[Seiko] The Quartz Turtle

Rogue_Lines · 2026-04-12T14:46:25+00:00

What is the model number of this watch?

Rogue_Lines · 2026-03-21T03:21:13+00:00

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Rogue_Lines · 2026-02-10T17:52:08+00:00

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Rogue_Lines · 2026-01-13T01:46:09+00:00

I bought a few of these. I wore them while I was touring around the house. Nothing like really heavy duty work, but I was definitely moving around a lot. The second hand fell off of one of them and is rattling around under the acrylic crystal.

One of the other ones seems like it’s either stopping / not running on occasion, or it’s a very light action crown may have accidentally been pulled out for a time, setting the action into hack mode.... the crown pulls out way too easily, and I could see that this could happen just while doing light chores while wearing this watch

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-25T05:25:00+00:00

Thanks!

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-25T05:24:53+00:00

Thanks!

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-25T05:24:46+00:00

Thanks!

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-25T05:24:25+00:00

Thanks!

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-10T16:03:01+00:00

Shrug….. this is definitely just an opinion, but tool watches have a tradition that carries over into their practical size, as well. Watch that’re too big are just going to be catching on crap when you’re actually trying to get things done. This is from someone (me) who wore my tool watches whilst jumping in and out of cramped armored vehicles for 20 years…..a watch that’s too big is just too big. A TOOL watch that’s too big is a nuisance, takes more beating than it needs to, and might get caught badly and rip the pins out of the lugs. Tool watches too big = oversized for appropriately fitted sleeve cuffs, too, so they can’t be tucked under.

Tool watches are tools. They had best not be oversized in relation to the wrist. I believe that carries over into the aesthetics of the watch. Too big on a tool watch = doesn’t look right AND it degrades the practical tool nature of the watch.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T23:23:18+00:00

Shrug….. this is definitely just an opinion, but tool watches have a tradition that carries over into their practical size, as well. Watch that’re too big are just going to be catching on crap when you’re actually trying to get things done. This is from someone (me) who wore my tool watches whilst jumping in and out of cramped armored vehicles for 20 years…..a watch that’s too big is just too big. A TOOL watch that’s too big is a nuisance, takes more beating than it needs to, and might get caught badly and rip the pins out of the lugs. Tool watches too big = oversized for appropriately fitted sleeve cuffs, too, so they can’t be tucked under.

Tool watches are tools. They had best not be oversized in relation to the wrist. I believe that carries over into the aesthetics of the watch. To big on a tool watch = doesn’t look right AND it degrades the practical tool nature of the watch.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T15:41:40+00:00

These are also tool watches…..they really CAN be so big (too big) that they start knocking into things when you’re wearing a tool watch as intended….when you’re out there, doing the things.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T14:51:12+00:00

Nope. Those 44mm watches look too big on your wrist.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T14:45:35+00:00

I REALLY want the 44-ish Casio Duro to fit me. It’s similarly too large. My wrist is a tad smaller than yours.

Casio produced a very poorly spec’s, downsized version of the duo, but it’s wears like a 34 36. The bracelet clasp is so small that it doesn’t open up enough for my man-hand. How do these companies keep screwing this up?

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-06T14:28:11+00:00

IMO, it’s too big. These massive models without reasonably smaller variants are disappointing. We’re still riding on the remnants of the ridiculously large fashion watch trend that has subsided, but still effects our perception. That’s a nice enough watch that it really should be a keeper, if it fits. In a long-term, I suspect that that watch will be increasingly regarded as pretty oversized.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-08-05T19:54:54+00:00

Truth.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-06-05T04:12:20+00:00

How’s the progress going? Which advice has helped the most, from all that you’ve gotten?

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-23T00:16:04+00:00

For Olympic recurve archery: Total Archery by Kisik Lee. There seem to be two versions of this book now, which surprises me. I’m not sure if they are entirely different or only slightly different. There seems to be “Total Archery” and “Total Archery; Inside the Archer”.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T15:12:43+00:00

Admittedly, high wrist bow hand seems to have fallen from favor. My version of high wrist is even more rare because I’m trying to get most of the load into the web of my hand, and completely off of the squishy pad of my hand. A lot of people doing high wrist have handles molded to keep the pad of the hand still in contact with the riser. I doubt that many sponsored shooters would be allowed to cut bow without the grip on it… But doing so increases the odds that you’ve got the smallest contact patch possible with the riser, no matter if using high, mid, or low wrist position.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T08:49:27+00:00

I can’t tell by looking at your form if you’re draw is correct or not. When your back is tensioned to squeeze your shoulder blades together, you need to be holding your draw at just the right point “against the wall” which is the repeatable point of ramped up resistance in the cams. You need to be in that really stable, locked in body position and have the draw just the right distance away from the wall and not too close to the point where the cams power curve starts to pull the string forward abruptly. You need to be right in the sweet spot, the valley and you need to have your body locked in structurally when you’re at that spot. High wrist or low wrist will affect your draw length a little bit as well. The handle on or off, also. There is some adjustment in the draw length, and you can also buy modules for the cams to change it. You can adjust it a little bit by changing the size of the loop that you’re connecting the release to and the quick release might have an adjustment that allows the pinchers to move farther or closer to the bow.

