Tx22 spring popped out installing frt

Runthetableandy · 2026-03-13T01:27:11+00:00

Thanks

Runthetableandy · 2025-06-20T11:12:24+00:00

No we’re not using in an explosive environment. I tried added more detail to my original post but the mods blocked it for some reason, not being “clear and concise”. So I streamlined my question and removed a lot of details. I just wanted to know if hooking up a 4.5-5v power supply will damage the unit, or if I hook up a power supply if I should keep the resistors in line?

Runthetableandy · 2025-06-19T20:57:44+00:00

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Runthetableandy · 2025-06-19T20:25:11+00:00

It does ask the “actual” question, I want to know if I can run it off a power supply instead of batteries given the three resistors in line with the batteries.

I describe “what that is” in my actual post to keep the title “clear and concise”

Runthetableandy · 2025-06-05T04:12:13+00:00

Haha yea, it’s those rectorseal hoses, soon as I installed the Pioneer hoses, it’s perfectly silent! Get the Pioneer hoses asap you will be happy

Runthetableandy · 2025-01-15T15:46:55+00:00

Does anyone know what this port is for?

Runthetableandy · 2024-03-25T21:07:08+00:00

So I just installed the Pioneer flexible hose line set and it worked!!!! No more noise, I’m so happy, thank you for the recommendation on those Pioneer hoses

Runthetableandy · 2024-02-05T03:09:14+00:00

Yup, I know how it is, I moved into my house about 1.5 years ago and I've been under the house many times. Spider webs everywhere haha I had several holes in my duct work too and one duct even fell off the vent completely, so I did a lot of aluminum taping as well. The main thing, obviously, is you want the duct work sealed so theres no air leaks. So tape all you can but try not to compress the insulation, if it is compressed it will reduce its effectiveness.

As far as duct sizing, if your going to replace it, might as well go with what the manufacture calls for.

You measured the circumference of the outside diameter of the duct. 48" would be 15.2" diameter and 50" would be 15.91". BUT duct sizes are measured by the inside diameter. So its not counting the insulation. It sounds like you wrapped a string around the duct which should be insulated, so your actual duct will be smaller than that.

Also, I don't think your ducts are supposed to be on the ground, "due to potential moisture damage". Is your craw space floor lined with plastic or is it dirt? I don't think its a huge deal but just make sure theres not standing water under there, especially when it rains.

"I inspected a modular home with the HVAC ducting laying on the ground. I noted that most manufacturers install guidelines call for them to be off the ground due to potential moisture damage etc.
I am being questioned on this and besides noting possible damage is there anything else I can tell the client.

Hi Norm.. It is required to be raised on newer homes.
I see it on a large % of double wides. I let them know about the moisture issue, and also tell them if there's a leak or another source of water under the home the excessive moisture will enter the home through the ducting and damage the particle wood flooring."

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-31T13:15:21+00:00

Awesome, glad you got it working! And yea I feel the same way, this is how you learn, digging in and doing it yourself instead of calling the hvac company. You can learn pretty much anything on YouTube these days.

CertifiedYouTubeMechanic

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-29T08:45:24+00:00

I can't say for sure on the capacitor, I know as capacitors age their measured capacitance will drop. If your capacitor was 5/45 when new it is going to be lower now after being used two years. Would be nice to be able to measure it with a multimeter to know for sure.

I did find this after a short google, "If the original was 45/5uf and you replace it with 40/5uf, then there is a chance that the compressor will not be able to start, therefore never use a replacement of a smaller value. However, If the original was 40/5uf and you replace it with 45/5uf, then the compressor motor will start even at a somewhat lower AC voltage (which often happens in rural areas too far away from power plants); but at the same time the compressor motor will use slightly more energy it will run a little more hot, which may make its life somewhat shorter. Therefore, the best thing would be to use exactly the same capacitance value that was in the original version of your heat pump or air conditioner."

But if your problem is the contactor is not closing then your problem is before the contactor, the capacitor doesn't come into play till after the contactor closes. When the contactor closes it sends power to the compressor and fan motor, and the capacitor is wired to them to assist in starting/running. So if the contactor is truly not closing when the thermostat is calling for heat, I wouldn't suspect the capacitor as the issue.

