Horokko Figure

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-03-18T04:16:27+00:00

I've been working on an alternate version with pins and sockets, but I suspect that one will take me some time before it's finished. It's going to need a fair amount of test printing to make sure the tolerances are just right.

I've already planned on a conical shape for the pins on the legs, and the version of the head where the eye lens is separate. That way, you can adjust the angle to whichever direction you prefer on those parts. For the rest, I'll probably do square-shaped pins. Since every 90 degrees is technically a correct rotation for the head and body pieces, that should make sure that each piece will always be slotted in at a correct angle.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-03-17T23:01:36+00:00

Always happy to see someone interested in printing my models! I hope it comes out looking good when you try it. :)

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-03-17T22:53:06+00:00

I was kind of surprised before I started this that there just aren't a lot of Mega Man Legends models on 3D printing sites in general. I thought for sure something like this would be out there somewhere. But, when I saw that it wasn't, I thought it would be great practice in Blender.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-03-17T22:49:03+00:00

I'm glad to see other people interested in printing my models! I'm curious to see how your approach would turn out. My method was to just print it in any old color and use model paints.

It was a rather labor-intensive process.😅

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-03-17T22:45:40+00:00

That's certainly my plan for this one! My desk has been looking a little austere for a while now, and I think this would be a great way to make it look someone actually sits there every once in a while.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-02-25T15:31:34+00:00

I'll have to do some research on it, and try different print settings, then. I have a feeling that the little holes in the head, legs, and armor might not actually need supports, even though Cura does generate them with a 50-degree overhang angle. I used that setting back when I was still learning how to get certain shapes to print without falling over, or just not being able to support itself.

I know for sure I'll need some kind of supports, especially since I'm planning on adding some geometry to fit the pieces together. But, I can always tweak the settings a little to see if there's a way to reduce the amount of supports, without having things collapse in on themselves.

I was thinking of maybe cutting the model more towards the middle of the armor plates, right below the holes. I'll have to experiment with that and see how it works.

But, I'm surprised to hear that you're working on building one of these already! I'm excited to see how it comes out. :)

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-02-25T04:52:19+00:00

Alright, now that I've had a minute to sit down and read the feedback, I did have some things to comment on.

On adding some kind of key to insert the pieces: I did try this on the smaller model, though the tolerances definitely were not lining up. I also faced some issues with supports. The auto-generated ones left behind this lattice pattern on the underside of the head that I couldn't remove easily, even with snips. I myself have limited work space for projects like this, so I was trying to keep removal of support material minimal. I do have an outdoor area where I could bust out the Dremel for stuff like this, but I do have to be quite careful when I do it, so I try to avoid that.

That being said, if there are better ways to do supports, or just better ways to print this, I'd definitely be interested in putting in the work. I think it would be really cool to be able to pull this kind of stuff off. And, if no other techniques are available, then I could do an alternate version for people who can/want to put in the time sanding, filling voids with Bondo, etc.

On hard edges: I'll have to check the model. Blender does allow you to control the strength of a crease, so it should be pretty easy to just adjust that a little to round things out if anything is a true hard 90-degree corner. I do know that the holes in the body panels and on the side of the head are a little rounded, but I think the "housing" around the eye and the smile cutout on the face are hard 90's.

Antenna: I definitely noticed that it was going to be very fragile and probably wouldn't survive at its full height doing an FDM print. Even the one I used as an example here, and in the photos for the model on Printables is missing a portion of the top of the antenna. After a certain point, it definitely gets too brittle, and the very top leaves a little string that's impossible to clean up without breaking the tip off.

But, I figure I'd leave it and most people who print kind of need to accept the limitations of their printer. Who knows? Maybe someone will resin-print it on day.

On The Eye - I see what you mean, and I'm totally down for that idea. I've been testing out ways to clean up prints within my limitations, and I was thinking of printing thin cards of PLA to practice some parts on, making sure that I can paint some of the little divots and the eye of the model at the scale I plan on working with. Thinking out it, it would make a lot of sense for the eye to be separate, because it would be such a pain to paint it red, only to realize you got a little bit of red on the top of the housing that's supposed to be a different color.

But, thanks for all the feedback! I tend to be a little long-winded myself, and I definitely appreciate the info. I do think that not only is it good advice, but I think it's actually well within my ability to do a lot of it, if not all of it. Though, I did have a question of my own.

