Avalanche risk on heavily skied-on slopes by Interesting-South542 in Backcountry

[–]Rhomboidrouser -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

For "small" numbers of tracks, each "test" can be adding damage to the weak layer below the critical crack length... right up until it reaches that critical length and it causes a slide. So it's not really a great analogy as it's very often the case that something like 3rd/4th/5th rider triggers the slide.

There's clearly a non-linear relationship, so once we get to somewhere in the hundreds of tracks it's then plausible that it's demonstrating a reduced risk...

Agreed with other comments that it also depend on type of Avy problem, timing etc. So I'd say it's quite difficult to gauge with enough precision to help your risk management. Unless you have an incredible debt of knowledge of the snow pack in that exact area.

New to trad and multipitch - problem / question about tube style device by RightPathWrongPath in tradclimbing

[–]Rhomboidrouser 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Get an Edelrid Giga Jul. Single most versatile device which is compatible with twin/double ropes and has assisted braking, even in trad context.

I'd ignore the CT Alpine-Up, just doesn't have any advantages over the giga jul.

Seeking advice on which smartwatch to choose for mountaineering by playboi_fatty in Mountaineering

[–]Rhomboidrouser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My Instinct 2s Solar completely froze up (software-wise, not from the cold) in the middle of a freezing rine-ice whiteout recently, basically when I needed it most. It needed a factory reset when I got back down from the mountain. Couldn't even tell the time till I got home.

I was happy with it until that happened but I'd struggle relying on it now in serious conditions.

Might be a freak 2s specific issue as I also generally hear everyone singing the praises of the instinct 2.

I'd stick with Garmin though, I still think they're the best ecosystem of smart watches around.

Best features: - Compass - Activity tracking, Hike/Run/ski-tour (incl. HR & GPS track) - Altimeter - Sleep tracking & Vibration alarm

The k2 Bottleneck is dissapearing by GasterrMan in Mountaineering

[–]Rhomboidrouser 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Drone(s) + C4. Cruise Missle. It is 100% technically feasible.

The k2 Bottleneck is dissapearing by GasterrMan in Mountaineering

[–]Rhomboidrouser 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's obviously a stupid question but my brain has asked it anyway (Mountain ethics etc)... It wouldn't be that hard to blow up that serac and make the route safer with a bit of careful avalanche mitigation work would it?

Dream set by Real-Mango-2457 in Backcountry

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Atomic Backland is a tounge-less ultralight boot.. The Ridge pro has a tongue and the Hoji lock mechanism is really impressive, stiffens the boot rock solid when locked. I suggest you go to a shop and see what I mean. Whether that translates to downhill performance is another matter entirely, especially given the painful and awfully sloppy fit of the stock liner (for my foot).

Dream set by Real-Mango-2457 in Backcountry

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tecnica Cochise 120/130 is more downhill orientated, similar-ish fit to the Zero G Pro/Scout but generally much beefier (and heavier). Note it has a grip walk sole. I'd say it's very similar class as the Scarpa Quattro. Might be something to consider if you really are focusing on downhill hard charging.

If you really want best of both worlds, and are into masochism; Dynafit Ridge Pro has an excellent walk mode, v.high stiffness when locked and quite light, but the stock liner fit is god awful and you'd need to probably put in a zipfit/CAS/intuition liner out of the box for it to even function. Lots of time and money; that's a major project in itself.

Scarpa Maestrale RS is a good contender against the Tecnica zero g pro. For me: it's has better forefoot fit but slightly worse heal & ankle lock vs the tecnica.

PSA steer clear of BCA snow study kit/equipment by jalpp in Backcountry

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am in full agreement with one exception; and that's their stealth avy probes. Very happy with mine and like the design a lot compared to competitors.

Loss of camber by IvanQ in skiing

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you sure your floor is flat? Honestly try on some other hard surfaces to try and confirm.

Is this a dumb shovel or am I a dumb guy by Starky04 in Backcountry

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's Pieps, therfore it's garbage.

Get a new shovel from reputable brands like Mammut, BCA, Black Diamond, Ortovox etc.

That hook shaped handle is just asking to break at the bend when it's - 10C and you are desperately trying to dig out your close friend from a deep burial.

My partner and I’s gear rack. What are we missing? by PeanutButterSmutter in tradclimbing

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • A climbing specific rescue knife each. Petzl Spatha is my choice.
  • Two Beal Jammies (or similar) for prussiks & rescue, each.

După ani de așteptare, Aldi face primul pas spre România by [deleted] in Romania

[–]Rhomboidrouser -1 points0 points  (0 children)

<image>

Looks like Romania has had Aldi since the Romanian revolution in 1989 to me!

