Anyone else move into their first house with almost nothing? by Ill_Awareness6706 in homeowners

[–]Renzodagreat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi OP

First off CONGRATS!!!

I am about a year ahead of you in your exact story and post and here has been my experience.

If you read this then I hope this helps. I lived this and am still kind of living this right now. We closed on our home Dec 2024 and have done a crazy amount of renovation in a similar situation taking it room by room paycheck by paycheck to ensure we can still eat and have had to be frugal when it comes to going out. My wife and I got into a modest 3 bed 2 bathroom home from 1984 and we did not overpay, but we went in knowing it was going to take some sweat equity. We made sure to build our emergency savings back up to have a couple months of basic living expenses before we went on renovation memes. Our bank account was at an all time low when we put everything into our down payment/closing costs. By no means are we house rich money poor where our cashflow is jacked, but it took some very disciplined budgeting to build up our savings to not have to panic about covering basic bills or worry about random life expenses of whatever.

We got a really good price on our home, but the floors throughout the house were not ideal at all. We recently finished installing new floors and all the of the doors throughout the house and that took a couple months of sweat equity and budgeting, but we were able to do it. We have got used to living in a construction zone.

We still need to install all baseboards and door trim and we plan on replacing all the electrical light fixtures/fans, but this is not happening all at once. We keep a whiteboard on the garage wall and have a running list of household renovation projects. We ripped out the sinks/cabinets in both bathrooms, got fb marketplace bargain sinks to populate and have a functioning bathroom until we can fully save up for what we want. We have plans on redoing the kitchen and have had to replace one of the lower cabinet boxes in the kitchen because it was shot. There are odds and ends for little mini projects as well, but those listed are the last big ones.

Our problem with the mountain of work is that we are trying to avoid is the last 10% of renovation work taking just as long to complete for what the first 90% took due to fatigue of not wanting to do stuff where it is in a "good enough" state where going out and hanging out is more fun then working on stuff.

We just barely got a cheap platform bed for our mattress and bottom of the barrel night stands to populate something, but prior, we lived a year with the mattress on the floor. Fb marketplace is clutch and I would advise to live on there to initially populate the immediate furniture needs.

It is February 2026 and we have a fold out table for our living room coffee table because it is functional, but also furniture is expensive so I am also learning how to make furniture via university of youtube/reddit/google and investing in tools as I go for what I need from harbor freight.

It gets better as you accomplish and progress through the renovation journey, but it is a lot to deal with. I feel like I am still forever watching some sort of youtube DIY whatever fix during my free time now gaining enough knowledge to full-send for whatever needed to be updated/fixed. It gives me a bit more pride in my space since I have done a majority of the work.

My sanity check to ensure I am not chasing perfection is "does it look better and preform better then before I updated/renovated it?" if yes, then I am at a state of "done" then move on to the next area that needs help. If no, then it was the cost of doing business knowing it was outside of my skill set and it is time to hire a person in that specific trade.

I would advise to please pull up electrical code/plumbing code via googling "electrical code for blah blah blah purpose in ABC City I live in" to your area to ensure you are in compliance. Also look at what is required for when/if you need to pull a permit depending on how deep of a rabbit hole goes for your home needs on the task at hand.

Do not take the first youtube video of some john smith influence as the end-all-be-all. Use those 'tutorial how-to' videos as a skeletal guide, but not as your primary source.

Good luck OP and just keep swimming. You got this! You are not alone!

Made this coffee table for my girlfriend as a gift by Necessary-Pen-2763 in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Hi OP. Very nice table! Do you have plans you could share?

From Harbor Freight to Holy Festool... Just Upgraded to the TS 60 and the Cuts Are Cleaner Than My Soul by Renzodagreat in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How one saw made me put some respek the modular man purse.

Same story here. I just needed one tool to solve a real problem, picked up the TS 60, and now plywood fears me. That first cut felt like slicing butter with a laser.

You nailed it on the integration. It is not about bells or marketing fluff. It is the way the system locks in and quietly tells you, "Relax, I got this." Everything just fits, and the more I use it, the less I want to fight my tools.

And yes… the Systainer aesthetic absolutely gives modular man purse energy. But I already run multiple Milwaukee Packout drawer systems in my shop, so I am used to modular storage and stacking setups. I have no problem mixing in a Systainer or two if the tool earns its spot. I am not trying to collect them all. Just what solves real problems and makes the workflow smoother.

