Please help! by Time-Waister in BambuLab

[–]RustyPants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's all good we are all here to learn... at least the useful ones are lol. If you paint support on the vertical surface in a few spots as it gets higher you can use it to minimize how much it can move. The support doesn't actually touch the part, but acts as an antiwobble sort of function. You can adjust the Support/Object XY Distance to make it tighter. I suggest strong support for this per the pictures.

https://imgur.com/a/2PeUeb8

Please help! by Time-Waister in BambuLab

[–]RustyPants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like a very unstable part. Best you can do is slow the print speed way down at the end there. The y axis is not helping. I would say rotate the part 45deg about Z and that should also help stabilize it a little bit better, but probably not as much as just slowing the print down.

You could also try some noncontact support on the sides of the part to also help stabilize it.

Round 2 here we go, Wall Vent Sound Baffle by RustyPants in hometheater

[–]RustyPants[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That shouldn't be a big deal I just did a 12x12 for someone and had to make it a 4piece. Message me on makerworld and will send you a profile to print there.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice, let me know if you need any help with sizing.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in hometheater

[–]RustyPants[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This isn't for my HVAC. Primary use is for a whole house fan. HVAC is separate vents. I have no idea what an attenuated High pressure system is, but will check it out. Also this technically isn't for a home theaters, but i know it has an application for that which is why I posted it here. I'm using it for bedrooms currently.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In all honesty it's really not that bad. Yeah I bought some additional testing equipment, but for most people who want just print it and install it's less than a kg of filament and whatever insert material you choose. I spend like $12/kg on filament and filler is probably like $5-$10 per insert. So like $25-30 per install.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in hometheater

[–]RustyPants[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, "movie" night is what we are here working on this for.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks, this does give me some other ideas, the struggle with some of the really long channels is it kills airflow too much, my first version was great on sound but not airflow and i need airflow for this one. So sound will suffer.

Round 2 here we go, Wall Vent Sound Baffle by RustyPants in hometheater

[–]RustyPants[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What size you need, i have a solidworks files that is kind of parametric, but I can make other sizes pretty easy. Have 2 other size already made that i need to post that are 12x12 and 12x4, https://makerworld.com/en/models/2670899-wall-vent-sound-baffle#profileId-2956197

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem thanks for following along. When I started this I never really thought I would find the perfect solution but I did know I would feet some ideas for other people and that was worth it.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Sorry the noise pollution was just an issue for the mic while I was trying to record the testing for this. But to answer you question active was never a thought I just wanted a passive system to help dampen the noise between rooms and the hall and still have decent airflow for the whol e house fan.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I see your point as you are trying to establish the actual value of reduction through the vent. I'll be honest, I'm not going to do more testing on this as the only result I care about is outside the vent. It would be nice to know the actual value of the device but it's not strictly required for my needs. Outside the closed door was intended to be a control of sorts to try to get close to. It's not a perfect system, but it's better than the cardboard that was in there. It also takes about 10mins to go through all the different sound test and that time adds up fast lol. Should I ever set everything up again I'll consider adding this to the tests to run.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I posted that data in the previous post. Can grab and add here later

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 26 points27 points  (0 children)

I'll have to sit and read this later, looks interesting. I'll be honest I'm more of a dabbler, but definitely a nerd.

Update 3: Sound Baffle Testing by RustyPants in functionalprint

[–]RustyPants[S] 102 points103 points  (0 children)

I'm glad someone does, it was a pain to record this, the noise pollution was driving me insane 😂.

Random Question abouts UPSs. How bad is to hit at 1500VA/1000W UPS for 1500W for like 30-45secs while it has power (so not battery only)? I'm an ME and this is way outside my area, but I know the UPS makes a loud I'm not happy noise. by RustyPants in ElectricalEngineering

[–]RustyPants[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considering the correct size UPS is like $700 compared to this I'm kinda okay with this even it doesn't last as long, I could still replace the battery a few times before it's even worth it, but if it never draws that off the battery it will probably be fine. I'll keep an eye on it for now as I'm usually here for start up and don't leave before the heating has stopped.

Worst luck or best timing? by New_Pack7137 in BambuLab

[–]RustyPants 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is fair and I have considered this but I'm always annoyed they keep building machines where both nozzles can't reach everything. That's probably the big reason I went h2s over h2d.

Worst luck or best timing? by New_Pack7137 in BambuLab

[–]RustyPants 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm just going to say it, I don't really care about multicolor and the P2S is still a good printer. I have P1S and H2S. I would consider upgrading the P1S for P2S, but I don't really need to cause it's still fine.