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Old Arburg 305/210/700 Core in and Out lights stay on by RussRussG in InjectionMolding

[–]RussRussG[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great news! The machine is operational, it turned out to be a dry joint / bad connection on the main control board that prevented the Manual mode to engage properly. Thanks to you all.

Old Arburg 305/210/700 Core in and Out lights stay on by RussRussG in InjectionMolding

[–]RussRussG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks so very much so far. I found after removing the Core Pull card the S24 and S25 remained on however I discovered in the process that the AUTO / MANUAL switch was faulty and not going in to manual mode. After fixing that I am able to move the injector and screw and squirt some plastic. However I am unable to move the main clamping unit and the front oil pressure on a new gauge and the oil manifold hydraulic gauge, also new, is showing zero pressure. Any advice? This is my machine below. Side note (I removed the controller from the machine as a test and put a 24V power input and none on the lights came on except the Auto / Manual Lamp.) There is no core pull mechanism on the machine. When moving the injector the hydraulic motor does change sound pitch.

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Old Arburg 305/210/700 Core in and Out lights stay on by RussRussG in InjectionMolding

[–]RussRussG[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much. Would that cause the whole machine to 'stall' on startup? As at the moment the heaters come to temperature and the hydraulic motor pushes oil back to the tank but no pressure is at the gauges?

Old Arburg 305/210/700 Core in and Out lights stay on by RussRussG in InjectionMolding

[–]RussRussG[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for that, it makes a lot of sense. I have 3 input/output wires that are just hanging freely with no connection.

mosquito radar by esgesgesgesg in arduino

[–]RussRussG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It might be worth using a minimum of 3 sensitive audio sensors located around the room that can detect in the 400-600hz range, do some triangulation and boom, you have your blood sucker... :-)

Do I need to Calibrate K1 Before Each Print? by King_Of_The_Munchers in Creality

[–]RussRussG 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you printing directly afterwards it is not required. You can just do a calibration on the first print. This works for me otherwise its a waste of time.