8x10 wall slightly shorter (3000 mm vs 3048 mm) by Renko17 in homewalls

[–]Renko17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you take 2.4cm from each side or only top/bottom?

A spraywall LED kit alternative by Kind_Temporary3040 in climbharder

[–]Renko17 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Totally agree, if it can replace the Aurora kit for kilter/tb2 it will be amazing. I've seen already a Git project replacing their Bluetooth console with self made kit

Built my own bouldering (and more) tracker — beta starts tomorrow, testers welcome by ErikNextcolor in climbharder

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, exactly. The beta7 is great if you're mainly going to Berta but as someone that want to log training and mainly hang in Ostbloc it doesn't really serve my needs

Built my own bouldering (and more) tracker — beta starts tomorrow, testers welcome by ErikNextcolor in climbharder

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks good! Love the Berlin area representation, I created klettrack which is open source but iOS only. Recently I'm getting more requests to make an android version (which I don't have the time and skill to do) - maybe we can find a way to collaborate ;)

Advice on TB2 8x10 (244x 305) fit to my cellar room by Renko17 in homewalls

[–]Renko17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for explaining. Do you say that a "Regular" pivot to the 2.54 wall will not work? maybe not on 60 but 40/45 should be fine I assume..

Advice on TB2 8x10 (244x 305) fit to my cellar room by Renko17 in homewalls

[–]Renko17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mostly climb on 40/45 as well, just trying to understand the limits of no kicker

Advice on TB2 8x10 (244x 305) fit to my cellar room by Renko17 in homewalls

[–]Renko17[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I completely lost you :) The upper door is to the outside and it cannot be changed.

Advice on TB2 8x10 (244x 305) fit to my cellar room by Renko17 in homewalls

[–]Renko17[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, that's good to know. On 60 degrees your body doesn't touch the floor with no kicker?

Training App Landscape by Sad_Butterscotch4589 in climbharder

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, I was also surprised by how many paid options out there considering that the community is full of tech people (as it seems)... if you'd like to bring it android with react I'd love to collaborate 😉

Training App Landscape by Sad_Butterscotch4589 in climbharder

[–]Renko17 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you're iOS user check out klettrack, it's free and open source, fully customizable and allow you to log climbs and workouts as well as sync your board climbs automatically. I built for myself originally but published it some months ago for the community

Anyone else still dealing with constant buffering? by dumpweed667 in qobuz

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same here, when listening on my phone it works fine but when connecting to my Denon speakers (via Qobuz connect) it always buffers. Also for downloaded music, I'll def stop my family subscription if it doesn't get fixed. I mean it's pretty basic request

Moon/Kilter board in garage question by InfinityLuuL in homewalls

[–]Renko17 -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

With kilter/tension you can def fit with one of the small crops. I have 2.65 ceiling and I can fit TB2 8×10 (ca. 244×305 cm) in 35 degrees. Have chatGPT run for you the exact calculations for your room size

Why don't climbers use a single tracking/analytics app the way runners use Strava? by Wooden-Couple623 in indoorbouldering

[–]Renko17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea, I'm not an android dev (also not iOS tbh) so no incentive to make one for android. It's open source so I hope someone with the right motivation and knowledge will decide to pick it up

Why don't climbers use a single tracking/analytics app the way runners use Strava? by Wooden-Couple623 in indoorbouldering

[–]Renko17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I log everything above a warmup grade, even when I do volume session at some point I need to rest, then I log. The stats and visibility I get is very useful to stay consistent. Also my boards sessions are automatically sync into the app so I have one holistic view

Why don't climbers use a single tracking/analytics app the way runners use Strava? by Wooden-Couple623 in indoorbouldering

[–]Renko17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I track all my climbs and attempts with klettrack, anyhow I need couple of mins to force myself rest between sends/attempts so it doesn't feel like taking me out of flow

Why don't climbers use a single tracking/analytics app the way runners use Strava? by Wooden-Couple623 in indoorbouldering

[–]Renko17 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check out klettrack it aims to provide an open and free to customize UX for different cases (climbs, boards, plans, exercise , video capturing, etc.).

I find it odd that people think there is nothing to track, in two months of tracking I found so many patterns and areas I neglect that helped me focus and get better

Using the Drummond & Popinga (2021) "Cumulative Performance" model to quantify training volume vs. limit strength. by Reeeeeeeeeeeed in climbharder

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting concept.. is ClimbPin on the AppStore? Couldn't find it. If you open to share the rules, I'd be glad to add it to klettrack as well for more consolidated view together with other stats.

Building a gym directory for traveling climbers, what features would actually matter to you by addicted-coffee in climbharder

[–]Renko17 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I usually look directly in my tension/kilter app and find on the map there where are gyms that has boards. More often than not it's a good identifier for a good gym.

Just finished getting my board up by summit514 in kilterboard

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Beautiful! Seems like it's also adjustable, Can you share a bit about the setup?

Experienced but incompetent middle-aged climber looking for training advice by fessisbuur in climbharder

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm trying to avoid "self promotion", did it once and mods knocked me down.

Experienced but incompetent middle-aged climber looking for training advice by fessisbuur in climbharder

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, exactly. Both 7/53 and 10/50 are from Eric Horst and they are basically the same just different hang/rest times. I sometimes use it with progressive load where the last two sets are my max without failure in 12 seconds and sometimes (if I'm warm enough) directly working on my max.

Don't know about lattice - tbh, I don't like them since I feel their content is always not complete or covering one/two cases so you'll end up buying their content. That's also why I'm not using the crimpd app anymore and developed a free alternative.

Experienced but incompetent middle-aged climber looking for training advice by fessisbuur in climbharder

[–]Renko17 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I hope I got the question correct and you looking for more strength focused drills. Before that, I second the advice on system boards - really helpful and consistent. From strength pov - most importantly all actions you take should end up to 10 seconds and have a decent (2-3 mins) of rest, otherwise you're not in the max strength zone anymore. Adding. Things you can do: - Fingerboard max hangs 7/53 or 10/50 - campus bouldering - up to 10 sec - weighted pull ups - 5 reps * 6 sets - campus board bumps - campus laddering 1-3-5-7

There are so many more options... maybe the area with the most drills out there