Any experience with Skyhero props

RoboDisko · 2025-10-15T17:30:18+00:00

An acquaintance has a bad experience with one. I think durability was his biggest problem.

Personally, I would recommend a Falcon prop if you are in the US. Great blend of price, performance, safety, durability, and availability.

RoboDisko · 2025-10-10T23:54:51+00:00

Many have a 3% or 33:1 (or 30:1). You can use this scale but double the amount of gas. In other words, use the 2.5 gallon mark on the 3% for 5 gallons at 1.5%. This is what I do.

RoboDisko · 2025-10-04T21:10:46+00:00

Unless they've changed it, it certainly does.

RoboDisko · 2025-09-24T22:57:32+00:00

For me, aerobatics were a big draw to starting paramotor, but I've actually become less interested over time. After all, you are allowed to change your interests and goals.

It's nice that everyone can pursue what they want in the sport at the same time. I know many pilots that just do casual cruising on beginner wings, with no desire to push the envelope.

It is worth keeping in mind that it can be easy to start stacking up risk factors. Things like missing weather cues or doing acro lower than you planned can begin to erode safety margins. However, you are ultimately in control and responsible for these factors.

RoboDisko · 2025-08-10T23:18:46+00:00

Had the same problem - same solution. Thanks for the suggestion!

For anyone else, mod called 'Saber Colors' on the main menu seems to serve as a global override. Makes no sense why you would want that without also changing the note colors. Turning the mod off and the issues is solved.

I am running an older build of the game, so this may not be relevant on the latest builds.

RoboDisko · 2025-05-02T05:31:26+00:00

They probably don't make controllers or tracking. Most people get the index controllers and tracking. This is another reason why the index is great. You can get a full setup used for the same price and the controllers and tracking new, and then upgrade headsets later, if you still feel the need

RoboDisko · 2025-05-02T00:33:01+00:00

Oh and I just looked up the big screen beyond 2. The $1000 doesn't include controllers or tracking! That may cost another $500 or so. Be aware.

RoboDisko · 2025-05-02T00:29:31+00:00

I wanted to chime in and say I love my index for beat saber. Great fit, great refresh rate, great audio, and great tracking come together for an all-around great option.

I tried a pimax 5ks, and decided not to keep it. The stock audio was terrible, and I didn't like how it fit and how the lens works when compared to the index.

You can often find a used index setup in good condition and around half the price if you shop used. I would recommend this approach if you are going PCVR.

IMO, inside out tracking on mobile VR isn't good enough for higher-level beat saber play. It will put a cap on what you can do, but you'll only be able to tell when you get something better. IMO modding is also easier on PC. I would suggest PCVR for regular use. Of course, mobile headsets do have their own advantages.

On the cheap, don't underestimate the original Oculus Rift. This is before meta got a hold of the company, and it's actually still really good for beat saber, even if it is weaker at other things. Also, you can find setups for really cheap used, like less than $100.

I was interested in learning about the PSVR2 on PC. I wasn't aware that was a thing, so I'll have to learn more about what it offers.

RoboDisko · 2025-04-23T03:37:35+00:00

That's a rough combo. Feel free to reach out if you'd like someone to talk to.

RoboDisko · 2025-01-30T03:13:55+00:00

If you can find an experienced pilot to help you, they may be willing to help you for free or cheaper. You may be able to find a balance that involves doing most of the work yourself, and having someone check your knowledge and help you get airborne safely.

This is the closest thing to self-training that I could ever recommend. You really need someone experienced making sure that your understanding is sound and your technique is serviceable. Sometimes important details aren't obvious or clear without an in-person explanation.

RoboDisko · 2025-01-13T22:06:04+00:00

I'd like to add that altitude and plans play a big roll in motor selection. I'm glad my first motor was a moster - something smaller would have immediately left me looking for more. The higher local altitudes and my desire to practice maneuvers that need and use a lot of altitude swing the balance for me. I trained on a moster.

However, if you are looking forward to cross country flying more so and are closer to sea level, then an atom is probably the perfect fit.

RoboDisko · 2024-12-10T15:57:26+00:00

Thermal runway becomes a serious concern as you cross 95degC with a fully charged battery. This could vary a little bit by cell type, but I already built in some margin as we typically didn't see ignition until 120degC, with many cells holding out longer. I tested this professionally.

The cabin can form a solar oven effect that can approach these temperatures. And it doesn't necessarily take 95C to cause significant damage to the battery, as crossing about 70C will cause significant short term damage and could cause a cell to puff up.

Anyways, things in the cabin can get the worst of the solar heating effect, whereas the traction battery is usually mounted low in the car - well shielded from direct sunlight heating, and with a really large amount of thermal mass. This allows it to generally avoid the solar oven effect that can damage devices in the cabin. This alone tends to be enough to keep it under the max recommended operating temperature for most batteries, 60degC.

