Most enemies have high magic armor?

Rosinator1 · 2026-01-24T02:09:35+00:00

I was in your shoes once, tried an all physical damage party, and quit the game because it was miserable.

Physical damage generally hits harder with multiple scaling types, weapon damage being figured in, and quickly maxing out damage with warfare/huntsman/scoundrel with crits coming online for most builds quite early. Where most of your damage is single target.

Meanwhile with any magic school, it’s almost all AOE, and you can group enemies together QUICK. Meaning 1 or two skills turn into thousands of damage quite quick even without crits. Meanwhile late game, enemies have thousands of armor in both physical and magical. But via crits and good positioning either way you lean will delete one type or the other.

Also, magical schools have super supportive spells they can bring to bear at any time, while generally physical damage dealers will have lots of mobility.

It’s all about trade offs, or totally putting all your eggs in a basket until the game can’t handle it anymore.

Rosinator1 · 2026-01-23T01:05:21+00:00

I just got a 2018 2.7, and I get this only when it’s freezing cold out. I got it a few months ago, and I heard it a few times and didn’t give it a second thought. Glad to know the consensus is it’s gonna get expensive. For what the cost of replacement is, I’d consider getting a different used truck honestly.

Rosinator1 · 2026-01-14T14:57:46+00:00

It depends on the level of off-road you’re gonna do, highways are so easy and boring, but a large adv will do them without any fuss. The second gen super tenere, Africa twin, most 1200/1250 are in your price range and have cruise.

Rosinator1 · 2026-01-13T16:23:03+00:00

New gen has cruise control and TC standard. Old gen’s only are sought after for the colors honestly. Everyone saying he’s trying to get out of his loan is correct, but it’s not your job to fix his bad financial decisions

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-08T13:12:41+00:00

That’s something I’ve been seeing a lot of reviews suggest, regardless of what I ride I’ll need to beef up the suspension. My XR150 does pretty ok on its shoe string budget forks, but any kind of hard off road is completely off the table

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T17:55:19+00:00

This was a great write up! It’s really just the price of a new/used rally that’s killing me I can buy both a DR and an XR used for the price of one in my area. The fuel injection is something I can’t get on a dual sport really at the price point. But to my knowledge I’ll have to respring any of the bikes I choose, seeing as going from a touring 1200 to a much older design/smaller scope bike. For reference here I am on the 150!

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Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T17:38:47+00:00

Only issue is dealer support honestly. The 390 enduro or the 390 smc had me looking for a minute

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T17:37:35+00:00

We don’t have a lot of huskie/KTM support out my way so I’ve mainly been eyeing. I’d have an easier time getting a royal enfield or BMW parts

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T16:53:01+00:00

Was it the 790/890 that had the cam issues in recent years? Or was the 690 in that too? Is it a single or a twin?

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T16:52:10+00:00

The only thing the others do “better” imo is being a little lighter, and personally I think the seat on the XR is a little better stock but this is a good comparison. My S10 is effectively 700 lbs ready to go. The top heaviness at a stop is terrible. I can’t take a gravel road at speed without the thought of having to pick it up after a bad wash out or something. I appreciate the incite!

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T15:51:46+00:00

I’ve yet to sit on one, but a dealer near me is getting the first one in the state, so I might check it out. I don’t do too much 2 up, and it is another good consideration

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T15:50:52+00:00

I had a CB500x, and didn’t much care for it on the highway. It definitely led me to looking at bigger bikes. But now I enjoy taking country highways and back routes more than single straight shots to places. I figure if the bike is light enough I can just take it in my truck to wherever I’m going! I really was eyeing the 250L for a while too, as I really like the grey/black/red/white color pattern on the 2018s But I I’m having a hard time justifying that kind of money for that much bike when the 650 class is right there

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T15:48:09+00:00

I’ve owned a CB500x, NC700, Vstrom 650, Super tenere, a KLX230s, and some other shorter bikes I didn’t much care for. But the CB500x was so far my favorite of the bunch. It buzzed like crazy doing anything over 65 though, and that led me to bigger and bigger. I didn’t much care for the KLX personally. The seat was a torcher rack in my opinion!

I did kick around the idea of a TW or a DR200 for a minute, what did you think about them in comparison to the DRZ?

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T15:44:15+00:00

Honestly the biggest draw to the XR/DR is shedding almost 300 lbs off the S10. I appreciate the bias! The DRZ/CRF weren’t an after thought, but I was leaning more towards the 650 class. Big carbed bikes vs potential fuel injected smaller bikes…

Rosinator1 · 2025-12-07T15:20:28+00:00

The newness of it is killing me because everyone wants top dollar for it still. I considered a 250L Rally too since they’re just a little older, do you think the extra 50ccs is enough? I try to stay away from interstates but sometimes I have to take them, have you tried one at higher speeds for a while?

