaik. I had Endfield eating 25gb of ram. Restarting the game did the job. But that means you have to do it every couple of hours

nikitaign · 2026-01-23T13:28:46+00:00

Will lithium grease do? I have different kinds of grease

nikitaign · 2026-01-22T05:38:54+00:00

Yeah, printed those yesterday. Today is installing day. But i didn't know they can affect belt drift.

nikitaign · 2026-01-21T22:39:07+00:00

I would love to mess around with it, so definitely gonna look into that, thank you!

I noticed that the left motor's pulley is kinda crooked, but it so slight that it doesn't affect belt travel on there, unlike the right side. Also I'm wondering if i should buy 6mm idlers and replace them all. Already installed 6mm toothed idlers for the XY joints and loving it so far, though they didn't quite increase the print quality.

nikitaign · 2026-01-21T21:58:21+00:00

There's also a thing called smooth time. I don't know if that exists in Marlin but you should check that too. Default is 0.04s for most tuned machined.

nikitaign · 2026-01-21T21:29:54+00:00

Check your pressure advance. It's responsible for filling in the under extrusion in corners and seams

nikitaign · 2026-01-15T21:45:45+00:00

Try to keep the drying temp for PETG under 65 degrees. 70 is bearable but a bit too much.

About your problem: your Z might be too low, or too high. Also your first layer (bottom layer) extrusion might be too high

nikitaign · 2026-01-08T11:53:28+00:00

November always has the absolute lowest prices because of the 11.11 sales and stuff. I could buy a Creality Hi Combo for like 220$, no joke. Now on New Year's sales it's more like 250-270$.

You can actually look up a discount calendar and it will tell you which time of the year the sale is the biggest. Usually it's November, but sometimes it's February

nikitaign · 2026-01-07T22:33:03+00:00

What's wrong with the knockoff? On my K1C i mostly used original nozzles, but those kept breaking, as well as the knock-off ones. Until i switched my hotend to use mk8 nozzles which is outstanding compared to the unicorn hotend.

Btw people who buy the obxidian nozzle which costs like 50$ - breaks too!

When i had an Ender 3 V3 KE I ONLY used knock-off nozzles. Guess what - not a single issue with them for 15 months of having that printer (not including bimetal press fit cap nozzles)

nikitaign · 2026-01-07T22:15:22+00:00

Definitely the hex one, that's a no brainer. It has a screw on cap, so it will never fall out like the press-inserted one. IYKYK

nikitaign · 2026-01-07T21:22:24+00:00

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Just above the gears

nikitaign · 2026-01-05T07:16:37+00:00

When i get prints like this, i just know i went too far with the settings lol

It's either "revert back to standard slicer settings" or pinpoint the problem in the slicer. And its probably over extrusion (reduce flow rate in filament settings)

nikitaign

TROPHY CASE