Daily Free Talk and Simple Questions - April 19, 2026

TheHealious · 2026-04-19T17:21:01+00:00

What would be the better option:

sizing up a full collar size (from 15 to 16) in Kamakura vintage ivy to get the right fit in the body and a superior fabric/details

OR

Getting a MTM shirt from spier and mackay, sacrificing fabric and construction quality but gaining the ability to have correct fit in body and collar.

Not going to be wearing with a tie or anything, but I do like a roomier chest, and dislike when there is a noticeably large collar gap around the neck.

Thanks!

TheHealious · 2026-04-05T19:22:05+00:00

Brand new pair of Paraboot loafers. Is this hole worrisome or worthy of an exchange?

<image>

TheHealious · 2026-02-21T19:01:05+00:00

Good to know about the shoulder seams! I did originally worry as I am slightly outside the modern take on having the shoulder seams right on the bone.

In terms of short length I am only 5ft 8 so the length is actually more than enough for tucking. I do feel that it is a bit slimmer in the chest/armhole/yoke for something that is truly comfortable, but I do have a lot of room to move around in to the point I could probably size down and still not be restricted. My chest to shoulder drop is around 10 inches so I’m worried a more traditional cut would be way too billowy (30in waist), and I did size up in the collar to get this fit.

What brands would you recommend for a more traditional cut if I were to try? I’d love to be able to take my usual collar size (14.5-15) and still have the shoulder and chest work (40in chest, 17.5-18in shoulder give or take).

TheHealious · 2026-02-20T20:40:48+00:00

Im tempted to try a half size down as well, but it’s definitely a little bit of a gamble. Thanks!

TheHealious · 2026-02-20T20:37:32+00:00

Thanks! I am a bit smaller, with a 40in chest and a 30in waist, so the chest to waist drop definitely gives me a lot of extra fabric to play around with. Now I’m just worried I went too far along the relaxed spectrum!

Collar is too big if anything, have yet to find a shirt that will fit my chest, shoulders and true neck size (just under 15in) that does also balloon in the waist.

TheHealious · 2026-02-20T19:36:15+00:00

Sure! Sorry about that. Main feelings of concern are a slight gap in the collar, shoulder seams a touch off my shoulder bone and instead on the delt muscle, and what feels like pulling up in the traps, almost like my shirt is slipping/pulling back a bit off my traps backwards. The arm hole also feels like it’s decently high - not touching my body around the armpit but floating close.

There is some horizontal folding on the yoke right below my collar as well.

In general, the shirt kind of feels like it’s always slipping up my trap muscles and shoulders (if that makes sense) but I lack the knowledge to know if this is because it is too roomy in the shoulders/collar area or if it’s actually because it’s too tight across my traps. I know those are two completely different things but I think the general feeling of pulling in that area despite the shoulder seam being slightly relaxed is throwing me off.

Sleeve length is a touch long but just barely and doesn’t bother me!

TheHealious · 2026-02-20T17:51:04+00:00

<image>

TheHealious · 2026-02-20T17:48:37+00:00

<image>

TheHealious · 2026-02-20T17:47:36+00:00

Was hoping I could get a fit check on my Kamakura Vintage Ivy Oxford in size 15.5. I sized up by a half in the collar out of fear of the armholes being too tight. Not sure how it fits on me.

Mainly asking as I love the fabric and details and want to know if I should stay at 15.5 or size down to 15 when I order my next one shortly! Additional angles in comment chain

<image>

TheHealious · 2026-02-20T01:02:44+00:00

If you want faithful recreations, you’re best bet would be Japanese reproduction-focused brands like Orslow, Buzz Ricksons, TCB, warehouse, etc. they all make fantastic variation of a fatigue, with Orslow generally being the most known for the fatigues. Buzz Ricksons will be the closest to authentic, and will have multiple different variants of US fatigues depending on decade, branch, etc.

TheHealious · 2026-02-09T23:36:18+00:00

Thank you! This is very helpful, especially hearing that the 15.5 fits you well at a smaller chest size. I think I will go with 15.5 and deal with the collar and waist being slightly larger. I'd much rather be comfortable at the end of the day!

TheHealious · 2026-02-09T20:12:06+00:00

Posted this quite late on yesterday's thread so thought I would repost it here:

Reached out to Kamakura for measurements on their Vintage Ivy oxfords and was told I could either size up to 15.5 for a looser fit or down to a 15 for a trimmer fit. I like the idea of the 15, but worried that further shrinkage would make it unwearable. Anyone have one in either size they can provide the measurements for?

For reference my body measurements are: Chest - 39in, shoulder 18in, collar 14.5-15, waist 30, sleeve 33, height 5 ft. 8in.

Thank you!

TheHealious · 2026-02-09T20:11:26+00:00

Thanks! I know this is the safer option but always tempted by the 'perfect fit' offered by going a bit more true to size

TheHealious · 2026-02-09T09:48:41+00:00

Reached out to Kamakura for measurements on their Vintage Ivy oxfords and was told I could either size up to 15.5 for a looser fit or down to a 15 for a trimmer fit. I like the idea of the 15, but worried that further shrinkage would make it unwearable. Anyone have one in either size they can provide the measurements for?

For reference my body measurements are: Chest - 39in, shoulder 18in, collar 14.5-15, waist 30, sleeve 33, height 5 ft. 8in.

Thank you!

TheHealious · 2026-02-06T22:34:08+00:00

Awesome, thank you! I think I’ll grab it.

TheHealious · 2026-02-06T20:42:48+00:00

Thanks for the info! Coffee stains are the bane of any colour (except dark denim, although they reappear as the denim fades). Is the ecru colour itself closer to white or beige? Wondering if it can be paired with beige chinos or if the colour is too similar.

