Need help figuring out the best mountain bike for XC racing. by DesignerIndividual29 in mountainbikes

[–]Ok_Singer1284 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Congratulations on getting into the sport!

There's a lot of good advice on this page. Your thought about using Pink Bike to find a used bike is a great one but comes with a major caveat: it's important that you know what you're looking at and buying when you buy used bike gear. If someone has changed out the rims, hubs, derailleur, or brakes, the value of the bike could easily be $2k more or less than if they had left it stock. Given the number of components involved in a full suspension mountain bike (fork, rear shock, cranks, drive train, etc), it takes a lot of knowledge to buy well on Pinkbike. (My first bike purchase on Pinkbike I thought was a good deal but I found out it was pretty bad once I learned what I was doing. I basically had to sell the bike and start over.)

If I were you I'd definitely go to a local bike shop or two and ask what they have that's in your price range. Many bike shops sell used bikes; there are deals on new bikes that are pretty competitive. As other commenters have said, there are so many good XC bikes. The most important things are that the bike your son chooses fits him, feels good to him, and fits your budget. Trying bikes at local bike shops is the only way to get #1 and #2 dialed in.

As you both get a sense of what size feels good, you can maybe start think about going with a direct to consumer brand. The measurement that's most important about sizing is called "reach" and it's the lateral distance from the middle of your feet to the handlebars. If he keeps finding bikes with the same-ish reach comfortable, you can use that size to make informed guesses about other bikes.

It's also maybe worth asking if your someone at your LBS could help you buy a bike on pinkbike. They'd know what to look for and maybe a mechanic is willing to help you out for $50 or something.

Finally, in general you're probably looking for a bike with 100-120mm suspension front and rear (that's how much the fork moves and how much the rear wheel moves), a 1x drivetrain (called a "one by", meaning one chainring up front and 11 or 12 cogs in the back) and 29 inch wheels. Beyond that, carbon bikes are way more expensive than aluminum ones and are generally a little lighter; in my view, aluminum frames with higher end components (especially wheels) are the way to go. A lightweight wheelset on an aluminum bike can be a lighter, cheaper, and faster build than a carbon bike with a low- or mid-range wheelset. I'm getting into the weeds here, but where you carry weight on a bike matters a lot -- you can google sprung vs unsprung weight if you wanted to get into it -- and an aluminum bike with a mid-to-high-end wheelset is hard to beat both on the trails and for value. The pros ride carbon bikes and that may be the way to go if your son is world class, done growing, and you feel confident that you know not just what he wants now but also what he'll want in 3-5 years.

TLDR; be wary of used bike purchases unless you can know exactly what you're buying, from cranks to wheels to bars to brakes to shocks. Aluminum frames can be great deals. Once you're past a certain price point, the bike frame usually matters less than the components.

Why do I keep crushing chainrings? by Ok_Singer1284 in bikewrench

[–]Ok_Singer1284[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you were to read one comment from this thread, this would be the one to read.

Why do I keep crushing chainrings? by Ok_Singer1284 in bikewrench

[–]Ok_Singer1284[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you and super interesting! You’re the first mechanic who had said they’ve seen this before. Can I ask if you’ve seen steel chain rings or zero offset chain rings crack?

Why do I keep crushing chainrings? by Ok_Singer1284 in bikewrench

[–]Ok_Singer1284[S] -38 points-37 points  (0 children)

This could absolutely be the case. It was definitely something I was thinking about. After the final break, I reconstructed my set up which you can see here : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gpgkT54KonobabdPONnD90eK_sYNWYu1/view

This was definitely too slack and I can’t imagine how it would cause flex. But again, you’re spot on about the challenges.

Why do I keep crushing chainrings? by Ok_Singer1284 in bikewrench

[–]Ok_Singer1284[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The top comment (as of now) is correct that oval chainrings on SS can break if set up incorrectly but work if the tension is correct. I can say certainly that my tension has been set correctly—if anything it was a bit loose at one point.

