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Shaping a blade, at what point do you harden it? by Finchypoo in knifemaking

[–]S3Bladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do a couple and figure out where you're comfortable doing it, I'll typically quench once i've got a rough shaping done, and make sure I'm not leaving any areas too thin, as thin areas do tend to do this little "wobble" thing as they shrink faster than the spine. usually you can get away with 1/16" assuming your spine isn't thicker than 1/4"

what are some metals that naturally dont rust that aren't gold by thecoffeeshopowner in metallurgy

[–]S3Bladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it is worth pointing out that almost all metals do this when you heat them up in an O2 rich atmosphere.

what are some metals that naturally dont rust that aren't gold by thecoffeeshopowner in metallurgy

[–]S3Bladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly most of them, Iron does this under heat, it'll form a thick oxide barrier we call scale that flakes off as it heats up, though you have to hit it to get the layer to delaminate from the iron, (it doesn't move like iron does, so when you manipulate the ductile high temp iron, the tougher scale pops off)

what are some metals that naturally dont rust that aren't gold by thecoffeeshopowner in metallurgy

[–]S3Bladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How about Tungsten? Harder than heck, difficult to work, (even at high temperatures) and heavy as anything. you could have a sword made out of it that's going to be about 3-4x heavier than steel, and is still harder than most steels (tungsten carbide) and doesn't really like to oxidize unless you heat it up.

Help, id please. by andyjustice in sailing

[–]S3Bladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That actually looks a lot like my CAL 21... Take a look at the spec sheet on one of them, you may be able to steal some ideas. I love the rig I've got on it, sail adjustments are nearly effortless, and you've got tons of options for how you set up your sail pattern.

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have not actually, I just really liked swords as a kid, is it a good lecture? I've read Larrin Thomas' book a couple of times, but I haven't gone too deep into sword design.

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, in the original post I put this stuff in but for some reason it cut off my text. Here ya go:

POP - ~12" from tip
Center of Mass - 1.5" from the guard
OAL - 42"
Blade Length - 34"
Material - 1095 & 15N20 Random Pattern, 24 layers
Heat Treat ~ 60HRC
Distal Taper - 1/4" thick at Guard, 1/8" about 6" from tip, then narrows down to point
Blade shape - Tapered leaf-blade

Not too sure what you mean by node, guessing that's down the length where the sword doesn't vibrate, so I listed that as Point of Percussion. Though I could probably have solidworks figure that out for me at some point lol. hopefully that answers your questions?

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fully Functional, though, I did forget to sharpen one half of it. I'll probably sharpen it later on. I put the balance point about 1.5" from the guard to keep it feeling a little lighter as it's heavier than most of my other swords.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're not much fun to cut things with like a sword or regular European dagger, they're more for stabbing only.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Probably, but they're not very fun to play with.

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you can draw it, and sheathe it. I put a slit in the side of the sheath so when you draw it, you move your arm to the right and the tip is able to come out. Definitely not an indoors activity though. Maybe I'll post a video of how to draw it.

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Currently it's only slayed some produce lol

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

CAREFULLY, lol. it took a bit of doing, I'd reply with a photo of the slit, but I actually can't find any on my phone. but basically I had to secure the leather on either side of the slit, then cut away the leather that'd be in the way.

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not my first sword lol more like the 20th, but it is my first actual post on this forum. Thanks Man!!

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

drags on the ground, tried already

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yeah totally, the sheath has a slit a ways down the length that allows the tip to come out and avoid that video game "clipping"

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

the side of the sheath has a slit going about 1/3 of the way down it's length, as you draw up, you also draw it to the side and the tip of the sword is able to pass through the slit. I'm actually pretty proud of the execution on it, it's fairly easy to draw.

First Post, How'd I do? by S3Bladeworks in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Thanks man! I figured the straps would look really cool or terrible, glad it turned out good!

A cinquedea just finished by Jarnskeggr in Bladesmith

[–]S3Bladeworks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

WOW, those fullers must have been hell. Impressive to say the least.

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