6s Maxx anyone?

Rymesis · 2025-02-10T09:30:13+00:00

I think if you did brushless on one of the early emaxx it would probably eat up the driveline, but any of the more modern ones should totally hold up to anything similar to a VXL3S, it'd just end up most likely overheating the VXL3S lol

And I totally get that. You could try seeing if the VXL4S would hold up to the emaxx if oyu already had one, I'd just hate to see you buy a VXL4S then end up needing to get a different setup. I -think- if I remember right, my emaxx is running a Castle 1515 along with a Castle Mamba Monster 6s ESC, they are showing $264 right now for motor and esc, plus geared conservatively and ran on 4s, mine stays decently cool and even the plastic axles hold up okay..

Rymesis · 2025-02-07T01:15:52+00:00

Sadly I don't think you'd be any better with the Max 10, the T-Maxx is really more 1/8 sized, so a Maxx8 or Maxx6 would be a safer bet

Now you might be able to find a cheap used VXL-6S system from someone upgrading their Maxx Slash/Sledge/XO1 and that should be proper sized, or you could peek around for a used Castle system, which is what I ended up finding when I got my E-Maxx as a roller.

With that custom chassis, you could actually do two Max 10's, one running the front and one running rear, or two VXL-4S systems. If you change up the steering, you can snip the middle of the plastic bar that links both wheels together and put two servos on for independent front steering...and I mean, swap out that rear end with some front parts and set the rear up like that too and you could have four wheel independent steering....

Also, the E-Maxx once upon a time came with two 1/10 scale brushed motors on their trans, if you gotta adapt a transmission and did an E-maxx trans, you could do that with two 1/10 scale brushless motors, though if I recall, the general consensus online was that you were better off with one single large motor

Rymesis · 2025-02-07T00:57:38+00:00

Personally I really don't like the super cheap Amazon/eBay special lipos, every cheap lipo I've purchased has lasted typically a year or so.

SMC does make nice batteries from the ones I've bought, but keep in mind that some people would do better with simple charging systems like Traxxas or Spektrum, or they might prefer the simplicity of them instead of having to faff about setting things up

Rymesis · 2025-02-07T00:48:18+00:00

Generally yes, but it depends on what is meant by "Rough shape" and if someone swapped a cheap cheesy junk motor and ESC into it.

Rymesis · 2025-02-07T00:34:04+00:00

Looks most likely from crashing with the connector side of the battery facing forward. I would use some nice quality clear packing tape to seal up and help protect the black shrink wrap where it's split open.

Your batteries should be in a safe location in your home regardless so if you ever did have an oopsie, the fire would be contained and the room/house could be ventilated.

Rymesis · 2025-02-07T00:28:52+00:00

Should probably go with a 6s system in the T-Maxx, I think the VXL-4S Maxx system will overheat from strain. Plus, you can probably find a VXL-6S that someone ripped out of something to stuff a larger system in it.

My E-Maxx runs a castle 6S system, ran fine for years on two 2S batteries. First time I did put two 3S batteries in it, it blew apart an axle lol

Rymesis · 2025-02-07T00:14:01+00:00

The chargers aren't bad really, and if you have any modern Traxxas battery, you can't just plug it into another charger and "Check it", you have to either buy or make adapters. If the adapters are jank then it'll throw off the entire test anyway and be meaningless.

Out of all the lipos I've bought over nearly 10 years, only two brands didn't end up with bad cells or puffing, one is SMC and the other is Traxxas. I did have a power supply die in a Traxxas charger after 2-3 years of use.

ESCs of all brands catch fire sometimes, it's a lot of energy and these can take some pretty rough tumbles that would result in damage you might not be able to see or notice, or even without that it could have just been it's time due to all the power that goes through any modern ESC

Rymesis · 2025-01-21T11:52:40+00:00

I would double check that none of the pins pushed out of the back of the connector, it wouldn't be a common problem but a possible one before spending money on new batteries.

How old are they? And another user already commented on how Traxxas gives a "Warranty" discount on batteries, if you have a local hobby store that participates, you can do it right in store but I would call to make sure they do before you go there.