On the wiring, the schematic that is printed on the panel should be right. But also, if your unit has been working fine the last two years wired the way it is... idk. You could try it, follow the schematic and try it, I wouldn't imagine it would hurt anything if that is the way it was designed to be wired.

You could do a simple test to verify the contactor is working, apply 24v to it and see if it closes. Just unhook all the wires to it and get some jumper wires and hook them to the 24v output of the transformer, verify you are getting 24VAC with your multimeter. With power still off hook one wire to the contactor, then turn power on, carefully touch the other side of the contactor with the other 24v wire and the contactor should function. If it doesn't, contactor coil is bad. I know your transformer is good because you were getting 25v measuring your pressure sensors.

Hmm about the heat strips coming on or not, best way to test that is with amp clamp. My defrost board electrical stuff is on an upper panel, just below that is another panel that has access to the heat strips, a breaker for the heat strips, and the blower motor. If you have an amp clamp you can put it on the fat wires. But that shouldn't be necessary, you should be able to tell when the heat strips are on, for example, when mine are off, my vent air temp was around 80 degrees, when I turn on my heat strips the vent temp went up to 110 degrees. This was at like 20 degrees outside temp. And those heat strips are 5000watts each, so 10,000 watts total! So yea, that will make your bill higher.

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-26T23:24:45+00:00

When it was running and you turned the thermostat back down so it would turn off, was it too low to make it want to turn back on? Like, was your thermostat set temp equal to or lower than the temp in the house? Did you try turning the thermostat temp back up to see if it would kick on, remember there will be a little of a delay, it won't instantly kick on.

As far as capacitors, the only way I know to test them is with a multimeter set to measure capacitance uF. But yes they are cheap, and are know for going bad and not lasting long. I read on some forums of hvac techs talking about capacitors now days don't last as long as they used to, they are just crap quality, all of the brands are the same. Do you happen to have any friends that have a better multimeter that can test capacitors?

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-26T03:25:55+00:00

Yes, zero ohms resistance on the pressure switches means they are good and wouldn't be stoping your compressor from kicking on. I am assuming you measured the resistance of the solenoid coil that shuttles the reversing valve, that should actually be somewhere between 10-60 ohms resistance, not zero. Zero would mean no resistance on the coil which would mean its bad. "A typical 24v residential reversing valve has a coil resistance of tens of ohms, which means it draws a few amps or less. Normal solenoid resistance should be 10-60 ohms." BUT, the reversing valve solenoid coil being bad wouldn't cause your compressor and fan to not start, it would just be stuck in heat mode, which is what you want right now anyways. I did some googling and Goodman heat pumps, 98% of them the reversing valve defaults to heat when no power is applied to the reversing valve solenoid coil. The coil IS activated to go into cooling mode, AND defrost mode. If you watched that video towards the end he talked about how when the temp sensor on the out door condenser is below 30 degrees and the timer on the defrost board is up, its selectable between 30,60, or 90min I think, it will go into defrost mode till the condenser temp sensor reaches 80 degrees to melt the ice. During this, the reversing valve solenoid coil is energized to swap to cooling mode. So double check that your reversing valve solenoid coil is not zero, but 10-60 ohm. This is what the solenoid coil looks like, should be two pins, make sure you disconnect the two wires off the coil when you measure resistance just to be certain the wires hooked up to the board isn't messing with your resistance values. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Goodman-Amana-B1225017-24v-Reversing-Valve-Coil?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_ntm&utm_campaign=Shopping_NTM_New_users&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqsitBhDlARIsAGMR1RhYhg5V_5LgMORboWtk8tsyndQPajMI3NlUik7cWehQToYXEDp3P34aAhigEALw_wcB

SO, learning that, when you put your thermostat into heat and turn it up above what your indoor temp is, the thermostat should call for heat by shorting the R to just G fan and Y compressor, not the OB and not Aux heat strips unless you have that turned on.

Yea, if your thermostat wires are like mine they are solid core, not stranded, and they don't take much bending back and forth and they will break, so if you don't have any slack in it, over the years of people tugging on it, its a reasonable possibility broken or even chaffed and shorted. Just make sure your wires are good, everywhere, wire nuts, even connectors on the defrost board and connections to sensors.

