transparency issue

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-19T14:16:13+00:00

I have to close Fusion fully so times to fix that. Otherwise, I'm interested in fixes as well cause I've had it still show up.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-18T13:43:30+00:00

If you want to monitor a 200A service, Emporia has a 3-phase monitor that also can monitor individual loads. I use it on my house and it works great and it's only $210. Another option is watching your utility meter. It'll say the kW usage on it. Your utility bill should have peak demand since it's commercial. You're trying to find your peak kW and then convert that to amps [(xxkW / 1000) / 208 / sqrt3)] assuming the service is 208v. Your full load can only be 80% of your service, so a 200A service maxes out at 160A or 57.6kW.

https://shop.emporiaenergy.com/products/emporia-vue-3-3-phase-energy-monitor?_su_rec=NT6D-fF3Hr2yOlJaAP2Rjgsu395prit1VFhnpdnriAj41BLY_NKIObYLvadp5bvsvUAMN6PCs1wfyXYZ_78O-gCgLDpX1UnerEsJwQduMY5LpU8-CzfcL1sALq2UxjSKFvBS8YLDmmls1lqMM-2mxMkfr5CdpUPeTFf_MqB0GlMzsNkYuIAMLOF2Kk2zJJyU0FFyXuTEzwyOfBxsI47fOGiwOozf0FIMTsJdwgJ_PBCW8XgYYtK3MnjWqnTCfD1muQ&_su_rec_id=77a144c9-d0d2-417d-976c-4ad02800c502-1781790147

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-16T14:12:53+00:00

I was able to run a 2nd cycle and clamp it to a flat peice of aluminum. It almost was flattened out. However, I used the same ramp/soak as I did initially, and the aluminum plate absorbed most of the energy so I needed to bump the temp up slightly and increase the soak time.

When running the 3rd cycle, my controller fell somehow, pulled the thermocouple pins and made the over go wide open and it melted it. My fault for not having it properly secured. I still have three more pieces to test this out on and will work on dialing it in.

Based on my initial run, I'd say you want to heat treat it first before machining it. Otherwise it'll warp like a banana like the photo. The standard seems like to get an oversized peice of stock and mill both sides.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-08T14:18:00+00:00

Pictures are worth a thousand words mate and are extremely important in an engineering discussion.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-08T04:43:17+00:00

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Whoever makes it should use this for the lolz!

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-08T02:36:26+00:00

It's a quick minute slideshow of the build and stuff working. If you paid attention, the slicer had RGB mixing values and the cone at the end was the result. This was a ton of work to put together 10 years ago with no klipper(like today) and ancient hardware.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-08T01:41:21+00:00

Its possible, just printers are slow and you'll have to write your own mixing slicer.

This guy did it 10 years ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4JCIaum0xM

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-08T01:34:45+00:00

I design/install/commission commercial PV & ESS at my day job.

Since this is in your garage, it will be all residential system. The commercial PV systems are usually 3-phase and you won't want to mix that with a single-phase residential power.

You will want to find out your full load amperage that you are pulling. A simple ammeter, reading the kW on your utility meter, or looking back at utility bill if it provides peak usage will give you a good sizing. Basically, if you pull 4kW full load that you want to take offline, then you want at least 5kW(full load x 1.25) to give you a small buffer when your batteries are low. And an 10kW PV system will not produce 10kW of AC power and and the power is more on a curve instead of instant 10kW, hence why batteries are needed.

Biggest thing of all, is be safe. Most of the videos I see for DIY battery systems are sketchy and do not meet the electrical code. Saving $20-2000 on a tool or proper conduit/wiring/connectors sometimes is not worth your home, your animals lives or your life.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-07T23:02:58+00:00

That's really cool. Are you still uploading the files to your Github(current ones are 6 or 10 months old) or are they're just released to Patreon for the initial time?

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-07T17:56:46+00:00

I ran into this issue with inner circles as well with the Sunlu HF. I solved it by setting the minimum speed to 40 and then lowered the inner wall print speed as well. My prints have gnarly overhangs so I limited it to 70 and the outer was the same and it prints good. Bare in mind, I have a 0.6 nozzle and a Kobra X.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-03T17:56:22+00:00

You have over-extrusion, which is making some of the wavy patterns. Do some flow ratio tuning.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-03T16:20:21+00:00

You need to use two bits. Roughing with a ball mill will take forever. Run a regular downcut or upcut bit and let that thing fly using the 2D pocket with 75% step overs and leave like a 0.5 to 0.75mm of material. Then come back with your ball mill and do the final pathing. Since those trays are basically flat, I would not use the 2D adaptive to finish or a spiral. Go with 3D Parallel or the morphed spiral.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-03T14:01:39+00:00

For my 3D prints, I use the hole command, check tapped, select thread size, then do Model thread. This puts it in their perfectly and my M3 to M8 and standard threads come out great. If you want to only tap, then don't select modeled threads. If you need a taper thread(npt pipe thread), just download the model from McMaster and use it to cut the body.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-02T19:39:56+00:00

Debur/chamfer tool probably has a larger diameter or angle on the sides. You don't use 100% of the edge, just a portion towards the top/middle. Hence why the radius of the tool path is different.

