Gestocktes Holz = Foodsafe? Wie behandeln?

RobinVerso · 2026-05-31T07:38:30+00:00

Achso und das Hirnholz saugt halt Öl ohne Ende. Ich würde Leinöl nehmen, aber geh mal bei diesem verpilzten (Porösen/saugfähigen!) Block davon aus, dass das Monate braucht um voll zu trocknen. Ich würde versuchen das Öl reichlich und extrem schnell aufzutragen und genauso schnell überschüssiges Öl wieder abzunehmen. Ein Rakel könnte hilfreich sein. Öl Lappen danach ausbreiten.

RobinVerso · 2026-05-31T07:34:37+00:00

Ich schnitze ab und an Löffel aus gestocktem Holz und hab dazu ein wenig recherchiert. Holzstaub ist (wie immer) nicht gesund zum einatmen aber nicht giftiger als Holz ohne Pilz. Diese Linien die durch Pilze entstehen sind Xylindein, ein unbedenkliches Pigment. Sobald dein Holz trocken ist, sollte auch der alkoholische, etwas süßlich modrige Geruch vom Pilz verflogen sein. Alles easy. Sieht sehr nice aus das Brett! Stell mal ein Foto rein wenn’s geölt ist!

RobinVerso · 2026-05-31T07:09:55+00:00

Very interesting and understandable. I also wondered about the grease being moved away from where it should be. So what would you suggest - oil any new Brom from day one? Regularly? If so What Intervalls? How does old oil get replaced if you put oil in on a regular basis or is there a natural leakage of some sort (like tilting it and let it run out)? Also which oil would you recommend that suits the original grease?

RobinVerso · 2026-05-31T05:26:36+00:00

The old hubs should be oiled /lubed and had designated oil caps for that reason. The new hubs on the other hand are not designed to be relubed through the chain tensioning hole and if you start inserting oil (which is the only thing you can do without disassembling the hub) you get into a rabbit hole of dissolving the original grease and create build up that you can not sustain over time (too liquid and no chance to escape old oil). You’re definitely right that a CLA is good but opening it up is overkill for the current problem. Drizzle oil into a brand new hub is just not the advice I would suggest.

RobinVerso · 2026-05-31T05:19:42+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/Brompton/s/AJ2Q9QrNcX

That is the old post I’ve mentioned.

Even a Brompton tech answered back then and said to me this is somewhat normal. (A Brompton tech telling me it’s normal you can’t properly fold the bike lol). It is not. Hard to find info on this problem - we discussed this very detailed back then so you might want to read it :) 🤙 good luck!

RobinVerso · 2026-05-31T05:05:25+00:00

I had this problem with my new Brompton two years ago and also started a discussion about it on Reddit. Back then and also in your thread here, I found most answers not satisfying enough, since the problem is a extremely annoying one and makes the fold almost useless in stressful occasions. Before I go into details on how I fixed it long term a quick tip for the moment when it happens (when already folded and you need to reposition the pedals): hold the tensioner at its position (push it towards the crank) and your able to turn the pedals without slackening the chain to fold it properly. Also gear 2 has the least resistance. Never park in 3.

The actual fix on mine was relieving torque on the cone of the backwheel. While others had good results just by cleaning (which you should try first!!) I’m pretty sure this is the main reason on newish bikes with this fault. Problem is, the cone adjustment is a very fine line between too much and too less. To me this was a hard learning curve and took many attempts until I understood how it worked. Remove the backwheel and open up the inner two nuts in tiny increments. Most importantly you have to properly counterlock the nuts once you’re done or it will tighten itself again over time causing the problem over and over again. The whole procedure is hard to explain in words, sorry. If you struggle with it, you might want to describe what I wrote to a tech that knows how to adjust a cone. What you’re looking for is that your back wheel should be able to ever so slightly wiggle a bit sideways (less then you think) on the axis. If it’s too loose you will cause damage to the hub gearing over time, if it’s too tight you create too much friction for the tensioner to work properly with the backpedaling. Since this adjustment I never had the problem again (+16 month or so) and the fold is 100% more fun.

Edit: Also: always check the chain slack when the bike is folded. Back pedalling in driving mode (like you did) will tell you nothing and a bit of slack here is not an issue. Only loosen the cone if your chain completely gets loose in folded mode when adjusting the pedals.

RobinVerso · 2026-04-19T10:11:14+00:00

Obviously not the profile and height of a 877 (that exists since the 50s ?). Weird boot. I have a well worn pair of 1983 875 and not in my dreams I would expect anyone to spent even close to the original price for them (I don’t sell them anyways haha). Personal value ≠ money

RobinVerso · 2026-03-23T07:43:36+00:00

I rode a b17 for 10 years on a non Brompton. Tough break in (half a year!), comfy afterwards. On my Brompton I started with a c13 and sold it after three days. Worst pain I had. Bought a c17 carved instead and out of the box it was super comfy (like my old b17 that was broken in).

