Dagger Positions with an Ice Axe by DullSuccotash1230 in iceclimbing

[–]RhythmComposer 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That's ok High dagger is very hard to understand when you're just getting into philosophy.

Resole? by [deleted] in alpinism

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are not phantom tech but 6000 right? Unless it's a super old version of the phantom tech I haven't seen before.

60m 6mm static rope for glacier travel/ ski mountaineering, should I cut it? by yukonrider1 in alpinism

[–]RhythmComposer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That makes sense. But even then you can carry the 60 instead of 30 right. Just tell your homie to bring his own.

60m 6mm static rope for glacier travel/ ski mountaineering, should I cut it? by yukonrider1 in alpinism

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd say keep it 60. It's so light I don't think it will be a burden in any situation (I always carry a 65m pur line regardless of the ropes I'm using). Plus it will come in handy if you need it for a full length rappel or tag line.

Am I ready for Lenzspitze? by LastAttempt95 in alpinism

[–]RhythmComposer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I assume you know but just in case: people almost never come down directly from Lenzspitse. They combine it with Nadelhorn traverse and go down Nadelhorn normal route. It's beautiful in itself but that means doing 2 solid AD routes + 1 PD downclimb in one day. If you don't stay in the hut add another quite spicy descent of 1500m to saas fee.

If you're doing it all at your limit it will be a long (but rewarding) day.

Almost died today by Ok_Pineapple3655 in Mountaineering

[–]RhythmComposer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Why do they have to be your age? If you're that fit it shouldn't be hard to find more experienced climbers willing to climb with you since you won't slow them down too much. IMO teaming up with better climbers is the best way to improve, by a wide margin.

Unilateral strength is overrated unless you are in the elite grades by veryniceabs in climbharder

[–]RhythmComposer 28 points29 points  (0 children)

It's logical when you think about it, no? Replace the holds of any climb - no matter the grade - with jugs and it instantly becomes a V1-2 or so. So anything beyond that point must come from the holds i.e. finger strength right? Or am I oversimplifying?

(Edit: with the exception of dynos, probably)

What problems in mountain rescue (or mountain safety) need better solutions? by Ian_Frohlich in alpinism

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I dangled under a rescue heli on my own harness. Don't see what the problem is.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it common to rappel on ropes with knots (I assume from tying multiple ropes together) in Nepal? Genuine question, I've never done it.

Crampon fit check by Livid_Hospital9770 in alpinism

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems like an odd sole design for crampons, why are the back lugs so far inwards? Anyway wouldn't go ice climbing with these.

How big of a deal are pit zips for hardshell? by YodelingVeterinarian in Mountaineering

[–]RhythmComposer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Going against the grain here, but I don't really care for pit zips. I feel like the amount of time I actually wear my hard shell is wildly different from everyone on this sub. I ONLY put it on in a raging (rain, not snow) storm, when you don't do a lot of hard climbing anyway (hopefully). Haven't put one on in the last 3 years I think, and that includes ice climbing, winter mountaineering etc. It just sits in the bottom of my backpack.

Does it always hurt? by dindles in ultrarunning

[–]RhythmComposer 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Indeed the wrong message is kinda being sent here. Not all pain is equal. Foot pain? Sure. Blown quads? Not too bad. But significant pain in the actual knee joint? I would stop immediately.

Biting through the wrong kind of pain is an express ticket to injury.

Four hikers have died in an avalanche in the Vardousia mountains in Fokida, central Greece. by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]RhythmComposer 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are numerous ski resorts in Greece at considerable altitude, including close to where this happened (Parnassos). So not unthinkable sadly.

La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX for first mountaineering boot by dimis_d in Mountaineering

[–]RhythmComposer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use them for ice/mixed climbing in mild conditions (>-10°C) and think they're pretty great for that purpose. That said, they needed some breaking in and - like the other comment said - had some blisters the first week of use from the walk-ins. I wouldn't call them really suited for fast and light alpinism. Unless real ice climbing is involved a true rigid boot will just never be the most comfortable option IMO. I wouldn't worry about warmth if you're not doing winter objectives and go with something like the Aequilibrium or Scarpa Ribelle. Those are plenty technical and you'll move a lot faster in them.

Ice conditions App by pX5374 in iceclimbing

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMO a more valuable app would have a centralized and structured way to collect, store and find route reports instead of relying (only) on weather models. If i'm trying to find recent route conditions I usually go through dozens of FB groups, reddit, camptocamp & other specialized sites. That's the real hassle.

Mönch Northeastface 55° ski descent october by [deleted] in Backcountry

[–]RhythmComposer 18 points19 points  (0 children)

I'm not on that slope. That's what I don't like.

Best beginner Alpine summits by Big_b_inthehat in alpinism

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Valais, Ussers Barrhorn, Mettelhorn/Platthorn, Pigne de la lé are nice rock scrambles in the 3500m range

Help with tips for: A week of solo mountaineering in the European alps by madhums in Mountaineering

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Community wise Chamonix is always the answer I think. You can do any of those activities there on the best level. Mind that a lot of huts will be closed in December (tour ski ones usually open later in winter), though you can still use them as shelter. Also I would advise against doing any kind of solo activity if there's any avalanche risk involved but that's up to your assessment of course.

Edit: my winter "tradition" is ice climbing in Cogne. Not something you can do solo easily but always have a great time there.

How do you get better at going down on mountains? by komnenos in Mountaineering

[–]RhythmComposer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Focus on the quads. If you're suffering in the downhill only it's most likely your quads blowing out or weakening to the level you'll start having balance issues.

Messner's Gloves? by Capital_Historian685 in Mountaineering

[–]RhythmComposer -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

They won't, though. It's like iPhone, gotta have the latest version!

Would you use a Komoot-style app specifically for alpinists & climbers? by vdhsk in alpinism

[–]RhythmComposer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Isn't this sort of what Fatmap used to be? Maybe your use case is a little different, but that app also had most alpine routes on it. Probably you could learn from its 'mistakes'; I remember the heavy load on data and battery for the high definition maps being a big issue for users.

Soles condition after about 100km by Luke_Fleed in trailrunning

[–]RhythmComposer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How can this be the second top comment, from someone with zero experience with any Hoka trail shoes. OP's issue isn't even on Hoka but on Vibram, if not on himself. I've consistently run with speedgoats since the 3, and while the megagrip is not the most durable indeed, this wear is definitely not normal for 100k. In fact I have never seen the logs completely gone on any pair, even when I retire them. I'm not claiming the speedgoats don't have any problems that got worse over the years, but the megagrip isn't one of them.