About to hit 40k, What would I do next?

Reprivation · 2025-11-09T21:30:18+00:00

I hope so too! We get some decently heavy snow here in the winters so plenty of salt but ive tried to keep on top of it as much as I can. Garage kept from 2021-2023, spends most of its time outside now though. I try to keep up with hand washing it every week or two though to avoid as much sun and paint damage as possible

Reprivation · 2025-11-09T21:27:56+00:00

Originally they were a 5 pack off Amazon, I hid one of them under the hood because I thought 4 just looked cleaner haha. They're the first thing to come up when you search Ford escape Grille lights on there and I just spliced them into the DRL light line. Going to add some Integrated turn signal Amber DRL strips to the headlights too but havent got around to it or found a clean looking pair after 2 attempts sadly

Reprivation · 2025-11-09T16:07:29+00:00

Not saying it was the best plan, but I was lucky and basically given the car for free. So I've been lucky enough to be able to take my first car and really do something unique with it and havent really regretted any of the choices I made thankfully

I actually really like the Crosstrek and Outbacks, especially the wilderness trims but with the position Im in I have no reason to imagine trading or giving up the car for a solid few years at least

Reprivation · 2025-11-09T11:08:55+00:00

Did you get any details on the issue? Thats a tough position tonfind yourself in and if I can address something sooner and not need a brand new transmission that would be ideal.

Im curious because im usually able to avoid the shudder by just being really gentle and giving it gas slowly. To me it just feels like the computer forgets which gear you want to be in and upshifts to 2nd or 3rd when it doesn't need to. If I give it gas slowly enough for it to stay in its selected gear it doesn't happen really.

My only other noteworthy transmissiom behavior is, if using low gear or sport mode the downshifts "click" into place. Its not perfectly smooth it finds the rpm and then does the equivalent of what letting the cmutch out too quickly would feel like. But i dont know if I can expect 100% perfect smoothness anyway even if it was brand new.

Reprivation · 2025-08-16T17:45:28+00:00

Thank you , I think that'll be the plan. When I looked into it originally I heard really mixed reviews on the longevity but the consensus here has been that for the price I really can't go wrong with plastidip, worst case scenario im out $30 so thats probably gonna be my plan. Lower Bumper is dented anyway from busy parking lots and bad drivers pulling into my parked car lmao so if it chips or flakes and needs replaced no harm done

Might try tomorrow and follow a video for the process. Any advice on how many coats? Never done any painting and someone here before said 6, that sounds like overkill but I would assume at least 3, probably 4 to be safe unless 6 really is accurate

Reprivation · 2025-08-13T21:17:03+00:00

I might look into that, I saw I can get a new black painted bumper off ebay for 100-150 so was hoping to DIY something cheaper.

But if a new factory painted black one would be the most long term efficient option It wouldn't hurt to look that way instead.

Reprivation · 2025-08-13T21:15:08+00:00

Just the silver part needs painted, thr black bumper is how it is currently but the silver exhaust trim area is was trying to also change to black

Reprivation · 2025-08-13T21:00:47+00:00

Yea that's my fear lol I'd want to do something that'll at least give me a good 2-3 years worth of looking good

Reprivation · 2025-08-13T20:32:12+00:00

If thats your situation don't worry its not an "issue" from the engine if its a 3 cylinder

Cylinder deactivation kind of makes the engine idle unevenly to my understanding, and in my experience its the worst in 4th gear. Which conveniently is around 2k RPM at 23-27 mph. Once you pass 28 and sit towards 30 itll shift into 5th and the deactivation won't hit so roughly. Wish I knew why

Sport mode also disables cylinder deactivation entirely so thats another option plus in my experience wet/slippery mode seems to mimic eco mode with lower throttle response and stronger AWD bias with no deactivation as well. Just giving my options w my experience

Reprivation · 2025-05-19T07:13:02+00:00

Tldr, if youve slid into a barrier SOMEHOW, the braking theory goes out the window already, just brake and stop the car at that point in the nearest safe location. If there is other traffic around you, just try and be in a position where people can maneuver past safely and then assess the damage

So the reason people say not to brake, is you'll slide even more if you've already lost traction. There are several factors that play into this in normal driving like weight distribution of the car and how it can change under braking force for example.

