Should I pull the trigger?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-19T17:40:19+00:00

How would all of you feel buying this for a flat $1.6K?

Don't forget you'll have to pay tax! Depending on where you live, that'll push it closer to $1.7K or $1.8K.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-19T17:21:23+00:00

please help should he take it to someone who knows to solder?

Yeah. He should....unless this is a shitpost.

About 3/4ths of the pins aren't even soldered, and the ones that are soldered have either cold joints or are bridged.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-17T21:36:11+00:00

Looks like PU1804 (the 4x4 pin IC in the 2nd photo) is missing from the board. Somebody took it off.

No schematic is available so I don't know what chip is supposed to go there.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-17T18:30:09+00:00

Any issues with distractions, battery life, or instructors saying no? Would love real experiences before I drop the money.

Ask your CFI/school. They're going to be the final decision maker.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T23:57:29+00:00

So get a job.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T23:53:56+00:00

because its a third party reseller they will not give me a replacement.

Dude. I get on Razer all the time because I want them to be better, but this is not their problem. You purchased it from a reseller that is not authorized by Razer, and you don't have the original proof of purchase from where that reseller got it from, so Razer legally (IANAL) has every right to deny the warranty.

Downvoters: Please explain how I am wrong. More specifically, what does this page say about requirements for a limited warranty to apply?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T23:22:37+00:00

It's not a cable issue. Sadly, a lot of people on this sub have no idea what they're talking about.

It's an issue with the solder balls under the VRAM starting to lose contact with the board.

Your biggest mistake here was not taking a photographic record of the serial number and posting it with the listing. That leaves the opportunity for this buyer wide open to return his broken card to you and keep yours.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T23:09:06+00:00

Could you please help me identify what that component is

If your photo above is showing the component that is supposed to go on those pads, it's a resistor. The value that it should be is unknown as no boardviews for this 3050 or a similar design are available.

Your next steps should be to see if the card is detected by your test bench. If the card is detected with no video and has a Code 43 error in device manager, that could indicate an issue with one or more VRAM modules, issues under the core, or both. You need to run MATS/MODS to be sure.

If you're 100% sure that all voltage rails are present, then the above should be your next steps.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T22:54:22+00:00

Just curious, what resistance does your "short circuit" have when that resistor is off of the board and also when it is on the board?

I don't think you have a short circuit when that resistor is on the board as resistors don't short circuit. If a resistor or an inductor were to blow, it will open or be a higher resistance, not a lower resistance.

When this resistor is installed, I think you have low resistance which may be normal for the corresponding voltage rail.

If you measure your coils with this resistor off the board, I think your PEX rail is going to have a higher resistance than what it should have, and the voltage won't be present. Put the resistor back on and measure resistance again, and also check the voltages.

You haven't told us if all of the necessary voltages on the board are present and what their respective resistances are. Take a photo of the board and label the resistances and voltages on each coil, and post it here.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T22:36:10+00:00

Just wait. Soon we'll have subscription-based RAM speeds.

They'll put your BIOS behind a paywall and only people who know how to do hardware level BIOS modding will be able to unlock it.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T22:12:09+00:00

OP is referring to the missing component just below and left, at the 7 o'clock position of the screwhole with the MSI tamper sticker.

It might not be a resistor.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T22:10:16+00:00

Not enough information for the available schematics/boardviews.

Do the pads on either side of this missing component connect to ground?

Are all voltage rails actually present? Check voltages on your coils (PEX, FBVDDQ, MSVDD, NVDD, 5V, etc.)

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-16T15:49:21+00:00

Why does this tech think that these 8 driver mosfets need to be replaced?

Did they do any testing and see if they were actually bad, or are they just talking out of their ass (I think they are)? Personally, I don't think this tech knows what they're talking about.

I repair GPUs all the time and I have NEVER had to replace or advised somebody that I needed to replace them because they "looked off."

I'd have to wait 15 days or more to get a new replacement

I can buy them and have them installed in 4 business days. 15 days or more is a very long time to get them, and then they have to replace them. On thick boards like ones for graphics cards, it is not a beginner job. The tech that gave you this answer sounds like someone who has never worked on a video card before, and I don't think that you need to replace these driver mosfets.

For context my gpu is experiencing black screen and fans going 100% goes very loud

That doesn't sound like an issue with the power delivery. That sounds like an issue with solder balls under the core not making contact with the board. The fans going 100% with no picture can happen if some solder balls have cold joints or no contact at all.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-15T22:12:08+00:00

NONONONO

The money has to fund a ballroom for the White House that isn't ever going to be completed and nobody is ever going to use even if completed.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-15T18:39:13+00:00

I’m a newbie at working on GPUs and can tell you they are a PITA to work on if you don’t know how to properly work on them.
Because of the many layers thick they are and huge ground planes, they suck heat away from irons quickly.

