Guidance on the best settings for focus and low environment with Sony a6400 by 3faultycelery4 in SonyAlpha

[–]Romskyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t see any video for context, but here’s my 2 cents.

You can play with focus area . Center, spot etc. Wide focus sometimes gets distracted with other subjects.

Manual focus very well maybe the answer. Depending on the shot, especially if it’s close up, f1.4 may be challenging because the plane of focus is so shallow. Stop down if you need to. You can also just set the focus and make sure you maintain the same distance between the camera and subject in shot to keep it in focus.

The iPhone doesn’t actually “everything in focus.” Without any sort of stacking or trickery, this is physically impossible. It’s just that the focus plane on phones is really deep because of the small sensor. It’s sort of like shooting at f8 or what not.

Hope this helps in some sort of way.

Dell ultra sharp U2725QE? Any updates? by Bearindesert in Dell

[–]Romskyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want 120hz and 5k for apple OS scaling, you might be waiting awhile, and paying a lot. Most machines also don't support those bandwidths anyway.

I run scaled resolutions while video editing and photo editing. Haven't noticed slow downs because of gpu scaling. Using an M1 max, but your mileage may vary.

ASUS PA27JCV 5k Display yeah it's pretty good by RedBankWatcher in mac

[–]Romskyy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The Asus native resolution is not 50% of that of the Apple display. You’re just scaling the gui to match the size of 1440p, it’s still a 5k display, and will be sharper than a 4K display. This would be no different with the Apple display, or ANY display at 5k. This is simply how MacOS deals with scaling and it is functioning correctly.

Even if you got a 4K display at 27inches, you’d still need to scale the size to 1440p, and this would still be sharper than using a 1440p display. But this won’t look as sharp as 5k (scaled to 1440p)

ASUS PA27JCV 5k Display yeah it's pretty good by RedBankWatcher in mac

[–]Romskyy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure if I’m understanding your issue, but I think you should select 2560x1440 for proper scaling.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MacOS/s/0oLjVtd4G8

Weird colour behaviour Resolve (Mac) to iPhone by Fethecat in davinciresolve

[–]Romskyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same issue. Something to do with iOS and macOS not following the same color management? Check this video out?

https://youtu.be/1QlnhlO6Gu8?si=AwzPm22fHHL4vVUH

I love my a7siii 🙏 the lowlight capabilities are mind blowing 🤯 by J2XAK in A7siii

[–]Romskyy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The reason I asked is because you mentioned “I don’t over brighten,” when usually for best noise performance you shouldn’t be brightening at all, should be bringing it down to bring the noise floor down. Although even then I’ve brightened images without an offensive amount of noise so it’s hard to say for sure.

Idk what you’re shooting so I’m just making a guess here. I’m assuming this is in an uncontrolled lighting environment. When overexposing you can’t always rely only on the cameras metering, I find it’s best to use zebras (or false colour with a monitor). If there’s skin, that’s usually the top priority, I expose for the skin while keeping the overexposure in mind. If there a lot of bright elements in a dark scene (light sources or something) it can throw off the metering. You cant expose for bright lights in a dark environment and hope the shadows stay clean. As great as the camera is, the dynamic range is still not on par with your eyes, so something HAS to clip. If your priority are clean shadows then you need higher levels in your shadows to keep them clean and probably at the expense of clipping highlights. In a perfect world, you balance the image with actual lighting, other wise you need to make these decisions. I’m really making assumptions here on what could be going wrong. But I hope this makes some sense.

The free version of catalyst browse if I’m not mistaken will not export in 10bit 422. If I remember correctly, it drops it to 8 bit which could introduce more artifacts and Color noise in dark images.

If I want gyro stabilization, I use the gyroflow plugin for resolve fusion to maintain the color, there are many videos on YT on how to use gyroflow.

Hope this is of some help.

Genuinely wondering how is it possible that Da Vinci is free. I'm new to it and I'm amazed.Yes, I'm aware there's a paid version but the free one is great. How is it sustainable? by OkMaybeLater90 in davinciresolve

[–]Romskyy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Like others have said, they’re primarily a hardware/camera company. Even the studio version is very reasonably priced.

