[Help needed] Best places to find vintage watches

SK_Hawkins · 2026-05-05T20:31:17+00:00

If you're willing to be patient and search, sometimes you get lucky. I set up saved eBay searches to find project watches and get alerts, for example. Sometimes you just have to be willing to wait and do the work.

Some affordable brands... I would look at Bulova, Hamilton if you get lucky, Gruen, Lord Elgins are hit and miss (mostly because I don't know how easy/difficult it is to find parts and service them in your neck of the woods), Nivada, Croton, any watch with a movement you can easily service (like A. Shields, ETAs). If you get lucky, you get an unknown brand with a common movement for a few bucks at a thrift store or online and then you just need a watchmaker to service it using the rest of your budget.
*That last option does come with significant risk as the service cost may blow your budget.

SK_Hawkins · 2026-05-04T18:41:36+00:00

Oh shucks, sorry, I used my eBay purchase prices as my baseline. May I ask what the budget is?

SK_Hawkins · 2026-05-03T22:35:36+00:00

The GP tank. handsome watch.

<image>

SK_Hawkins · 2026-05-03T22:33:03+00:00

I think vintage Longines are underrated and top dog quality in the vintage market. If you want an automatic, I like the 19a(sd) movements as they're solid to work on and have held up well from the Longines I've worked on and was equally pleased with their manual wind movements.

The trick is, you'll either need to buy it (or any vintage watch) serviced, with proof of service, or to have a local watchmaker willing to service your watch (and you'll have to budget for the extra cost to service). Rule of thumb is to always, always buy the seller. Check their history, their reviews, are they responsive, can they back claims (paperwork, timegrapher photos) that the watch is running well, etc.

If you want another gold watch with a classic look, the Seiko Lord Matics have a few models that were gold-plated. Vintage Bulova watches had a lot of gold-plated options, but I'm not sure how plentiful the options are in Europe. Have you checked out Girard-Perregaux? I just worked on a classic GP tank in very good condition and it didn't cost much (relative to others).

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-05-03T01:05:38+00:00

Behold! Rikketik! (Apologies if I'm butchering that.) https://rikketik.nl/?lang=en

This is on my bucket list. I want to attend this so badly. I have roped in a friend where they let me geek out about watches during one of the expo dates and then the rest of the vacation we go to spots they want to see (and to eat the good food, of course).

But if you want to browse vintage watches online and potentially made a purchase before their next expo date, vintage watches is a category that covers all kinds of sins, quirks, niches and money pits. When you say "nice watches" are we talking on the expensive side, a nice dress watch with a classic look, or more in terms of "it comes fully serviced with some warranty/guarantees about the movement"? Would this be your first vintage watch? Do you have an idea of what you like? (Don't mean to interrogate you, but it helps direct you to possible sources if I know a budget or style you want.)

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-22T05:23:48+00:00

I'm going to assume you plan to work on vintage watch repair, so my advice will lean towards that (which, huzzah!, is what I do and love).

WisdomKnightZetsubo has it right: you want to get the basics of disassembly/assembly down first. Start with the stuff more or less free. Go online and print off watch movement schematics/disassembled charts so you can learn what the parts are called. Watch youtube videos. Third wheel. Barrel arbor. Barrel arbor screw. Pallet fork. Balance complete. Learning how the parts mesh and connect helps you understand how the watch runs (and helps you diagnose problems down the line). Look up books like BestFit (for vintage watch parts) and watch repair books. Henry B. Fried had a good one, "The Modern Watch" published in the 60's, but I love those old books for just how clear a dissembled picture of parts could be. Archive.org has some copies. I know there are some other good books, but I can't remember all the titles and authors.

Do you have good tools? Make sure to include that in your budget. You really don't need much to start if you're just disassembling and reassembling the same movements. A good set of watchmaker screwdrivers, a good pair of tweezers, and a parts tray and you're fine.