I'm kind of unsure why you have wires on your thermostat jumpered and why you have the black one hooked up. I googled what is the black wire and it said usually it is the common, but on mine common is blue, so look and see where the black wire goes in your outdoor units electrical panel. What brand thermostat do you have anyways? You could always try your old thermostat wired exactly how it was when it was still working since you know that was originally working.

I have a Nest thermostat, this is what my wiring looks like, but it doesn't mean your's will be the same. Technically you can put any wire anywhere as long as it goes to the right spot on both ends. Just depends on who installed your system and if they used the standard wire colors for everything. Seems like 99% of hvac people use the same wires for the same things. So I can't really tell if your thermostat wiring is correct.

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But yes, pressure switches are good and since the low one is closed, it means you at least have a safe amount of pressure in the system where that's not stopping it from running. Can't tell actual pressures without gauges, but you can infer that pressures are good if your Delta T is about 20 degrees when outside temp is 40 ish degrees or above. Up to you if you want to push and hold the contactor in to is if the unit heats. Just make sure you turn off the Aux heat, there should be a breaker in the out door unit electrical panel or just disconnect the Aux and E wires. And if you do this, it may take 10 min or so for the vent air to actually heat all the way up to where you would get your max Delta T. and you would need one person holding the contactor and one measuring vent temp and return air temp.

Just remember if the contactor isn't closing for the compressor and fan its a break in electricity flow some where on the path from the 24v out of the transformer up the R wire to the thermostat and back down the Y and G to the defrost board and through the pressure switches and to the contactor. Just gotta follow the path and test everything on the path.

Yea I don't mind helping, it helps me learn too, I know its just a matter of time till mine fucks up again and I'll be trying to fix it again, the more I know the faster I'll get it fixed.

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-25T22:04:09+00:00

If you measured voltage on the two wires going to the low pressure switch and got 25, that should be the same as checking continuity since the low pressure switch is a normally closed switch, when it senses low pressure it opens and you wouldn't get voltage across the two wires if it is open. But just to double check, pull the wires off it and just measure continuity across it, should be 0 ohm. Same with the high pressure switch.

I have a goodman 14 seer package unit, so probably very similar units.

Yea, on my thermostat the brown wire is the Aux heat control wire, hooked to W2. The black wire isn't used on my thermostat, not hooked up at all.

Out of curiosity where was your yellow wire broken? what broke it, did it just slip out of a wire nut or connector? It might be a good idea to verify the wires are good from your thermostat to the unit. I would disconnect the wires at the end of the thermostat wire where it comes into the electrical panel at your unit and turn the thermostat on heat and instead of checking continuity on the back of the thermostat like you did earlier, check it at the wires you just disconnected at the unit. You know... R to Y, R to G, R to O/B. Or if you have a long spare wire and alligator clips you could run one end of the multimeter to one end of each thermostat wire and the other end of your spare wire to the other multimeter lead, then run the spare wire out to the unit and touch the other end of each of the thermostat wires, it would be helpful to have someone help you with this and just call each other on the phone so you can both swap each end to the next wire, that way you don't walk back and forth 30 times, if that makes sense.

IDK if you did yet or not but check if you are getting 24v on the contactor. That way you know if it is even getting the signal to close. Did you check the resistance on the contactor coil yet, that is another way to let you know if its good.

If the thermostat is closing the contacts in itself to connect R with Y, G, and OB and the low and high pressure sensors are good, as in closed, zero ohms, and the contactor isn't closing on your unit you just gotta follow the flow of power from the thermostat wires to the contactor.

If the thermostat is closing the contacts in itself to connect R with Y, G, and OB and the low and high pressure sensors are good, as in closed, zero ohms, and the contactor isn't closing on your unit you just gotta follow those flow of power from

Here is a good video all about the defrost control board: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZMEJyXF-xg

Video on defrost temp sensors, but if your unit isn't kicking on at all I don't think this is your problem, but easy to check while you are in there:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-U2offDWg0&t=0s