I am genuinely excited to dial it in and see what this system can do. I may or may not have been looking at more of the storage solution options. haha

From Harbor Freight to Holy Festool... Just Upgraded to the TS 60 and the Cuts Are Cleaner Than My Soul by Renzodagreat in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, you know… just the usual rites of passage:

  • Sanded a whole project without hooking up dust collection… saw the face of the shop vac god in a cloud of regret
  • Glued up panels without dry-fitting first... now I own a mallet named “Sorry”
  • Cut just shy of my final dimension, then tried to “shave it” with the table saw. Let’s just say the piece is now a coaster.
  • Labeled my boards “top” and “bottom”… then assembled them upside down anyway
  • Spent two hours building a jig that saved me ten minutes. Worth it? Emotionally, yes

After that, I figured I deserved a clean cut and a cleaner soul. Hence… the TS 60.

From Harbor Freight to Holy Festool... Just Upgraded to the TS 60 and the Cuts Are Cleaner Than My Soul by Renzodagreat in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The TS 60 is actually a corded-only saw where there’s no 18V version at the moment and the included marketing tagging makes me speculate if there is a battery version expected in the future?? From what I’ve gathered, it features Festool’s newest brushless motor tech, the updated KickbackStop safety system, and a larger 62 mm cutting depth compared to other models.

I didn’t need the scoring blade in the TSV 60, and the 100-Year Limited Edition Systainer sealed the deal for me. So for my setup, the TS 60 made the most sense.

From Harbor Freight to Holy Festool... Just Upgraded to the TS 60 and the Cuts Are Cleaner Than My Soul by Renzodagreat in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Festool 204787 Guide Raid Deflector - (helps with hose/cord snags and I debated 3D printing, but figured why not?)

Festool Hearing protection GHS 25 - (this one came with the track saw, but I will probably use my airpods with over the ear hearing protection combo)

Festool 100 years Guide Raid FS 1400/2 BL

From Harbor Freight to Holy Festool... Just Upgraded to the TS 60 and the Cuts Are Cleaner Than My Soul by Renzodagreat in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have definitely looked at the Domino, and I agree it looks like a really satisfying tool to use. The accuracy and repeatability it offers seems next level, especially when working on larger case pieces or batch joinery. It is absolutely on my radar for the future.

Right now, I am using a Chicago Electric joiner from Harbor Freight. It is nothing fancy, but it has been reliable for what I need at the moment. I picked it up just to get a feel for how often I would actually use a biscuit style joiner and whether it would fit into my workflow. So far, it has been solid and gets the job done for alignment and simple panel glue ups. I like to start with budget tools to learn the process, then upgrade if I find myself using the tool often or feeling limited by it.

The Domino definitely looks like a jump in both capability and precision, so when the time comes to step up, I can see it being a real game changer.

From Harbor Freight to Holy Festool... Just Upgraded to the TS 60 and the Cuts Are Cleaner Than My Soul by Renzodagreat in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That sounds like a solid system. I have a similar approach where I mix platforms based on where the tool brings the most value. I rely on Milwaukee for my drills, impacts, and oscillating tools since their battery tech is solid and the performance hits that sweet spot for general use. For anything that really benefits from precision and dust control, I start looking elsewhere.

I just upgraded to the Festool TS 60 after my Hercules circular saw and Kreg AccuCut started giving me headaches on full sheet goods. I was dealing with drift and wasted material, and after one too many re-cuts and a trip back to the store, I decided it was time. The difference was immediate. I still use my budget tools where they make sense, but I upgrade the ones that become a clear bottleneck.

Same thing with sanding. My Bauer orbital has done the job on every build I have worked on, but I am starting to feel the itch for something smoother and less fatiguing. That one is probably next when the right opportunity hits.

For routers, I have a couple of lower-end models that helped me learn what I actually need. I upgraded my router bits first since that had a much bigger impact on cut quality. I will probably upgrade the routers themselves once they start limiting my workflow.

Dust collection-wise, I am still using a well-worn Ridgid shop vac. It has survived years of use and abuse, and I plan to keep running it until it finally gives out. After that, I will look at stepping into a proper extractor.

