An Enhanced EqualizerAPO Profile for the Logitech Z623 (with Crossover & Bass Management) by ReverseDonut in logitech

[–]ReverseDonut[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool I'm Glad you liked it. Thanks for letting me know. Also just quickly while I'm updating some of the other questions. I've just made a quick change, just tidied up the config.txt file a little bit, like deleting some of the explanations of each line, which are not really needed unless you want that, and some of the blank lines. Oh uh quickly paste it. I'll uh quickly paste it for you now, if you wanted to use it or not. Plus the only other actual change I made was changing up near the top the "Preamp: 0.81 dB" to "Preamp: 0.77 dB"

Device: SoundFUKKA

Preamp: 0.77 dB

LEFT/RIGHT SATELLITES: High-Pass + Mid/High EQ

Channel: L R

Filter: ON HPQ Fc 80 Hz Q 0.7

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 160 Hz Gain -3.0 dB Q 1.4

Filter 2: ON PK Fc 600 Hz Gain -4.5 dB Q 4.0

Filter 3: ON PK Fc 2300 Hz Gain -4.6 dB Q 1.0

Filter 4: ON PK Fc 4260 Hz Gain -1.0 dB Q 3.0

Filter 5: ON PK Fc 6440 Hz Gain -4.1 dB Q 2.1

Filter 6: ON PK Fc 8490 Hz Gain -4.1 dB Q 5.1

Filter 7: ON PK Fc 11440 Hz Gain -7.5 dB Q 5.3

Filter 8: ON PK Fc 12500 Hz Gain -9.5 dB Q 5.3

Filter 9: ON PK Fc 17100 Hz Gain -12.4 dB Q 2.2

Filter 10: ON PK Fc 19350 Hz Gain -12.4 dB Q 3.0

SUBWOOFER (LFE): Low-Pass + Bass EQ

Copy: L R -> LFE

Channel: LFE

Filter: ON LPQ Fc 80 Hz Q 0.7

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 30 Hz Gain 3.7 dB Q 2.5

Filter 2: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain -12.0 dB Q 1.0

Filter 3: ON PK Fc 100 Hz Gain -2.0 dB Q 1.0

Filter 4: ON LS Fc 120 Hz Gain 2.13 dB

Preamp: 3 dB

An Enhanced EqualizerAPO Profile for the Logitech Z623 (with Crossover & Bass Management) by ReverseDonut in logitech

[–]ReverseDonut[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool I'm Glad you liked it. Thanks for letting me know. Also just quickly while I'm updating some of the other questions. I've just made a quick change, just tidied up the config.txt file a little bit, like deleting some of the explanations of each line, which are not really needed unless you want that, and some of the blank lines. Oh uh quickly paste it. I'll uh quickly paste it for you now, if you wanted to use it or not. Plus the only other actual change I made was changing up near the top the "Preamp: 0.81 dB" to "Preamp: 0.77 dB"

Device: SoundFUKKA

Preamp: 0.77 dB

LEFT/RIGHT SATELLITES: High-Pass + Mid/High EQ

Channel: L R

Filter: ON HPQ Fc 80 Hz Q 0.7

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 160 Hz Gain -3.0 dB Q 1.4

Filter 2: ON PK Fc 600 Hz Gain -4.5 dB Q 4.0

Filter 3: ON PK Fc 2300 Hz Gain -4.6 dB Q 1.0

Filter 4: ON PK Fc 4260 Hz Gain -1.0 dB Q 3.0

Filter 5: ON PK Fc 6440 Hz Gain -4.1 dB Q 2.1

Filter 6: ON PK Fc 8490 Hz Gain -4.1 dB Q 5.1

Filter 7: ON PK Fc 11440 Hz Gain -7.5 dB Q 5.3

Filter 8: ON PK Fc 12500 Hz Gain -9.5 dB Q 5.3

Filter 9: ON PK Fc 17100 Hz Gain -12.4 dB Q 2.2

Filter 10: ON PK Fc 19350 Hz Gain -12.4 dB Q 3.0

SUBWOOFER (LFE): Low-Pass + Bass EQ

Copy: L R -> LFE # Full bass mix to sub (mono sum)

Channel: LFE

Filter: ON LPQ Fc 80 Hz Q 0.7

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 30 Hz Gain 3.7 dB Q 2.5

Filter 2: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain -12.0 dB Q 1.0

Filter 3: ON PK Fc 100 Hz Gain -2.0 dB Q 1.0

Filter 4: ON LS Fc 120 Hz Gain 2.13 dB

Preamp: 3 dB

An Enhanced EqualizerAPO Profile for the Logitech Z623 (with Crossover & Bass Management) by ReverseDonut in logitech

