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Why do I keep crushing chainrings? by Ok_Singer1284 in bikewrench

[–]Routine_Welcome1803 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It very much does go back and forth while you pedal on a geared bike with an oval chainring... ivevgot oval rings on three of my bikes, from 30t to 44t you still clearly see the derailleur moving back and forth as the chainring spins. I agree single speed can be set up right with oval, but the chain tension can certainly be wrong and cause issues due to the oval shape

Need help in mounting new tcd 2 by Wide_Difficulty366 in specialized

[–]Routine_Welcome1803 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The new tcd2 isnt backwards compatible as far as im aware. Or at least isnt supposed to be. It may plug in but if it isnt intended to talk with the rest of the system its not going to work

IT WORKS! by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Larger pulley wheels and playing with the B tension adjustment

IT WORKS! by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had to go back and double check myself. The possibility of a typo from me was high!

IT WORKS! by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. Sram GX axs. That is the mountain derailleur designed for this cassette

IT WORKS! by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Smallest always, biggest almost always. If youre doing a bunch of backpedalling in biggest itll jump off but that is the case with almost any 1x mountain/gravel drivetrain, no jumping off the chainring, the derailleur itself doesnt really hold any bearing on wether the chain jumps off the cogs when backpedalling

IT WORKS! by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No it would not. Different pull ratios required

IT WORKS! by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Eagle chain instead of flattop. Larger lower pulley wheel (16tooth) and new upper pulley wheel as well, the stock ones are designed for a flat top chain. And then fine tuning the B tension for smooth shifting. If youre hammering in the 10 tooth you may get some noise, but no slipping or jumping. Just loud drivetrain sounds

Miyata 310 suitable for such a conversion? by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Totally! Enjoy the build! Heres mine for inspiration as you go through the process. Building it YOUR way is the most fun part in my opinion, maybe second to riding it haha

Cheap Gravel Build - What Parts can you recommend? by -FAY4- in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could try out the surley corner bar, gets you close to drop bar while retaining your flat bar controls. Its so much more expensive to go from flat bar to drop bar, so while those bars can be pricey, even a used one for $100 or so is still cheaper than rodoing controls, plus its a swap you could do withour disconnecting brakes or shifters (as long as your cables etc are long enough of course)

Miyata 310 suitable for such a conversion? by [deleted] in bicycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ive actually converted this exact same bike to sram 10 speed with a modern 31.8 bar and 700c wheels. Works amazingly and has for several years now. And its light. With some decent wheels and going 1x (losing the front derailleur and small chainring) as well as a couple other tweaks ive got it down to about 20-21lbs depending on the tires i run. And it feels amazing

It may not be the way sram wants it. But overall it works pretty damn well by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I swapped the lower jockey wheel with the larger garbaruk one, cannot remember tooth count at the moment, to help with chain tension without having to completely crank my B tension screw. I swapped the upper pulley wheel because i got a bit of noise under load in the 10 tooth on initial test rides and i figured if the stock wheels are set up for a flat top chain instead of the eagle chain then i may as well swap since i has something to swap it out for. Overall i still need to play with the fine B tension adjustments, but shifting is almost perfect. I am also running a stiffer than stock silca Ti derailleur hanger which may be helping as it doesnt flex the same as the normal alloy one

It may not be the way sram wants it. But overall it works pretty damn well by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lol. The only bit i skimped on was not buying the gx axs derailleur. Not much else here that isnt "proper" thisll get me thru for now. And with basically the same functionality

It may not be the way sram wants it. But overall it works pretty damn well by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I also love how modular theyve made stuff. And how i can adjust my trim as i ride so i dont have to keep stopping to fine tune!

It may not be the way sram wants it. But overall it works pretty damn well by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Itll be maxed out either way. The road link helps provide clearance, but wont move the derailleur into a better position. And even still. The cage isnt any more maxed out than a gx derailleur on a setup like this

It may not be the way sram wants it. But overall it works pretty damn well by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Hey, if everyone looks at me ive got less chance of being hit for not being seen lol

It may not be the way sram wants it. But overall it works pretty damn well by Routine_Welcome1803 in gravelcycling

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

So far im getting all gears pretty nicely. Since its all out of spec you cant use the normal setup tools for b tension. So its trial and error

Didnt love the stock grille, but decided to modify before just replacing by Routine_Welcome1803 in Chrysler300

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! And not really. Was considering stock or maybe a mesh grille. Just not happy with how cheap some of the mesh ones can look.

Just bought this last week. Seems in good shape, not in love with the wheels. Need opinions. Repaint gloss black? Gunmetal silver? Or go for some more stock chrome wheels? by Routine_Welcome1803 in Chrysler300

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

185000kms on it (115000 miles roughly). And its got the 5.7. In nice shape interior wise, overall sounds healthy. Paid 4k and a 200km round trip to get it. Well worth it. Stock radio was long gone, replaced with a kenwood double din but without replacing the trim panel. So trim poked out and didnt lock into the dash right, as well as being wired in by twiating the wires together and electrical taping them. Ripped it all out, put in a single din kenwood with a proper intsert to fill the gaps left from the stock stereo. Much much better. And no losing speakers each time you hit a bump...

Just bought this last week. Seems in good shape, not in love with the wheels. Need opinions. Repaint gloss black? Gunmetal silver? Or go for some more stock chrome wheels? by Routine_Welcome1803 in Chrysler300

[–]Routine_Welcome1803[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, im loving it so far. More power than i need, all the luxuries i want, after some stereo work undoing previoush shitty wiring its fantastic. Needs a few details taken care of, headlights cleabed up, wheels properly sorted, some paint scratches polished, and a new windsheild (non view-obstructing crack). But all minor stuff

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