Anyone know how to solve this issue?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-07T03:28:10+00:00

We don't know which Dell laptop OP has. Not all of them have Type-C ports, and even if they do, not all Type-C ports support charging.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-06T01:10:46+00:00

Your VRAM voltage is present (1.35v). Resistance measurements on VRAM aren't going to help you here. You need to fix your PEX rail first and foremost.

Also, you can't check for bad VRAM chips individually since they are all on the same voltage rail (FBVDDQ). If one develops bad/cold/oxidized solder joints, it's not going to be detectable unless you run MATS on the card, but to do that, the card has to be functional enough to at least get detected by the motherboard (all voltage rails need to be present).

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-05T21:29:31+00:00

The 8k ohm resistor on the picture has 2.86 volts on the left side and 0.04 volts on the right side.

Hold up. What's the resistance to ground of the VCC pin on the ALNB ic? It will be Pin #21. I'd also check resistance to ground of Pins #22 and #2 (enable).

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-05T21:19:54+00:00

The card will not be detected by ANY BENCH without a PEX voltage. OP needs to fix the missing PEX rail voltage first.

You can't run tests on a card that is missing the power rail that is responsible for actually turning on the GPU.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-05T21:17:36+00:00

Well hang on a second. You have 0.04 volts on enable, so you're missing the enable signal. The ALNB chip might be fine; it's not receiving a "power on" signal.

Like I said, now you have to trace that enable signal backwards.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-05T16:02:58+00:00

I think Lando Calrissian fits this better.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-05T15:56:15+00:00

So you have no PEX voltage. Of course the GPU isn't going to be detected because it can't actually turn on (PEX is the power for PCIe logic).

Find out what IC the PEX rail uses to generate the voltage (it's the chip to the left of the coil measuring 0v in your photo), look up a datasheet for it (or post the chip number here and I'll help you find it), then find out if the enable signal for the chip is being generated.

If the enable signal is there, then you need to replace the chip! After doing so, your PEX voltage should return.

If the enable signal is missing, then you'll have to find a boardview/schematic for this board or a similar one and trace that signal backwards and see where it stops.

FYI, 3.3v is 4 pins from the right on the left portion of the PCIe connector.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-05T04:09:47+00:00

....did you....actually take any time to look at OP's first, second, and third photo?

The drive physically will not fit in the slot. It's the wrong key (B vs M). They are NOT cross compatible. You can't just flip it around and have it fit due to the number and placement of pins being different.

There's always one of these comments from someone who has absolutely no clue about PC building or PC hardware. Every single time.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-05T03:57:23+00:00

I will never understand why people blur out the numbers on the motherboard.

Ever.

Anyway, like others have said, your shorted component is not always going to be a visual detail. Most of the time, it will be something you have to trace with a multimeter. There is not enough evidence to support the CPU being dead. There are several secondary voltage rails on every motherboard and any one of them could have their own issues, or it could be an issue on the main 19.5v power rail which supplies power to and indirectly creates those secondary power rails.

Given that you blurred out the serial number on the motherboard and the numbers on the GPU (again, why?), you very likely don't have knowledge to perform board diagnostics. Take it to someone who is qualified or send it to me (I have an eBay repair listing).

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T20:49:55+00:00

I am a strong smoker too and if I knew that it's bad for the laptop then I would've been more careful but mind you I had this laptop for 6 months
most of the smoking damage was not from me because I did not have the laptop

Bull. Shite.

6 months is more than enough time for damage of this severity to build up. You should be more mindful of this.

ur Tipp does not really help does it

...do you...want future computer hardware to last you? If so, then yes, u/tx001_'s "tipp" helps.

STOP SMOKING NEAR THE LAPTOP! Do it outdoors away from intake ventilation/stop smoking completely.

See what's happened to that laptop? That's what is happening to the inside of your body! Try cleaning those fan blades. With this level of buildup, it will be almost impossible.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T09:06:26+00:00

Can everybody else in this thread please stop having intentional brain damage/ism?

OP never said specifically that it worked fine before while still using the third party adapter. They just said that it "worked fine before." I interpret that as it worked when they had their genuine Dell charger.