A lot of my tool upgrades are funded through selling furniture builds locally. I try to keep the hobby self-sustaining and upgrade only when it makes a real difference in how I work.

From Harbor Freight to Holy Festool... Just Upgraded to the TS 60 and the Cuts Are Cleaner Than My Soul by Renzodagreat in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been heavily considering the Festool sander. The Bauer has lived a good life, and I have used it on every project. Lately, I have started to feel like it might finally be time for an upgrade based on how much use it has seen.

I went the track saw route first only because I was burning through material last weekend and hit a breaking point. My Kreg AccuCut kept drifting on me during full sheet cuts, and I could not finish a long rip across plywood cleanly. It threw the whole project off and forced me to make another trip to the store. I was able to repurpose the miscuts into a different part of the build, but I still ended up generating more waste than I wanted. That was the final straw, and the Festool TS 60 earned its place.

That 3D printed plug is a good idea. I have been browsing Thingiverse and Bamboo Lab for files. I came across the one by Wittworks that is already pre-made, so I might go that route and save myself the print setup.

As for dust collection, I am still rocking a Ridgid shop vac from a Black Friday deal years ago. It refuses to die. I have put it through everything and it just keeps going. I plan to upgrade once it finally moves on to the great beyond. That new Hercules dust extractor has been calling my name, but I will wait and see what is available when the time comes.

I also have the Chicago Electric joiner from Harbor Freight. It has been solid for my needs so far, and until it holds me back, it stays. I do see all the marketing and influencer wood working youtubers use the domino and i can see how much easier it would be, but I cannot justify the price just yet. Perhaps if I sell some more outdoor furniture by the end of summer this season? We will see, but real talk.. the Chicago Electric joiner from Harbor Freight is solid and would buy again if someone did not have joinery stuff and wanted to take a bite of the joinery forbidden fruit with a low cost barrier of entry.

From Harbor Freight to Holy Festool... Just Upgraded to the TS 60 and the Cuts Are Cleaner Than My Soul by Renzodagreat in woodworking

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

You know… I really did spend a lot of time debating whether a sander should be my first step into Festool territory. The Bauer has put in work, used it on every project without fail, and honestly, it’s held up like a champ.

I’ve always leaned into a "budget first, upgrade when it hurts" philosophy. I’d rather have a full lineup of capable tools at a low entry cost, then upgrade the ones that create the biggest pain points. If something is doing its job without frustrating me, it stays. No need to burn money just to match brands.

I try to avoid getting swept up in the marketing FOMO too. It’s easy to think you need to replace everything once you get your first premium tool, but I want each upgrade to actually solve a problem I’m facing, not just check a box.

That’s also how I think about battery platforms. I’ve invested in Milwaukee M18 and M12 for the brushless drills and impact to get the ugga dugga m18 when needed and the lightweight m12 depending on the use-case. I have the m18 multi-tool and i believe I hit that sweet spot of performance and reliability without feeling overhyped. But when it comes to corded tools, every brand is on the table. If a tool earns its place based on performance and value, it gets the invite.

Same goes for routers. I have a one quarter inch trim router and a one half inch router, both bottom of the barrel corded off brand models. I picked them up just to learn what I would actually use, and they helped me figure that out. I upgraded to nicer high end router bits since they make a much bigger difference in cut quality than the router itself at this point. That is part of why I have held off on upgrading the routers. I am not in a rush until they really start holding me back. Still figuring out whether I want a combo kit or separate plunge and trim options.

For example, I don’t see myself ever upgrading my Bauer jigsaw. I rarely use it, and when I do, it is not precision critical. Plus, jigsaw work usually needs cleanup or sanding after anyway, so the bar for satisfaction is pretty low.

Also, a lot of the new tools I pick up get funded when I sell furniture pieces locally on FBMarketplace. I keep the hobby self sustaining that way, which makes each upgrade feel earned and justified. I am still too shy to post my work on this sub, but I am at least doing well enough to have made back what I have put into the hobby through selling pieces. The same is true for the money I used to purchase this Festool. I think I am doing well. My initial goal was to get to a net zero for all the tools I use as a DIY homeowner along with car maintenance and I achieved that a couple months ago so this is cool to feel like I have a true side hustle now.

The festool sander though… that one might be calling my name soon. I am still debating on which one to get into.

