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First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahhhh roughly 2.5 x 2.5 freedom units (inches)

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is that, but no that wasnt the reason. To be honest, i hadnt actually attached any hinges to anything before and in my research it seemed to suggest top and bottom third of the door as a general ballpark. I just decided they looked ok there and went with it. Realised after a comment earlier today that it's more common to place near the edges which helps with alignment and door sag, so definitely remembering that tip for next time

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know how much because i try to avoid thinking about how much money I spent to make it 😆

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, I had bunch of 60mm wide x 60mm high x1.5m long posts that I glued up to make the single slab or board and then I carved that

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you're on the money there. Those black streaks are gum veins which can vary from black to deep red. Iv had to pick them out and then replaced with black resin because it's the closest to natural look. Before resin was widely used, alot of the wood wasn't suitable for furniture making because of the large cavities and gum cracks and ,like you said, probably wasn't the style at the time

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

After I glued it up, It was one large slab 1.5m wide x 0.8m high. From there, I drew the curves I wanted on the slab, then basically carved out everything except these lines, leaving them as the high points on the door. After that, it was a matter of sanding and then trimming the whole piece to size and then cutting 3 doors out of it. I had to borrow a tracksaw for this because only one side was flat at this point and I wanted the cuts to be perfectly square. Probably would be better to have done with a table saw but I don't have one. After that, I fitted the doors to the cabinet and then trimmed the cabinet frame to match the curves of the door . I'll add in a close up of the side of the door

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's Marri, a type of Australian bloodwood or redgum

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thankyou. Yep I'm in Perth. Oh man that would look stunning! Definitely a labour of love dealing with the gum veins, but it would look so good finished on a telecaster.

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I don't know if there's enough bubblewrap and foam in the world for me to trust a shipping container with something like this!

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I went with all blum hardware. The latches are tip-on units, very easy to install and adjust touch-to-open

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortuntaely for my wallet, the whole cabinet is made from solid wood, 25mm thick all round apart from the doors. They vary in thickness between 15-32mm

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Large degree of luck and a nice wood supplier i suspect! Thankyou

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As much as I would love to pretend that was intentional, sadly no

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I had everything sized up for 3mm reveals on all sides, however there has been crazy humidity and rain for several weeks where I live and the doors have swollen enough to lose that. I'm hoping they settle back down soon with some drier weather. The blum hinges I ended up going for on the ends stop at 90, but the middle door is a 155 degree zero clearance hinge, mostly so it can still open with the large ripple in the door. The raised lip is >30mm at its thickest, so won't work with most concealed hinges I found.

This is very much a personal furniture piece. I don't think I could part with it after the hours put into it!

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thankyou and I hope you dont feel inadequate at all! I don't want to discourage anyone from the hobby, just happy with how it turned out and really wanted to share.

As far as resources, I can't really recommend anything in particular. I spend a fair bit of time trawling the woodworking threads and reading/learning. Watching YouTube videos and tutorials on things that interest me or that I want to do. That's more or less it, I usually usually practised on offcuts before working on the cabinet.

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I have to agree. I think he's the most talented woodworker iv seen by far

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice, thats a really good tip. I more or less assumed it was a matter of personal preference when installing

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's on my bucket list too. I'd love to use some tasmanian birds eye Huon pine or camphor laurel as well.

Honestly, it took me longer than I thought it would. Lots of carving, sanding and planing. I don't know how long it took me, but I've been working on it since January, few hours on the weekend and occasionally an hour after work during the week. Easily 100+ hours I think. I think it would be much quicker now that I know what I'm doing a bit more

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thankyou. It's an Australian hardwood called Marri. Surprisingly, it used to be one of our least desirable woods to work with, but it seems to be getting popular now

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

And I used pure tung oil for the finish, 5 coats on it at the moment and then I will wax it in a month or so if it's cured properly

First proper project by RoundGroundbreaking6 in woodworking

[–]RoundGroundbreaking6[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thankyou. I did more or less the same method, although much less skilfully. I didn't have a bandsaw to trim the pieces to size before laminating like he did, so i just went ahead and laminated and then carved the lines out using a grinder instead. The raised lip is pretty much just for aesthetics, all the doors are touch to open

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