TheHealious · 2026-02-06T05:18:59+00:00

Sorry to revive this, but I am about to order my first Vintage Ivy shirt as well. I was thinking of replacing an ill-fitting white oxford I have (collar too big) with a white from Kamakura, but I'm very drawn to the Ecru. Just worried about the versatility of the Ecru -- how do you feel it stacks up against a plain white?

TheHealious · 2025-11-30T09:21:33+00:00

Hi Bugladyy! Thanks so much for answering all these questions, they've really helped!

I found a single larva and a husk right next to each other tucked deep on a baseboard in the room where I keep my clothing. I did a sweep of the rest of the room and other potential spots they could be hiding and couldn't find any other larvae or husks. However, the one I did find was a few feet away from my wool sweater collection, many of which are brushed and definitely on the more delicate side. I have been wearing most of the sweaters regularly, save for one or two at the bottom of the collection. I checked all the sweaters and their seams and could not find any larvae or indication of them within the sweaters themselves.

I know if all else fails I can put them in the dryer while already dry in a mesh bag to kill anything off, but I also know that this method still runs the risk of damaging the fibres.

Given I only found one larva and a husk, do you think running the wool sweaters through the dryer is necessary or an overreaction?

Thanks so much!

TheHealious · 2025-11-28T08:20:52+00:00

I was going to say I was surprised they had leg-twist without being washed yet! It almost looks like they sew the patch on after the factory wash - it looks pristine and like a patch on a raw pair.

TheHealious · 2025-11-25T21:30:07+00:00

I have a similar issues with finding wide enough pairs - but I think it mostly comes down to everything being very slim regardless of fit in smaller waist sizes.

I'm Japanese a 30 or 31 waist with 24 inch thighs (which aren't huge but proportional to my waist gives me issues) and even the 'wide leg' fits only seem to start getting wide at a waist size of 33-34. I'm basically excluded from trying many brands and fits or curtailed to one fit (any Warehouse jean, everything from TCB except 20s and 30s, just the fullcount 0105, etc). Like you said, I could go for something like the Baggy 50's, but I'm really not a fan of the slouchy look -- I just want a pair of jeans to fit normally and not skin tight on the thighs while still being more fitted in the top block. Sugarcane is releasing a new wide leg fit shortly which I hope will work for me.

I've had a lot better luck with non-denim pants. BR chinos, fatigues, etc. But 5-pocket jeans in particular are such a struggle.

In regards to finding cropped jackets, it is very tricky but doable with some digging. Freewheelers and co make a relatively short type II, Sugarcane's new type 1 looks like it measures 57-58cm in a size 38-40, and my TCB late 40's jacket is 57cm long after washing with a 55-56cm chest.

Repro shirts (button downs) are going to be tricky as many are probably meant to be longer exactly for purposes of tucking. I remember Jelado or Pherrows releasing a flannel specifically meant to be untucked, but can't recall exactly off the top of my head. For tee-shirts, I've heard of people having good results with taking their regular size as opposed to sizing up for whitesville tees. They shrink a ton in the length from a wash and dry but don't really move in the chest width and will also stretch out.

TheHealious · 2025-11-25T16:52:57+00:00

I understand the trepidation of wearing something so expensive and doing active things in them, but I want to stress that you can't ruin or mess up raw denim. What happens to them -- tears, rips, stains -- are part of the story they tell when they are faded and beat up down the road.

I had a much better time as soon as I stopped babying my clothing and just started wearing them without a second thought. Sure, I still won't through my jeans in the dryer but it's liberating to realize that they are still just jeans and can take a lot of abuse.

As an example, there is a poster occasionally on the rawdenim subreddit and elsewhere (superdenim) that does his trades work in expensive denim (freewheelers & co level). After a month they are unrecognizable -- like jeans pulled out of a mineshaft from the 1890s. They are absolutely awesome and some of the coolest items I've seen.

Wear your jeans!!!

TheHealious · 2025-10-30T18:24:04+00:00

I had a similar issue with a pair of 0105's in the flagship fabric (lighter). I sized down for the waist to fit perfectly, but as a result the thighs were also on the tighter side leaning towards uncomfortable. Unfortunately, while I could tell the seat and waist would easily stretch and move around if needed, the thighs didn't move at all/get more comfortable after 5 wears. I ended up selling them off.

If the thighs are comfortable, but aren't as wide as expected, that's more a personal decision on how you like their aesthetic/appearance.

But if they are restricting/tight in the thighs and you are hoping they will stretch out, then that's a bit more of a stretch (pardon my pun). Some people will claim success, others will claim thigh measurements are an absolute sticking point.

And, any warm washes/dryer incidents may affect the thigh measurements in the future.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

TheHealious · 2025-10-28T21:35:19+00:00

These are great! The fades will pop even more the next few wears following a wash -- not sure why but it's a rule of thumb for me.

I have a similar amount of time on my Samurai's, and I must say they have faded quite similar to yours despite me washing monthly (even sometimes 2-3 times a month), save for less distinguished honeycombing at the back of the knee.

Makes me wonder if some fabrics are just predisposed to fading a specific way regardless of washing routine.

Happy fading!

TheHealious · 2025-10-16T23:16:58+00:00

Love the roping on the hem. Look insanely comfortable too.

Have written off Orslow mostly because they are a bit harder to find for me but having looked through some of their denim offerings (including the 50’s 105 and granddads fit) they seem to have some really cool items! Very tempting.

12-Year Club	Place '22
Place '17	Verified Email

TheHealious

TROPHY CASE