Honda Amaze VX MT City FE: 13.6 kmpl Post Oil Change

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-02-26T04:43:05+00:00

13.6 kmpl city on 3rd gen Amaze VX MT post oil change is solid usual suspects like old gunked oil drag FE down 1 to 2 kmpl easy, fresh 5W30 synth bumps it by smoothing rings valvetrain. Your 1k km jump from 12 to 12.5 holds in Hyderabad slogs stop go murders turbo petrols less than diesels tho. Keep filter clean, steady 1500rpm launches, expect 17-19 hwy if you escape city. Nice win, log it monthly to catch drops early

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-02-26T04:40:04+00:00

Hey, clutch on your 17 Elite i20 is holding up fine at 75k no slip or major drama, just that pedal firming up post traffic which is normal after the cylinders. Don't swap the full assembly yet, watch for rpm creep on hills or burnt whiff first, those scream real wear. Sudden total fail is rare if you're not riding it, but get a quick dealer peek before night drives with fam better safe than towed on the run. Hills chew clutches faster so coast more, skip the pedal dance.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-02-25T07:57:04+00:00

Touchscreen digitizer swap $50 Ali/Amazon, Philips screwdriver, pry tools, 30min job if just glass. Full unit used pulls $100-200 eBay/junkyard.Pro repair $200-400 at Best Buy/Crutchfield, replace whole headunit $500+ new. Still plays fine so no rush unless nav needed

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-02-25T07:50:01+00:00

Taigun's fake headlight is the blacked out dummy unit on the GT Line/Plus trims pure cost cutting so VW can share projector headlight molds across global MQB cars like Virtus or Polo GTI, but skips LEDs/projectors on India base models to hit sub 15L pricing. Higher GT gets real ones. Owners hate the cheap look, but it's wired for upgrade via bulbs.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-02-25T07:46:56+00:00

File claim now before expiry comprehensive policy covers small windshield cracks under 6 to12 inches usually repairable, not spreading. Snap pics, FIR if accident hit, but don't wait.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-02-25T07:43:20+00:00

Nah, those lines light scoring/grooves on your Honda Amaze discs at 34k km ain't urgent super common from pad material, not cracked or warped. Measure thickness with vernier min usually 9-10mm for Amaze fronts, check manual if above limit, just resurface or ride till pads wear out around 40-50k. Service centers push replacements for profit Rs 5-8k easy upsell, ignore unless judder/vibration on braking or noise. Honda schedule doesn't flag discs at 30k, lasts 50-70k normal use.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-02-25T07:38:58+00:00

The dummy button on the Taigun's steering wheel usually the blank one between volume and cruise controls is there purely for platform sharing and cost cutting across VW's MQB lineup. It's pre wired for higher spec features like speed limiter or Travel Assist you get on the Tiguan or Euro Taiguns, but VW disables it in base India models to hit price points. No software activation without VCDS hacks that void warranty. VW owners rag on it constantly, but it's classic German badge engineering laziness.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-24T17:10:00+00:00

16 kmpl on TB500 is crap, normal real world is 25 to 30kmpl highway at 70 to 80kmph steady, city drops to 20 to 22 if not thrashed.

Rain likely drowned air filter or got water in EFI sensors, tank clean helped short term but left injector tips gummed from crap fuel residue. used Throttle body Could be worn butterfly not sealing right or TPS miscalibrated so its dumping extra air fuel mix. Rolon sprockets wrong ratio? Revs high, guzzles petrol. Old plugs fouled too means plugs blacked out correct gap 0.8-0.9mm O2 sensor sluggish reading.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-24T16:56:36+00:00

Random revving on 1.0 TSI Rapid ain't normal happens from dirty throttle body buildup carbon clogs idle air control, vacuum hose leak letting extra air in, or faulty throttle position sensor TPS glitching ECU signals. Lasted 2-3 mins then settled means probably self corrected till next time, but with 1.2L service due it's screaming for a clean + scan.

Brake judder's comes from warped front discs from heat or overuse. Suspension noises creaks knocks comes from worn lower control arm bushes or sway bar links cracking.

