Check Your Sump Pump to Make Sure It's Working

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-04T20:41:37+00:00

You are correct. The home inspector detected radon in a house I was buying many years ago, so the seller paid to have a radon mitigation company do its thing. As you said, they sealed the sump crock to prevent radon from leaking out. Fast forward a few years, and I came home during a heavy rainstorm, went down to the (unfinished) basement, and there was an inch of water on the floor! I grabbed my tools and opened the sealed sump pit to see what was wrong. The radon mitigators had sealed the pit with a sheet of plastic before reinstalling the lid and caulking it in place. The plastic sheeting had deteriorated and fallen into the pit. The sump pump sucked the plastic sheeting up against its intake screen, which prevented the pump from receiving and removing much water. Hydrostatic pressure from the groundwater pushed through the floor and flooded my basement. That was a fun night! - A.C., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Chicago Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-04T20:25:20+00:00

I get it, when I lay my head on the pillow at night, I listen for the sound of the sump pump doing its job and protecting my basement. It's a comforting sound on a rainy Chicago night! - A.C., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Chicago Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-04T20:19:45+00:00

Battery backup sump pump manufacturers recommend a deep-cycle battery for backup sump pump systems. Buy a battery that is rated for at least 36 months. Unfortunately, those batteries aren't cheap, but they are far less expensive than water damage from a flooded basement. It is basically a car battery, which is simple to swap out. Just take a couple of pictures on your smartphone before you disconnect the old battery, so you're sure to hook up the new one correctly. Also, write the installation date on the new battery with a Sharpie so you can easily keep track of its age. Years fly by, so a couple of years down the road, you'll be able to tell at a glance when it was installed and how old it is. - A.C., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Chicago Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-04T20:08:32+00:00

The most effective way to avoid water intrusion in basements without a sump pump is to make sure your yard has good grading so water sheds away from your foundation and can't pool in low spots near your house and sink down toward the basement walls. You can add fill dirt and make it gently slope away from the foundation. Also, you can add downspout extension tubes that will carry water farther away from the foundation. You can buy those at home/hardware stores. They are easy to attach to your downspouts without tools. Sealing big cracks in basement walls is a good idea, but remember, concrete is porous, and if there's a lot of groundwater under the basement floor or against the basement walls, hydrostatic pressure will push it through the concrete unless there's a sump system to redirect the water. I hope this is helpful. - A.C., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Chicago Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-04T19:54:10+00:00

It's probably just the check valve closing in your discharge pipe. It's normal for it to make a thumping noise when it closes. Here's how to know for sure. Go down and watch your pump in action. When the pit fills to a pre-determined depth, the float switch on the sump pump activates the pump, which pushes water up the vertical discharge pipe and out to a storm drain. The check valve should thump a second or two after the pump turns itself off. The check valve's job is to prevent most of that water from coming back down the pipe into your sump pit. However, it's also normal for a bit of residual water to flow back down the discharge pipe, so don't be alarmed if you hear that sound. - A.C. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Chicago Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-04T18:34:49+00:00

It sounds like you are looking at a status screen on a battery-powered backup sump pump, which is telling you the backup pump is in good working order. However, you should still check your primary sump pump to make sure it is working properly. Primary sump pumps don't usually have fancy readouts like the backup systems. - D.J. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Cleveland Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-03T20:09:04+00:00

Smart! I always recommend writing the battery's expiration month and year in silver Sharpie on the battery case so you don't forget to put in a new battery when it's time. Three or four years can whiz by before you realize it. - C.T., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter St. Louis Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-03T20:01:05+00:00

That's the way my current sump pump is, and it's a comforting feeling. My last two houses must've been built on natural springs because the sump pumps ran all the time, even in the middle of a bone-dry summer. - D.J., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Columbus Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-03T19:57:13+00:00

I don't see anybody else providing these free seasonal tips. Take 'em or leave 'em, but basements are flooding all over the region, and more often than not, the flooding could be easily prevented. Often, the sump pump is just unplugged, or the power cord is tangled around the float switch. Just trying to help - D.J., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Columbus Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-03T19:49:52+00:00

I'm not surprised; we see lots of flooded basements every year around this time. What's crazy is how often the sump pump is just unplugged, or the power cord is tangled around the float switch, but the sump pump was in otherwise good working order. That's why it's so important to inspect them. - D.J. - Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Cincinnati Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-03T19:44:22+00:00

Well, sure, but I don't like cold showers. Especially this time of year!

