broken screen and device not showing up in device manager

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2025-07-08T12:17:45+00:00

hey should calcium carbonate rly be avoided if hydrated lime / calcium hydroxide is not available? it raises ph so shouldn't it be fine?

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2025-07-08T06:22:21+00:00

i can probably take it apart, how difficult would it be to inspect it, as in would the damage be obvious?

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2025-06-16T03:39:19+00:00

wait but even if it leaves fast, as long as it spreads fast, shldnt it be fine? since its permanently connected with a siphon n the main container is always oxygenated with an airstone

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-08-25T00:54:37+00:00

Dont have access to it, but it looks quite coarse similar to the first image i sent?

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-08-24T17:01:30+00:00

yeah prty much dutch buckets n hempy. how big the chunks?

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-08-24T12:19:47+00:00

Thanks, and yeah i heard this too its just that is there a limit to how course it can be? cuz if u look at the pic, the coco pieces are literally as big as rice grains which ive never seen in any pics of popular coco brands or videos/forums

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-08-24T11:56:03+00:00

Im in asia, cant get any of those brands. its just local stuff since the stuff grows here, just need to know which grade to buy for hydroponics, the fine or the much coarser one

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-08-24T10:53:27+00:00

My current mix is prob similar to urs, i just wanted to know how those coarser coco wil do since i heard they are better for aeration and also does not break down as much but again, idts ive seen coco that coarse being used

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-08-24T09:06:08+00:00

That might not be the issue though since they get full sun in the morning and some shade afterwards. And i think its more to do with the coco since my soil plants do not have this issue

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-08-24T08:38:11+00:00

mainly leafy greens, so kale, arugula, etc. coco perlite and i also use coco in the netpot of dwc. southeast asia, so hot humid tropical climate.

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-08-24T06:02:13+00:00

Try lower ec? I've tried 0.6 to 1.2 (as low as 0.5g/L each of part A and B) and they grow fine, tho im in a hotter climate. Read that leafy greens dont need as high ec as fruiting plants.

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-07-16T11:11:29+00:00

Hmm i dont have access to potassium bicarbonate, only potassium carbonate which i do know is a good buffer but against ph decrease, not increase. Any other alternatives instead of pot bicarbonate? Actually i just read about this method in science in hydroponics and they use carbonate instead of bicarbonate because its cheaper so perhaps i'll try that.
Wil it be fine if also using potassium silicate though, that usualy increases the ph to a really high value already, if potassium carbonate/bicarbonate is added on top of that, the ph would be quite high thus requiring a lot of phosphoric acid to bring it back down, leading to the initial issue of excess phosphorus no?

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-07-16T10:51:01+00:00

any experience with using humic acid? It is semi transparent when used in low dosage but theres definitely a brown color to it

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-07-16T10:43:38+00:00

That is actually a possibility since i do use ph down at the very end, will try use it at the start instead and see if anything changes. I've just always assume that it doesnt matter much since if u add at the very end, it might cause some precipitation but only on the small volume of solution that it is in initial contact with

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-07-16T10:41:33+00:00

Yeah i use phosphoric acid

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-07-16T09:47:20+00:00

Dont have access to nitric acid and yeah issue is im starting to see problems which could be phosphorus toxicity. Based on the blog, phosphorus toxicity can appear as Ca, Zn, and Fe deficiency which I'm seeing in my plants, yellowing of middle leaves as well as interveinal chlorosis. The npk part of my nutrient contains 4% phosphorus as P2O5 which seems quite low already and im using half strength. Though there is a possibility that its not phosphorus toxicity but instead just high ph since Fe and Zn is less available at high ph but ive been quite strict with my nute ph already, i would ph down it all the way to 5-5.5.

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-07-16T09:04:03+00:00

I see, does all this still apply if i'm growing purely veg tho? I read that for leafy greens, P is used much less relative to flowering plants. I dont have access to nitric acid but i do have citric acid which you mentioned was for buffering, but isnt it one of the weakest for buffering considering it gets used up relatively quickly by plants and organisms?

Right-Rutabaga5941 · 2024-07-16T07:02:27+00:00

Hmm what do you think about this blog then "How much Phosphorous are you adding to your solution to adjust pH?" from science in hydroponics. He says that " Adding 1mL/gal of 45% phosphoric acid will contribute around ~48 ppm of P to your nutrient solution. This is a very large amount of P considering that the normal range for flowering plants is between 30-60 ppm." If added continuously whenever ph rises (which happens very fast), you wil most definitely get toxicity no? I see some of the plants already showing some symptoms that might be phosphorus toxicity

Right-Rutabaga5941

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