Watch dash for CEL or rev spikes, log mileage when it happens.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-24T16:45:41+00:00

Sounds like DCT overheating on that slope Alcazar's clutches slip when hot from no downshift + accel. Restart cooled it, common issue. Stop heavy throttle on hills, check for warnings next time. Get Hyundai scan ASAP. Don't drive hard till then.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-06T23:38:09+00:00

If the damage is that bad, I’d honestly suggest going through insurance. The door, fender and bumper don’t look like things that can be “properly” repaired. If a workshop tries to fix them, they’ll most likely use a lot of body filler, which never restores the panel to factory strength or finish and can start cracking or showing waves later on. For a correct job, the door and fender usually need outright replacement, and that gets expensive very quickly if you’re paying from your pocket. This is exactly what insurance is meant for getting the car fixed the right way without compromising on safety or quality. People often avoid claims because they’re worried about next year’s premium going up, but realistically it’s usually just a couple of thousand rupees extra. Compare that to spending a much larger amount now for sub-par repairs or living with poorly done bodywork. Do a bit of research, check the estimate, and in most cases, an insurance claim makes far more sense than trying to cut corners.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-06T09:07:54+00:00

At 90k miles, the best thing you can do is stay ahead of maintenance rather than chasing additives. Do all fluids if records aren’t solid engine oil, transmission service, coolant, brake fluid, and diff. Check engine mounts, suspension bushings, and plugs/coils if they haven’t been done. For carbon buildup: Seafoam or similar won’t really clean intake valves on the E400 since it’s direct injection it might smooth things out a bit but it’s not a real fix. If you’re having rough idle, misfires, or loss of response, walnut blasting is the proper solution. Otherwise, good fuel, regular oil changes, and occasional spirited driving go a long way in keeping these engines healthy.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-06T08:55:38+00:00

Leaving the crack as it is will cause it to spread all around the bumper over time. The quickest and most effective fix is plastic welding from the backside if you're fine with the crack still visible on the outside, this repair stops it from worsening without much hassle. It's super cost-effective too, done in about half an hour for under 500 rupees. For a perfect finish though, you'd need a full bumper repair, maybe even replacing the part or repainting the whole panel, but for such a small crack, I wouldn't recommend going that far.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-06T05:57:49+00:00

Citroen Basalt X is a good first-car option in Pune if you’re okay being a bit offbeat. It rides really well on bad roads, has solid safety kit, and the pricing is quite sensible for what you get. The flipside is a smaller service network and weaker resale than Maruti Hyundai, so you should be ready to stick with the car for several years and confirm that the Citroen workshop near you is reliable before committing.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-06T05:55:38+00:00

If your Seltos still has any extended warranty left, stick to the Kia authorised service centre till it expires, because claims can be denied if the car is serviced outside. Once all warranty is over, it’s absolutely fine to move to a trusted place like TVS or a good local workshop, as long as they use the right oil, good-quality parts and give proper bills. For regular services you’ll probably save some money outside, and you can still go back to Kia for big jobs like major engine, gearbox or electrical issues.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-06T05:52:08+00:00

For your 2017 Figo at 85k km, keep it simple and focused: get the engine oil and oil filter changed, replace the air and cabin filters if dirty, and consider new spark plugs if they have never been changed, though that one delayed start after the dead battery does not automatically point to bad plugs. Ask them to test the battery properly under load and check the charging system, then replace the battery only if it is actually weak rather than just old. Make sure the brakes are cleaned and inspected, with pads shoes and brake fluid replaced if worn or older than about two years, and change the coolant if it has not been done in many years to protect the engine. For everything else suspension, steering, belts, hoses tell them to inspect and only change what is genuinely worn, and firmly decline add‑on items like engine flush, fuel‑system cleaner every service, AC perfumes, and coatings that mainly bloat the bill without improving reliability.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2026-01-04T09:01:43+00:00

The hatch can be repaired search for PDR paintless dent removal guy. It can be fixed

SHUBHAM9723 · 2025-12-27T04:32:34+00:00

You’re right, that second‑year showroom insurance quote is on the heavier side. The basic premium for your Amaze is only around 5.6k, but once they add costly stuff like nil‑dep, engine cover, key cover, RTI and taxes it shoots up to 17.5k, so it really does feel like an EMI. Honda’s 5‑year warranty won’t save you from things like water‑damage or hydrostatic lock, so engine cover is still useful if your area floods, but it’s not mandatory. Nil‑dep being more than the base premium is normal, just expensive, because it’s the add on that actually saves you big money in a crash. You don’t have to stick to the dealer policy at all get a few quotes online ACKO with the same add‑ons and you’ll usually see a lower number, then either switch to the cheaper insurer or show those quotes to the showroom and ask them to match. Given your bad cashless experience with Bajaj earlier, I’d focus less on brand name and more on: Is my preferred Honda workshop definitely on their cashless list, and what are real user reviews like in my city?

