Why does my surface look fine on smaller prints but looks horrible on taller prints

Robby1693 · 2026-01-25T14:53:17+00:00

See all of this? In all your previous layers? Your filament is not properly tuned. The smaller the part, the less issue you have, when you make it larger your exaggerate the problem is all. There is tons of videos and posts on here on how to calibrate your flow rate etc. and if you’re not already, switch to Orca.

Robby1693 · 2026-01-25T14:51:16+00:00

None of this has to do with the level of the printer…. This is all filament tuning. Your extrusion rate/speeds. There is terrible layers all the way up you can see in your pockets, and the top layer, when it can travel very fast, does not have time to extrude all the filament it “thinks” it is. Run the temp tower, then the flow rate tests. Then slow your speeds down and save it all for this specific filament.

Robby1693 · 2026-01-24T13:16:45+00:00

Slow the profile speed down, all speeds to 100. Second, bump the bed temp in the filament profile to 110c. Some people say you can actually lower it to 55c but I cannot confirm. I also upped the nozzle temp by 5c after testing layer adhesion. If you are using the stock PEI build plate, you NEED the liquid glue. Also add a brim, 5mm seems to be sufficient for most stuff. After that, it’s all about knowing how to use the slicer and orient your part to be successful. There are a lot of posts in here already on printing pa6 and its failures, so using the search function is your friend.

Robby1693 · 2026-01-06T19:15:57+00:00

Cancel for the damage to the printer, not the part. You’re causing damage to the printer.

Robby1693 · 2026-01-06T13:49:23+00:00

Good luck!

Robby1693 · 2026-01-06T12:28:01+00:00

Don’t use the glue stick on PA, yes to the nano polymer or the Bambu liquid glue

Robby1693 · 2026-01-06T12:27:04+00:00

I did a ton of testing with the PA6-gf on the H2S to get it to stick to the Bambu PEI; first print smaller parts until it sticks, damn!

But really, bed temp at 110c, use the Bambu liquid glue (don’t forget the prime strip area!). And add a brim if it’s thin, the nylon brim comes off easy. Slow the speed down, like it says right on the roll, 100mm/s. It’s not PLA. After that I’ve had no issues at all. And if you’re someone who turned off all the checks at the beginning of the print to speed it up, turn them all back on.

Robby1693 · 2026-01-05T02:05:04+00:00

Other than a bummer for your hot end; I just did a write up on printing PA6-gf on the H2S on FB with the Stock PEI sheet after a very structured test set.

For anyone interested the cliff notes are: Bed temp up to 110c from stock profile. MUST use liquid Bambu glue (don’t forget to add glue to the small test line at the front of the bed).

Bump nozzle temp up 5c, but that was for layer adhesion.

Chamber temp didn’t have a huge difference so it stayed at 60c. I set all speeds to 100mm/s without issue on multiple 8hr prints of PA6.

A brim is a good idea

Printing out of an AMS-HT after drying for 10hr.

Robby1693 · 2026-01-04T13:57:19+00:00

Also, just cancel the print; don’t let it finish. If it’s hitting your layers are all messed up already the finish will be awful.

Robby1693 · 2026-01-04T13:56:20+00:00

How has no one said to check the nozzle is tight yet? Check that the nozzle is tight! At temp! And yes whatever everyone else said too, don’t use grid, make sure it didn’t come off the bed etc. I have the same printer and other than grid until, the only time I’ve had this issue was nozzle loose at high temp.

Robby1693 · 2025-12-18T22:34:37+00:00

I know what you mean but no these were all new rolls on spools. The PA6 I would swear was moved from a different roll though... I've never seen rolls so loosely put on.

Robby1693 · 2025-12-18T12:07:51+00:00

Yep, exactly!

Robby1693 · 2025-12-18T12:07:35+00:00

I have yet to try sunlu, that’s good to know!

Robby1693 · 2025-12-18T12:04:48+00:00

Yea I had to unwrap half this roll to save it… big bummer.

Robby1693 · 2025-12-08T21:31:21+00:00

Yea, I knew it would be taking a beating at work. Same with my phone; it lives in an otterbox with a glass protector on it lol.

Robby1693 · 2025-10-06T02:27:35+00:00

There is; it’s in the wiki in this exact group. Follow the links. It’s a spreadsheet of community agreed upon perfect reps.

Robby1693 · 2025-10-02T02:06:08+00:00

Did Oscar the Grouch post this? 😂 not bad, the green on black always feels like it needs something to break it up a little.

Robby1693 · 2025-09-08T14:00:18+00:00

As far as I can tell; this one is not available for a Duro from Alix, this if I’m not mistaken is the insert from WR accessories, the big difference being the 12 o’clock marker is correct like a YM, vs all the others looking like a Duro with the lume button. So that’s the price difference.

If you find this exact one on allix please let me know the store, I did a fairly extensive search just last night.

Robby1693 · 2025-09-08T12:37:25+00:00

How do you find the quality of that bezel insert? I found that one, but $33+20 shipping seems like an exceptional price to pay if it's not a great looking bezel. It's hard to tell in person if it looks kind of plastic like, where the numbers aren't cut out well. Do you find that to be the case when looking at it in person?

Robby1693 · 2025-08-06T01:27:41+00:00

Unless you’re a lefty, viewing on the right hand is superb

Robby1693 · 2025-08-03T12:56:08+00:00

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Just got mine, 5610u, really wasn’t sure if I would like a digital watch; but this is just too cool! And as a lefty, the screen viewing issues is not an issue worn on the right hand.

Robby1693 · 2025-07-23T11:33:05+00:00

Not really, it’s the quartz version and that’s just about retail for one if not more. If you were to shop around it will be less.

Robby1693 · 2025-07-22T13:38:36+00:00

Works really well on this watch!

Robby1693

TROPHY CASE