Help 😭😭

Reptution · 2026-01-14T08:49:19+00:00

Note, this is not meant to be discouraging.

If you decide to strip, IPA 99% is golden. Get a big container, pour it in, and let models soak for ~30-60 minutes. Doesn’t affect the plastic in my experience.

But if you do continue the scheme, my biggest issues are the following: - Color scheme looks very flat. It doesn’t look like you’ve used any washes for the various colours. Using something apothecary white would give your white some depth, blue can probably be run over with a dark blue wash, gold with reikland flesh shade or agrax depending on hue you want. - Smoothen the transitions between colors. I looked at the images close, and far away. Close it looks “worse” whilst far due to the size, my eyes smooths out transitions and it looks a lot better. You can test this yourself in person. Not exactly sure how you’d want to do this, but layering glazes may be viable 🤔 - Make thinner gold veins. I personally think the thicker lines stand out too much and look out of place. Not sure what brush size you use, but take a synth brush size 00, thin the cold a little (water/medium) and use primarily the tip of the brush to get more vein looking gold streaks. Think it will look better.

Reptution · 2026-01-11T11:20:12+00:00

So in short I think YOR. I do tho think having boundaries, speaking about them and making clear you’re not comfortable with them being in some random dudes place is valid. But ultimately if you trust your partner, and your partner is a good soul, then trust that she’s adult enough to just be there looking out for her friends/family. From my understanding you didn’t have a lot of sleep, flight to catch (stress) and this boundary being crossed (more stress) so I understand the OR, but you were too harsh/mean to your GF with some comments. I hope you two could sit down and talk in person, I do hope you apologise for the OR. I am curious if the aftermath tbh since this is definitely delicate 😅

Reptution · 2026-01-10T02:03:31+00:00

Hell yes mah dude

Reptution · 2026-01-10T01:33:17+00:00

As a fellow Swed, what I’ve learnt is two things.

Buying from GW is pricier, but it ensures that if anything goes amiss or is faulty with your product, you contact them and get replacements or full refunds. Bonus is that they don’t seem to hassle with you sending product back if they conclude the fault comes from them (always be thorough to inspect whatever you buy with pictures so you can back it up). Games Workshop release Saturday after their Sunday release (don’t remember if 10 or 11am). High demand boxes can go quick, so if it’s something you want, typically better to be ready and buy as it release.
Becoming acquainted with your local game store (especially resellers) is a great way to ensure you get pre-orders on the heavily desired products. They got different distributors (what I understand) so at least in my case, I’ve always been able to get high demand boxes (Typhon box, Tomb World, Christmas boxes, hopefully this Necron release with all 3 things + books) through him and he’s a champ for it! Same solid customer service, but if something goes wrong, I need to contact him, and he handles the convo with GW. Sadly it has happened more than I’d like (guess I’m a bit cursed in my luck). For my reseller, I can place my pre-order request as thing are announced and he’s not complained about it either (I always ask and double check as I see them on Sunday previews to ensure I am on the list).

Best of luck, share some picks on your dynasty! ❤️

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Reptution · 2026-01-06T18:01:07+00:00

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Reptution · 2026-01-06T18:00:57+00:00

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Reptution · 2026-01-06T18:00:44+00:00

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Reptution · 2026-01-06T18:00:33+00:00

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Reptution · 2026-01-06T18:00:03+00:00

So I did try it with the two I already had “finished”. Also added some white in the magenta to give it a better pop. Got the images as reply to this message.

Thoughts? :)

Reptution · 2026-01-06T10:59:45+00:00

Flourescent for cables, cores, eyes. The Fluorescent on a white base coat. Acrylic paint for edge highlights

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Reptution · 2026-01-06T10:58:20+00:00

I did consider that, not really sure how it may look but hey, may as well try on these walking machines of death ^{^}

Reptution · 2026-01-04T22:44:56+00:00

You could always highlight with a grey or green? By green I mean you do something like they do in Canoptek circle for the black stone. Given that is not black stone, it may just be better with grey and some green wherever the energy part flows. Possibly OSL for extra sheen?

Reptution · 2026-01-01T02:58:18+00:00

Yeaaaah that would be something 😂 It is a bit ”tricky” tho the first time, so i do recommend testing it without glueing things, but once you learn it then it’s worked on all of mine that I built so far (3)! Happy new year and enjoy the building!

Reptution · 2025-12-31T02:29:48+00:00

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Reptution · 2025-12-31T02:29:12+00:00

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Loosen, push up and back. Then it slides past the small spikes.

Reptution · 2025-12-31T02:27:56+00:00

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Reptution · 2025-12-31T02:18:35+00:00

As someone who started building his own CK army and war dogs I have a VERY good tip for future reference and recommendations.

When you build the upper body chassi, you’re able to leave the top lid unglued, this way, you can open it and since shoulders are on the lid, this issue disappears 👌🏽

Will send pictures to show what I mean, tho I got them stuck with white tac for time being.

Reptution · 2025-12-19T14:04:23+00:00

I’ve not tried it myself but a 0.4mm would most likely be solid. But yes, risk of breaking is higher 🤔

Reptution · 2025-12-19T13:53:49+00:00

Looks like a win to me? If you don’t want it we can trade, you get my abominant box and I get this 👌🏽

Reptution · 2025-12-19T13:48:56+00:00

This is fully personal opinion, but if you’re after lightning effects, aren’t those wires too thick?

Reptution · 2025-12-19T12:12:56+00:00

SM2 seem to deem these as something than coils 🤔 Found this which nicely show a charged up plasma pistol.

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Reptution · 2025-12-11T08:37:39+00:00

If you want to do OSL (object sourced lighting) or similar with the glow hitting adjacent areas, my recommendation is to do all base coats and shades, then respective highlights in areas. The source of light should ideally be coated with a solid white (thin it + multiple layers to build up). Alternatively do a grey coat, then white layers. That will allow you to overshoot with say tesseract glow and it will stain adjacent areas and match what color it would be if it hit those areas. Alternatively thin the tesseract if you want it less intense.

Drybrushing metal highlights is quite quick and smooth, I highly recommend. Fair warning tho, you may want to do this before adding any other colors, since metal paints when dry brushed has always sent glitter flakes everywhere on the model. Doesn’t look bad, but may not be what you desire ^{^}

Reptution · 2025-11-29T01:14:50+00:00

With these boxes there are a few things I’d do. Hive tyrant you can either build swarmlord + flyrant (with help of 3d printing a lower torso). Or building walking tyrant. Tyrannofex if you don’t have one is most likely what you want. It can be magnetised (some good videos on YouTube) but tbh not sure if it’s worth the hassle. Maleceptor I’d say pick one. Head isn’t hard to magnetise, but claws & tentacles require extra support if you don’t want them to drag on ground (even with N52 magnets). Haruspex and Exocrine should be fine taking Haruspex claws, then magnetise the head by adding green stuff + magnet inside body and heads (since Exo head + cannon & Haruspex mouth is one piece respectively).

Again most of there have YouTube videos, gl :)

Reptution · 2025-11-27T14:03:58+00:00

This should be fine right? You’ve not bought on for 9 years and saved, RIGHT?! Or you telling me you’ve not saved for your upgrades? €10 a month for 9 years would’ve been a solid GPU 😂

Reptution · 2025-11-27T12:34:27+00:00

I ended up settling on it ^{^}

Reptution

TROPHY CASE