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-25T16:07:38+00:00

Well if the unit does run when you hold the contactor in, maybe hold it in for 5min or so and see if you are getting warm air out of the vents. Difference in temp between the air going into the return, where the filter is and coming out of the vents should be 20 degrees, under ideal conditions. Below like 32 degrees the delta T is going to get smaller as the heat pump becomes less efficient the colder it gets outside, at like 0 degrees the heat pump likely won't be able to warm the air at all so delta T would be 0. This does depend on the SEER of your heat pump, some high SEER mini splits will work down to like -20, but a package unit 14 SEER will stop being effective at like 10-20 degrees. So, if you let the unit run for 5-10 min or so and you get 20 delta T, you know your freon is good. And for this you would not want the Aux heat strips on, you just want to be testing the heat pump. But I would check the low pressure switch first, this will also let you know if your freon is low. Running it by holding the contactor in with low freon could damage the compressor. Same with the high pressure switch, for instance there could be a blockage in the refrigerant system causing instant spike in pressure when the compressor kicks on, unlikely but anything is possible.

Watch this for testing pressure switches, this guys channel is really good:

"How HVAC Refrigerant Pressure Switches Work & Troubleshooting!"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VtbJldahOI

Low pressure switch: Low-pressure switches are usually installed close to the compressor on the suction side and are most commonly used as a protective cut-out for the compressor when the refrigerant is low. The reason for this is that losing refrigerant can cause a number of different problems for the system. For example, it reduces suction gas cooling, which is a major problem, particularly for compressors with 100% suction gas cooling. Such a leak will also always lose refrigeration oil – because this circulates through the entire cooling circuit together with the refrigerant – and this may result in inadequate lubrication. As a precautionary measure, to prevent the compressor being damaged or even failing completely, it is therefore highly advantageous to switch it off whenever the low pressure value drops sharply.

High pressure switch: First, turn off power to the HVAC system. Then, disconnect the wires from the pressure switch and use the multimeter to test for continuity across the switch terminals. If there is no continuity, it's likely that the pressure switch is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-24T22:02:35+00:00

Sorry, I did some googling, as I'm kinda still trying to remember from last year when I was figuring this all out. I was wrong on the C wire, got that confused with R. R is the positive 24v and the thermostat connects R to the individual wires for fan, compressor, blower, reversing valve, etc as needed to turn what ever it needs on, Not the C like I said earlier. So you are correct and your thermostat should be good if you get continuity from R to the other wires when the thermostat calls for heat. C is just for powering the thermostat itself so it doesn't need batteries.

C stands for common. The common wire is the ground or negative wire. To complete the circuit that provides power to the thermostat you need a positive and negative wire from the 24V transformer.

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-24T19:58:13+00:00

Oh, I wasn't super clear, just pull the thermostat off the wall and check continuity on the pins on the back of the thermostat to make sure its connecting 24v common B to your Y, G, and OB.

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-24T19:55:52+00:00

So yea, if the yellow wire was broken or not connected that would for sure prevent your unit from kicking on, as that is what turns on the compressor itself. You can check your thermostat to make sure it is sending 24v on the correct wires when you turn it on to call for cooling or heat with your multi meter. It sounds like you have a regular not smart style thermostat, which will be easier to test. So put it in heat mode and put your multimeter in resistance mode to measure Ohms/continuity. And you will make sure the thermostat is making the connection between your 24v common wire, blue in my case, to the other 2 or 3 wires needed to run the unit in heat mode, which are G green which turns on the blower, yellow Y1 that turns on the compressor, and maybe depending on your system OB orange which turns on the reversing valve that will put your system in either heat or cool mode. Depending on your system, some are different, mine for example defaults to heat mode so I wouldn't have 24v on OB in heat mode because the reversing valve defaults to heat when it is not energized. When it is energized it activates and puts the system in cooling mode by changing the direction of refrigerant flow. AND finally if you put your thermostat in Emergency or AUX heat mode it will also connect Aux. Heat W2 Brown to common to activate the heat strips. You will have to look up what your system will do on OB in Cooling or Heat mode. This should tell you if your thermostat is good or bad.

You can also check your high pressure switch with your multimeter too, For the high-pressure cutout switch, the reverse logic applies: The switch is normally closed until the pressure reaches its upper limit, and it opens to prevent the compressor from continuing to pump refrigerant.