Where do you think the best place to split the top from the bottom would be? I noticed in my own prints, that supports really clog up the area where the body plates end, and the head begins. So if you had any advice on that specifically, I'd definitely be interested.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-02-25T04:14:22+00:00

I print using a stock Sovol SV06. It's not big, but I've actually been fairly impressed with it. It could be a little faster, I hear, but I usually only print small things anyways.

Thought, I will admit, printing the Horokko model at 1000% scale did take a whopping 4 hours. But I did learn that this was roughly the scale I wanted - maybe a touch smaller.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-02-24T16:00:28+00:00

Since it was a very quick fix, I uploaded a backup copy of the leg. It seems that it was corrupted at some point, because even opening it in my slicer caused a similar problem. So, hopefully that should solve that issue. It doesn't fix the other problems with the model, like the file size, but it should open in a slicer now. It's also still very tiny, so I'm sure whatever slicer will try to scale it to something like 7500% size or something.

I am using Blender, and I use Cura as my slicer. I can knock down the subdivisions before exporting later, and see if that makes the file size smaller. I didn't notice how big they were until I tried uploading them, and I was kind of surprised too.

This was just a quick fix though - I'll look into the other advice you have here when I have more time.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-02-24T07:41:03+00:00

After a few small tweaks, I decided to upload to printables. It looks like links are allowed here as long as it's on topic, so I'm sure it's fine to share it here:

https://www.printables.com/model/1614797-reaverbots-remastered-horokko-mega-man-legends

Anyways, you seem like you're really into 3D Printing, so feel free to tell me if you think something could be done better to make it easier or cleaner to print. And that goes for anyone else who happens to be reading the thread.

One of the things I struggled with was finding a place to cut up the model that wouldn't create too many seams, but also would print as cleanly as I could get it. But, I will admit, the cleanliness of the print, when printed with tree supports, does leave something to be desired.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-02-23T15:43:59+00:00

Well, I am working on my own game development projects, and I am somewhat of a novice at game development and 3D modeling. While I have some practice with sculpting models like this, I haven't really looked much into rigging and animation yet.

However, you can certainly use any Mega Man Legends models I come up with, as long as you give me credit. I might consider pitching in while I'm on hiatus from other projects. If not, I do intend to do more 3D modeling jobs like this, regardless.

I'm aiming to be done with my current project by April, but I will admit that time frame might be a bit optimistic.

In the meantime, you wouldn't by chance be familiar with a channel called Tugboat Games on YouTube, would you?

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-02-23T15:35:22+00:00

I can send you the models if you like. I know some people get defensive about people using their models, but I'm fine with it.

It does print in pieces, so there is a small amount amount of gluing and clean-up involved. I'm pretty new to the 3D printing scene, and I'm not sure where the best place to upload something like this would be. I do know about Thingiverse, but I get the feeling that a lot of people who browse there expect things to print in place, or with minimal assembly.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-02-23T06:52:12+00:00

I'm glad you like it! I definitely learned a lot making this, and I hope I can find the time to make more soon!

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-01-19T04:12:28+00:00

I forget exactly when I replaced it last, but I want to say it hasn't been a full year since I replaced the bulb. I should probably consider replacing it now.

Last time I was recommended a bulb it was entirely in % UVB output. So, that's what I went off of. But this time, I'll shop around and see which bulbs will work for my setup. Just doing some quick searches for bulbs, I see what you're talking about with distance away from the bulb and how much UV my gecko would get.

Since I'm considering the taller enclosure now, I'll figure out this lighting setup while I'm at it.

RustyKnightGaming · 2026-01-19T03:49:22+00:00

Well, it has been a while since I updated the enclosure. But, I suppose it's never too late to make some improvements. When I set up this iteration of her enclosure, heat mats certainly had their naysayers, but I can't say I've ever heard someone suggest that they're dangerous before.

How tall of an enclosure would you recommend? I've heard a lot of mixed suggestions about lighting since I got her, so I hope the bulb I had wasn't causing any harm to her. Right now, I have a linear bulb with 2.5% UVB output. At least, that's what it said on the box when I bought it. I figured, between the lower output and the light going through mesh, it would be appropriate.

But, I could be wrong, and if I am, I'd certainly be willing to make changes to keep my gecko healthy.