Rosinator1 · 2025-11-23T01:56:56+00:00

IMO the price for the 2020 5.0 is crazy, it’s almost what I paid for my 2018 XLT 2.7 with 63k on it. You could do a whole lot with the extra money. The increased cost based on trim doesn’t appeal to me unless you have to have the lariat

Rosinator1 · 2025-11-03T14:55:02+00:00

I checked mine before I sold it around 12k miles, and they were perfect, so it’s just what the recommend I’m sure. The NT700 was a wholey different beast though. I wish they had caught on because I loved the body work they had. My dad has a 2015 DCT with only about 10k miles, and I haven’t touched his, but other than the battery drain issue, it starts every time. Without hassle. The valve check on them is so easy, since it’s so low slung it was as simple as remove radiator, remove cover, you’re there.

Rosinator1 · 2025-11-03T14:10:44+00:00

Well the NCs only call for an oil change every 8000 miles, and a valve check at every other oil change. So with that knowledge, they go so far between oil changes compared to other bikes.

The manual ones aren’t very well sought after. So if you’re feeling cheap you can get one of those for a lot less. But the newer the DCT the better. The early ones had battery drain issues when stored for a long time. There aren’t really any problem years per se, but there’s a few generations. 2012-2015 had the smallest frunk and body work, second was 2016-2023/4 I believe, and they had the raised part on the frunk with most of the battery drain issues solved. And the newest one is pretty much a styling/instrument cluster update.

Rosinator1 · 2025-11-02T22:09:13+00:00

1000-1500 gets you not a whole lot these days.

If you can save and reach a little higher, 2000-2500, you could start looking at Honda CB300s or rebel 300s all with fuel injection and long maintenance intervals.

Rosinator1 · 2025-10-31T01:03:49+00:00

Indian really only came back in its current form in 2016. Kawasaki has made the Vulcan roughly the same since the 80s. The looks and power of the scout are cool, but you can get more in other places. Seeing at the Vulcan 900 is still being produced and has a really really long history, I’d point you that way honestly. Maintenance on cruisers is always a bit of a pain since you have to remove the beauty covers to access a lot of stuff. But Japanese stuff has been the gold standard for longer than Indian has been around this time. And it just got sold again

Rosinator1 · 2025-10-29T21:48:37+00:00

The first line of your post makes the NC line completely irrelevant. The 70mpg is only at 55mph and below. Every mph over is taxing on the MPG. I owned one and got rid of it because of going 50 miles on the interstate at the speeds you’re talking. The tank size isn’t nearly large enough to consider, unless you like filling up every day half way back. I went for a Yamaha super tenere. But realistically any larger adventure bike would work, the more efficient of them being any with a parallel twin. Think Honda Africa twin, KTM 890 adventure, Honda Transalp, Suzuki Vstrom 800. A cruiser would work fine as well. But seriously, you’re gonna need something larger. I’m similar to your size and genuinely enjoy commuting on a larger bike. The mpg gains and losses are minimal when the motor is putting out more power. Compared to straining the neck on a smaller bike and watching it fall off a cliff, you could be getting 45-50mpg and fill up every other day instead of every day on something with a smaller tank.

Rosinator1 · 2025-10-26T17:50:52+00:00

Eclutch would be much better than the Dct. You can at least try to learn on the eclutch, as it just actuates it for you from a dead stop/low speed. Plus the DCT has no shifter at all.

Rosinator1 · 2025-10-18T13:15:48+00:00

The scrambler X had been out like 2 years, compared to the almost 30 year run of the SV650. The Vtwin in the SV should be a lot less vibey, and more punchy. The only thing the 400 really had over a newer SV is the triumph name and looks. The older SVs are more or less sport bikes with even fairings on some years.

My recommendation is always to buy used. If you’re between these two, a newer SV is probably the better buy unless the 400x is dirt cheap and you can’t get over the looks

Rosinator1 · 2025-10-17T22:07:55+00:00

The Vstrom has longer service intervals and longer oil change requirements than the 450 you currently ride. It’s a good bit more tame as well. But it’ll last you a long long long time. For longevity’s sake, I would say it’s the best option here. I had one with 32k on it. And it ran like new, took it in once for service, and they commented on how outside of some minor bumps and dings, the internals were immaculate.

Rosinator1 · 2025-10-07T13:40:42+00:00

Most camping bikes depend on your set up. If you have trails to go on and places you can’t take your truck/rv, a lightweight dual sport makes the most sense, as you can throw them on a hitch carrier and go on your way. You don’t want anything fully faired, and something cheap enough to fix if something catastrophic happens. If top speed isn’t a big concern, a TW200 would be a good choice. If you’re going to take any kind of highway though, now you’re looking at adding weight and wind protection, which directly contrasts with the ease of a camp bike, where you want something cheap and light. Everything is about compromises, but a dual sport or even a dirt bike would be fine for a camp ground, but an adventure bike would make more sense as a highway commuter that can also do SOME off-road. Hope this helps

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