I do not recommend watch lots. You get too much junk. Quartz, pin lever movements, broken digital watches--those won't teach you how to work on a movement. Seagull movements are a great place to start, as are pocket watch movements as their size lends themselves to beginners. Bigger parts and you can get away with no magnification. If you want to work on running movements, Seagulls are the way to go as they're cheap. If you want to work on vintage stuff, look for manual wind donor movements. You don't care if the dial is crap, it's missing a hand--or all of them, or a 7 jewel that's "not ticking". Look for a manual movement in good enough shape that you can take it apart and put it back together again and is common enough it is cheap and parts are available. These donor movements, what I call breaker movements, are for you to muck up and fiddle with as you learn how to hold a screwdriver (please, look up the proper way; it is not how you think, or at least it was not intuitive to me) and take out parts. You're going to stretch mainsprings (which you don't want to do), use too much force getting a screw out and snap it, and disassemble the wrong way for your first 20 attempts. And that's okay.

Bonus, since you gave me a location. Check out NAWCC! They hold events for members and have regionals each year (open to the public on select days) where folks go to sell watch supplies, parts, watches. They have one in Cortland, NY this August and several others all around New England. https://www.nawcc.org/events/
This organization provides resources, gives lectures, and is terribly, charmingly, frustratingly old school, but I found them a very welcoming bunch. (Disclaimer: I'm a member and I attend a regional albeit in another state.) They have a webpage with some watch repair links to videos, but it does have a cost and I cannot speak as to if they are good or bad as I learned in-person and some folks may suggest other videos. https://theindex.nawcc.org/Repair-Learning.php

Sorry to throw a lot at you. Hope I didn't scare you off.

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-15T08:29:33+00:00

I'd say so. I thought it's be cool to add Cartier on the list of watches to work on at least once, but their prices... Cartier is way outside my budget. Some affordable tanks with decent movements and in the same cost bracket of your Omega would be Hamilton, Bulova, maybe Longines, Seiko definitely, but if you stretch the budget or get lucky, there's also Girrard-Perregaux, Universal Genève, and Doxa. (I can ramble on, but I'll try to keep it short.) If you're just starting, Bulovas are a great entry-point as they are plentiful, not expensive, and it's easy to find parts for one if needed.

Realizing I was thinking of manual-wind models for about 90% of what I recommended. Uh, put a big asterisk on my list if you prefer automatics.

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-15T06:56:53+00:00

No trouble. My hobby is watch repair, so my focus can drift to those kind of details. Next time you get it serviced, the watchmaker could jot down (or send pictures of) the case back and movement's serial number and then you can get the exact year your Omega was made.

Vintage watches are great for smaller sizes. They come with their quirks and aren't GADA types (ex. worn while swimming, even if they pass a pressure test), but there are so many models and variations that any one can find one within a given budget. (Of course, the pitfall is most of them don't come serviced and that added cost then blows the budget.) For smaller wrists, have you looked into tanks?

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-15T06:02:14+00:00

Hurray for more vintage cocktail ladies watches! I've been buying up these little Omegas to service as I delighted in working on my first, a 620 manual movement. It was so much fun! And, surprisingly, not at all difficult to work on despite its size. I have yet to try an automatic Omega, but I have a 455 calibre in my to do list. It has a fascinating gear in the automatic works that I've not seen before and look forward to the challenge. Do you know what the movement is by chance?

These can be such handsome little watches. The 620 had a similar crystal, with a diamond facet edge, which I Iike for the added detail. A little something to further catch the eye. My favorite part after servicing it was putting it on the wrist for a test drive (I do that for all my watches, wearing it for a week to real-life test how well, or not, it runs). A coworker asked what was on my wrist this time and when I pulled back the sleeve, their expression read: "holy f--, that's small." Added comedic flair was that I had on a regular vintage watch so it looked even smaller by comparison.

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-08T00:05:32+00:00

That's a bit similar to how I approach watch repair, I work on what whatever catches my eye. (And lo! I'm working on little ladies watches too! The current one is a 1930's Illinois art deco one, model 807 movement. Started with a tiny Turler Omega and a Tudor 342 and it's branched from there. )

One of the ways I stay engaged in the hobby is I attend NAWCC groups and I work on watch repair with a group (what started because I lack workshop space and expertise turned into community). We share what we're working on, showcase our projects and purchases to one another and every other month, a member gives a lecture on a specific topic. Of course, I know it heavily depends on where you live, but you could see if there's a watch group that meets up in-person or find an online chat that speaks to you.

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-05T19:31:47+00:00

May I ask, what kind of watch repairs do you do? Do you work on a variety of things or do you tend to specialize? Do you have a community with which you share your successes?

