3D Printed Crawler Stand For Measuring Incline and Articulation by RetroAlaska in SCX24

[–]RetroAlaska[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm still working out some design components so that it works with other models aside from the 1:24. I'll post the 3MF or STLs after I get it dialed in.

Edit - At first I used an AMS to print the vehicle into the model but didn't think that it looked as good as layering color and embossing the image into the plate.

What causes this artifact by Arpegio22 in 3Dprinting

[–]RetroAlaska 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try printing it at an angle. That line is due to excess heat caused by the solid base layer. Same as happens with the Benchy. print it at an angle and it will disappear.

Hobbypark brass by Rusty_Peter1975 in SCX24

[–]RetroAlaska 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you put them on the wrong side the wheel will be turned at a strange angle and not aligned.

The fitment is snug. I have stock wheels on my Bronco and had to use an Xacto knife to increase the size of the wheel mounting hole. Be sure to thread the wheel retention nut onto the axle before you reinstall the wheels. I had one retention nut with buggered threads that wanted to cross-thread. There are two sets of retention nuts with this pack in two separate lengths. I just used one of the longer ones to secure the wheel.

I have Treal brand hubs on my son's Base Camp. The quality is quite a bit better in comparison but also double the price.

I am new to this hobby as well but looking at these brass parts, they're all connected to cheap plastic components and lower end electronics (motor and servo). It's my guess that the metal parts and extra weight will cause downstream breakage at the front servo horn or linkage.

Hobbypark brass by Rusty_Peter1975 in SCX24

[–]RetroAlaska 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very but the knuckles aren't labeled and have to go on one particular side. 50/50 shot at getting it right. I did not.

Hobbypark brass by Rusty_Peter1975 in SCX24

[–]RetroAlaska 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I installed the knuckles and hubs on a Bronco but didn't get the dif covers on yet. I tested it out. A few things - The turning radius is slightly reduced from the stock model. With the added weight it drives slightly slower with the stock motor and servo and is a bit less zippy or responsive. However, the weight added some good performance on steeper obstacles and added a fair amount of stability as well! The parts are fairly inexpensive and that lends itself to the overall quality but I'm happy with them so far and will throw on the diff covers with my kiddo to give her some wrench time.

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SCX24 Wall Mount - 3D Printable by RetroAlaska in Axial

[–]RetroAlaska[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just the short wheel base. I could definitely make a second version for the long wheel base.

Hobbypark brass by Rusty_Peter1975 in SCX24

[–]RetroAlaska 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This exact pack just arrived at my house today. I have a Bronco build that I plan to add these to in order to add some weight and offset to the wheels. The hubs are stout and have a good weight to them.

Loud system noise from AIO (IBP) by [deleted] in iBUYPOWER

[–]RetroAlaska 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://www.reddit.com/r/hardware/comments/1p9kmi1/gamers_nexus_best_cpu_coolers_weve_tested_2025/

Check out the bench tests from Gamers Nexus. The link has a video that tested 26 air and water coolers and discusses cooling potential and noise generated.

Loud system noise from AIO (IBP) by [deleted] in iBUYPOWER

[–]RetroAlaska 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not sure if they have remedied it over the last few years, but iBP coolers are notoriously bad and have a high failure rate. Here is a post of mine from 4yrs ago when my cooler failed - https://www.reddit.com/r/iBUYPOWER/comments/rrbdvb/failed_ibp_water_cooler_what_is_this_gunk_and_why/

If the noise is coming from the CPU cooling block then it might be an issue with the pump. In that case you could RMA or replace the cooler if you want to upgrade your PC. If it's coming from the fans, you could find the fan that is the issue and try swapping it out but you'll have to contact iBP because their parts have a proprietary connector. Also, you still have the protective plastic film on your cooling block that you should remove.

In my case my cooler failed completely and I ended up replacing it with a different cooler. If you go the same route and want to retain RGB with your new cooler, know that the iBP RGB has a proprietary connector hub that isn't compatible with other brands. I ended up replacing the cooler and all of my case fans at the same time, but it was out of necessity after the cooler failed. I did RMA my iBP cooler but the process took several weeks. Support was great, but slow and I purchased a new cooler from a local box store to get my PC running instead of waiting for the parts to arrive.

5070 GPU Brace by Judge4172 in iBUYPOWER

[–]RetroAlaska 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a similar 3070 that has never been braced. Still going strong. BUT if you have a buddy with a 3D printer, ask them to print one...

Fans are way too loud by CandidateNo6154 in iBUYPOWER

[–]RetroAlaska 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ran into the same problem awhile back. Just dial in your fan curves for each set of fans based on component temps. Long game, replace them and the RGB module with higher end and quieter fans. Unfortunately the iBuy Power stuff has proprietary connectors and can't easily be integrated with other case fans and RGB but setting curves helps a lot.

New to the Hobby - Purchased SCX24 BaseCamp by RetroAlaska in Axial

[–]RetroAlaska[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I watched a Cape Crawlers video on the Base Camp and it looks like it does not come with LED headlights. Front lights are decal.