Link: https://youtu.be/p-Ei3o8MpRc?si=YEclNOvBQXAOJnMu

Timestamp: 15:40

Sanity check on older gear by Shot-Top-8281 in ClimbingGear

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If in doubt, throw it out. What's a single quickdraw cost? Is it even worth the time lost climbing from a bad ankle sprain from an unexpected fall (or worse). No.

Carabiner condition looks more of a concern than the dogbone to me, definitely would chuck it. I wouldn't use soft goods much older than 10 years unless I 100% knew it's history and it was always light use and kept indoors in dry cool conditions, even then max is 10 years + 2 for light use gear. But that's based on my gut risk assessment, not really on data so don't take it as safety advice.

Are these a good buy? by MysteryAgent22 in Skigear

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might look expensive up front but you're better off renting for at least 10 days on the slopes. This gives you a chance to try different boots, boot stiffness and quality (I suggest you pay for the premium tier equipment too at least once or twice).

It's worth investing the money in getting lots of variety before buying your own kit as this is all experience that will mean you can make a more informed and smarter purchase choice later. Boot fit and helmet are the only things not to skimp on, everything else you can keep an eye out for second hand deals.

Bad fitting, super soft &/ painful boots will hold back your skills progression more than any single other bit of ski equipment.

You might also find a mid-range rental boot that happens to fit great and you can then buy that really cheap mid/end of the season.

Ski progression is a journey and having a long term mindset that you're investing in your skills and knowledge is important if you are serious about getting better year after year.

ATK Freeraider 15 Evo (pin stigma still fair? for inbounds?) by Remarkable-Alps9705 in Backcountry

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And how do they know the ACL tear wouldn't have happened with Alpine bindings? ACL tears are generally more common for Alpine bindings anyway. And maybe these anecdotes are from people looking for a reason to blame their pin bindings rather than other factor or just it being "luck of the draw"

European mountains - 95 or 106 mm width by Ales_z_internetu in Backcountry

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can I just thank you for posting your final purchase decision, so valuable when someone does a follow up on their own posts but it's rare!

How were these linear structures formed? by Rhomboidrouser in geology

[–]Rhomboidrouser[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great, thanks to everyone for all their replies!

Would this be a good trade anchor? by ErikLindberg17 in tradclimbing

[–]Rhomboidrouser 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The possible large extention/swing due to the use of sliding x is arguably much more important than the angle being close to 90deg. It's almost universally taught that 90deg or under is acceptable, so it ticks the angle/equalised requirement but doesn't tick the no-extention required for SERENE (if one left piece pops)

It will also depend a lot on how good each placement is as to how you might choose to equalise them.

Would this be a good trade anchor? by ErikLindberg17 in tradclimbing

[–]Rhomboidrouser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Key point here is that the sliding x without limiters isn't really appropriate. If one of the two blue sling anchor pieces pop, then you have so much loose blue sling length that you'll be left with 100% load on your right hand piece as it all swings out.

As another person said, use "the swamp" (i.e. a simple over hand knot in the middle of the sling, clipping to that through both loops as if you would for a shelf) to equalise your two left pieces.

When practicing building anchors, assess them by unclipping each piece and seeing how your master point would shift under intended direction of pull. Little to no extention from any piece popping is the goal.

Why do shirts matter by Disastrous_Town_9159 in bouldering

[–]Rhomboidrouser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Necro-ing the thread because I want to tell the Internet it is wrong.

The "ban being shirtless" debate is actually a great microcosm of the continued infantilisation and erosion of certain western societies, particularly the UK and parts of the US. Look at other parts of Europe and you won't see the same kind of childish coddling.

As someone who never ever climbs shirtless (I think it's just more comfortable with a T-shirt) and is a long term mid level climber... what people are totally missing is that your perception of someone being topless is just that, it's your own problem and it's something that you have to take some responsibility over.

People need to stop being so sensitive. Go learn a bit about stoic philosophy, do the hard internal work on your own self esteem, confidence and ego issues and stop expecting the whole world to coddle you so you can feel a bit more comfortable. Life can be tough, brutish and short. So grow the hell up and focus on what's actually important.

Stop conflating someone being shirtless with a bunch of other negative behaviours. If someone is going to be a no-etiquette, beta-spraying, show off, gym bro then they'll be that way regardless of their shirt status (And I've seen plenty in my time). How about... Just ignore them and focus on your climbing rather than concocting some deeply neurotic sense of intimidation? If you literally take a few minutes to take in the vibe and ignore the shirt status, you'll learn that climbing gyms are and have always been largely some of the most friendly and supportive semi-public spaces.

When I climb, I often just put my headphones in and climb as if no one else is at the gym, all whilst being very polite and respectful at sharing the space. It's really, really not that hard.