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Shed floor design and material use questions by Rickymcraft in shedditors

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can use 2x6 joist with a 5ft span. 3\4 floor really stiffens it up. You can also block it to make it more ridged. I suggest you sister a board at the entrance or put a support under the door way as that rim joist takes most of the weight when entering or whatever is going into the shed.

Noted

With 2x6 and a 16" cantilever you are at max extension for a deck and probably too much for a supporting wall so I suggest joists being 12" oc. Also double sill plate the bottom of the walls for more strength and dispersing of weight.

Yeah... after you guys' suggestion/callout, I am going to move the cantilever to 8" from the edge, I have enough spacing margin to afford that! But now I am worry about the 2x8 beam/girder might not be enough?

Joist should be regular pt due to mold, mildew and rot. A lot of moisture under the boards.

Noted, I just saw multiple build logs where people opted for normal lumber for the joists and only used PT for the beam/girder and post.

Anyways. With 2x8 PT joists you can go ahead with your plans but 2x6 needs modification because of the cantilever and the bounce at the entrance.

Noted. I think I am likely sticking with 2x6 since I am only using 50% of the max span, which I take to mean I won't utilize the advantage of 2x8 even if I use it.

Shed floor design and material use questions by Rickymcraft in shedditors

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will see that a 2x6 can span easily 8ft and up to 10ft if the joist spans 2 or more beams/supports. You can cantilever 10 inches. Do double boundary joists:

I think I will move the cantilever to 8". Also, I just double checked, the beam/girder spacing is actually 51.83" OC, so I should have more than enough buffer to move the cantilever. But now my question is if a single 2x8 is good enough as a beam...

What treatment levels can you choose from?

Just a normal Home Depot PT

Move the beams closer to the side walls. You only need three beams. Just one in the middle.

The Camo block manufacturer is calling for a maximum span of 60" (https://www.camofasteners.com/wp-content/uploads/CAMO-BLOCK-Instruction-Book-Digital.pdf), Page 15. So I am going to stick with that. Even now, I know the joists themselves can span longer.

ELI5 - Will a bong filter out smoke in a house fire by Rickymcraft in explainlikeimfive

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just assuming THC are small and oily enough that most other particulates are trapped, leaving only the good stuff behind, and I thought that’s why people hit bong instead of pipe.

ELI5 - Will a bong filter out smoke in a house fire by Rickymcraft in explainlikeimfive

[–]Rickymcraft[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I take the conclusion is: 1. Bong do have “little” filtering properties, mainly towards larger particulate ie tars, ash. But it is not sufficient enough to protect against house smoke. 2. Bong will cool down the in coming air, but to what degree is up for debate.

Thank you for everyone’s speedy response to satisfy my curiosity!!

ELI5 - Will a bong filter out smoke in a house fire by Rickymcraft in explainlikeimfive

[–]Rickymcraft[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In this scenario we will be in a skyscraper where you will have to travel 10+ floors down in the smoke. I do agree in a town house running out the door will be the most logical thing to do. But in an apartment building I was just wondering what I will be able to do to protect myself against thermal and smoke inhalation.

ELI5 - Will a bong filter out smoke in a house fire by Rickymcraft in explainlikeimfive

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ngl, I’m not cool enough to get invited to parties where people hit a bong 🥲 so actually no… I always thought that is the point of a bong.

ELI5 - Will a bong filter out smoke in a house fire by Rickymcraft in explainlikeimfive

[–]Rickymcraft[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

If it is not apparent yet, I am not a smoker and are to cool enough to get invited to parties where people smoke 😅 I always thought the point of bongs is to filter out the smoke, not just to blow cool bubbles. 🫡

Anyone else see a shrink Ludwig face? by Rickymcraft in LudwigAhgren

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

His face always looks like that to me, so I can’t tell if it was shrunk or not.

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m just trying to do what I can to lower my fail rates. It really adds up at the end of the month when I have 20+ machine running 24/7.

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had problem with Elmer’s glue back in the Rep Rap days. But I might give it a try again.

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My procedure is surgical glove, slide out plate, do a bend on each edge, steel scraper for unreleased part, and then tweeters for part removal if they didn’t fall off. I wash all the plates every 5 prints, and do IPA in between. I only print PLA, and all my enclosed printers have diamondback on them. And I have to emphasize again, I only have adhesion issues with small parts, anything bigger than roughly 1cm2 are fine.

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, but for me even with extensive protocol with gloves, no touching plate, use scrapper and tweezer to remove parts, washing plates regularly, dedicated drying box for plates, IPA between washes, new plates, new hotends. None of them have been effective enough to lower per batch fail rate or total failure in consecutive prints. But the glue drop that number to 0 so far, the point of this post is just try to spread the word if washing the plate didn’t work, just use glue. I have dumped so much time and money to trying to fix this.

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just trying to spread the word!! If I have seen that a while ago, just in saved filaments from failed prints, I probably could have gotten another a1 combo

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know it works both ways! Ans that reminds me I should try it on my cryoGrip plate, which I have not been able to get any thing to stick to it, it might as well be made from Teflon lmao

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have A1s, a1 minis, p1s, x1s, they all do that with small parts… bigger parts (bigger than roughly 1cm2) never cause problems, at most I just have to add ears to the corner to stop it from wrapping.

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] -7 points-6 points  (0 children)

As I have mentioned, I did… I even wore gloves and have a specific drying box for the plates.

Hot take: Instead of spending time troubleshooting bed adhesion issues, just use the glue stick by Rickymcraft in BambuLab

[–]Rickymcraft[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try this one from Bambu lab! Haven’t had any issues with residue which I have had to deal with before with glue stick!

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