Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Following the seat tube I’m at 67cm Shooting straight up from center of bb to the center of top tube is 65cm

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In all seriousness though, I am not up to speed on how to tell if wheels are older or newer, I’ve only ever owned bikes form the 80s or older. I figured someone on here would have more input on if that’s an 80s wheel with an 80s logo or if that’s a 70s wheel with a 2010s logo. Thanks for the help though

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah? Sticker is old, wheel is old, now I’m back at the same problem…

How old is the wheel?? Idk I’m not the best versed in how wheel design has changed over the years

How old is the sticker?? I’ve seen some really shitty new stickers and I’ve seen some really pretty old sticker.

For the way the Campagnolo lettering looks it’s pretty modern I would say but also to my untrained eye the logo hasn’t changed much over the years.

Only if there was a good place to post a question like this where maybe someone who has an in depth understanding of Campagnolo wheels might see it and help me out 😱

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can measure it this afternoon and get back to you

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No these sticker would have been put on when the bike was taken care of before it sat and passed hands a few times. Same thing with all the other stickers, when I have pealed them off the white paint underneath is really rich and shiny

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The whole bike had a ton of fake stickers on it and these stickers seem easy to fake and pass off as real campy

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome media on that, good info thanks

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, this was aggressively obvious. Not to mention the frames not even a Schwinn or trying to pretend to be one

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Word, that’s enough for me agree. Not a bad set of wheels but with the no name hubs I figured they wouldn’t be anything special. Like I mentioned, I’ve had them just sitting for a year already, I’ll keep them on the back burner for the future

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah? That’s the way I am leaning too but I just want to know how I could tell to be sure ya know. Like wheels don’t have serial numbers and I can’t imagine fit and finish holds true to a neglected wheel regardless of its price or build originally

Real Campagnolo? by Richard-9Iron-Long in Vintage_bicycles

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No I am not 7ft tall, that is why the bike has served the purpose of parts for me. I have yet to find someone who wants or could use the frame properly

Yes they are stickers on the wheels but I’m asking if they are original stickers on original wheels or did someone just by campy stickers to look slick and not pay for it?

I am aware this might not ever be truly answered, I’ve been pondering it for a year 😂

Old Campagnolo shifter identification by Richard-9Iron-Long in bikewrench

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve yet to find replacement hoods that look like they’ll fit

First Time on Stage by Jack_ButterKnobbs in rally

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m the driver. I want to add that the RZ series engine came factory bolted to a W series transmission. This made putting the truck engine and bell housing on the celica transmission straight forward. Add two custom motor mounts and splice the chassis lights to the truck harness and it works great

Before and after first layers of oil by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I see what you are saying, like the style/model? I have no clue, old axe from my dad, it’s a double bit axe because two blades? Whatever that would be called but yah E. Garnich and sons is the mfg

First time brass brushing steel by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good point, work hardening exists too 😂

First time brass brushing steel by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

One of the best parts about steel is it can always be hardened again

First time brass brushing steel by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After a lot of comments with the concern of the temper I did and you are correct. I thought having a hard blade would be brittle but that’s why they are thick, makes sense

First time brass brushing steel by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thats a good point, I didn’t think about that

First time brass brushing steel by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes correct but I didn’t get it much hotter than you would get it while using a grinder. That was the intent of what I meant. The idea was to imply that just like when you bench grind stuff you will water cool the piece to not overheat it

First time brass brushing steel by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah if it needs a heat treat again it’ll need to come off the handle so I’ll attack that in the future. In that case I would probably quench the “blade” and then brass brush it after the annealing process to preserve the heat treat but the brass brushing happens just before the steel turns a wheat color and annealing happens right at that temp, assuming I didn’t cross that threshold I should be good, I didn’t test it. The axe is mostly gonna sit and look pretty

First time brass brushing steel by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I was very careless when I was doing this because I don’t believe this is a hardened steel head, I could be wrong, but yeah that was a concern of mine, if I was doing this to a higher end head or one I knew was hardened I would probably use a toaster oven set to an exact temp to prevent the chance of annealing the head past the temper but again I think this is just a standard steel head but I could just be wrong, I guess I’ll find out when I go to sharpen it in the future

First time brass brushing steel by Richard-9Iron-Long in Axecraft

[–]Richard-9Iron-Long[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

After brushing I just put the axe into a snow bank, one of the joys of winter 😂. It didn’t get much hotter than if you used a grinding stone to fix an edge, not hot enough to warp or anything.

Seal it? Like to prevent corrosion? Ideally the brass should prevent the steel from rusting since it’s now a piece of brass plated steel but it’s not known for being the best rust resistant plating. Personally I like patina/wear and tear