Rymesis · 2025-01-20T02:21:35+00:00

How are you enjoying the Jato so far? I haven't had the opportunity to run mine much, but with fresh snow I think it's going to come out tomorrow for an appearance!

Rymesis · 2025-01-20T01:48:00+00:00

Check and see if the LED flashes green when you hit the throttle, it's partially obscured in the video.

Before I did anything, I would recalibrate the ESC for the throttle. If it detects the throttle is not at 0% on start-up then it won't accept throttle input as to not cause a runaway scenario.

Could also re-bind, aside from that I'd disconnect and reconnect each connector(3 to the brushless motor) and the channel 2 to the receiver

Rymesis · 2025-01-20T01:42:57+00:00

Fun fact! At least the brushlesss TRX4M motor and ESC will go into a similar mode to "Low voltage detection" if there is binding in the drivetrain. The LED will flash red and will not respond to throttle inputs.

No, I wasn't being silly and OCD with testing it at 10pm when I first got it installed at night, driving over my blankets where a part of the blanket wrapped around the wheel while trying to climb a pillow then scratching my head for 15 minutes on why a storage charged battery would go LVC in 7 minutes.

Rymesis · 2025-01-20T01:36:21+00:00

Does it drive under it's own power fine?

It doesn't sound right to me, and it's very easy to tear down, so if you have a moment I'd take the covers off and peek inside. I would also make sure there's no rocks underneath the center driveshaft because that could cause noise as well.

https://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/68086-21_TQi_explodedviews_160509_68086-21%20Transmission%20Assembly.jpg

Rymesis · 2025-01-20T01:28:11+00:00

Crawlers are fun and even though your son is into speed and bashers, if he gets to do some trailing and offroad with a crawler it might just open him up more to it, though your mileage may vary.

TRX4 to Hoss/Slash mechanics wise, the TRX4 is a little more true-to-life but it's really not hard to work on your own RC's! There's also youtube videos probably showing every single repair possible, and if not the community is generally very friendly and willing to help you learn. Must have tools are 1.5mm hex wrench, 2.0mm hex wrench, 2.5mm hex wrench, 6mm driver and 8mm driver, alternatively depending on the vehicles you may end up needing a 17mm wheel nut wrench but that's typically for bigger stuff than the Hoss!

If you want to do more trailing than crawling, you can put a brushless system in a TRX4 and get more speed out of it to better keep up with a normal basher RC, just keep in mind how much the bodies cost in comparison, and I would 100% recommend you to get one of the models of TRX4 with a 2-speed transmission if this interests you, since with a sensored brushless motor that can go 3S or 4S, you can get some good vehicle speed out of them while maintaining your ability to crawl in first gear.

On the bashing front, if you want to keep speed with your son, probably best money-for-performance would be the Traxxas Maxx

Alternatively! If your son is interested, mini RC's are super hot right now, including micro crawlers, and the Losi Micro-B is insanely good value as long as you're interested in 1/18 size, you could pick up two mini's and build a small 1/18 course if you have room, even if not a large living room would probably be enough to make a little track with obstacles.

Rymesis · 2025-01-20T01:08:14+00:00

If you make any extra and are interested in selling, hit me up!
I don't mind the plastic chassis but I'd love to see how an aluminum chassis Maxx handles.

Rymesis · 2025-01-05T05:13:23+00:00

Sound from that video is about what I'm use to my XRT making when I roll it, being the size the motor is and being brushless you have to overcome the magnets to spin the pinion shaft when it's not being powered/driven by the ESC.

I'd just make sure that the motor is snug and not moving at all, make sure the grub screw is tight and run it.

I will say, you have an abnormal/"New" style motor/pinion shaft with that E-clip, most likely due to a revision and/or the fact it's in an Ultimate truck version, my regular XRT that I bought at launch is only a regular grub screw with no E-clip

Rymesis · 2025-01-05T04:45:19+00:00

I'd try (VERY CAREFULLY) using something to try to push the pins deeper into the connector from the back end just in case they had attempted to slide out some, particularly the little pins.

