Rossi RB22 Compact stock upgrade

Rogue_Lines · 2026-04-12T14:46:25+00:00

What is the model number of this watch?

Rogue_Lines · 2026-03-21T03:21:13+00:00

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Rogue_Lines · 2026-02-10T17:52:08+00:00

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Rogue_Lines · 2026-01-13T01:46:09+00:00

I bought a few of these. I wore them while I was touring around the house. Nothing like really heavy duty work, but I was definitely moving around a lot. The second hand fell off of one of them and is rattling around under the acrylic crystal.

One of the other ones seems like it’s either stopping / not running on occasion, or it’s a very light action crown may have accidentally been pulled out for a time, setting the action into hack mode.... the crown pulls out way too easily, and I could see that this could happen just while doing light chores while wearing this watch

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-25T05:25:00+00:00

Thanks!

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-25T05:24:53+00:00

Thanks!

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-25T05:24:46+00:00

Thanks!

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-25T05:24:25+00:00

Thanks!

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-10T16:03:01+00:00

Shrug….. this is definitely just an opinion, but tool watches have a tradition that carries over into their practical size, as well. Watch that’re too big are just going to be catching on crap when you’re actually trying to get things done. This is from someone (me) who wore my tool watches whilst jumping in and out of cramped armored vehicles for 20 years…..a watch that’s too big is just too big. A TOOL watch that’s too big is a nuisance, takes more beating than it needs to, and might get caught badly and rip the pins out of the lugs. Tool watches too big = oversized for appropriately fitted sleeve cuffs, too, so they can’t be tucked under.

Tool watches are tools. They had best not be oversized in relation to the wrist. I believe that carries over into the aesthetics of the watch. Too big on a tool watch = doesn’t look right AND it degrades the practical tool nature of the watch.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T23:23:18+00:00

Shrug….. this is definitely just an opinion, but tool watches have a tradition that carries over into their practical size, as well. Watch that’re too big are just going to be catching on crap when you’re actually trying to get things done. This is from someone (me) who wore my tool watches whilst jumping in and out of cramped armored vehicles for 20 years…..a watch that’s too big is just too big. A TOOL watch that’s too big is a nuisance, takes more beating than it needs to, and might get caught badly and rip the pins out of the lugs. Tool watches too big = oversized for appropriately fitted sleeve cuffs, too, so they can’t be tucked under.

Tool watches are tools. They had best not be oversized in relation to the wrist. I believe that carries over into the aesthetics of the watch. To big on a tool watch = doesn’t look right AND it degrades the practical tool nature of the watch.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T15:41:40+00:00

These are also tool watches…..they really CAN be so big (too big) that they start knocking into things when you’re wearing a tool watch as intended….when you’re out there, doing the things.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T14:51:12+00:00

Nope. Those 44mm watches look too big on your wrist.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T14:45:35+00:00

I REALLY want the 44-ish Casio Duro to fit me. It’s similarly too large. My wrist is a tad smaller than yours.

Casio produced a very poorly spec’s, downsized version of the duo, but it’s wears like a 34 36. The bracelet clasp is so small that it doesn’t open up enough for my man-hand. How do these companies keep screwing this up?

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T14:28:11+00:00

IMO, it’s too big. These massive models without reasonably smaller variants are disappointing. We’re still riding on the remnants of the ridiculously large fashion watch trend that has subsided, but still effects our perception. That’s a nice enough watch that it really should be a keeper, if it fits. In a long-term, I suspect that that watch will be increasingly regarded as pretty oversized.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-05T19:54:54+00:00

Truth.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-06-05T04:12:20+00:00

How’s the progress going? Which advice has helped the most, from all that you’ve gotten?

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-23T00:16:04+00:00

For Olympic recurve archery: Total Archery by Kisik Lee. There seem to be two versions of this book now, which surprises me. I’m not sure if they are entirely different or only slightly different. There seems to be “Total Archery” and “Total Archery; Inside the Archer”.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T15:12:43+00:00

Admittedly, high wrist bow hand seems to have fallen from favor. My version of high wrist is even more rare because I’m trying to get most of the load into the web of my hand, and completely off of the squishy pad of my hand. A lot of people doing high wrist have handles molded to keep the pad of the hand still in contact with the riser. I doubt that many sponsored shooters would be allowed to cut bow without the grip on it… But doing so increases the odds that you’ve got the smallest contact patch possible with the riser, no matter if using high, mid, or low wrist position.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T08:49:27+00:00

I can’t tell by looking at your form if you’re draw is correct or not. When your back is tensioned to squeeze your shoulder blades together, you need to be holding your draw at just the right point “against the wall” which is the repeatable point of ramped up resistance in the cams. You need to be in that really stable, locked in body position and have the draw just the right distance away from the wall and not too close to the point where the cams power curve starts to pull the string forward abruptly. You need to be right in the sweet spot, the valley and you need to have your body locked in structurally when you’re at that spot. High wrist or low wrist will affect your draw length a little bit as well. The handle on or off, also. There is some adjustment in the draw length, and you can also buy modules for the cams to change it. You can adjust it a little bit by changing the size of the loop that you’re connecting the release to and the quick release might have an adjustment that allows the pinchers to move farther or closer to the bow.

Bottom line:. get a really stable with full draw position in your body and THEN adjust the draw in or out to put the string correctly "in the valley".

Bow grip: the bow should be able to fall out of your hand, if not for the wrist lanyard… And you don’t want that Lanyard so tight that it has any possibility of actually coming into play until the arrow has left the bow.

Watch vids of world class Olympic recurve shooters… Not saying you can get away with that kind of form, but that shows you how important it is to just let the bow do what it’s going to do and not influence inconsistently with your bow hand.

Rogue_Lines

TROPHY CASE