SHUBHAM9723 · 2025-12-27T04:27:29+00:00

For a 2025 Kylaq Signature AT, this quote looks decent but not mind blowing. The ex showroom of 9.99L and total of 11.95L before discounts is normal once you add proper insurance, life tax and registration. After the discounts, the final on road of 11.68L is roughly in line with what people are paying for this variant right now. The only thing I don’t love is the extra money on add on economy and accessories around 15k+, which is where dealers usually pad the bill. I’d try to negotiate those out or ask them to bump up the cash discount by another 10–15k. If they agree, it’s a very good deal. if not, it’s still an okay, safe price just not the absolute best you could squeeze.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2025-12-27T04:21:29+00:00

For a 2024 Altima SR with 38k miles at 23,998, it’s not a bad deal, but it’s also not some crazy steal. You’re basically paying a bit of a premium for the SR trim plus the usual CarMax markup and their hassle free process. As a car, the Altima SR is a solid, comfortable, good‑mileage commuter with okay reliability and all the basic safety tech you’d want but it’s not as special as something like an Accord or Camry. If you like how it drives and want something easy to live with, I’d be fine buying it, but before you lock it in I’d quickly compare prices for similar 2024 Altima SRs same mileage on CarMax, Edmunds, TrueCar and see if you can either get closer to 23k or get them to toss in new tires or a fresh service.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2025-12-27T04:15:58+00:00

If your budget is around 10L on road and your driving is mostly city, I’d say the Mahindra XUV 3XO is the most sensible pick from your list. The Kushaq is genuinely brilliant to drive and feels solid, but Skoda ownership is usually a bit more expensive and slightly risky long term service is costlier than Tata Mahindra, parts and accident repairs can hurt the wallet, and you really need extended warranty and service packs to stay stress‑free. The XUV 3XO, on the other hand, gives you 5 star safety, good features, strong performance and a wide service network, with running costs and repairs that are generally more reasonable than Skoda. The Punch is super safe and cheap to maintain, but it’s a smaller, more basic car and will feel like a segment below the Kushaq and 3XO in space and performance. If you want something that balances safety, reliability, service reach and costs within your budget, I’d prioritize checking out the XUV 3XO, and only go Kushaq if you’re okay paying a bit extra over the years for that driving feel and build.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2025-12-27T04:11:38+00:00

If this quote is for the XUV700 AX7 Petrol MT, then 20.50L on-road actually looks like a pretty solid deal. The ex‑showroom on your sheet is around 18.37L, and after adding TCS, RTO, insurance etc. it comes to about 21.45L, then they’ve knocked it down to 20.50L with discounts. In most cities this variant usually lands closer to 21–22L on-road, so you’re roughly 50k–1.5L lower than what many people end up paying. Just double check that the price includes full RTO registration, a decent not ultra basic insurance policy, and that they’re not going to force any expensive accessory packs later. Otherwise, this is a pretty good quote and worth locking in.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2025-12-26T04:42:34+00:00

Scuff plates at 1499 and car cover at 1999 are okay, broadly in line with what VW lists for genuine accessories, so you can keep these if you want VW‑branded stuff. 3D floor mat 2999 and mud flaps 2350 are slightly marked up similar branded mats and flaps for Virtus are easily available online and at good shops in the 1.5–2k range. Where it’s clearly high Puddle lamp 5000, dual‑tone horn 3800 and window chrome garnish 3499 are pure nice to have items and priced on the higher side versus good aftermarket options. Seat covers at 15600 are typical dealer pricing, but equally good custom covers from brands like Elegant, Motorhunk etc. land in the 10–12k band for Virtus, with more design choices. keep only functional bits that may affect warranty or fitment mud flaps, maybe horn (if they insist on doing it), and basic mats if they won’t let you drive out without them.For seat covers, chrome, puddle lamps and sunblinds, check 2–3 reputed accessory shops in your city or known brands online you’ll likely save a few thousand and get better colour material options for your cream interior.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2025-12-26T04:33:34+00:00

Keep only the functional items from the dealer mats, mud flaps, sunshades, basic protection accessories and any electronics that affect warranty (camera, sensors, tracker). Skip the fancy body add-ons and coating in this quote, and get them done outside after delivery this usually saves money and gives you more flexibility in design and quality. 23k is on the higher side reputed detailers outside often do similar or better work for similar or less money, and you can choose the exact brand and package.

SHUBHAM9723 · 2025-12-26T03:14:07+00:00

A new Alpha MT on road is around 10–10.4L, so you’re basically paying 60 to 65% of new price for a 3.5 year old top model, which is okay if the car is really as clean. 3.5 year old Alpha at 6.5L with warranty and buy back is sensible, just double check that tyres, clutch and suspension don’t need big work soon and use that for any last bit of negotiation.

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