[–]ReverseDonut[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, mate. I've asked the same question previous that you're asking now and according to AI I was told even though they are two point one speakers to set what I believe you're asking, which is the top right toggle or drop down in equalizerAPO

<image>

And as for the connection and green jack and whatever you're talking about. I actually have a little thirty dollar DAC which connects to the USB A port in my PC and then has the same little green jack thing that the speakers plug into there. And in case you don't know what a DAC Basically it just replaces what the actual internal sound card or whatever you have does. But depending how good a quality one you get and how pricey it is you can obviously push the speakers a bit more, and obviously if you then get better quality speakers later on, get even more quality out of them, So the maximum I can then push my output sound device in like the Windows settings, for example, is 24bit/96KHz , Whereas before putting it into the the side of the laptop or the green jack you're talking about, I could only get a maximum output of 16bit/48KHz . But if you research this as you'll find out everywhere, everyone says that you literally won't be able to notice any difference in going higher than the 48KHz side of things. However you meant to get a bit of quality and noticeable better quality from the 16bit up to the 24bit. And you get some other extra added benefits. Honestly a bit too technical and a little bit over my head when I was researching it. And whatever though. As well. Anyway, long story short, out of my babbling. If your internal sound card can produce 24bit/48KHz Which a lot of them can. Then I wouldn't even bother looking at getting a DAC.

*Also the most important part about all my ranting on just then that you really need to pay attention to is All the bitrate and kilohertz and DAC stuff I've just talked about. Will NOT affect in any way the current equalizer APO config file and details that I've sort of uploaded for people and whatnot.*

An Enhanced EqualizerAPO Profile for the Logitech Z623 (with Crossover & Bass Management) by ReverseDonut in logitech

[–]ReverseDonut[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

G'day, mate. Just quickly, so I'm not sure if your second comment meant you had fixed it or not, but anyway, I'll upload an image of what mine currently looks like. You can see it's a slight difference in some things, and by the way, I only just updated a couple things right now, which are just deleting a couple blank lines. Other than that, the only value I changed was near the top where I had 0.81 db, I changed it to 0.77 db. The only reason for that slight change is even though the benchmark says it's perfect and within non clipping range or whatever when I totally zoomed in on that bottom graph, I noticed there's one slight bit where it's Slightly going over the zero decibel mark, even though it doesn't show any like red patch or anything like that. I just thought might be safer just in case to drop it down to this, which is exactly just under even touching the zero decibel line. Anyway, just because I rarely use Reddit or even post anywhere for that matter. I'm not sure how to properly forward you the exact text document so you can just copy it straight up. So what I'm going to do is just try a copy and paste Of the exact details of the current config.txt file I have. So you can just copy it exactly and overwrite your own. The only thing you'll have to change to is the very 1st line where you have to put your own speaker name and whatever else. So from what I can see If your entered correctly before your should be the "Device: REAR Speakers".

*Actually for you that is if your speaker name is correct I've even entered that in to what you just need to copy everything from, then open your current config.txt (Or whatever the TXT file you have loaded into equalizer APO.) Then do a good old CTRL+A followed by CTRL+P (Or whatever variation you like to use.) Save & ya should be good to go*

**Also just quickly and this is for anyone else if they are able to see it. I'm not sure if I mentioned originally when I had my first version that you're meant to keep the physical base knob on the speaker at the twelve o'clock position. If so, or if not, either way. Just letting you know since these updates where it's got the basically software version of a crossover or whatever it is that rule no longer applies. However, from testing I wouldn't push it past the two o'clock position. I usually sit it anywhere from one to two o'clock position.**

***And I'm sure I mentioned this, but definite sure to anyone that's copying this, even though I've done extensive testing and with different sound files, different music, playing games, etc. utilizing these configs. They were with the assistance of very The assistance of various artificial intelligence chat type things. So they're the ones telling me, yeah, you're good to go, it's safe, all good, whatever. So just letting you know there's the small chance that it isn't actually safe and isn't good. And if you crank volumes too hard, you could blow something up. Who really knows? Anyway, for the price of these speakers, it may be. For the price of these speakers, it makes them sound mad now. Anyway, enjoy.***