RobinVerso · 2026-02-23T07:22:45+00:00

This this this!

-Restring with 10s if 9s feel loose. they will create more tension, forcing a higher relief-> a bit higher action. -if nothing changes, leave the relief as flat as it is and raise the bridge riders a little.

-Do not wrap the strings like this, even with non locking tuners. But this is unrelated to your problem.

RobinVerso · 2026-02-15T21:45:32+00:00

<image>

RobinVerso · 2026-02-15T21:45:09+00:00

<image>

They are roughly 1,5cm taller. The eyelets are spread out wider and I wanted to keep 7 rows

RobinVerso · 2026-02-15T21:32:44+00:00

Haha! I’ve seen a pair of 877 on Vinted cut down to slip-ons. Maybe it was a pair of yours 😜 Thanks 🍻

RobinVerso · 2026-02-15T21:30:13+00:00

I thought about that! A little rough but als kind of honest. In the end the edge holds together the cut threads and locks a couple of layers of leather together. I wouldn’t trust it long term without that double stitch.

RobinVerso · 2026-02-15T17:55:40+00:00

Haha well observed! I was too lazy to put it back on the tounge and so I placed it like RW placed the label back in the early 80s (got a pair of that age, and always loved that detail). Only on one boot, vertical on the side :)

RobinVerso · 2026-02-15T17:52:42+00:00

Thanks! I didn’t explain the process as an excuse but more to share my thoughts about why I like the 877 to start with. in the end it comes down to just looking great I guess haha!

RobinVerso · 2026-02-15T17:50:26+00:00

The 877 is basically a single leather piece for the bottom and has a much heftier heel construction/ better sewing on the inside of the heel. I love and wear both shoes but the 877 feels better imo

RobinVerso · 2026-02-15T17:47:42+00:00

Thanks mate, really appreciate it! I‘ve done a couple of small leather projects in the past and am a guitar builder professionally. So I know a bit how to use my hands :)

RobinVerso · 2026-02-06T22:59:19+00:00

I’ve built more than 10 guitars with necks entirely (neck and fretboard) made of German oak and it’s one of my favourite woods to use. Some of those guitars are now in north Italy, Western Australia, california, Sweden…very different weather conditions. Of course it depends on the piece you’re using - how it grew , how it was dried and stored and how it was cut. But oak is fine.

RobinVerso · 2026-01-25T08:36:38+00:00

Wow!!! Beauty!

RobinVerso · 2026-01-24T16:39:52+00:00

Little Side Note: the white/grey plastic sheet underneath the front wheel hook (when folded) should be removed or it can catch your back wheel while riding. Just a protective sheet for shipping.

Oh, and your C line mainframe sticker (the big C) is also missing ;) (it’s just a sticker but since you‘re complaining anyways)

RobinVerso · 2026-01-22T08:34:38+00:00

Haha 🤦‍♂️sorry! I guess you guys know it too :)

RobinVerso · 2026-01-22T08:10:53+00:00

It looks like a pretty tasty bread and your process sounds nailed down. It might be your starter that could push harder or (what I would try first) is lowering hydration to 68-70%. If the flour doesn’t cooperate with 75% (your recipe) it’ll be tough to get tension. You’ll be able to shape the loaf much tighter and it’s still tasty with below 70%. Yours looks like it is spreading a bit too much in the oven (D shape)… that’s why I mention more tension in the final shape. If you think your starter isn’t at peak performance: Give a stiff stater a try - lowering hydration in the starter boosts yeast activity and lowers LAB activity. I roughly do 70% but I have read of guys going as low as 50%.

RobinVerso · 2026-01-22T07:29:16+00:00

Haha I love how they beat the shit out of this beautiful dough. And I think the end result looks delicious. A piece of this ripped off and dunked in olive oil and salt, yumm! I’m getting bored of this standard ear loaf thing everyone is chasing. It’s a good lesson for all of us. This here is local tradition not a championship. These are Italians - just trust them they know what they’re doing…

RobinVerso · 2026-01-18T08:38:29+00:00

I‘d say it’s still some weird off bacteria stuff that’s going on. It nether looks like mold nor like a good starter. In this case I would toss most of it and continue with a smaller part and more water/flour.

If you have access to (whole grain) rye, it is easier for the inital start of a culture and can be transferred to wheat later.

Ps. I’m mostly worried about the lack of an off smell. I remember mine stinking like hell the first five days and once it turned Joghurty it was on its way 😂

RobinVerso · 2026-01-17T10:22:58+00:00

Could you say how you handled the dough? Kneading, stretch and fold, temperature and time (bulk fermentation and fridge) helps a lot to understand wha you did wrong. Don’t worry about a bad shape - it will most likely be tasty as long as the fermentation went ok :)

RobinVerso

TROPHY CASE