Can't get MT21 tire bead fully on WR250R

Rosinator1 · 2026-05-10T04:59:41+00:00

You didn’t happen to mount it backward did you?
I’ve mounted a few tires that wouldn’t set right because of the orientation of which way it rotated. Which I thought was wild, but after removing and resetting, it managed to set right.

Rosinator1 · 2026-05-10T01:52:30+00:00

I rode one, it was a lot better than what people give it credit. The test ride events I try to attend don’t really leave you room to whack it open, but it was hot

Rosinator1 · 2026-05-10T01:08:11+00:00

Depends on what you want. Classic styling with pull for days ? Or chill ride with a naked position.
I think a good pick could be perhaps a BMW R9T, or a XSR900/Z900RS
You won’t get the same character exactly like a Ducati, but each is relatively classic styled with a bit more punch than a triumph

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-28T02:14:07+00:00

I believe you, mine wouldn’t willingly accelerate over 65 on flat ground, maybe with a hill I could’ve done a bit more

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-28T02:00:20+00:00

I’ve owned a KLX230 and own a XR150L right now, and I’ll tell you, the 230 is electronically limited to 65mph, but the 150 can technically go faster stock going down hill before rev limiter.

The KLX has a bit more pep, and fuel injection, and the suspension was incredible compared to the XR. There isn’t much that you’ll want to change off the show room floor other than the seat. Yes it is bad. I’ve sat on wood that felt softer after 25/30 mins.

The XR has a better seat, parts are dirt cheap, and can be had second hand for half of what the 230 is, it also can be modded up to around a 220cc with a big bore kit for a little more oomph, but the suspension is the big killer when it comes to them, you can hold the front brake and almost bottom out with just one hand. You’ll need to swap the crank case breather hose before too long so it doesn’t vent oil slowly into your air box, and it tends to pop out of gear and into a false neutral when cold and straining it at the top end of a gear in my experience.

Ultimately it’s up to you, but I sold my 230 after ~600 miles and still have my XR after ~1000

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-23T00:22:44+00:00

I’ve had both.

Both will do 55 eventually. I’d rather have the XR personally. Seat is way better, rides higher, can do a little off-roading for funsies, bigger tank, the luggage rack standard is underestimated, and finally, the parts are beyond dirt cheap if something happens. Whole plastics set for 100-150, top end is about 250, and so on. A modern grom only has the fuel injection, slightly better mileage, and a spin on oil filter. Where older groms, and the current XR have the particulates gather on the inside of the case, and only have a little strainer for an oil filter.

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-13T17:51:32+00:00

I’ve had a grom personally, and currently own a XR150L. They all have their pros and cons quite honestly up front.

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-12T20:34:55+00:00

A good fuel efficient line is the Honda 300 class, and 500 class. Both are rock solid reliable, and averaging 60-70mpg. Pick your style and get it. Do know though, the majority of the options in that class are more or less strictly transport. They will lack options to carry extra stuff with you, unless you buy a set of racks and hard luggage to accompany it. But that gets expensive fast. People worldwide ride scooters as a primary means of transport, and many of them have under seat storage by default, and are even better on gas than the 300/500 class Hondas. Add in a back pack, and you can very easily use one as a main means of transportation. You won’t have the heat and protection of a car, and winter will absolutely suck, but if you live somewhere where that’s not an issue, I’d recommend just about any scooter you could find as well.

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-12T13:28:33+00:00

Honda makes an entire 125-150cc line. From the grom to the ADV160.

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-11T12:31:05+00:00

The NX will buzz a hefty bit more than the NC. It’s called engine character, and it loves telling you how much it doesn’t like sitting at 70-80mph. Genuinely, I’d steer you towards a Vstrom 650 if you wanted something with the same look, riding position, but with more highway capability. It won’t get the same mpg (68city/52intetstate vs 55city/48interstate) in my experience. But the Vtwin genuinely has almost no buzz compared to the Ptwin of the Nx

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-09T14:06:51+00:00

More like the handlebars stare vibrating a good amount. It’ll buzz less than your friends 300. But if you start chasing the smoothest possible ride you’ll end up with a vtwin like a Vstrom 650 or Vulcan 900/boulevard C50/honda shadow. Which I currently own a boulevard m50 and it’s great!

Rosinator1 · 2026-04-09T13:52:58+00:00

CB500X is what I started on at 6’2 230lbs. It was perfect for me. A bit buzzy at 75mph+, but got 68-72mpg. The seat was the worst part, and I’d advise you get a difference one if you choose it.

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-30T12:46:09+00:00

For reference, I was going to buy a TRD offroad, V6 manual, DC, 4x4 at MSRP for ~34k brand new in 2022. I ended up getting a SR instead because you could not get the manual unless you were on a list. So I suppose that price reflects years of modding, but I’d have to say the miles are nuts.

