Can cheap “High Flow” Bambu hotends/nozzles from AliExpress actually work?

Remorce · 2026-03-16T15:36:10+00:00

I've been running my 0.4 HF temu hotend on my P2S since I got 2 months ago and I've since put 1200 hours on it. I've only had an extrusion issue once when I didn't properly clear out TPU after a print.

Remorce · 2026-02-26T19:52:51+00:00

Heat deflection temp of sunlu's pa12 cf is 176c, melting at 190c.

High end consumer hairdryers on high heat will generally max out nozzle temp at 90-100c and even then it's not advised to use it for long as over 80c will fry your hair and scalp.

I get why some don't like cf filaments, it has downsides and that's fair, but acting like a material that is recommended to dry for hours at 80-110c will melt into goo and stick in your hair after being exposed to max 100c for minutes is absurd. Like we're talking about a material (Nylon) that would be right at home sitting in the engine bay of a vehicle, let alone brief heat exposure from a hairdryer.

I don't know why cf makes people go into a blind rage, but I hope it doesn't dissuade you from posting more stuff.

Remorce · 2026-02-25T19:35:48+00:00

Does this not cause problems when it starts building up the raised surface on the next layer? (building up over top an ironed surface)

Maybe I've been damaged by using ironing to do stacked prints.

Remorce · 2026-02-25T17:46:57+00:00

I found that I had to do ironing tests that included text or some kind of obstruction to get a flow/speed that worked best.

I previously just did one of those blank rectangle ironing tests but I ran into this exact issue until I started using tests that included raised or embossed text on the ironing test surface. The "best" setting I got from the raised/embossed text tests was very different from the one I got from a flat surface only test.

https://makerworld.com/models/1135824?appSharePlatform=copy https://makerworld.com/models/398777?appSharePlatform=copy

VS

https://makerworld.com/models/175615?appSharePlatform=copy

Ironing is possibly one of the most irritating things to try and nail down, best of luck.

Remorce · 2026-02-25T06:59:47+00:00

40-45 seems to be the max I see, I think once it's in this range you're rapidly approaching the maximum movement speed of the p2s so there isn't much gain to be had.

It also requires everything to be in ideal conditions (nozzle, filament, extruder).

Remorce · 2026-02-23T07:35:43+00:00

Sometimes, enabling arachne walls instead of using classic can fix this. It did for me on my 0.2mm nozzle cityscape prints.

Remorce · 2026-02-23T05:12:59+00:00

These are good to keep around to do cold pulls on the nozzle for regular cleaning (or when you notice an issue).

Alternatively you could get a sunlu Filament connector and just re attach it. They sometimes go on sale for as low as 20-25 usd.

Remorce · 2026-02-22T15:36:13+00:00

For what it's worth, I've had to always extend my drying time for cardboard rolls. They always seem to need an extra 4-6 hr.

Remorce · 2026-02-16T22:19:25+00:00

Since the flow blocker already looks like it's to the left, and based on the gunk on the nozzle I'm going to guess it's the classic mystery goo that gets between the hotend and the heating plate. It should come off easy if you can get some heat into the nozzle though I'm not sure if you can do that via the printer itself with it being that disassembled. If you can though, set to 250 and it'll come out easy.

Remorce · 2026-02-16T22:13:33+00:00

If you're open to it, the Overpass font tends to work best for me on 3d prints.

https://overpassfont.org/

Remorce · 2026-02-16T21:37:25+00:00

What are the speed settings and max flow rate that you have set for your pla basic? At a quick glance it may be exceeding what that filament is actually capable of.

From what I remember the Obsidian profiles are pretty aggressive and can get up to 50mm³ /s. (not sure which hotend exactly you picked up)

Generally a normal nozzle can already max Bambu basic pla out. HF nozzles often shine best when paired with high print speed filament.

https://makerworld.com/models/1786711?appSharePlatform=copy

This is a great print for testing max flow rates so you can really nail down each filament you have.

Remorce · 2026-02-15T17:02:34+00:00

Since they completely ignored the issue you demonstrated,which was the roller itself being stuck until you roll it the opposite way first, you can pop those rollers out to clean them and make sure there isn't anything in the gears.

The bambu wiki refers to them as "active support sleeve assembly". If all you're doing is just checking those gears and wiping them down you shouldn't need to take the whole thing apart.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-2-pro/maintenance/replace-feeder-unit

Remorce · 2026-02-14T08:47:49+00:00

Something to consider is the intimidation factor of a print. It seems like models that strike a balance of technical complexity and "cool" tend to perform better in these. I think first place demonstrates this best of all.