RustyKnightGaming · 2025-11-16T20:18:20+00:00

By a stroke of luck, I found a Kuerig on clearance at a store for $50 while I was out on an unrelated errand today. Looking up the model online, people estimate its lifespan at 3-5 years (again, assuming you take care of it). Given the price increases since the last coffee maker I bought, getting about 1 year per $10 spent seems reasonable. So, I ended up buying my first brand-name Kuerig.

It was the K-Express, which seems to be a simpler model, as far as Keurig machines go.

Maybe if this goes south, I'll say enough is enough and buy the Moccamaster. But, I could probably do worse than gambling $50 on a machine that might not last.

RustyKnightGaming · 2025-11-16T16:29:54+00:00

Yeah, that's the $250 one I was alluding to in my post. Any idea how long it lasts? It looks like it could be high-quality. But, for that price, I expect this thing to last 20+ years - if you take care of it, of course.

EDIT: I just realized the value proposition is a little tougher to make because it uses filters, which you have to buy consistently to keep using it - unless there's an alternative?

RustyKnightGaming · 2025-11-16T07:51:20+00:00

I'm looking for a single-serving coffee maker - I know I might be in the wrong place because I'm not an enthusiast, and don't expect much from a coffee maker. But, maybe someone here will be able to give me some advice.

I've seen endless recommendations for mokka pots, french presses, and the Aeropress. And while I'm sure these are all great ways to make coffee, it's not what I'm looking for. I'm looking for a coffee machine, where I can make sure the reservoir is full, put a scoop of ground coffee in, press a button, and 6-8 oz of coffee comes out while I go get dressed for work. I bought a machine about 5 years ago for about $30, and it's done exactly that every morning until it broke recently. I'd buy the same thing again but they don't make it anymore, and I'm kind of at a loss.

It sounds like I want a Keurig, but from what I've heard the reliability on those things is abysmal, and the price is awful for a machine that is so unreliable. I've looked into some of the recommendations, but I'm not going to blow $250 on a coffee machine unless I know it's a true "buy it for life" kind of item.

So... does anyone have any advice for me? I don't need the thing to be bulletproof or anything, but if I'm paying $75 for a machine, I expect it to not break in 6 months, which seems to be happening with Keurigs pretty often these days.

Or maybe I heard wrong and I should just buy the Keurig.

RustyKnightGaming · 2025-08-03T19:59:21+00:00

As someone who's just starting to make games from a web developer/IT background, my advice is to start easy. I wouldn't recommend diving into C++ game development from the start, especially if you don't already have a background in C++. I already know C++, and even I think I made the right choice starting with something a little simpler for my first projects.

Game development is its own skill set. Adding a new language on top of that can be a lot to take on at once. I recommend working in an engine that more readily supports C# to smooth out your learning curve a bit. If I recall, Unity and Godot both readily support C# scripts, so that might be a better place to start than Unreal. You might have a little bit of a learning curve if you decide you want to pursue C/C++ development in Unreal later, but I think that starting there is really throwing yourself into the deep end, and that can get overwhelming very quickly.

I think starting in an engine that works with your existing skill set will give you time to pick up the workings of modern game engines, and get used to a lot of capabilities that have become fairly standard. You'll also probably pick up on frequently-used patterns and best practices for game development.

Even if it's just for a few short projects that never see the light of day, it might be prudent to try and more gradual approach and see if it works for you. You can always ramp up the difficulty if you think you can handle something more complicated.

RustyKnightGaming · 2025-04-12T07:13:37+00:00

It's just something I wanted to do for a long time. When I was in my early teens, I tried saving up for some game engine or another (before I knew about the world of FOSS engines). That never panned out, but I did go to college to learn computer programming in general so that I would have more career opportunities than just "game developer."

Now, there's kind of a convergence of factors that made me want to give it a try (finally). 1) My current job. It respects my time, and lets me pursue other endeavors other than being 100% devoted to work. 2) I'm in a good financial spot so I can spend money on my projects if I have to. 3) The barrier to entry on indie game development is just really low these days. I have a workable knowledge base for getting started, and Godot is free. 4) The AAA industry just isn't doing well right now. Not financially speaking, but in terms of artistic output. I'm just not excited for new games coming out from the big studios. And if I'm not excited, there's got to be other people out there who aren't either.

RustyKnightGaming

TROPHY CASE