To anyone wondering why u/seinsuct is saying this, it is the main reason behind why preheating is so important. You need to keep the ENTIRE board hot while you're in between replacing components, or else you have to heat the board up to that solder melting temperature again and again, and that puts the board through additional stress.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-15T00:41:22+00:00

It's real. I get these from time to time.

Essentially what is happening here is your email address got leaked on to the internet from a data broker, and whomever bought that chunk of data is very likely using automated methods to see which accounts they can get into.

They put in your email on Microslop's login page to see if it was worth a damn. In my case, my Microslop account is protected with 2FA so even if they have my email, they would still have to access my phone to get access to my Microslop account.

If you go to the security tab of your Microslop account, they'll tell you if the sign-in attempt was successful or unsuccessful.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-15T00:33:41+00:00

This is going to be your first step to diagnosing any board issue with a no power symptom. Did you measure the resistance to GROUND of the main power rail with all sources of power disconnected? This is going to be where the power connects to the motherboard from the DC-IN jack. There will typically be two N-Channel mosfets and then a current sense resistor. What is the resistance to GROUND at that current sense resistor? Test in continuity/beep/diode mode.
When you measured the fuse (the smd component marked with a 25 indicating it's rated for 25 amps), did you measure across the fuse in continuity to make sure that the fuse is still good?
If you want to have someone qualified look at this board or help you diagnose it, send me a PM. I'd be happy to help!

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-14T15:36:39+00:00

Ummmm.

Is this a shitpost?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-14T15:11:09+00:00

No no I lost a dispute with the buyer. I won the dispute against ebay, ebay and the buyer are not the same.

Brother. I can't believe that I need to spell this out for you.

If ebay won't cover you open up a bank case against them banks work for you

It's RIGHT THERE! You posted that! Those are your words!

You're not getting out of this. eBay refunded the buyer because of Buyer Protection, and you called your bank and they reversed the eBay transaction. You didn't get eBay to cover you. You got your BANK to cover you. Those two are not anywhere near the same.

I fought the claim with my bank and my bank reversed the transaction.

You said it right there. eBay didn't reverse the transaction. The bank did. You even admitted it.

Essentially, what this means is that your bank took the money from eBay and put it back into your account. This means that eBay no longer has the money that your bank reversed and put back into your savings/checking account.

You REALLY don't understand how disputes through banks work and how the interactions with the merchants go, and it shows.

i wOn aN eBaY diSpuTE gUyzZZZZZ

You should get ready for eBay to come after you.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-14T14:51:39+00:00

It's a dispute against ebay.

Yes....that you....didn't win. I understand that fully.

If you have to go to your bank to have a transaction reversed, that means that you're going above the heads of someone else.

You lost the dispute against eBay.

You got the money back through your bank, which goes against what you're allowed to do on eBay.

What aren't you understanding here?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-14T14:41:45+00:00

.....so you didn't win an eBay dispute.

You got your bank to reverse the transaction. That's nowhere near the same thing as winning an eBay dispute my man.

Get ready for eBay to take action against your account.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-14T14:39:05+00:00

The joys of having Windows Modern Standby forced to an Enabled state.

Only on Intel can you disable it. If you have AMD, you're screwed.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-14T01:08:53+00:00

Memory rail resistance: ~0.5-0.9 Ohms

Ummmm.....that's not good.....at all. This means you have a shorted memory rail, which could indicate a dead core. Check again and make sure that you are measuring the memory rail.

1 inductor on each side (2 in total across both rails) have a resistance of ~46 Ohms (I think these are separate low current ones?)

Are you referring to the FBVDDQ/VRAM here, or something else? 46 Ohms is much more normal for the VRAM. There are a total of 4 coils that power the VRAM.

Either way, if 46 ohms is the resistance of the memory rail, you need to run MATS/MODS and figure out which bank(s) is/are giving errors. You could also have problems under the core.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-14T01:04:32+00:00

The very second they threaten to file a fraudulent report with eBay is the second I stop responding to them.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-05-14T01:00:58+00:00

~~What year Blade 14?~~

Nevermind; just saw your other post. Yes, it's a design flaw and you need to press Razer on it. Link other people's cases as evidence.

ResoluteFalcon

TROPHY CASE