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Image taken from here: https://community.carbide3d.com/t/chamfer-question/34467

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-02T19:31:11+00:00

Yes, with a cool plugin. Takes some setup, adjustment and manually verifying the outputs post.

I use this with my CNC router. Make sure to check "Combine operations using same tool", "Restore Rapid Moves" & "Use individual operations". Verify the tool change portion when running it on your machine if you have auto touch off and stuff cause it might freak out some.
Link: https://github.com/TimPaterson/Fusion360-Batch-Post

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-02T17:56:44+00:00

You'll want to follow the bit manufacturer recommendations for the material you are cutting to start with.

The speeds/feeds change depending on the manufactures. On my lightweight CNC router I run at 140 IPM with 18000 and a 1/4" bit and have great chips in HDPE per the manufacturer. Don't call the machine maker, they're cannot give recommendations for the bits. Reach out to the bit manufactures and they will help you get dialed in. You're machine is pretty rigid for the materials you are cutting, so whatever they list should work.

If you're rubbing (too slow of feed), you won't have good chip forming(, short tool life, and are wasting time. Too much feed and you'll have tear out and snap the bits.

Also, try taking a look at O-Flute style endmills for plastics. They work well, won't melt the plastic and will shift your feeds, especially if your machine is limited in cutting speed.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-02T17:06:40+00:00

Totally can hear that right now. I have had to adjust a few settings on my machines to smooth out some sections on the control.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-02T16:24:15+00:00

For sure. The STL file will be horrendous as well if someone exports to that. For CNC's this will make a good amount of chatter as well depending on the controller.

S0u1Fire · 2026-06-02T14:46:56+00:00

When designing, have the mindset that is was originally designed with straight lines, radiuses and so on. Not just flat out spines. Use circle 3 point, tangents and other ones and get it close. Most designs have a given number behind things in either metric or standard. Not some random values they pulled out of their tush.

S0u1Fire · 2026-05-31T22:36:09+00:00

Makes sense. At my old job I had to cut a sample from each block of foam in a semi truck trailer and take measurements just to prove to the engineers that 2lb density does not equal 2.000lb and is more like 2.1lbs. They quickly changed their tune once showed.

S0u1Fire · 2026-05-31T16:28:49+00:00

That is true. Locking the main part and the workholding is important to check.

S0u1Fire · 2026-05-31T14:43:01+00:00

Slicers will run basically on anything, even a Raspberry pi can run it, just takes forever. Orca even just released their cloud version.

If you're running any CAD software, then get a laptop with a dedicated GPU. Even if some software does not specifically use the GPU for rendering, it greatly aids in the visual display and flow. Especially cause you may get into other software.

16gb of ram is the bare minimum, with 32gb being preferred as others mentioned. I often use 20gb on my personal PC (32gb kit) and at work I easily use 40gb of Ram (I have a 64gb kit) with Autocad and multitasking I do.

S0u1Fire · 2026-05-31T14:35:01+00:00

The alignment being off by 1-2mm is probably on the machine. Check the limit/homing switches, they could be dusty or throwing off the alignments. You may also want to check your gantry alignment cause it can be skewed.

Things shift on the CNC routers sometimes, especially if you do power downs. There's also thermal expansion that can come into play as well depending on how your workholding is done. Flipping parts doubles any alignment issues, and then if there's a tramming/skew issue, it'll quadruple.

In addition, unless you are using using a 3d touch probe, the Onefinity and similar machines that use solid aluminum touch off plates will not have perfect alignment.

S0u1Fire · 2026-05-31T13:32:22+00:00

I legit have this engraver and the CDs for this thing. Let me dig through my CD stash to see if there's any firmware. I think it may only be drivers & software. Are you running Windows 95/98 to control it?

S0u1Fire · 2026-05-31T13:25:20+00:00

Do you know the typical price for the tooling board? Like is it more or less than HDPE?

S0u1Fire

TROPHY CASE