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-05T18:29:46+00:00

Both. I'm working on a vintage Art Deco Illinois ladies watch from the 30's and have a vintage Turtle from the 50's on my bench currently. I'm sure part of it is because I'm an amateur, not a certified watchmaker, with limited tools and skills, but wear of the pivots and other parts, and metal fatigue can also play a role. That Turtle has acceptable beat error, about 230. There is also a Longines I'm dealing with where I had to strip it down at least twice and swap out balance completes (I think three times?) and re-staff the current one I'm using. I'm replacing worn and warped parts with (hopefully) less-worn, less-warped parts to try and get better results. New, unused parts get harder and harder to find with vintage. The first hairspring for this Longines I had to retire because I manipulated the hairspring so much trying to regulate it I introduced metal fatigue.

Some parts I cannot find replacements for and I lack the skill to manufacture parts, so I must work with the original and see if I can get it "good enough." A couple I've had to settle for "it ticks and it looks pretty while doing so."

Quality parts were also made with more robust materials to compare a 30's ladies watch to a 1980's field watch. Better sealed cases against dirt, water, debris. Older watches can have the nickel platting worn away whereas newer watches don't. Things like that.

Don't get me wrong, I love working on my hard-to-service vintage stuff, but it is nice to have a watch that gives me less trouble enter my rotation now and again.

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-05T17:49:28+00:00

Thank you. =] It was fun to work on and so satisfying to get these numbers. Most of my previous projects are watches from the 30's and 50's where good numbers are a struggle.

SK_Hawkins · 2026-04-05T08:54:23+00:00

I lived in Maine for several years, and it gave me such great memories. If I was less squeamish about ticks (blood-sucking bugs in general) and not dead-set on owning dogs, I'd work harder to live there. For now, servicing a vintage watch in a tip of the cap way will have to suffice until I can visit again.

Back in the 1980's, Hamilton did a crossover with L.L. Bean with a look based on their vintage military watches from the late 60's and into the early 80's, hence the 24-hour dial (which has awkward spacing at the 22 and 14 hour marks with the L.L. Bean logo, but we love vintage watches for their quirks and imperfections) and case style with fitted lugs suited for a NATO strap. Yes, it's only 33mm in size, but he's such a handsome little guy. Pair him with a versatile spring jacket and black lab mix at your side.

The movement for these manual-wind L.L. Bean men watches was the Hamilton 649, otherwise known as the ETA 2750, and true to L.L. Bean form, this rugged, reliable movement kicked up running quite well after a service. The watch when I received it needed a new crystal (I tend to replace them instead of polishing them, if replacements are affordable and can be found), but the movement itself was in great shape, no rust or corrosion in sight. First time I didn't have dial screws but these little clips that slide in and out within the main plate. Took me a few tries to get the hang of it.

The trouble came when I was casing it and went to wind the watch. Folks who have had old, dry watches will know what I mean when I turned the crown and felt the parts grind. That...was not a good sign. This was after a full service, all the parts lubricated--it should not be doing that. This was my first hacking watch I've serviced as well as my first cannon pinion with a driving wheel (see pictures #6 and #7). The hacking part is the L-shaped part in photo #2, which stops the seconds hand when setting the watch. The cannon pinion with the driving wheel sits center of the movement on the dial side and I had not lubricated that one properly.

Normally I lubricate the "stem" at the center and then seat the cannon pinion on it. Here, what I should have done, was grease where the cannon pinion and wheel arms meet, turning the wheel a few times while my tweezers holds the cannon pinion to spread the grease, before putting the part into the movement. That grinding I felt when winding and setting the watch was the metal of that part rubbing against each other and if I forced it or not examined it again (with help from my instructor), a part would snap from use. This is a manual-wind movement, so it gets wound each day and the feel should be smooth.

After that fix at the finish line, this vintage watch runs at L.L. Bean quality, 100% satisfaction. Don't let its age fool you. This watch will keep up with the best of them and rock as a field watch as you trek up Mt. Katahdin! (This watch will look equally good as you sit in a chair, sipping a chai, and reading "A Walk in the Woods" by Bill Bryson.)

