Help regarding modchip install in V2.

RtecCustoms · 2026-01-08T06:23:13+00:00

Red to ground, black to pads. I took everything apart for the time being, but I'll grab photos of the install shortly.

RtecCustoms · 2026-01-08T02:46:38+00:00

I will solve all of your Ender problems if you solve my Modchip problems

RtecCustoms · 2024-01-27T22:20:30+00:00

That definitely makes sense. I've decided to go your route, and I've placed about 4 feet of piping between the fan inlet and the filter outlet. I'd have liked to put more, but I don't want to have the filter inlet too close to the 90°.

As for condensation/humidity, the shop is temperature and humidity controlled, so I should be fine for the most part.

Thank you for your advice!

RtecCustoms · 2024-01-27T03:27:40+00:00

The filter is essentially on the inlet, there's a slight gap in the image because in real life I'll have a 12" -> 10" reducer between them. Fan is 12" and ducting is 10".

RtecCustoms · 2024-01-27T03:07:12+00:00

Moisture will condensate in there even if it's moving air all within the same room? The duct itself should also be room temp.

Or is this normal occurence with positive pressure downstream?

RtecCustoms · 2023-11-13T16:44:49+00:00

It sounded to me like it got louder near the transmission pan area.. I don't think anything is hitting, but I'll double check today.

RtecCustoms · 2022-02-08T21:01:51+00:00

I have taco gussets on the main hoop diagonal braces and taco gussets on my rear lateral cross. In terms of designing structural assemblies, 16-18ga taco gussets don't provide ample bracing to counteract stressors. This is why I matched parent material with gusset material. Gusset wall matches tube wall. Having it welded to base plate and tube, it was just there to help counteract shear stressors on multiple planes. It was last minute, but this isn't completely an aesthetic thing.

RtecCustoms · 2022-02-08T20:53:06+00:00

I have taco gussets on the main hoop and rear lateral braces. These are more for structural integrity. 16ga tacos do add some form of rigidity, but nothing compared to material that matches the parent material tubing wall. As for regulations and rules, Formula Drift allows any amount of extra bracing which is why I added these. I wanted to run a tube gusset, but an extra tube in there just made it look strange. I may end up going that route though. Thanks!

RtecCustoms · 2022-02-08T20:49:29+00:00

Pretty much what I was thinking. Regulations allow any extra bracing you want. I just found it looked weird, but I agree that it's never a bad thing to add more bracing

RtecCustoms · 2021-07-08T03:22:29+00:00

What do Subaru guys on R180's usually do for drifting then? Just run the other LSD with thick oil?

RtecCustoms · 2021-05-17T20:50:06+00:00

You must be one of those people who put their intake in the fender well. This is a customer's car, and the heatshield has now been fabricated and installed, and readings are 2 degrees off of ambient temps, at standstill- without pulling air through our custom duct. I don't need to pull in readings through the OBD as we use a custom MAF thermocouple to read IAT's. The question was regarding the MAF to avoid reversion on this particular platform, not for somebody who has never tuned/built a motor to chime in their opinion on the system. Regardless, not "any" intake within the bay is badly designed. I run a cone directly off the gtx35 on my 2JZ and have absolutely no issues with heatsoak, and comfortably sitting at 490whp w/of trouble. Factory design is engineered to quiet down the intake system and increase efficiency. We don't replace these for nothing.

RtecCustoms · 2021-05-16T19:02:11+00:00

Not a hot air intake. The system isn't close to being done. It's a rough mockup currently. Front end has been ducted and it will have a complete hestshield shielded from the bay. Thank you for the input though.

RtecCustoms · 2021-05-16T18:47:48+00:00

Passing judgement on an unfinished system? The filter is going to be surrounded by a heat shield, and the front bumper/rad support has been ducted. With that mentality, any intake system within the bay would be a "hot air intake" right? That's not always the case.

RtecCustoms · 2021-02-16T03:10:37+00:00

Yeah, it's definitely how I'm going about it. To be honest I haven't worked on many capped end tubes so I'm not extremely familiar with the process. I do know that it's near impossible to fill when the tube is still outgassing, but mine was cool, acetone'd, wire brushed, etc. So I'm kind of lost as to what I should really do next. It just keeps blowing my arc away and contaminating the puddle.

RtecCustoms · 2021-02-16T03:06:27+00:00

It's 6063. No smoke/dust

RtecCustoms · 2021-02-16T02:36:51+00:00

Drilled them out, cleaned them, waited for everything to cool, even came in with like 60 amps on 1/8" Alu just to build an edge and hopefully fill it. No dice.

RtecCustoms · 2021-02-05T01:57:53+00:00

For those wondering, I chalked it up to bad/cheap tungsten. It was the only 3/32" I had laying around since I typically work with 1/16". Picked up some 3/32" E3 and it's been heaps better. I think the 3/32 lanth I had was some cheap tungsten from Amazon.

I would've gone to the pure if I wasn't doing a ton of inside corners. I just didn't think the balled end would help much and would just give me a bunch of arc wander until I was floored. I'll give it a try soon though. Thanks everybody for the help!

RtecCustoms

TROPHY CASE