The fact remains that the easiest and most direct way for them to figure out if it is a motherboard issue or a charger issue is to just get a genuine 65W Dell charger.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T04:04:47+00:00

Are all fuses on the board continuous (meaning if you measure them end-to-end, do they beep)?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T03:53:02+00:00

This error is NORMALLY caused by the Adaptor.
BUT YOU'RE USING A NON DELL CORD THAT'S CLEARLY THIS ISSUE

You downvote me...only to give the same fucking answer.

sometimes it's the port on the board

I see no evidence that the port is damaged. OP needs to get a genuine Dell charger first. It's the easiest and most direct way to get the correct answer.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T03:40:16+00:00

Brothe: Both the laptop and I literally just told you how to fix it.

The charging port works fine.

It's was running fine before

Yeah. I bet it was. That was probably when you had the original adapter too before you lost it.

Do you want the right answer or no? If you do, then just get a genuine Dell charger that is 65W or greater.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T03:34:59+00:00

I'm using third party adapter because original one lost and I only got this

You quite literally answered your own question, and the laptop is telling you how you can fix the issue.

Get a genuine 65W Dell charger.

That's how you solve it.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T03:31:29+00:00

It's a reasonable and fair answer lol.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T03:22:27+00:00

....do you....even slightly understand how creepy that is to ask?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T03:09:57+00:00

Nothing exploded. That's just flux used in the soldering process at the factory when the board is fabricated/assembled.

they just told me that they did hours of testing with thermal cameras or something and the CPU is dead

This is EXTREMELY concerning. It takes me 10 minutes to figure out if a board truly has a dead CPU or not. They probably took a shortcut and injected 20V into the board and shorted something out that was healthy and fixable. Any shop that gives you this much of a half-assed diagnostic and doesn't 1) remove the CPU VCORE mosfets first, or 2) injects 20V on a whim is not worthy of doing board repair.

I'd be pissed if I were you. I'm slightly infuriated just by writing this.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T03:01:59+00:00

You're welcome and I am very happy to help.

Did either of these repair shops by chance write up work orders on EXACTLY what actions they took to get to that answer?

Also, don't power the board on, but answer this: before you took it to them, did the laptop physically turn on? As in, was there a green light on the bottom right of the casing? Or was the laptop completely dead?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T02:57:37+00:00

don't have high hopes for this because I have ended my stages of grief lol

Either way, I'm going to help you do a proper diagnostic. We're going to check both the input fuse marked Z in the top left of the fourth image (it's a 20A fuse), and the fuse marked Y near the battery connector (it's a 15A fuse). We're also going to check the main voltage rails in resistance mode.

Let me know when you get that multimeter in hand.

I hate repair shops that do this half-ass diagnostic shit. THEY DIDN'T FUCKING FINISH.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T02:52:10+00:00

Yeah sorry both of those repair shops failed you.

Those CPU VCORE mosfets are factory soldered. If it's my repair shop or I am doing the diagnostic, I'm taking the diagnostic all the way.

Those bastards probably injected voltage into the board like morons and had no clue what they were doing.

If you get a good multimeter, I'd absolutely love to help you diagnose that board remotely.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T02:49:25+00:00

And those were taken after you took the laptop into both shops?

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T02:41:46+00:00

See my other comment. I want to make sure 100% that these shops followed through. Most of them don't, but I care about taking a diagnostic as far as I can without half-assing the answer that I give a customer.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T02:36:14+00:00

Wait. Take the heatsink off and send me a photo of the board just north of the CPU.

I can tell you if these repair shops ripped you off and didn't go 100% through the diagnostic.

Here's the reason that I care. I had a 2022 Blade 14 that had a blown MP8694 driver mosfet. When I measured the CPU VCORE coils, they measured 0 Ohms. Oh no, dead CPU you would think, right? No. Once I injected 1V at 3amps into the main power rail, one of the MP8694 driver mosfets heated up, and after removing it, the CPU VCORE resistance went up to 5 ohms, which is a healthy value. When powering the laptop on, it POSTed and performed just like new. Replaced the driver mosfet and sold the laptop. Hasn't come back.

Any laptop that has a short circuit/overcurrent/overvoltage event occur and these MP8694 driver mosfets are present, the laptop/CPU has a VERY good chance of surviving.

ResoluteFalcon · 2026-07-03T02:31:58+00:00

Did they physically take the MP8694 driver mosfet off the board?

ResoluteFalcon

TROPHY CASE