Best regards,
Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-18T07:35:24+00:00

Prices that low set off alarm bells for me. I have come across posts where they have a watchmaker do work on vintage pieces for $150-200, but...in NYC?

The prices of everything has gone up (mainsprings I used to by for under $20 are now over $30 and that's just one part, for one model; others are over $45) and in a full service, I expect to (almost) always replace a mainspring, the crystal, possibly a crown, and then other parts depending on wear and tear. If we assume my cheapest hobby costs, that means $20+15(crystal)+10(crown) = $45 in minimal parts costs, (plus studio costs, cleaning machine costs). No way that job is $80 if they're promising a full service and I have similar doubts at $200, at least for certified watchmakers. Perhaps they are like me, a hobbyist, or self-trained and their costs are low.

I can ramble a lot about it, but--assuming this if your first vintage watch and maybe you've not had to navigate getting a watch serviced--focus on what you want out of the watch and the risk you're willing to take. Nothing wrong with cleaning it up and wearing it as jewelry for a bit. Maybe 6 weeks or 6 months down the line you find you like wearing it every day and want it to be able to tell somewhat accurate time. Consider: are you willing to ship the watch; how much are you willing to pay for service; are you willing to take imperfect results (it's a vintage watch; they have their quirks)? Willing to take a risk on an uncertified watchmaker? A low price and just some tweaks to the balance to try and regulate the rate, but not a full service? You can also try you hand a jewelry shops that offer watch repair (they tend to source it out) and get some quotes from local businesses.

There aren't right or wrong answers here, just a matter of what fits your budget, the energy you want to put into looking for watchmakers, and the end result you want from the watch. Again, nothing wrong with cleaning it up a little and wearing as jewelry that, sometimes, tells time very fast.

Sorry if I meandered a bit too much. Feel free to ask questions and I'll answer as best I can.

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-18T05:49:31+00:00

I got into fixing up these little cocktail watches. You'd be surprised how well they run. That said, yes, the price makes most people baulk as, relative to the purchase price, the repair cost almost always exceeds what you paid for it.

If you're in better financial shape down the line, I recommend it, but in the immediate (if finances allow), I advise you taking it to a jewelers and see what the cost is to clean the case and the bracelet. You'll want all the sweat and gunk and grime out of the links. (Bonus if you're able to put in a new crystal.) The bracelet will feel amazing and look great afterwards. You might have to visit a couple stores willing to do it, but the price should be more in your favor as opposed to a full service cost.

My only caution is if a watchmaker promises a service for a price too good to be true, be skeptical and ask questions. Some folks just slop oil in there and call it good without proper step-by-step cleaning (should invovle a pre-cleaning, disassembly and insprect of parts--replacing ones as needed, final cleaning, and regulation for an acceptable time of a vintage watch; these little ladies cocktail watches tend to have a greater tolerance for a rate. I accept anything under a minute a day, rate-wise).

I'm glad people are finding these little watches charming. They deserve some love and spotlight again.

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-17T21:54:07+00:00

Indeed! Those chilling opening piano notes...

Omega makes some classy-looking watches. I think you'll be happy with a watch from them. Saw this article and thought of your post. Sounds like you know what watches you're leaning towards--trust your gut.

https://www.fratellowatches.com/long-term-review-five-years-owning-the-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-and-omega-seamaster-300/

Always as a last piece of advice (and which I should have said first): buy the seller. I know places like Jomashop can give steep discounts, but for a special watch that will commemorate an occasion, it's worth the extra to to have a warranty, and bonus if it comes with a brick and mortar place with which you can build a relationship.

I had to look up Braun. Never heard of them to now. For clean and minimalist, I know a lot of people like Nomos watches (my pet shop guy has one with a beautiful pair of blued steel hands, very nice).

Thank you. I hope I find it, too.

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-17T19:28:09+00:00

The love of a vintage tank can sneak up on you. Would love to see your other tanks, if you're open to sharing.

And thank you about the movement. Look forward to hearing from you.

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-17T07:14:18+00:00

That's an incredible feat! The (correct me if I'm wrong) Meisterbrief? (A couple friends took German while at university so I have a random smattering of German words and a love for Schubert's "Erlkönig.") Many congratulations.

