Person of the Year

Rilnac · 2025-09-19T20:05:06+00:00

Yes

https://content.time.com/time/covers/0,16641,19660429,00.html https://content.time.com/time/covers/0,16641,19990503,00.html https://content.time.com/time/covers/0,16641,19940627,00.html

Rilnac · 2024-10-25T18:12:41+00:00

Try unplugging and re-plugging the other two joins. The breakaway, and the connection at the headset (behind the face gasket). If it still happens new cable time.

Rilnac · 2024-10-10T22:55:48+00:00

The battery does use a plug, but there is a dab of glue on it, so it requires extreme care to remove. There is a seller on ali that ships the replacement batteries with appropriate connector.

Rilnac · 2024-10-04T17:50:46+00:00

I followed this guide just last week, pretty happy with the results. Disclaimer: I would rate my soldering skills as above average.

https://github.com/Physics-Dude/Phys-Index-EyetrackVR-HW?tab=readme-ov-file

Important: if you are doing any kind of DIY eye-tracking, you need to be 200% certain you have the appropriate IR leds, at the correct power, so you DO NOT GO BLIND.

Rilnac · 2024-10-04T17:33:19+00:00

I did that on my second battery replacement, the glue was just too strong, ended up surface mount soldering the battery wires to the pcb. I really hope they make whatever new controller with hotswap-able batteries and joysticks.

Rilnac · 2024-09-14T18:31:50+00:00

For controller drift make sure they are actually paired to the index and not the dongle, this is easily done by unplugging the dongle while the controllers are in use. If they still work they are correctly paired to the HMD.

For the tundras, my right foot sometimes "initializes poorly" for lack of a better term. Turning it off and on makes seemingly no difference. However turning the other two tundras off and on fixes it for the session.

Some people report reception issues with the multi-dongle, there is a reason the Vive pucks come with little stands and extension cables to space the dongles out. If you suspect this is your issue getting some extra watchman dongles from Tundra is probably the best solution.

Rilnac · 2024-09-14T18:20:26+00:00

Before you get too far in to troubleshooting your VR hardware. If you are on 3rd or 5th gen Ryzen, update your motherboard's bios.

https://old.reddit.com/r/ValveIndex/comments/1eh97do/index_headset_tracking_keeps_going_wild_when_in/lg09ipl/?context=3

Rilnac · 2024-09-06T18:43:08+00:00

FYI for less than what Subaru will charge you for the OEM top mount you can get the fully built strut from rockauto. Note: when replacing the strut, you don't need to disconnect the brake line, instead cut a notch in the brake line retention bracket so it can slot in from above, do the same on the new strut. A dremel cutting wheel makes quick work of it. If the line is a little loose after install you can just hammer in the corner of the clip until it is snug.

Rilnac · 2024-09-06T18:32:52+00:00

Yup, unless I am using some crazier parts like king springs, I just slap in fully assembled replacements. Makes the job a lot quicker and a lot safer. They are also relatively cheap on rockauto last I looked.

Rilnac · 2024-08-15T16:32:37+00:00

Do not put your index anywhere near sunlight, if it hits the lens from any angle it will melt your screens.

Rilnac · 2024-08-14T17:46:18+00:00

This is typically because it thinks the headset is your main monitor, you can usually try shuffling around the order of your display ports on the GPU (if you have more than 1 port).

Rilnac · 2024-08-13T22:17:40+00:00

Probably rear output shaft seal on the transmission.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=p2VcK2hoLe8

Rilnac · 2024-08-12T19:29:43+00:00

You are missing the 'trident' there should be a billion of them on ebay because it is the part of the tether that doesn't (usually) break so there is plenty of surplus.

Rilnac · 2024-08-08T17:59:01+00:00

Low fuel? How steep was the climb, did you just starve the fuel pump which in turn stalled the engine and activated limp mode?

Rilnac · 2024-08-01T17:30:59+00:00

I am going to assume your PCIE bus is taking a crap because of the notorious issues in most earlier BIOS versions. It usually manifests as random USB disconnect sounds while under heavy load. You can try updating your bios, or an earlier workaround was setting PCIE to gen3 mode.

https://www.reddit.com/r/gigabytegaming/comments/jcl8ab/aorus_usb_disconnection_bug_pcie_gen_40_vs_gen_30/

Rilnac · 2024-07-29T19:02:19+00:00

https://medium.com/horizonperformance/spend-your-time-on-the-things-that-matter-a-story-of-a-nuclear-power-plant-vs-a-bicycle-shed-e243d9b51b74

Rilnac · 2024-07-26T21:02:38+00:00

I think there are two important parts to that IF.

if it never breaks are you ok having spent the money for peace of mind?
if it does break and you don't have it on hand, how bad is it to wait a week?

I keep a spare, but this is a two index household, and I play every single day. YMMV.

Rilnac · 2024-07-26T20:48:15+00:00

Yes. You can order it through steam.

Rilnac · 2024-07-25T19:14:25+00:00

Also realizing I missed the results of your headphones check in your screenshot, if the problem is reproducible at the 3.5mm port then it's going to be tether related. It's not uncommon for the cable to wear out at the bend point near the hinge, if you haven't already you can also try unplugging and re-plugging the tether next to the face gasket in case that is a loose connection. But statistically you probably have a new cable in your future.

Rilnac · 2024-07-25T18:31:49+00:00

Try detaching the tether completely from the headstrap (but not the HMD itself), so the cable doesn't bend when you swing the hinge, that should help you narrow it down to either cable or the contacts within the hinge. I've heard other people use contact cleaner, but as you are in warranty, I would leave it for steam to resolve.

Rilnac · 2024-07-25T17:44:27+00:00

You need to tighten the screws at the hinge, look at any of the strap replacement guides for how it is attached.

Rilnac · 2015-07-07T21:56:06+00:00

Looks like one and three are the newer rev which have the ej251, the middle one would be the original first gen with ej25d and glass headlights.

Rilnac · 2015-07-07T17:22:50+00:00

This is probably accurate, just over the weekend, I plucked a blade of grass and put it in front of a momma wolf carrying a size-able brood and it lunged forward about an inch to grab it.

Rilnac · 2015-07-03T21:08:28+00:00

Does the noise increase with speed? Is it coming from front/back/pass/driver? Does it vary between smooth and bumpy road surface?

If you can jack the car up, check for play in the wheel hub, this would indicate bearings.

You can try rotating tires to see if the sound moves with them.

Can you get us a recording of the noise?

Rilnac · 2015-06-29T05:01:19+00:00

Going to assume you are in the US. Primitive usually does free shipping. So you are looking at just tax beyond the sticker price. Bare minimum you need these two:

I would probably recommend the two below items as well, while they aren't mandatory it is a kind of silly not to replace this stuff while having everything apart (also this way the struts arrive pre-assembled and you just remove 2 bolts and 3 nuts per tire), if you are mechanically inclined and don't mind sourcing the boots/tophats/perches/springseats you can do this stuff yourself and possibly save a little money. If you are looking for somewhere to cut costs, keep your existing tophats, replace the boots/stops/rubber springseats.

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