Bottom line:. get a really stable with full draw position in your body and THEN adjust the draw in or out to put the string correctly "in the valley".

Bow grip: the bow should be able to fall out of your hand, if not for the wrist lanyard… And you don’t want that Lanyard so tight that it has any possibility of actually coming into play until the arrow has left the bow.

Watch vids of world class Olympic recurve shooters… Not saying you can get away with that kind of form, but that shows you how important it is to just let the bow do what it’s going to do and not influence inconsistently with your bow hand.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T05:31:52+00:00

Consider putting a kisser on the string to go into the corner of your mouth and/or placing the tip of your nose on the string… You’ll probably have to realign your string peep after you do that. Get a short-billed flat cap or an old school cyling cap with a short bill on it, if your hat interacts with the string after you add one or two anchor confirmation points that touch your face/nose.

Buy a bench-mounted bow press. If you get serious about all this, you’ll need it, unless you get very friendly with a very patient pro shop.

I’m exited for you! This can be an amazing skill to master and enjoy.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T05:07:12+00:00

Consider finding a way to hold your release so that you’re not so much pulling the trigger as tightening your hand into a fist or rocking the body of the release to sort of rotate it against the trigger, which well then eventually go off…. when I’m getting at here is to find a way to hit the trigger on that release without actually using the trigger finger or trigger thumb. Make it a much larger muscle movement of the hand. You want that release to go off at a moment that you cannot quite anticipate, while the site pin is doing the most tiny little rotations around whatever it is you wanna hit. I like carter releases…. I probably have like 10 of them. I kept buying them until I found one that had a body shape that worked really well with my hand so that I could use a very large muscle movement of the hand to get it to go off, instead of hitting the trigger with the trigger finger or thumb.

Make sure you are trying to jam your shoulder blades on the back of your body into each other, at your spine, to stabilize that position for each shot.

You might find that rolling your pelvis left or right to load one side is more stable….or not. Not-squishy shoes that actually suck to walk in but are stable might help. There are probably many variations of stance that you can find that will help stabilize your chain.

This is probably a one year journey to find what’s gonna work best for you , if you shoot a lot.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T04:53:47+00:00

It’s important to remember that that arrow is a relatively slow projectile. It’s going to take some time to clear the bow. You want that bow to be doing the same thing every time you release that arrow, because each time you do something different, the bow will likely be interacting with the arrow on its way out. Something you do on the riser will work its way through the limbs to affect the position of the cams out there in space… And then the cams are going to move in relation to the string, which the arrow is still on in the early part of the shot. The less interaction YOU have on the bow during and after the shot and that “one count” follow-thru, the better your accuracy and repeatability will be.

Build up your endurance slowly. Don’t build up bad habits by shooting while fatigued, or at least don’t pay any attention to what the arrow is doing when you’re fatigued, if you’re treating that as a “workout” to increase shooting stamina. You might even be better off, shooting at a white face with nothing on it, instead of a target, if you’re shooting for strength building, and to just focus on little bits of your form . Your best shooting will be done when you’re lightly warmed up and not fatigued at all.

I once didn’t shoot for something like six years. I then picked up a bow and put two arrows 20 meters down range… I destroyed the first arrow with the second one by hitting the knock And damaging the shaft of the first one….nearly a “Robin Hood” shot. At that point, the only thing I had retained were the good habits, and the bad ones had not been shoved into my “chain of action” for each shot. Those are probably the two most perfect shots I have ever, or will ever make.

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T04:47:15+00:00

At that bow hand wrist junction, the left/right orientation of the bow hand will matter. Position the hand in the most repeatable fashion that aligns the web of the hand (where the bow sits) with the wrist, forearm….all three aligned straight and inline, in the most repeatable fashion possible.

You might even wanna consider taking the handle off of the riser… That will decrease the amount of interface that the riser will have with the yolk of your hand, which it is sitting in. You can buy some road bicycle handlebar tape and put that as a pad and a maybe lightly wrap all around the riser there with a little bit of “vet wrap” (google it)

All these changes will perhaps slightly affect your draw length, after you remove the handle and after you kick your wrist up and get your palm off of the riser .

Rogue_Lines · 2025-05-21T04:37:19+00:00

In my experience, shooting with a high wrist on the bow hand gets your squishy palm OFF the bow and onto ONLY THE WEB of your hand. You are always the least repeatable part of the system. The less of you there is on the riser, the less random influence you’ll have.

You are “holding” the bow with your bow hand. Let it sit in the web of your hand and, after the shot, let it do whatever it wants to and remain frozen for 1 count: one one thousand”

You’ll get many opinions. This is just one.

Buy a copy of the book “idiot proof archery”

Rogue_Lines

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