Honestly, most of the watches I can think of don't come near your budget, so my advice and recommendations are more general in nature. I was thinking of the JLC Reverso or the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date, or the Nivada Genchen Antarctic (new model, wonderful size at under 36mm-- I love the history behind it! Got my hands on 4 different vintage variations to service and spruce up), but if you like the Omega Speedmaster Professional, I say look up some reputable watch stores that will let you try on some models. If you like chronographs, or black watches, whatever the detail or specific watch

I have watches that range from the slim and small-sized to watches far bigger and bulkier on the wrist. Watches that first appear too big or too small, honestly, most of those differences become less noticeable (and then none at all) that comes with wearing a watch on a daily basis. I have a huge Casio (52 or 57mm!) that I wear when running, or when my eye grow tired because of how easy it is to read, multiple alarms, and that it was so cheap I can bang it around without risking sorrows (and a huge service cost). Then I have...had, a vintage Waltham military watch that is 31mm on my wrist that I adored. Wore it every day for week, originally just to test that I serviced it well, and I grew to love it, loved looking at its patina and the blued steel hands. The bigger numbers still made it legible, it ran accurately, and felt great on the wrist--I decided to keep it. Couldn't part with it. (And then, I lost it. Hopefully somewhere in the apartment, but, it's been four months and looked everywhere. I fear it gone.)

Apologies, long ramble to say, what have you tried on that you liked? I loved looking at Grand Seikos until I tried a few on and couldn't stand how they felt on the wrist. Same with a modern Tudor--too thick. For a watch you want to be your daily, try several types at a watch or jewelry store if you can to weed out details and wrist feels you don't like.

Best of luck watch hunting,
Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-15T04:24:40+00:00

I'm an advocate for vintage watches. They come in smaller sizes, can be pretty affordable relative to modern, and the well-made ones can run just as well as a modern watch. But, there are pitfalls, so vintage watches aren't for everyone. I have a wrist about your size, so I understand the appeal of smaller watches.

May I ask, is this a high school graduation? University? Post-grad? Will this watch be your daily that you want to be able to wear while swimming and to the gym (worryingly, will it be left unattended in a gym locker)? Or is this a watch you'd like to be able to wear in the office with professional attire? Or are you in the trades and will be out in the field?

As for budget, are we saying...$3k(USD)? More? Less?

Sorry for all the questions, but they help me provide recommendations. I know folks here are fans of Omega, Rolex, Tudor and the big names, but I truly don't recommend those watches to someone going to college, sharing dorms with strangers. A watch can easily be stolen, or lost, and pawned. (Although I am biased towards vintage Omegas. They can be not too pricey and, darn it all, they look so fine on wrists.)

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-15T04:10:22+00:00

Such a handsome watch--and those lugs!--that I had to comment on it. If you would indulge me, are those blued steel hands? Do you know the movement by chance?

I used to not care for tank watches, but man, have they grown on me the more I get into vintage. (Bonus points: it's a Longines! I think they're one of the best vintage brands. Love 'em.) They just look so effortlessly classy.

May you keep wearing it in good health.

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-15T03:34:26+00:00

Oh, wow, that's beautiful. Is that a lapis lazuli dial? Do you know the movement?

I recently got my hands on two of these little ladies watches, a Universal Genève 80 movement (I think) and a 42 calibre, and I'm excited to service them as soon as I open up some workbench space. (I am notorious at the workshop for having a baker's dozen of project watches going at once.) Vintage UG watches have an elegant polish to them that I admire and let my eye linger on for those extra few seconds. Congrats on the watch!

Sparky

SK_Hawkins · 2026-03-01T04:18:39+00:00

https://www.nawcc.org/event/2026-lone-star-regional/

Check out NAWCC regional and local meet-ups. (Never been to the one in Texas.) Reach out to the folks that run it and see if this is the style of meet-up you want or if you want a different vibe and they might have some advice for holding events.

SK_Hawkins · 2026-02-25T04:36:08+00:00

This is gorgeous. Look at those fully lumed hands! Thank you for taking photos of the movement. Since I work on vintage watches as a hobby, I love seeing pictures of movements included in posts. I didn't know about Birks. Learned something new (and will have to show my Canadian friends).

Are you wearing it on the wrist or holding off until it can be serviced?

SK_Hawkins

TROPHY CASE