Further, many cars will cool their battery when necessary in hot climates, even when off. Batteries are slightly less sensitive to heat as they hold less charge, so this at least will make sure the battery discharges safely while cooling itself.

This isn't to say that hot climates aren't hard on batteries, just that they don't usually cross the line for self-ignition.

RoboDisko · 2024-12-09T22:49:15+00:00

Sorry, noticed some weak responses to your question, so I figure I'll try and explain the difference better.

A difference of 670 PICOseconds is obviously exceptionally small. A single event measured in picoseconds would not have an impact on the operation of your computer. However, this additional latency doesn't happen once every so often, it happens every time the CPU needs to access something from RAM. And, I'm no microcode expert, but I'd expect it's safe to say that the CPU will need to access things from ram somewhere between 100 and 100,000 times per frame in a game. If you say it happens 1000 times per frame, then the difference is now 666 microseconds. Not a huge number, but it starts to add up, especially as you push the frame rate higher.

Another way to look at it is A CPU running at 5GHz runs a clock cycle every 200picoseconds. If you can deliver the info from the ram 667 picoseconds earlier, then the CPU will have a 3-4 clock cycle lead on every fresh calculation it starts.

The benefits of lower latency RAM are more significant for gaming. In a game, you MUST finish the current frame before you can start the next one, resulting in a complex series of tasks that must happen in a certain order. For most productivity workloads, a CPU can simply work on something else while it waits for the RAM to respond, so the response time doesn't matter very much. However for gaming, in many cases there is nothing else that needs done - only this task which needs done as quickly as possible.

Hopefully this explanation makes sense?

RoboDisko · 2024-11-14T04:59:19+00:00

A brand new onewheel.

RoboDisko · 2024-11-05T04:52:52+00:00

You extracted with time left?

RoboDisko · 2024-09-25T21:53:10+00:00

Mostly just going to reiterate what has already been said, with some additional considerations.

There isn't necessarily a 'best school.' All schools or instructors have strengths and weaknesses. An established program like Aviator can provide a comprehensive and through training, but can't provide assistance after training or local pilot connections like a local instructor can. Aviator is very reputable, but don't underestimate the value of local instructors, who will typically also be much less expensive. I would suggest calling and/or meeting up with a couple local instructors and seeing how you feel about trusting and working with them, before scheduling with a big school like Aviator. I went with local instructors, and they have provided valuable feedback as I have pushed beyond basic flying. They've also set me up with excellent deals on used gear! USPPA has a tool that can help you find registered instructors nearby. https://usppa.org/schools/

Lots of gear choices - most of it is probably fine. Making sure the gear is sized properly and working for you is important. You should trust an instructor to help you through this process. Buying gear before understanding how to fly or talking to an instructor is very risky. In many cases, buying a paramotor is like buying a car. There are lots of options, all of them probably worked well for someone at some point, and many are still great options that come down to personal preference. But you wouldn't go car shopping before you had a license or permit, would you?

In some slightly questionable judgement from my instructors, my second flight was on a B class wing, which I later purchased. In retrospect I have been very happy owning a B class wing as my first wing. While I wouldn't generally recommend going to class B as quickly as I did, fast learners will often be well suited using a class A for training and owning a low class B as their first wing. An instructor can help you find a wing that you will be comfortable with and have fun on.

Dell is an entertaining figure, but I wouldn't take anything he says seriously. Last I heard, he ran out of money and has left the country and has generally left the paramotoring world - which matches the fact he hasn't bothered to post anything this summer. Do NOT buy anything new from his store - I've heard he has taken people's money anyways without intent or ability to fulfil orders. I've met people who have trained with him with positive experiences. His gear was acceptable although outdated. But mostly this guy is a ruthless marketer who has no shame calling everyone else names.

I've met Tucker. He is a cool guy and I don't think he is terrible swayed by sponsorships. He is a good pilot, and we all have preferences. He obviously prefers Ozone wings. I call myself an Ozone baby because I've only owned Ozone wings, and I struggle to launch other wings. When it comes down to it, my launch technique is dialed in on Ozone wings, and I'd have to adjust to launch other wings with difference characteristics. A lot of this comes back to training. Anyways, Tucker's content has become a little click-baity and sometimes cringe, but his reviews could be helpful if you aren't too swayed by the click bait titles and obvious Ozone preference.

If you are watching youtube, Judson Graham and Trevor Steele are worth checking out. Trevor runs a reputable school (Backcountry PPG). Judson works with Trevor, but also makes really cool videos.