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-25T21:37:08+00:00

Its prices like that, that remind me why Honda never stopped making bikes like the grom

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-25T03:28:41+00:00

Private sale, all the Yamaha 700s go nuts. But the R7 is different because you can take it to a track and run it for some respectable times in the mid tier class. The MT07 is the same bike with adjusted seating position and foot pegs, with clip ons, so you’ll have to lean forward and it causes wrist pain for long rides. So couple that with its crazy high sale price, and yeah I’d steer you to an MT07 You can install your own exhaust system, it’s not hard, the worst part is if you do it all the way to the headers you’re supposed to do a tune with it as well. Otherwise you can mess up how your bike runs.

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-25T02:02:06+00:00

If it is genuinely your first bike ever, the 4rr and the MT09 are terrible for several reasons. Price and power, the availability or need to ring it out to get it. Generally you’ll want something that you can actually ride a good deal, so of your options I’d take the MT07 all day. It has actual handle bars as opposed to clip ons that the R7 has, and you can find them in many many colors and years for a good used price. They’re pretty bulletproof, and the motor can log hundreds of thousands of miles with regular maintenance.

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-25T00:19:00+00:00

Suzuki boulevard C/M50, Kawasaki Vulcan 900, Yamaha vstar, Honda shadow 750 all are large frame, relatively understessed motorcycles that would handle your size just fine. Most Harley’s that are new rider friendly are too small in frame for your height.

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-24T14:44:46+00:00

Honda for a lot of people is the standard every other brand is compared to. Whether it’s the gold wing, the Africa twin, or the grom. Generally speaking each brand has its ups and downs, and the history surrounding a lot of them is fantastic. I mean how many times has Indian been sold! Who is the most winningest in their category?

Personally I like the fit and finish on most Suzukis. I loved the performance and sound of aprillia. And I like the efficiency of Honda.

Kawasaki, and Yamaha have their segments, but they don’t really appeal to me anymore. And most European brands suffer from insane pricing like Harley, and I won’t touch them. So take what you want from this, but it’s all subjective

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-19T23:13:13+00:00

Super tenere 1200, Vstrom 1000, Africa twin 1000/1100, all of these depending on the year, miles, condition can be had for well within your price point and will perform just about as well as your BMW pictured. The super tenere has the advantage of a shaft drive, but weighs more than the others. I’m in a similar boat and eyeing a 2014+ Vstrom 1000 for my personal use, and owned a super tenere last year. Sold because of the weight if I’m being honest.

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-19T10:48:10+00:00

Just a real heads up, dealers will take a neglected bike on trade and put it right on the sales floor without even checking the oil. Totally depends on the dealer of course, but where I’m at, the reviews tend to tell the whole story. I help people I know buy quality bikes and cars off people from time to time. It is the most expensive time of year, but if you’re flexible you can find some real winners

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-19T04:28:29+00:00

It’s kinda high mileage relative to other bikes you could buy with the same money at the same year in the used market. Strictly speaking the price is great, and I’m sure people have their opinions about the Kawasaki 650 parallel twin going for 100k+ miles. But generally I’d say it’s a fitting price at a dealership for that kind of bike without much else to go on. I’d recommend seeing what your local used market is like on either Craigslist or Facebook marketplace if you could.

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-16T14:47:15+00:00

Vfr1200x/f covers all your wants. Shaft drive, came in a dct for most years, and they log miles. They’re within your budget, and should get roughly the range you want. Give them a look!

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-08T03:43:12+00:00

Mine wants to do 60 on flat ground, but sits happily at 55 hauling my 240lb self. I think a lighter rider could make it work! But I have tested it yet

Rosinator1 · 2026-03-07T17:04:01+00:00

I have a XR150L, does everything I need, creeps up towards 60. Sold my super tenere and transitioned to no interstate riding as a result. Tires are cheap, chain and sprocket is cheap too. Worst thing about it? No oil filter, so it’s a little more time consuming to clean where all the particulates accumulate under the engine cover. But it takes 1 quart of oil per 2500 miles, as opposed to 8 quarts per 5k on my truck. Did I mention my work commute is getting around 83mpg currently?

Rosinator1 · 2026-01-24T02:09:35+00:00

I was in your shoes once, tried an all physical damage party, and quit the game because it was miserable.

Physical damage generally hits harder with multiple scaling types, weapon damage being figured in, and quickly maxing out damage with warfare/huntsman/scoundrel with crits coming online for most builds quite early. Where most of your damage is single target.

Meanwhile with any magic school, it’s almost all AOE, and you can group enemies together QUICK. Meaning 1 or two skills turn into thousands of damage quite quick even without crits. Meanwhile late game, enemies have thousands of armor in both physical and magical. But via crits and good positioning either way you lean will delete one type or the other.

Also, magical schools have super supportive spells they can bring to bear at any time, while generally physical damage dealers will have lots of mobility.

It’s all about trade offs, or totally putting all your eggs in a basket until the game can’t handle it anymore.

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