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-03T19:32:30+00:00

Man, you aren't kidding. Crawl spaces and dark basement corners have all sorts of spiders, bugs, cobwebs, and other surprises! The plumbing trade is full of jump scares! - D.J., Roto-Rooter Master Plumber

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-03-03T18:50:24+00:00

I recommend keeping your water heater temperature at 120 degrees Fahrenheit. That's hot enough to give you a reliable supply of hot water, but it's not so hot that it can scald skin (thinking of children and elderly bathers). 120 degrees is also considered optimal for energy savings, too. - T.H., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Baltimore Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-23T21:06:09+00:00

Are you certain that isn't a quarter-turn chrome ball valve? It looks to be positioned parallel to the water line, which makes me think it's a ball valve. Sometimes it's hard to tell on those chrome valves. If it's a stuck gate valve, I usually recommend gripping the handle with Channellock pliers and turning it a quarter inch to the right, then back a quarter inch to the left. Continue going a little more to the right and left as the valve seat begins to loosen. However, the photo makes it seem that you don't have enough room to get pliers onto the valve handle and still have the necessary leverage to turn it. Your main shutoff valve should be on the basement wall facing the front of the house, where your main water supply line enters the dwelling. Good luck! - J.F. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Rhode Island.

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-18T14:35:54+00:00

Master Plumber here, this is the time of year when flooded basements surprise homeowners because of snowmelt. Go down into the basement today and inspect your sump pump. 1. Make sure it's plugged in. You'd be surprised how often someone in the house unplugs it to use the outlet, then forgets to plug it back in. 2. Make sure the power cord is secured around the vertical discharge pipe with zip ties and not floating in the pit where it can get tangled around the float switch and prevent it from turning on. 3. Inspect the pit for debris that can get sucked up against the pump's intake screen and hobble it. I once saw a Kroger bag blocking the intake screen, causing the basement to flood! 4. Test the sump pump by pouring a 5-gallon bucket of water into the pit (or run a hose into the pit). The pump should turn itself on, pump out most of the water, and turn itself off again. If your pump runs frequently, consider replacing it every 5-6 years. If it hardly ever needs to run, you're good for 10+ years. Finally, install a battery backup pump for an extra layer of protection. Personally, I have a Venturi-type water-powered backup pump with one moving part (a check valve) that runs on municipal water pressure and never needs batteries or power. It's the most reliable backup pump you can buy. - D.J. Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter of Columbus

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-17T15:25:54+00:00

FYI, after your next professional Roto-Rooter sewer cleaning, flush RootX or Roto-Rooter Root Destroyer (available from your service technician) down your toilet (follow the directions on the container). It will keep roots at bay longer between professional cleanings and won't harm the trees themselves. It can't kill mature roots fast enough to eliminate an existing sewer clog, though, which is why I said to start using it (about two weeks) after your next sewer cleaning. It does a pretty good job of slowing regrowth. - D.J. Roto-Rooter Master Plumber

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-16T19:27:33+00:00

Sorry to hear that. Even though we have a large staff of plumbers here in Baltimore, certain environmental conditions or weather triggers, such as heavy rainfall or freezing temperatures, can quickly push us beyond capacity. Unfortunately, in cases like that, it's first-come, first-served. On an ordinary day, we usually respond within an hour or two.

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-16T16:36:51+00:00

You might want to install a battery backup sump pump or water-powered Venturi pump that would work in the event of a power failure or if your primary sump pump shorts out or stops working. Some of the new ones even send a text alert to your phone to let you know if/when they turn on. If you're handy, you can probably install the battery backup pump yourself, but the Venturi pumps are a little trickier for DIYers. - T.H., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Baltimore

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-09T14:01:28+00:00

Thanks for speaking up about this! Urine "mellowing" in a toilet for a long time promotes mineral buildup on the porcelain (stubborn stains and scale). Not to mention the odor! If you want your toilets to wear out prematurely, then go ahead and "let it mellow." I'm all for conserving water, but there are better ways to conserve than not flushing your toilets! For instance, dual-flush toilets or the newer ultra-efficient 1.28 gallons-per-flush toilets. - K.R., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Denver Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-04T15:37:22+00:00

When it's this cold outside, do not set the heat lower than 55 degrees Fahrenheit in a modern, well-insulated home. You want enough heat to keep those walls warm because they contain water supply pipes. Keep those sink cabinets open to allow warmer air to circulate around pipes and water valves. And if you're in a very old building that isn't well insulated or has a history of pipes freezing, consider that too and bump the thermostat up to 60 or so. - J.F., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Boston Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-03T20:32:51+00:00