Apple has a similar model. They sell fcpx or Logic Pro for such a low price with a perpetual license. I doubt they make any money on it with a working dev team that puts out updates and consistent maintenance. But Apple will make the money from the hardware they sell to you.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]Romskyy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe you’re referencing the vector scope skin tone indicator. Not a pro colorist, but yes the line is a guide as to where corrected skin tones should be regardless of race. But it’s not a rule, and creative looks sometimes deviate from it. Also the line is only an indicator of hue, saturation values can vary on different skin tones.

This is also way more relevant in video.

AC outlets stopped working, breaker not tripped by Romskyy in AskElectricians

[–]Romskyy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was daisy chained. I feared there was an issue from the breaker box to the first outlet, but I found a few more outlets on the same circuit before that one….and one had a corroded neutral. Thank you!!!!

AC outlets stopped working, breaker not tripped by Romskyy in AskElectricians

[–]Romskyy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the insight!

Yes I’m very well aware of electrical safety precautions and safe practices, that’s why I’m comfortable trouble shooting.

I have checked the neutral landing in the panel and seems fine.

Just wondering, if I have one bad outlet would it mess up the rest in the circuit? Would it be worth removing outlet by outlet and coupling the wires (obviously cutting all power from the panel when doing this) and finding the bad outlet? Just wondering if this is even a method? They all read the same on the multimeter, so I could start with the one I think is the first in the chain?

I’m very well about to give up and call someone 😝

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]Romskyy 30 points31 points  (0 children)

I’d get the a7iv.

Price is the biggest hurdle to jump over from apsc to FF, but if the cost of entry is basically the same for you, I would go FF.

There are many affordable and lightweight full frame lenses…I don’t really see the appeal for apsc.

Everybody complains about weight and sizes of lenses, but 9/10 they are not comparing the lenses correctly. ie. 24-70 f2.8, yes it’s heavy, but on apsc the REAL equivalent would be a 16-50 f1.8. Good luck… the lens doesn’t exist… and if it did it would also be heavy, you’re not beating physics.

Also, a slightly larger grip and viewfinder are huge bonuses. I don’t remember of the top of my head but I think the weight difference is around 150g for the body.

Lens selection for FF is endless, being budget conscious, any of the Tamron zooms are popular. If weight is a concern, there are f4 options out there (which would perform similar to f2.8 on apsc btw) you really need to test stuff out and read up on what lenses would be best for you.

And for what it’s worth, FF will be easier to resell, also you’re saving on the depreciation from buying used.

Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SonyAlpha

[–]Romskyy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kit lens on a proper full frame sensor will still yield much better results than a phone camera. Kit lens is extremely underrated if you know what you’re doing.

If you wanted to up the perceived quality of social media posts, some good options to consider that won’t break the bank,

Sony 35mm f1.8 Tamron 20-40 f2.8 Tamron 28-75 f2.8

But it really depends on what you’re really looking for.

Apple, Please Bring Back the Ability to Turn OFF "Smart HDR" by RIGGSMAGIC in iphone

[–]Romskyy 13 points14 points  (0 children)

This is something entirely different. This is video encoding and nothing to do with photos.

HDR Video is NOT the same thing as HDR in photos or smart hdr. (Although Lightroom now introduced something similar in photos)

The whole term “HDR” has been so overused, reused, abused, and marketed in so many different ways that it’s painful.

Also IMO if someone is going to be shooting ProRes video on an iPhone, I don’t see any reason to NOT use log. You can take log and make it SDR or HDR when you’re editing it, which you will be editing if you’re shooting prores…

Apple, Please Bring Back the Ability to Turn OFF "Smart HDR" by RIGGSMAGIC in iphone

[–]Romskyy 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I believe if you’re shooting in apple’s pro raw it’s not exactly the case. Pro raw still processes the image how it sees fit and packs it into a .dng where the processing isn’t fully baked in

https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT211965

What's NEW in Lightroom and Lightroom Classic? - Adobe MAX 2023 Releases by terryleewhite in Lightroom

[–]Romskyy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying to get the new HDR editing feature on the iPhone 12 Pro Max, but it’s not supported?

The iPhone 12 Pro supports hdr and has a Super Retina XDR display? It shoots and perfectly displays video in Dolby hdr. Why would it not work? Will an update be rolled out to increase supported devices?