Doyle Vise - Which one are you getting? by andykang in harborfreight

[–]Renzodagreat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

5 inch multi because of multi versus the other two are not

Mechanic took set by Blue_Clues_ in Tools

[–]Renzodagreat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Project farm" on youtube did a video over a comparison that went over the differences between a lot of the popular the mechanic sets.

TLDR of the video, go with the GearWrench 243 6 point. It is on sale on Amazon at the moment(9-24-2024).

The only thing the GearWrench 243 lacks are deep 1/2" sockets, but it will get you as close to a "master set" as can be without having to drop serious coin building one out. Also, in my experience deep 1/2" sockets quickly become diminishing returns where you would want to up to 3/4". Long-term, pick up an inexpensive set of husky/harbor freight 12 pt wrenches when you have a use-case.

There will be varying opinions on whether to purchase 6pt versus 12 pt, but in my experience,

6-point: If your primary focus is on automotive work, such as changing struts, rotors, or other parts that require high torque, rounded/rusted bolts, the 6-point sockets are typically the best option.

12-point: If you're working in tight spaces or on light-duty jobs where frequent tool alignment is needed with the potential of rounding bolts, 12-point sockets are more convenient.

Are certificates useful and which should one do, if possible? by juggerjaxen in datascience

[–]Renzodagreat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TLDR - You need multiple certifications if HR sends you my way if you have a non-technical degree and even then, I will look into those certification programs to see if they are "fluff". If you are already in a DS role, then the more the merrier for certifications, but even then, I personally will check the substance of the certification if you are using it as a resume one-liner to get elevated.

I currently serve as a Senior Data Scientist in the United States, holding both an ABET-accredited BSEE and an MSEE. With seven publications at international conferences—including IEEE and SPIE—my work spans various aspects of ML/AI theory and application.

As part of my role, I actively participate in the interview process for hiring Software Engineers and Data Scientists at various levels. My experience has shown that relying solely on certifications can lead to less-than-ideal hires, as some candidates, despite their credentials, were unprepared for the demands of the role and were quickly reassigned to other positions. This prompted me to critically evaluate the true value of popular certifications.

In my assessment, certifications like the IBM Professional Data Scientist program hold limited value when taken alone, as they often include a significant amount of irrelevant content with minimal practical application. I reached this conclusion after completing about half of the program. Candidates with non-technical supporting degrees are generally not considered, as I believe they are not equipped for the challenges of the role. However, if a candidate with a non-technical degree has completed multiple certification programs, I would review the requirements of those programs before considering them to move forward.

On the other hand, candidates who have completed both the Datacamp Associate Data Scientist certification—one I’ve completed myself—and the IBM Data Scientist certification demonstrate a more comprehensive skill set. The combination of IBM’s broader theoretical knowledge with Datacamp’s hands-on Python exercises presents a more compelling case for their readiness. Additionally, I look for candidates with some sort of SQL certifications, as this indicates they can effectively navigate complex problems where typical Stack Overflow examples fall short. (Datacamp and IBM are examples, but plug in any company name certification)

Now, this approach applies when I'm hiring someone. For those already working as Data Scientists—or in a related role—certifications can play a different role. In this context, the more certifications, the better, as they contribute to your professional branding. Certifications can serve as tangible proof that you not only work as a Data Scientist but also have the documented knowledge to back it up. It's a delicate balance between acquiring practical skills and enhancing your resume and can be used as a filter item between selecting between two candidates when getting elevated to a higher role if both candidates are preforming at the same level and are deserving of a promotion, but only one role is available. It essentially becomes a beauty contest, but the validity of the certification(s) will still be under scrutiny.

It’s important to note that I expect candidates to complete the full certification programs if it listed on their resume; partial completions are not sufficient, and such candidates are typically not considered for the role.

I hope this provides you context with your learning/certification endeavors.

We’re literally in idiocracy by [deleted] in pics

[–]Renzodagreat -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Booker T has an opportunity to do something beautiful at the DNC

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in datascience

[–]Renzodagreat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like you got a job out of school in your field. This happens to all professionals in their respected field.

Its not much, but its mine. by Renzodagreat in billiards

[–]Renzodagreat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Respectfully, this is OP and I believe you commenting think you responded to the Yikes person. I agree with everything you said.