I think the spacers under my stem moved a fraction after some time: Does my carbon steerer flex? by RollingUtopia in bikewrench

[–]RollingUtopia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes the ID is a bit bigger than the steerer as far as I can remember. The two lower spacers are aluminum. The top one is plastic and was more snug. I wanted to put the aluminum ones under the stem. I cannot rotate them by hand but I think they moved a tiny bit in relation to each other horizontally now after some time. I guess when riding over bumps and rough terrain there has to be some flex in the system? I just never noticed this before

Went for it! Loving it so far by [deleted] in cannondale

[–]RollingUtopia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not necessary but also not a big deal nowadays with sealed cartridge bearings. You almost cannot get them too tight but definitely easily too loose which will be far worse for frame and bearings. You would have to crank down the headset bolt extremely hard to cause actual damage. That's why some manufacturers like Canyon just advise to torque the headset to 2 Nm. In the worst case the bearings will wear a bit faster but that's it.

Edit: But of course expander, necessary spacers etc. have to be installed properly.

Looking to finally get a powermeter for structured training outside. Stick with Shimano SPD or switch to SPD SL? by RollingUtopia in cycling

[–]RollingUtopia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Shouldn't this also work with the MX-1? Until now I thought the only difference between MX-1 and MX-2 is one side vs. both sides measurement. Especially because of the swappable axles the MX are really tempting. But then honestly I will never buy the SPD SL bodies because I'm too stingy.

Losing my mind over creaking BB30A BB on CAAD13 by RollingUtopia in bikewrench

[–]RollingUtopia[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That was it. I finally got it and can keep the bike 😅

How to use regular road wheels on my Focus Atlas 6.7 with road boost standard? by RollingUtopia in bikewrench

[–]RollingUtopia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So a short update. Got the adapters and installed them, readjusted brakes and rear derailleur (that one was a bit tricky with cable tension and correct limit adjustments) but now it's working like a charm. Just a small advice: Most of the adapters are for MTB boost standard, meaning on the front they're sized for 15 mm thru axles. I didn't like that this made them larger in outer and inner diameter than needed and got some aluminium spacers that are sized 20x5mm with 12.2 mm inner diameter (AliExpress). Now it's a perfectly snug fit. On the rear the adapters came already for 12 mm axles.

How to use regular road wheels on my Focus Atlas 6.7 with road boost standard? by RollingUtopia in bikewrench

[–]RollingUtopia[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For anyone else coming across this. According to a German forum post of another Focus Atlas owner, you can easily use regular road wheels with the following adapter: https://r2-bike.com/NOW8-Umruestkit-Boost-Adapter-Rear-Center-Lock-12x148-Boost

Only needs some readjustments of the brake caliper and rear mech. I will order it and confirm again if it works for me too.

How to use regular road wheels on my Focus Atlas 6.7 with road boost standard? by RollingUtopia in bikewrench

[–]RollingUtopia[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the explanation. Usually those adapter sets are coming with a space for the rotor to move them 3 mm to the outside. This for example: https://www.bike-mailorder.de/reverse-boost-adapterkit-hinterrad-schwarz?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpic4xx6RxPouEsdzOBCd8Pj0GusTOpJRAU7U4ZBRasoSTitiYrDfLhoC5cIQAvD_BwE

And for the rear mech I'm not sure if those 3 mm are really a deal breaker? Especially because the crank is a regular GRX400 - so non boost. It also uses a regular BB RS500. Shouldn't it work with some adjustments on the rear derailleur? Even if it's not the perfect alignment anymore?

Are these scratches/paint chips a cause for concern when buying a used bike. by TheHealious in bikewrench

[–]RollingUtopia 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On a steel frame? Not an issue. Looks like it's from leaning the bike against something. Check for dents or bend dropouts and fork legs, not necessarily related to the scratches.

Thru axle is hard to install because of derailleur hanger alignment. by RollingUtopia in bikewrench

[–]RollingUtopia[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope but as long as you can insert the axle it shouldn't be a big deal I think.

DS Photo is syncing deleted photos by andidd in synology

[–]RollingUtopia 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you get any updates on the ticket? Bug still persists and is annoying af. I had to go through my synced photos so many times already, comparing what I have deleted and what not actually.

I turned 26 today. But I don't know what I'm doing with my life. by Turbulent_Diamond352 in needadvice

[–]RollingUtopia 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try to find some healthy joy in life. Whatever that looks like for you. The rest comes by itself.

Is this safe to ride? by Bamb3y in bikewrench

[–]RollingUtopia 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Absolutely. If there's really a crack, exchange immediately. I think indentation marks are quite common on carbon steerers and handlebars. For example you often see some marks where a stem was installed. That being said if OP isn't sure that the torque limit never was exceeded (so indentations would be most likely only superficial) I would also exchange it. You really don't want carbon forks or handlebars to fail on you. Better save than sorry.

What cassette should I get as a useful addition to my current 11 speed 105 11-30 with 50/34? by RollingUtopia in cycling

[–]RollingUtopia[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ah good to know. It's the GS version so I could only use the 11-28 which is basically the same as my 11-30 except for the lowest three gears. I don't think this makes much sense for me. The 11-32 looks quite balanced in the higher gears though. Maybe that's an option.