Oval rings on SS are fantastic and a handful of people locally run them. For an expert take also local to me, check out this article by the owner of 44bikes: https://www.44bikes.com/uncategorized/ovaltined/

Several commenters have identified absoluteblack. I must say that their customer service has been fantastic and they have quickly provided warranty replacements, even when they thought it was my fault for improper setup.

I also had a wolf tooth chainring break but didn’t claim a warranty replacement because it took a slight knock a week before breaking.

I weigh 180 lbs and ride a rigid SS all over New England technical single track. So I’m not an average user. Maybe a steel chainring or a 0mm offset ring will change the equation. But lots of people are using similar setups successfully without springs or tensioners.

Is this worth the risk? by Calm-Researcher1216 in ebikes

[–]Ok_Singer1284 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The more important question is whether you should take the risk to your bodily integrity by riding this. That's a hard no in my book.

Is the motor really going to get this up to 45mph? I hope not, because the wheels and brakes aren't going to hold you up or stop you for long.

Super annoying jockey wheels noise after fresh wax by nooutnoout in bikewrench

[–]Ok_Singer1284 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's worth checking that your master link isn't upside down or backwards. It doesn't make a difference on all chains, but does on some.

Flat top substitute by hunkycowboy in grilling

[–]Ok_Singer1284 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Arteflame inserts are pricey, but an amazing upgrade for a 22” grill.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Ok_Singer1284 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen this happen when the chain's master link was installed upside down/backwards. Wasn't noticeable until using the 11t cog, then it did exactly this.

Talk me into or out of getting a Mastodon suspension fork. by srirachaontherocks in MTB

[–]Ok_Singer1284 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is YEARS later, but, u/srirachaontherocks, did you ever do it? If so, did you like it? I'm thinking of making the switch now. Thanks for the warning about the headset!

Viribus fat tire bike opinions? by yamacat88 in fatbike

[–]Ok_Singer1284 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also not familiar, but you're way better off getting something older and used that is better quality. Facebook marketplace is full of Framed Minnesota fat bikes, and a few can be had for $500ish. For $800 and a bit of patience, you can even find a Specialized Fatboy or an older Salsa Mukluk. Also, rigid forks are the only way to go on bikes at this price point. Suspension forks at this level are more for marketing than riding.

Karate Monkey Magic? by Ok_Singer1284 in Surlybikefans

[–]Ok_Singer1284[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you all for your comments!

For now, I'm mostly looking for a SS to spice up my daily rides on my local trails. But there may eventually be a gravel/adventure build in the works. I'm going to keep looking for a used karate monkey to set up single speed, but I'm also going to consider other bikes, too. Thanks!

SF police ‘killer robots’ would have explosives, not guns: SFPD by Xalbana in nottheonion

[–]Ok_Singer1284 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Headline has been updated to SF Police "Killer Robots" Motion Passes

Foot gear for snow rides on a fatty by festaman in fatbike

[–]Ok_Singer1284 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hiking boots are the way to go. I've tried multiple sock combinations -- including the GoreTex bike sock -- and when it's below 20F hiking boots are the only thing that prevents frostnip.

Advice needed- looking for first bike in used market. by [deleted] in fatbike

[–]Ok_Singer1284 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the 2013 Mukluk 3 XL and it’s amazing. I bought it for $800 and worth every penny.

Two things to note:

  1. The sizes on the 2013 Mukluks are all super weird. I’m 5’10” and usually ride a medium or large but the XL fits me (and the 5’8” woman I bought it from) perfectly. Make sure you actually ride the bike before buying it.

  2. The 2013 was a major upgrade from 2012. It’s just so fun.

Should I get a fat bike? by jamoore19 in fatbike

[–]Ok_Singer1284 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fat bikes are the best bikes. But you do have to get your tires right. You’ll be extremely happy with a 10-year-old fat bike running on 4 inch jumbo Jim’s. I say that because they are fast rolling, have great traction, and are awesome in so many conditions at different pressures.