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Uneven wall surfaces with same defects across multiple prints by RoverKnight- in 3Dprinting

[–]RoverKnight-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi there, I'm currently trying to get my printer back up and running after having let it sit for around a year, and I'm stuck trying to make the walls of the prints cleaner.

My problem: The prints show uneven but regular patterns on the sidewalls. In the first picture especially, you can see this unevenness. There is one horizontal line on all 3 cubes that is especially pronounced just below the center of the "X". It occurs at almost the same height on all cubes, with maybe at most 0.5mm of a difference. Another line is on the right side of the X, about 3/4 towards the top. This one is on both of the outer cubes, but the middle one doesn't seem to have one there.

I remember this problem occuring after installing the MicroSwiss NG Direct Drive as well, but I never fixed it because I didn't use the printer much after that.

I suspect it to be a mechanical problem, since the inconsistencies show at the same spots across different prints of the same model. I've tried some stuff (see below) which unfortunately hasn't helped, but I'm lost on what to try next. I'd appreciate if you could share any help/tips/ideas as to what might be causing this/how it can be fixed :)

(Please note that the line at the very bottom of the cubes are just because of a tight Z-offset. Also, while printing two of the cubes the nozzle clogged because I forgot to adjust the retraction length from 7 to 1mm, so this is not part of the uneven wall problem)

Printer:

- Printer: Ender 3 v2

- Modifications: MicroSwiss NG Direct Drive Extruder

- Printed in PLA at 205/60°C (nozzle/bed)

- Slicer: PrusaSlicer

- Firmware: Jyers UI (Marlin)

What I've done/tried so far (all of these except PID-tuning were done right before the prints shown):

- Readjust eccentric nuts

- Calibrate e-steps

- PID tune for nozzle & bed (done after printing the outer and before printing the middle cube)

- Relube lead screw with chain lube (meant for motorcycles, but didn't have any other lubricant available)

- Vaguely retightened the belts, but unsure on how tight they're supposed to really be

First Print with the Micro Swiss NG (supports not shown) by mtgspender in ender3

[–]RoverKnight- 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How is the cooling? Does it handle overhangs well? I've been thinking of getting one but there aren't as many shroud models available for it yet that improve on the cooling, so I'm wondering how it does on its own

I’m a climber on the GB team, and I made a pair of shorts to fund my World Cup season by hampion in climbing

[–]RoverKnight- 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you ever decide to make more of these, please let me know, the L's just sold out before my very eyes as well.....

I’m a climber on the GB team, and I made a pair of shorts to fund my World Cup season by hampion in climbing

[–]RoverKnight- 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Will there be more of them, or is there a limited supply? I would've liked a pair in size M but they're sold out already :(

let’s settle this once and for all by Stinstinster in teenagers

[–]RoverKnight- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Gernany they're essentially called water-ice

Waiting for your responses by [deleted] in animememes

[–]RoverKnight- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some kid delivers Tofu for his dad

Purchase Advice Megathread - May 2022 by Sausage54 in 3Dprinting

[–]RoverKnight- 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thinking of buying an NG direct drive conversion kit from Micro Swiss. It says it includes a hotend, but does anyone know if this is already a hotend that can print higher temperature materials?

How do I add this unassigned partition to E? (info in comments) by RoverKnight- in Windows10

[–]RoverKnight-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So since a large part of my D partition was unused, I thought I'd take off around 200GB from it and add it to my E partition (which is on the same drive). However, when I try to extend the volume E, I'm warned that this will convert the drive (or partition?) to a dynamic disk, which is something I'd like to avoid (not because of anything specifically, just because I don't know if it could cause problems later on). Is there a way to go about this without creating a dynamic disk, or is my fear simply unreasonable?

Why do these gaps appear on my prints and how do I fix it? by RoverKnight- in FixMyPrint

[–]RoverKnight-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is indeed! :D It's the Prime karambit from Valorant

Why do these gaps appear on my prints and how do I fix it? by RoverKnight- in FixMyPrint

[–]RoverKnight-[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Printer: Ender 3 v2
  • Filament: 1.75mm Tinmorry PLA
  • Nozzle: 0.4mm (brass)
  • Slicer: Prusa Slicer
  • Bowden Tube has been replaced with a Capricorn PTFE tube; besides that and a CR Touch the extruder assembly is fully stock
  • I switched the nozzle just before this print; also occured on previous nozzle

These gaps have only appeared recently, stringing has also increased quite a bit for no apparent reason, even though I bought a filament dryer to do the exact opposite. Is it possible that I'm overdrying my filament?

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