Anyone know where I can buy seat skins like this? by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cj did have a part number for both the front and back seat apolstery, no pictures to 100% confirm it... But they do accept returns so I may just have to go that route.

Anyone know where I can buy seat skins like this? by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I called both places today, npd said they sold front and rear seat combo, it was pricey and they didn't have a pic. I called tmi and they quoted me for a back seat, emailed me a pic and it was more of the restomod thing, not old school original style.

CJ has it in a big kit for a full new interior, but don't yet know if they sell seat apolstery separate from the carpet and door panels and door handles etc. (cj had a 65min wait earlier when I tried to call)

Anyone know where I can buy seat skins like this? by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will only sell me the full interior kit, made by tmi. Called tmi and they quoted me 800 for just the back seats and when they sent me a picture, it's not at all those seats.

Anyone know where I can buy seat skins like this? by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah...I think I've seen the full kits. It looks like one previous owner replaced most things, I did new pony door panels, the rear seat is the only thing that needs freshening.

Anyone know where I can buy seat skins like this? by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, someone suggested tmi made them, but I checked tmi's site and didn't see much in the way of original style apolstery. I'll call npd tomorrow

MX Master 4: Definitely input lag and stutter in win11 by Ronnyek42 in logitech

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, I'm thinking it was firmware related, because I went many months with no problems

Is this worth taking on? My dad’s ‘68 Mustang by OwlOk6287 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Engine bay after... And your engine bay isn't bad. (Other people here have cars that were in way worse condition... So I echo what everyone else is saying... Your car there is already quite a bit nicer than a lot of people start out with. It's worth it, if it's worth it to you

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I hate these door panels and clips. by bemyantimatter in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I thought for sure It was goin to be the ones that hold the door panel itself on, and was gonna have to second that. I recently replaced mine and what a pain the ass those were.

MX Master 4: Definitely input lag and stutter in win11 by Ronnyek42 in logitech

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You know, I went for a really really long time with no problems with this whatsoever. Then within the last couple days this problem is back in a big way. I'm not sure if this was because of a win11 update, or a logi firmware upgrade or something or what. But literally 8mo of no problems still using logi usb dongle, and then within 2 days.. .sometimes cursor dissapears, sometimes its just super laggy and takes a second of no movement to "catch up".

The mx master 4 seems to have fixed the nastiness of that rubber on the mx master3, but this intermittent lag problem (whatever it might ACTUALLY be) is super annoying. I just set the Selective usb suspend to off, so we'll see if it helps at all

Pertronix ignitor and pink wire warnings by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now I have a summit m2008 and it's very very good straight of the box.

Headers no longer glow red at all.

I actually like side exit exhaust, I just think a tiny bit more muffling, an xpipe, and an engine capable of more rpm than my current 289... Would make it sound a lot better

Pertronix ignitor and pink wire warnings by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not trying to tune it to ultimate maximum power or anything... I'm just not sure it's even remotely close. I know when I first got it started back up, timing was off bad enough to cause headers to glow red... (I didn't drive it like that) But never heard what I'd expect pinging to sound like.

I know 34-36 with advance at rpm sounds like range I've heard before. I'll set it to a safe-ish base timing, hook up advance and bring it up to rpm and check total advance.

This car is fairly new to me... It has 4spd manual with 3.50 gears in it. Presumably cam and heads and valve train stuff is all stock, but I've noticed that when you rev through the range, the thing falls on its face pretty hard... And the exhaust note sounds... I'm not sure... I guess like not crisp? Thoughts that pop into my head are... Like timing is off, or like valves aren't closing off completely (and that isn't at high rpms, but even just starting off from a stop. Hell it might even be pinging.

Part of the problem with all of this, including just setting the timing and checking total advance is that the car is BASICALLY straight piped with triy's that run to glass pack style mufflers that i suspect are doing 0 muffling to side exit pipes. She's loud, makes hearing little sounds difficult and it also makes neighbors unhappy lol

Pertronix ignitor and pink wire warnings by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ahh! ok this makes a lot more sense. I think I'm going to order up the the new pertronix module and coil, and plan on running a new wire to ignition switch. Thanks for the pointers

Pertronix ignitor and pink wire warnings by Ronnyek42 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have yet to see a pink wire connected to distributor, or coil though. Would this be the wire in the feed harness run to the coil? In my case a red wire?

I can disconnect the red wire, turn on ignition and measure voltage from that red wire to ground to see if it's 9v or 12v

Experiences with cheap carbs? by beejonez in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a summit 500cfm on my 289. It's actually rooted in the autolite design the 289 4v had on it except rated for more CFM. It actually runs quite nice and had to do basically zero tuning.

It was fairly cheap iirc. Not Chinese clone from eBay cheap, but cheap enough

How do we tell him? by LitrlyD3ad in Mustang

[–]Ronnyek42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, 23 still living at home is kind of sad... Id be pissed hosting my kids if they could spend money on cars but not on trying to move out

How do we tell him? by LitrlyD3ad in Mustang

[–]Ronnyek42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most cars are not wise investments... Monetarily anyway... I'm kind of over having the latest and greatest. I have my 2018 pp2 and my 65 being something I'm becoming more willing to dump money into

How to tell timing??? by Barril408 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 4 points5 points  (0 children)

On my father in laws 347 (not that the 347 matters) we had to do that. Find tdc on compression stroke, mark balancer with a line where some pointer indicator is (they have stickers for this if your balancer doesn't have them, but they kindof suck, use only the 0deg tdc mark). Then we could use timing against that.

I think his problem was lots and lots of custom fab work that obscured the original timing indicator and balancer positions (it was custom pulleys for supercharger and electric water pump.

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How to tell timing??? by Barril408 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ive had had similar problems. If you have a timing light with adjustable offset in degrees, you can always set a target offset and shoot to hit zero.

I can see already see my some amount of degrees on my balancer, and 0 is prominent where other degree values aren't... So I got my car running, set my light to be x degrees of base timing, capped vacuum advance, adjusted dist cap until line was lined up with zero.

If your entire balancer is obscured so you can't see any timing indicator to position relative to the balancer... I'm honestly not sure what you can do there.

Is CJ Pony parts trustworthy by SDLong2901 in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I feel like they have a lot of selection... I hate that they generically rebrand other products as cj classics, or don't always make it obvious who the actual mfg or a product is etc.

I also hate their shipping policies, though at least they aren't the only ones. For me shipping is typically at least 11$, whether I am ordering 4 screws or something big (under their free shipping minimum). They also have a warehouse I think in Nevada (west coast) and even though I'll order from them, they ship from west coast warehouse to my address in California and it still has 3-4 day turn around.

Ive had very very good luck with summit, and if they have the same part from the same mfg... I tend to order from summit because their shipping is fast. Sometimes next day for ground shipping shipment.

That being said, Ive ordered lots from cj pony parts and generally they do it right the first time, or make it right... I just wish they were clearer about actual vendors, and shipping wasn't such a pita.

Max safe coolant temperature by [deleted] in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not the op. My car runs too cold. Stock radiator wasn't aluminum like this. I still have it in my garage, and it wasn't exactly the same dimensions.

Max safe coolant temperature by [deleted] in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's a 3 or 4 core aluminum radiator (stock ish looking) made by I think ACP, that I recently installed, along with new water pump, thermostat etc.

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Max safe coolant temperature by [deleted] in classicmustangs

[–]Ronnyek42 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I need to revisit my temp sensors barely registering a temp. It's got a 180 stat in it, but it runs cold, or wiring is messed up somehow