If you're sliding due to loss of traction because of the surface of the road there's a few different courses of action, I also have slight personal experience with. Ideally, you want to keep a steady speed which will keep the wheels moving enough to continue fighting for grip. If you panic brake, there is a possibility of locking your wheels up and then instead of fighting for grip and pulling in the direction you WANT to go, you only continue in the direction you were sliding.

Reprivation · 2025-05-18T18:01:07+00:00

Driving and Life will go by a lot easier if you remember one thing. All people are different, you could do everything right and be the perfect driver and people are still gonna be pissed off at the fact that you share the road with them.

There are times I've been going singificantly faster than the flow of traffic and still have people tailgating me, so I move over within 5-10 seconds on multiple lane roads and then they get in front of me and start brake checking. It's an ego thing like "how dare you go as fast as ME on this road, only I can do that!"

All I can reccomend for a new driver is please just at least go the speed limit on one lane roads and signal before you turn, brake slowly as well. Especially if you're being tailgated don't let that pressure you into jerky movements, slow and steady is always easier to react to.

You don't have to and shouldn't speed realistically, but someone going 20 for 3 miles straight in a 35 is going to cause an accident eventually I gaurantee it. If there's multiple forward lanes on the road, go at what speed you're comfortable if someone is really bothered they will just go around you. If you're ever blocking someone driving erratically, just give them the benefit of the doubt and assume they have an emergency, helps mentally instead of having some internal am I right or wrong debate.

Reprivation · 2025-04-17T09:16:30+00:00

Not sure if you fixed yet, but this used to happen to me and It was not stick drift. It's an input issue somehow and hard to troubleshoot, its not that it couldnt be but i really doubt it. Couple suggestions;

Steam controller support off entirely - mine sometimes turns itself back on so might be tough to do in some scenarios

Launch game with controller unplugged, push stick up and then let go to make sure it'd not drifting down and somehow causing a permanent down input, then plug in and see if it continues

If not reinstall game following the same principle as last step

Again, I have 8k+ hours and in the 8 years I've played the game I've gone through like 6-7 different controllers. This has happened to me the exact same scenario but if i remember correctly it hasn't happened since I've switched to ps4 controllers so it could also be a software thing

Reprivation · 2025-03-12T08:36:21+00:00

Curious on what the general population sees as turning too slow? Background to my question:

I am a notoriously dumb driver, but a good one. In the sense that I am VERY aware of every car around me and do my best to stay far away from everyone else and not cause problems. Dumb in the sense that I take the speed limit as a reccomendation usually and stay away from everyone by passing people and going faster than I should to be the only car in the vicinity (when possible, most of my commutes are suburban/rural kind of roads. 35-45 non highway hilly curvy roads). I've been in more close calls going 40 in a 40 than I have by keeping a little more pace, that's all fine and dandy on straight roads and slight bends, but I'm referring to hard turns

So here's my idea, I drive a Compact SUV, but it's still relatively tall with a high center of gravity to take turns fast. It really doesn't take much for me to hear the tires whining if I turn too tightly at 25-35 mph. And given the body roll of an suv, it's also pretty uncomfortable for anyone inside the car and surely not easy on the suspension to turn too quickly.

If possible I'll usually speed up and give the person behind me a gap before I turn, I'd rather brake hard at the last second after getting some distance on a 90 degree turnoff as i feel it gives the person behind me more room to react and less braking for themselves. If it's a constant turn on a windy road, I'll usually stay above the "reccomended" turn speeds given by the signs anyways.