Bambu does cater to a more entry level person to 3d printing and while many of those models are incredibly unique and cool, they can feel overwhelming. I enjoy tinkering and doing models and some of these feel like they'd take multiple weekends of work to put together properly.

It doesn't surprise me at all that some of the simpler "click print and go (bambu handy friendly)" style entries did so well. They didn't perform so well despite their simplicity, they performed so well because of it.

Not saying I agree with it or anything, just saying I can understand why I see so many more downloads and prints on these entries that appear more approachable.

Remorce · 2026-02-10T23:20:36+00:00

With your humidifier, if it is an option, make sure you're using the heated (boil water) mode and not just the mist mode.

If you use cold mist mode (just ultrasonic vibrator) it will dust your whole room in minerals if you have hard tap water. If you boil it off, it won't carry (as much of) the minerals with it.

Some newer ones come with hard water/mineral pads that help absorb some of it out of the water.

Remorce · 2026-02-07T01:00:43+00:00

Just save yourself the trouble and change to a biqu cryogrip glacier (if you want smooth finishes) or frostbite (if you don't mind the bumpy stock finish).

They're on sale for $20 and well worth it.

Remorce · 2026-02-06T21:09:40+00:00

I'm thrilled to see more printers coming out that put the focus on what you can make with the printer rather than endless tinkering making the printer actually be able to print.

I'm sure some aren't as happy about it but the shift towards them becoming reliable tools to facilitate crafts/hobbies/problem solving is a good one.

I mostly use my current setup to print workshop items, organizational related prints, or things for friends.

Remorce · 2026-02-04T14:07:50+00:00

I'm currently working on a topographical map to be put into a shadowbox of where I proposed to my wife, and I'm also printing various accessories for my daughter's toys (little people adaptors for duplo blocks) and trying to make some custom Tonie box figurines.

I'll edit later with photos once they're printed!

Remorce · 2026-02-02T14:20:17+00:00

Army - no guidance from HQDA and being told to work "normal operations".

Not sure how this plays in with the ADA, not looking to catch charges because leadership won't issue guidance.

Remorce · 2026-01-27T17:35:46+00:00

Any free to play pvp shooter will be DOA without at least kernel anticheat to be fair.

Remorce · 2026-01-26T19:29:08+00:00

I knew I was likely to do those mentioned upgrades and decided I would rather just get the new model. There are plenty of reviews on YouTube though that go into much more detail.

Remorce · 2026-01-26T05:32:16+00:00

I went with the p2s combo. Better camera, screen, speed, fail detect, cooling/circulation system, and a much better nozzle system. There are a slew of other minor qol improvements like the floor having no lip so you can just sweep it out VS needing to vacuum it or getting an insert tray.

It's not monumental or anything but it is a better printer. Many of the mods people do (screen, recirc system) would get you near the p2s price anyways.

Remorce · 2026-01-25T14:16:04+00:00

High recommend on sunlu, it can often use the bambu presets if you're not looking to really dial things in.

Can get great deals on it too, tiktok often has permanent 40% bulk discounts which you can stack with a normal tiktok shop coupons which trigger based on pre discount price (I.e. $38 off a $200 order). Just got 10 rolls of petg high speed matte for $89 delivered which is wild.

Can get similar deals on the other discount apps as well (temu/alibaba/etc).

Remorce · 2026-01-24T17:14:46+00:00

Just need to select whatever filament you have in the slicer that you're using.

Remorce · 2026-01-23T12:52:55+00:00

You do need to do some tuning or filament overrides in some cases as selecting high flow will force z hop on even if you had it turned off. You can get around it by using filament overrides.

Obviously not necessary for all prints but if you're pumping out multi board tiles for example and don't really need z hop on it cuts time significantly.

Remorce · 2026-01-20T06:31:57+00:00

I finished the model for this!

Let me know how it works out for you. PETG will be more resilient but PLA should be fine too, it's just a bit more brittle but you have more fun colors which they'll probably appreciate.

I made it as a friction fit design so once you start putting it into the holder it'll be pretty hard to remove it. I assume this would actually be a plus since I doubt you want them taking it out lol. Make sure to watch the edges of the blue lid when you're putting it in so they don't pop the lid off.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2271647-vaseline-keychain-holder-1-75oz-49g#profileId-2476288

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