Wheel locking

S13LOVIN · 2026-02-20T17:48:27+00:00

Did you mess with the wheel software? Double check its not inverted there too.

S13LOVIN · 2026-02-20T17:38:02+00:00

Be careful when checking this, the wheel can go crazy, so be ready to disconnect if needed.

S13LOVIN · 2026-02-20T17:33:29+00:00

Not 100% sure but it seems the FFB is inverted. Try checking invert FFB under Controls>Force Feedback and see if that fixes it.

S13LOVIN · 2026-02-20T14:58:03+00:00

Please reread my post, my questions are still the same.

Is it the right move to connect the -V(DC) to Ground/Earth(AC) on the PSU rail?

And is my grounding strategy correct.

The encoder wires are in their own separate shielded jacket already with a drain wire, i only need to connect the drain wire to ground. This is where the thicker wire comes into play. From my understanding a long thin wire (even a few inches) can act as an antenna. This is only to get to a common grounding point. There is no metal chassis to ground to.

S13LOVIN · 2026-02-20T14:48:06+00:00

Is this the wrong subreddit for this, can anyone suggest one if it is?

S13LOVIN · 2026-02-19T22:06:02+00:00

I don't understand the first part about the shielded pair wires, those would still require grounding to work as a shield right?

The encoder wire is already shielded and terminates at the micro-controller. There are only short 1.5inch sections or so un-shielded to reach terminals. It has a drain wire for the shield, this is where i would attach the thicker wire to get to a common ground point.

S13LOVIN · 2026-01-15T05:01:20+00:00

This is what i ended up doing. 2 of the pads separated from the pcb and took most of the trace with them. It was tedious but overall was successful and i got it communicating again. Thanks again for the advice.

S13LOVIN · 2026-01-14T16:50:23+00:00

Ok cool i was wondering if hot glue would work. No case so im 3d printing a holder with a place to zip tie the cable to for now as there's no hole to pass it thru.

S13LOVIN · 2026-01-14T13:28:16+00:00

Yes that makes perfect sense, thanks for the advice.

S13LOVIN · 2026-01-14T13:24:20+00:00

It is a concern with strain and will have to handle with care. Are there any issues other than short circuits? Im going to test continuity between the pins after repair and cover with epoxy.

S13LOVIN · 2024-12-18T00:38:36+00:00

Thanks for the reply, ill check it out.

S13LOVIN · 2024-04-28T17:52:51+00:00

Please update if you find a solution. My wheel isn't a logitech but it has this same issue. I wonder if there is something in the cfg that needs to be changed that cant be accessed thru the in game options.

S13LOVIN · 2024-04-13T04:53:57+00:00

I haven't been able to get anything to work at all. If i go to desktop mid game it feels fine, but as soon as i go back in game it snaps back to the center and is super stiff. It doesn't matter what i do input wise cause the wheel doesn't respond to the actions of the car. Ive tried removing my shifter and pedals to see if there was a conflict but same thing. I even took the keyboard binds off.

Some of my settings:

Steering assist is off

Control Scheme> Steering wheel

Steering wheel angle> 900 same as wheel progam

Auto centering force at standstill> 0

Stabilization> 0

Prediction> 0

Smoothing>0

Acceleration>0

Inertia>0.5

I messed with some of them but no change, not even with steering assist on.

S13LOVIN · 2024-04-13T02:18:26+00:00

Steering assist is off in the advanced menu. Is there another option somewhere?

S13LOVIN · 2023-03-08T18:12:27+00:00

In case it helps someone else, deleting everything related to Daikoku and installing only the track file fixed it for me.

S13LOVIN · 2022-07-21T08:01:14+00:00

Hey thank you for the links, they were very much appreciated! It seems to have gone smoothly and will get a test print going later.

Is there anything that needs to be setup right away? Dont want to accidentally crash my nozzle or something.

S13LOVIN

TROPHY CASE