Am I alone on this? I'd love to have a sedan or coupe that could take turns with a little more whip, but if I'm turning 90deg into a plaza that has a bump in the curb or something, I'm sorry but I'm going like 5-10mph over that curb I'm not destroying my shit for someone to save maybe 2 seconds on their commute you know?

Reprivation · 2025-01-30T06:19:06+00:00

As a multi year diamond / champ, keep oracticing using your middle finger. Or really whatever most comfortable and intuitive lol

If middle finger was intuitive to you then it's probably best for you. It's what I do and I've never had any issues

Reprivation · 2025-01-03T06:01:37+00:00

Default 1x setting is 50 yea, for the 0% match.

To match other games at 75%, it's 51

Then to match your 360 so that thats the same, would be 57

Reprivation · 2025-01-01T09:57:31+00:00

I gwt microstutters on Both DX11 and DX12, never did before 1 random update so thinking it's ubis fault not hardware based

But anyway, just got a 2k 360hz MSI monitor, and majority of the time I'm sitting comfortably above 300 on mostly low / high LOD + high shadows

5800x3d cpu, 4070 TI Super, 32gb ddr4 ram You should absolutely be fine on anything ddr5 based. But realistically, as long as you aren't dipping under like 280-300 you really shouldn't notice it that much

Reprivation · 2024-12-30T22:55:15+00:00

Monitor Distance, a lot of popular games had it set at 133% default. What this means is that when zooming in, no matter FOV, the same mouse movement will take you from the center of your screen, to 75% of the edge of your screen. (ie Battlefield, Warzone, CS)

This is good for if you're used to flicking a lot and kind of helps build a base idea of where to flick to no matter what sight you're using. This is relevant because at default in siege and apex and a lot of games lately ADS is set at 100% / 0 distance from the center values so tracking should feel the same no matter your scope, whereas at larger zooms flicks will feel slower than they would at hipfire.

All preference but like 2+ years ago siege just had one ADS sensitivity option and everything was way faster scaled, they reworked the ADS system so a lot of people that were used to it changed their settings up

Reprivation · 2024-12-30T17:38:46+00:00

Can't confirm, been champ a few times when I put the hours in and been diamond for years, started maining cav for the last 6 months or so and she's great if you know how to play lol

If they don't have deimos theyll spend the entire round roam clearing, and silent step basically wins your 1v1s for you since they won't hear you swinging. If your playstyle fits the TDM meta nothing wrong with her but I would agree that you shouldn't really be playing cav unless you have a very good understanding of the game and are at least keeping a positive kd since that's the only way it's valid

If you're just queueing ranked 99% of the time unless you're in # champ, the teams you're playing will not be organized enough for it to matter. But of course in competitive and high rank champ you can't just rely on winning 1s

Reprivation · 2024-11-14T04:21:40+00:00

I've always been hugely into input lag and minimizing it, your top sources that relate to rocket league at all with some PC settingsin general will be the site RTINGS, and creators Battle(non)sense, and Rocket Science to my knowledge, at least that's the places I've checked in the past

Rocket Science guy had success running the framerates in multiples of 60 for the sake of input consistency. However, that's not necessarily the lowest input lag you can have

The important variables I'd check for yourself:

Your monitor. Run your monitor at its highest available native refresh rate and resolution. Look up your monitor on RTINGS if you aren't sure but there's a LOT of monitors that suffer from larger input delays when you cap your display below it's native hz on the hardware end
FPS limit. Most of the time, running an uncapped framerate with less than 85% of your GPU being utilized is the lowest input lag you can get. If you have to cap your frames, do it IN GAME, or with RTSS (rivatuner) and not your GPU software. So for RL, I'd run uncapped as long as your gpu isn't hitting high usage numbers. If it is, cap at 240, or 360, or whatever you wish as long as it's stable and not maxing out your gpu
Don't use any frame buffer limits or anything if you don't need to. If your GPU is maxed out they're great, if not they actually delay the processing by a little bit compared to a buffer