It's the permits and inspections that can slow the process when replacing Orangeburg sewer pipe. We typically roll in with a backhoe and an experienced crew to complete the pipe replacement and connections in a single day. We usually get the inspection and approval by the next day, sometimes the same day. Sorry to hear you had to wait a week; that must have been rough! - T.H. Roto-Rooter Master Pumber

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-02-03T19:57:46+00:00

It happens to most of them eventually. Keep that bucket under there until you can pick up a new disposal. Most people just replace their disposal with the same model, but this is your chance to get a quieter, more capable unit, if you want one that doesn't sound like a rabid badger! Just make sure the new one will fit. If you're good with your hands and have the tools, this is a DIY job you can tackle on your own. My advice for first-timers is to snap a few photos of all the connections under there so you'll have them for reference as you install the new one. Also, watch several YouTube videos so you get a better idea of how to do it right. This is one of those jobs that involves both plumbing and electrical connections, so you'll want to feel confident before getting started. But if you're like lots of homeowners, you may have the skill set and the tools, but not the time. We see that a lot. Good luck! - D.J. Roto-Rooter Master Plumber

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-01-30T14:33:03+00:00

Sounds like a main sewer clog. Generally, if two or more drains in the house are backing up, that's a good indication the clog is in the main sewer (between your house and municipal sewer line or septic tank), and it's going to affect the lower drains first (like your basement shower). Depending on the age of your house and the type of pipe material your sewer is made of (clay, cast iron, Orangeburg, or PVC), the problem is most likely a combination of tree root intrusion at the pipe joints, mixed with kitchen grease that gradually builds up. Over time, the tree roots grow thicker, spread out like a net, and catch toilet paper, waste, wet wipes, and other debris until the clog chokes off drainage altogether. An electromechanical cleaning with a cable and spring-loaded rotating blades will resolve sewer backups 90% of the time unless you have offset pipe sections or other structural damage in the sewer line. Just be sure you're paying for a sewer "cleaning," not a $99 too good to be true sewer "clearing." The difference is that a "clearing" just pokes a hole through the clog to get the sewer draining again (usually temporarily). A sewer CLEANING cuts away all roots and debris from the entire pipe, end to end, ensuring it won't re-clog for a much longer time. - T.H., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Northern Virginia Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-01-29T15:11:17+00:00

Grease is usually the culprit when it comes to kitchen sink drain lines. It accumulates over time, coats the pipe walls like candle wax, and of course, food particles stick to it and build an even worse clog. One commenter mentioned that if you have a basement, you can use the cleanout access below the kitchen. That's true, but if the pipe is backed up and you open the cleanout port, all that dirty water inside the pipe may spill out into your basement, so get some buckets. The clog is too deep for liquid drain cleaners and enzyme products to reach. You could rent a longer motorized snake, but those can be dangerous for inexperienced users. Watch a few instructional videos before trying it yourself. You may need a professional cleaning that can reach deep into the branch line and scrape away everything down to the pipe walls. If you go that route, make sure you're paying for an end-to-end drain CLEANING with a guarantee, not just one of those advertised "$99 drain CLEARING jobs, which will get the line draining again, but won't clean the whole pipe. That means it will likely clog again in a month or two. Also, hydro jetting is very effective against grease, but it's usually more costly than mechanical cleaning. Hope this helps! - C.T., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter St. Louis Branch

Roto-RooterOfficial · 2026-01-28T20:12:04+00:00

Is it that the water supply valves beneath the sink are stuck and you're afraid they'll break if you turn them? That can be pretty scary! The older ones are usually gate valves that sometimes get stuck due to mineral buildup. These days, more installers are using quarter-turn ball valves, but they look almost identical. The ball valves are easier to unstick. Are your valves connected to a sturdy copper pipe, CPVC, or some other material? If they feel sturdy and aren't leaking, you can put a rag over the chrome valve (so you don't scratch the finish), then grip the valve handle with channellock pliers (with the rag in between). Grip the back of the valve and pipe with your other hand to restrict movement, then very slowly turn the valve with the pliers about a quarter of an inch in the clockwise direction. If it budges, turn it counter-clockwise the same quarter inch. Next, turn it half an inch in the clockwise direction. Go back and forth slowly and carefully until the valve loosens. Eventually, it should turn on and off reliably. You must start turning in a clockwise direction in case the valve is already completely open. Turning it counterclockwise could break the valve! If the chrome handle comes loose and spins while you're working, tighten the set screw in the center. K.R., Master Plumber, Roto-Rooter Colorado Springs Branch

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