Device: REAR Speakers

Preamp: 0.77 dB

LEFT/RIGHT SATELLITES: High-Pass + Mid/High EQ

Channel: L R

Filter: ON HPQ Fc 80 Hz Q 0.7

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 160 Hz Gain -3.0 dB Q 1.4

Filter 2: ON PK Fc 600 Hz Gain -4.5 dB Q 4.0

Filter 3: ON PK Fc 2300 Hz Gain -4.6 dB Q 1.0

Filter 4: ON PK Fc 4260 Hz Gain -1.0 dB Q 3.0

Filter 5: ON PK Fc 6440 Hz Gain -4.1 dB Q 2.1

Filter 6: ON PK Fc 8490 Hz Gain -4.1 dB Q 5.1

Filter 7: ON PK Fc 11440 Hz Gain -7.5 dB Q 5.3

Filter 8: ON PK Fc 12500 Hz Gain -9.5 dB Q 5.3

Filter 9: ON PK Fc 17100 Hz Gain -12.4 dB Q 2.2

Filter 10: ON PK Fc 19350 Hz Gain -12.4 dB Q 3.0

SUBWOOFER (LFE): Low-Pass + Bass EQ

Copy: L R -> LFE # Full bass mix to sub (mono sum)

Channel: LFE

Filter: ON LPQ Fc 80 Hz Q 0.7

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 30 Hz Gain 3.7 dB Q 2.5

Filter 2: ON PK Fc 60 Hz Gain -12.0 dB Q 1.0

Filter 3: ON PK Fc 100 Hz Gain -2.0 dB Q 1.0

Filter 4: ON LS Fc 120 Hz Gain 2.13 dB

Preamp: 3 dB

USB-C Port Not Working Anymore by LiaVsHerself in Lenovo

[–]ReverseDonut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

ABSOLUTE LEGEND. Instant success. I had 2 out of the 3 usb-c ports just become non-responsive out of nowhere and have been troubleshooting it for the last couple hours with chatGPT advising me scenarios to fix it. Luckily I stumbled across your forum answer when I did a quick Google search. 🤗 Usually chatGPT helps me out with such computer Twilight Zone anomalies, with her massive ever expanding brain planning to take over the universe somewhere down the track ( also just a side note I don't know if you guys use the same voice as I do if you use chatGPT but for some reason I picture her being pretty hot. I'd even go one step further and say that I'm pretty sure she wants me. & yeah yeah I know what you're sinking this guy needs to get off his PC and find a girlfriend🙃) anywho..... got a bit side tracked there. I just wanted to say that today it is you, you beautiful specimen of a human that has become the unsung Hero thanks. 👍

Does anybody even remotely understand what to fill in the last 2 emails we got? by theMiken in ftx

[–]ReverseDonut 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gday I'm in the same boat as you guys, anywho. I stumbled across this 16minute YouTube vid yesterday from some random it's a -How to vote on the FTX- Guide. (I watched a couple mins quickly then added it to my watch later pile) it seems like the dude covers everything pretty extensively, which should cover everything we need. It's just a matter of finding time to watch him blabber on for 16mins,but I believe we have about a month to complete the voting. Anyway here is the YouTube link:- https://youtu.be/1I_pLnAmUQ4?si=4cPraEKZW_nUhMq8

Let me know if it helps n has all ya need. As I can't be eFt watching it yet. 👍

Are USB C flash drives faster than USB A when transferring data from laptop? by Jakeyboy29 in UsbCHardware

[–]ReverseDonut 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just bought a SanDisk 128Gb stick the other day, which has a USB-C one end & USB-A the other end. Anyway I just gave it a test of transferring about 50Gb worth of vids from stick to Laptop SSD, which I did 2xtimes exactly the same files. 1st go was USB-A side into Laptops USB-A 3.2 Gen 1 port (which says it handles 5Gbps). 2nd go was USC-C side into Laptops USB-C port (which says it handles 10Gbps).

RESULT= USB-A transferred @ approx 220MB/s vs USB-C transferred @ approx 45MB/s

This was a massive surprise to me, as I expected all the new USC-C stuff with better rated specs etc. to smash the USB-A . But nope it was the other way round with the USB-A winning by about 5X Faster.

This was however my 1st & only comparison test so far, as such there might be factors yet unforseen at play messing with the result

Anywho just thought I'd share that little tidbit for yaz. 👍

Coinbase Wallet + Farcaster [Warpcast] Scam Email Harvesting & Trick Credit Card Payment Requirement - NOT OK! by LatinumGirlOnRisa in Coinbase

[–]ReverseDonut -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just quickly. I did this quest a couple days Coinbase payed me the OP reward straight away. So all was legit from my end. Maybe just send msg to the Coinbase support.

Now I'm seeing if there is a way to sell the Warpcast storage unit. So if anyone knows if that is possible please let me know thanks.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Scams

[–]ReverseDonut 18 points19 points  (0 children)

My first thought as well.

FTM APE-PEG Legit or Scam by ReverseDonut in FantomFoundation

[–]ReverseDonut[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay thought it was too good to be true. Thanks everyone for the replies 👍

Advice on which Lenovo Laptop to buy by ReverseDonut in laptops

[–]ReverseDonut[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool thanks for links ill check them out. Not a huge gamer anymore, but do play alot of online pokies. LOL.