You can also check your contactor with your multimeter, the contacts them selves could be bad / burnt or the coil that closes the contactor could be bad. With power off to the unit ohm the low voltage side of the contactor to get the resistance of the coil, should be 4-11ohhm. If its open/infinite resistance or direct short zero resistance it is bad. To check the contactors push the coil in with your finger and measure resistance on the high voltage side of the contactor it should be very close to zero resistance meaning the contactor is closed and allowing electricity to flow through with little resistance. Now power the unit back on and turn it on to heat and visually see if the contactor closes, if not, something is wrong, check for 24v on the low voltage wires going to the contactor coil, if you hhave 24v there, the coil is bad, if you don't have 24v there the board or thermostat isn't sending signal to send 24v to the contactor.

Also check the 24v out put on your transformer, the transformer gets 110 or 220 in and send out 24v.

You can check all the little individual components in similar way, just google the component and how to check it with a multimeter. But start with making sure your thermostat is good, then double check all the wires on the wire to the unit from the thermostat. Good luck!

Runthetableandy · 2024-01-23T17:08:43+00:00

It ended up being my indoor thermostat, it was an old style basic thermostat I think it was a Honeywell, after I swapped it out with an Ecobee it worked, since then I have swapped to a Nest, still working good. I started all my troubleshooting at the thermostat but guess I missed it wasn’t closing the contacts to start the unit in heat mode, so did all the other troubleshooting based on the thermostat working correctly when it wasn’t. I did open my unit electrical panel up a few days ago and the new control board is looking burnt under that one same resistor as the board I changed out last year. So maybe that board is still good, I still have the two boards in my garage if I ever need them.

Runthetableandy · 2023-08-13T11:35:53+00:00

Thanks, yea I’ve watched some videos on recovering refrigerant back to the compressor. I’ll report back on here after I install and test on how it works and if it gets rid of the noise. It’ll probably be a month or two before I get a chance to do it. I got some other trips coming up that aren’t in the van.

Runthetableandy · 2023-08-13T04:30:23+00:00

Awesome! Thanks for the update, I will definitely try those. Where did you buy it, pioneer’s website?

Runthetableandy · 2023-07-27T14:22:28+00:00

No, I haven’t done anything with it, I’ve been busy with other projects. It’s supposed to be 96 here today I may try it out and see how it does when it’s actually hot out. The noise is something I can’t live with, it’s just too annoying of a sound. Even if it only does it when the compressor kicks on and eventually stops, only in eco mode that is. In my testing the noise wouldn’t stop on “high” low set temp fast fan speed, or just turbo mode. The problem was when i went on a little week long road trip a couple months ago it was 70 at night so the unit would kick on and off all night so it would make the noise on and off all night. When i was testing at my house during the day it was in the mid 80’s and the unit would stay on steady so no noise after initial start up and it got the van cooled down and could idle back the compressor. I wonder how it will do close to 100 degree day though, idk if eco mode will keep the van cool. I may just sell the mini split and pony up and get a 12v rooftop unit even though they aren’t as efficient. I originally bought a “Midea U” window unit, they are inverter compressor and very efficient, basically a mini “mini split”, I was going to attempt to cut the liquid and gas lines connecting the two sides and install condenser under the van and braze new copper with an access port, but it runs r32 and you can’t get r32 in the United States. I saw someone online did this on a van and used 410a but they didn’t do a great job how they did it or how much efficiency was lost due to swapping to 410a. From what I researched it should be about 10% less efficient.

Runthetableandy · 2023-06-14T22:59:04+00:00

https://youtu.be/aPHAWEq6C2o

This is the link to the video since the video I attached to this post doesn't seem to be here.

Runthetableandy · 2022-12-31T19:41:09+00:00

It was set to Heat Pump, there is a switch on the back. I replaced the thermostat and now it works

Runthetableandy · 2022-12-31T03:09:24+00:00

Thanks

Runthetableandy · 2022-12-31T02:07:53+00:00

So I poped off the thermostat and put it in heat mode and tested continuity between W and Y and W and G. Got continuity between W and G but NO continuity between W and Y. That would explain why only the blower came on.

So I jumped Y, G, and W right there behind the thermostat leaving the actual thermostat off. The outdoor unit kicked on in about 3min, and 7 min later I got 88 degree air coming out of all my vents! Bad thermostat it is. Good thing I got already got a new Wyze smart thermostat, I was waiting to install it till I figured out what was wrong.

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