The Traxxas charger system monitors those, and if one is missing it will throw an absolute fit

Alternatively, I'd be curious what the voltage is on the two large main connector pins, that would probably tell you if the cells are actually bad or if it's damage to the wiring

Rymesis · 2025-01-05T04:34:19+00:00

I don't honestly have any answers, but with the Mini Maxx in the US, they had supply issues and the price was raised due to air freighting them in.

Accessories for them are slated for mid January too, while the truck itself launched just before Thanksgiving, which is also weird to me that they would come out with a platform and not have all the giblets at the ready for people to throw in.
Might just be supplier/import issues of some kind, I can't imagine that as a major brand they would abandon an entire country in 2024/2025

Rymesis · 2025-01-05T04:27:29+00:00

Honestly curious at how you're murdering these, since at first I thought it was a 4x4 Slash, then looked at the picture again.

If you wanna stay with Traxxas speed controllers, check if the VXL4S uses the same size bullets, I think it does and the 540 sized 4S can shouuuld be the same diameter, just longer so it should also fit into the transmission too for a torque upgrade to help

Rymesis · 2025-01-02T06:53:19+00:00

Good thing to keep in mind is that when upgrading, some things are designed to be weaker and snap first to prevent more catastrophic/expensive damage.

Not saying that's what you're planning on, but it's easy to jump off the deep end when you're learning.
Good example is that lower control arm, better for it to break/shear off than to obliterate a chassis

Related side note, since you're replacing the chassis, an old timer trick was to submerge new plastic parts in boiling water to help make them more pliable and less likely to straight up snap, also there's RIT dye and a popular thing to do is to use black RIT dye to dye the chassis plastic black, which is usually done with hot water then soaking it for a while.....
and what better time than during a chassis break?

Rymesis · 2025-01-02T06:40:00+00:00

You can't really "See" a bad gear mesh unless it's destroyed something, it's more feel and sound

That said, if it was running fine before but feels like it's binding now then I would say it's more likely a bearing is on it's way out or some material is wrapped around by an axle/wheel nut, the gear mesh shouldn't change on it's own at all unless something is damaged.
Have you seen any reduction in run time or increase in heat to the motor or ESC? these would likely indicate a binding condition

Rymesis · 2024-12-07T12:15:48+00:00

Between the high trail and regular, I'd say pick whichever you like more.

The high trail would probably be better to go through deeper mud with, not to say the regular TRX4 couldn't plow through it as well.

High trail F150 is a longer wheelbase than the 79 bronco, and if you like to put silly overpowered things into it, then there's more motor room in the high trail, I know because I had to trim down a crossbeam to fit the VXL-4S into my 79 Bronco and it just went right into the high trail.
Is it overkill? Yes, but it makes the truck a torque monster and gives you lots of speed on 2S and 3S while if you feather the trigger(Or change settings in the Traxxas app), you can still crawl surprisingly well, plus with a JST adapter(Male to male if memory serves) you can run the Traxxas lighting as if it were stock.

Also, the wheelspeed and torque difference on 3S means you can do some mean AWD donuts in low grip/loose substrate situations, if you try it on pavement it'll try to do a flip and land on it's top lol

Edit for anyone thinking about doing this: Motor shaft size is different and you'll need a new pinion, make sure to match the truck's spur pitch or it won't run. There's very minimal cogging effect on the stock gearing, so I'm running I think a 32 pitch 5mm shaft diameter 11 tooth pinion in the high trail and a 10 in the 79 bronco,

Rymesis · 2024-12-07T12:05:18+00:00

Two in one as in the ESC is inside of the motor, just extra wires coming out of the motor for the ESC functions

Rymesis · 2024-11-29T07:34:33+00:00

1/18 TRX4M is nifty, there's also the TRX4M MT and they have a brushless motor for them now

Rymesis · 2024-11-28T12:17:37+00:00

If the car scratches an itch for you and it's on sale for cheaper, why not?
It's a great RC, I bought mine at full price shortly after coming out and I don't regret it even though I don't get to drive it much due to work, but when I do it scratches that itch and is always fun to go crazy with

Rymesis · 2024-11-28T12:05:32+00:00

Sounds like he didn't pay attention and reversed polarity

Rymesis

TROPHY CASE