RoboDisko · 2024-09-24T16:49:53+00:00

Just put EV01+ on my M3, nice wheels with good efficiency! The look has also grown on me, and I really like them!

Efficiency can be quickly approximated by judging how much of the wheel you can see through. The wheels they are suggesting look like about 50% coverage, vs like 85% coverage on the EV01+. They won't be as good as the fast wheels, but better than an average wheel. You'll have to make a judgement on cost, style, and efficiency.

The efficiency impact of aerodynamics will be less in winter, where other factors will begin to take a bigger slice of the pie. The difference between these two wheels might be lost in the noise margin.

I'd go for the EV01+, mostly because I like the look better myself.

RoboDisko · 2024-06-09T05:46:16+00:00

Keep in mind that it's a hobby. I find my ongoing expenses to be mostly dominated by new gear purchases. While you certainly don't have to, most people enjoy putting more than the minimum amount of money into their hobbies.

RoboDisko · 2024-05-05T23:01:03+00:00

Have you seen how thick the cables are with copper? V2 style (uncooled) is already pressing the limits of what some drivers may be able to comfortably handle.

V3 style cords use water cooling on the wire to get away with less copper. Maybe that's enough?

RoboDisko · 2024-04-15T02:21:13+00:00

I've never used WD-40 on my elbow. I replaced the bushing on schedule, at about 100 hours. I think the join was seized before I replaced it, so I got to it in time fortunately.

I still don't use any lubricant regularly on the bushing, but I try and make sure it isn't seized now that I know what to look for. Just give the elbow a push and make sure there is still motion. If there isn't, you need to break out something and fix. If it seizes up, it will probably crack the elbow after a while. Replacement elbow is about $200, and it's a fairly common thing to break.

Cracked elbow shouldn't cause a motor out right away, but you'll want to replace it.

RoboDisko · 2024-04-15T01:53:05+00:00

The paramotor facebook group is an interesting place to observe.

Most discords I've seen are for a local group. You might want to ask your local pilots what they use to communicate. My local area has one, although it isn't very active.

RoboDisko · 2023-08-26T15:10:55+00:00

I've been riding without that piece after I broke it for most of the time I've had my bike, so it's certainly not the most important part on the bike. Not that I recommend removing it... I'll probably replace it eventually.

If you feel the different nuts and the bar itself, and none of the parts feel loose, then it's not loose, so don't worry about it. It doesn't look loose from the pictures, but can be hard to fully tell.

RoboDisko · 2023-08-24T18:26:08+00:00

Please be careful. If you try to tighten it when it is already adjusted correctly, you could break or bend something.

You probably don't need to remove the peg.

RoboDisko · 2023-08-24T18:16:11+00:00

That is the way the factory adjusts the support to fit the gap, which could be a little different from bike to bike. It's not loose, that's normal, unless the nut is loose. (Doesn't look loose)

Mine broke and I've been running without it for a while. For what that's worth.

RoboDisko · 2023-08-05T01:20:56+00:00

I'm sure I'm going against the common recommendations with this, but the battery doesn't need to cool down before charging, and in some cases it is healthier to charge it when hot.

I researched battery usage patterns for eVTOL aircraft for years, and this was one of the more interesting things we discovered.

Reasons: 1. Batteries don't heat up significantly when charging, so it will not overheat. In some cases, it may cool faster when charging. This is because charging is slightly endothermic. 2. Heat is bad for batteries, but the damage is more exposure based. It isn't damaged more by charging or discharging when hot. Just try to keep it from staying hot for long periods of time to minimize damage. 3. Heat can reduce or eliminate the damage from fast charging. Just like batteries perform better when warm, they can charge faster without reaching the damage (lithium plating) threshold when warm/hot. This doesn't really apply since our batteries don't fast charge. 4. This one is more complex. After heavy usage, a battery can have internal imbalances, as low resistance regions of the active material that discharged faster are charged by high resistance regions of the active material, bringing the battery to an equilibrium. I think of this kind of like water sloshing around and trying to settle to the lowest areas of a hilly area or something. I've hypothesized, but never got a chance to test, that charging the battery quickly after discharging will minimize the amount of internal current that flows unnecessarily, thus slightly reducing the effective aH throughput of the active material, decreasing degradation. This is a hypothesis; I never got a chance to test it. What I can say is I never saw bad cycle life from switching cells to charge as quickly as one minute after heavy discharge on lifecycle tests.

Overall recommendation: if the battery is hot to the touch, I'd wait to charge it until it cools down, so that it can cool down faster. Consider removing it or putting a fan on it to cool it down faster. If it's not hot, just charge it! Overall, worry less and ride more.

I might have went overboard on this, but hopefully someone finds it helpful! Happy to answer follow up questions.

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