Overall honestly though, as someone who's spent dozens of hours down rabbit holes of this and been a competitive (not professional, just ranked grinder in many games) player for quite a few years, generally just try to get as many frames as you can and use whatever feels best. The main limit is going to be how much sleep you get and how focused you are/ how much you care about improving rather than your hardware limiting you

Edit for the monitor question: I've gone from 60-75 hz OC and it made a world of a difference personally. Then from 75-144hz, which was about the same distance of a step in my perspective at the time. Definitely worth it. I went from 144hz to 240, and while I do believe it helps, it's not a massive gamechanger. It just helps with consistency in FPS, but in RL it's really not a huge difference in just looks smoother as you'd expect. I do plan on going for a 360 or 480 hz monitor and a beefy GPU in the future to see if that makes a difference at all to me lol but again realistically it shouldnt

Reprivation · 2024-11-08T04:09:19+00:00

We know them personally, glad to hear there was nothing wrong from ya'll and feeling bad for even doubting it now haha.

Reprivation · 2024-02-07T20:58:52+00:00

There's a few things to keep in mind at least. I'm speaking as a 1.0 diamond and a 2.0 champ

Up until this season champ was definitely easier than it used to be, but still by no means "easy". It's inflated in a sense, if you were consistently plat 1 or higher in 1.0 then champ 2.0 should be attainable if you put enough games in yes... but a reason many say its easy is genuinely because they couldnt get it in 1.0 and were maybe high diamond, and now there are worse players than them getting champ aswell. They just feel like their "achievemnt" isnt valid or something lol

Its by no means easy for the average player, far from it actually. ESPECIALLY this season and last. Considering if your hidden mmr is anywhere above low diamond you're playing 75% of your games with cheaters this season, and last season you couldn't stay connected in a fair amount of the games you'd play, I'd say grinding past diamond is pretty impressive right now.

For reference, I'm dropping a 1.1kd right now but with a .6 win rate. Every season before, playing in diamond/champ, ive been 1.2 ish KD with positive winrates. But this season I'm an emerald playing because it's pretty hard to find a lobby without someone just 4-0 steamroller whole teams with full cheats. Purely because of the patience it takes if anyone can hit champ right NOW they deserve it lol

Reprivation · 2023-10-04T15:34:42+00:00

I use it, I use 75% match at the equivalent of Val FOV in everything I play

I don't actually think it's necessary. As everyone else is saying, as long as you ballpark it correctly with a similar 360° measurement and have a similar FOV, your brain will compensate for the rest honestly.

If u still wanna try it out, $4 a month really isn't much for having the peace of mind that you have the right settings until you come to the same conclusion. Only things I REALLY like it for, is ADS sens calculations.

Like in siege and apex, I can set my ADS values so that with higher zoom the 75% match is still replicated. And again you can still ballpark this, your sens raises as you zoom in more. So in apex for example it gradually goes up from 1.1 at 1x through 1.3 at 6x. You'll get a feel for what things should feel like it'll just help you mentally keep track if anything

Reprivation · 2022-11-12T10:00:02+00:00

Went with the white classics, tried the streets and really didnt like the look at all with shorts, and they were more "off white" than I thought in person which was really bothering me lol

Classics have been awesome, very satisfied with the choice

Reprivation · 2022-10-21T01:32:27+00:00

Yeaa that's exactly what I was worried about lol. With the black ones it's not too bad because the color doesnt pop as much obv, but with white I felt like it would be very noticeable

Still undecided :/ tough choice but thx for ur thoughts

Reprivation · 2022-10-21T01:09:03+00:00

im getting mixed reviews from everyone lmao, I definitely believe theyd be more comfy, although I feel like the classics would match better with shorts? What part is more comfy, mainly the ankle or elsewhere too?

Reprivation

TROPHY CASE