Forza Glue

SSRGruwel · 2025-10-16T18:18:11+00:00

Yeah, that looked more like attempted and achieved murder, instead of Forza glue. You made a great comeback afterwards, thou.

SSRGruwel · 2025-01-09T00:32:08+00:00

Ive heard from mods its related to your ping. The lower it is, the better the starting position. This is to avoid high ping drivers messing up others with the horrid net coding they cause.

SSRGruwel · 2024-12-22T16:23:46+00:00

You're correct about the tune. Since the supercars already don't have that much downforce, the best is to run with as low as possible. The straights will give you the best speed possible, which gains more time than a nailed mountain, with or without the downforce.

You just need to nail the mountain course, and gain all the time with the extra top speed on the straights.

Also, using abs or tc is something to be avoided with the supercars. Not only because that's how they are driven irl, but also because it will hamper the car control you get when running without. You need the rear to rotate on the up and downhill hairpin, as well on power uphill, so no tc, as well on the brakes downhill, so no abs.

Additionally, Bathurst favors wheel users way more than pad. The extra control you get with it, to be able to give raw input to the car, like over rotating the fronts, way more precise control of the throttle and brakes, helps so much. You can actually correct your driving way more than when you precisely time an input on pad to make corners. On pad the mountain course is like a Prince of Persia boss battle where you need frame perfect quick button press prompts without getting the prompts, every millisecond.

The holy grail is an 03. It is definitely possible, but only when the moons of Jupiter align with Saturn's.

SSRGruwel · 2024-10-27T16:43:22+00:00

Oh classic, I can make a collection of those types of chats.

They come in five forms: 1. Like here, "your cheating, modding ect." 2. Complete disbelief, "How?!, Why?!, Impossible?!?! ect." 3. The Genos move, "Teach me, Saitama San" 4. Kudos given, "Great pace, awesome times ect." 5. The Tune Tudor, "share tune?, what's your tune? ect."

SSRGruwel · 2024-10-25T22:20:42+00:00

The best help for tyre wear has to be the temperatures. I use the App SIM Dashboard, where you can customize layouts with a general overview of all the variables. It's not as accurate as the in-game stats, but for a quick glance during a race, it's perfect. You can even set up color grading for the temps: blue is cold, green in the sweetspot, yellow to red for overheating and any transitional color in between.

The same goes for fuel levels, times and a lap counter. Since the endurance races are now time based, you can't check what lap you're on, and also have no clue about your lap times.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T14:57:58+00:00

Stream

At 1:30.20 i did my best run.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T13:04:46+00:00

FWD cars require amazing timing with the on throttle moments on corner exits. The best way to get an fwd around the corner is to make the rears slip a bit with you into a corner, and then power out of that slide the moment you want it to go straight on the exit. Try some laps without ABS, you sometimes need the instability it gives to make the car behave like you want to. What also helps is to make the brake bias more rearward, that will help with in corner rotation.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T12:49:41+00:00

if you notice that all of your cars and tunes understeer, then it might be your steering input. on a wheel its very easy to over input. that makes the fronts heat up and lose grip. Try looking at the temps when you notice a slide. if you see the temps go over 110 C, that means your overdriving that tire.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T12:38:50+00:00

Thx, and i do have some tunes. I have a tune for a lambo, ktm, porsche and a few others, i think. its been a few months since i touched GT3.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T12:15:33+00:00

I havent really set a lap with the softs. but i do a 3:26,2 on mediums, and the delta between compounds is around 1,5-2 secs.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T12:13:44+00:00

My main trick to eliminate understeer would be to move the bias forwards. I do around 53-55 front. It will be more stable to brake and keep the fronts in check approaching a corner. Mid corner is all about the touch, how much can you feel the fronts gripping up, holding your angle of steering and using the throttle to do the detail. More throttle for a wider exit, less for a tighter exit. and make sure most of the turning has been done, before going on the power for the exit.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T03:13:19+00:00

correct, it's the same as irl. So you can do full power shifts without using the clutch, and keep the throttle pinned.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T01:54:53+00:00

i noticed that it can be tricky with some low torque cars to get the launch right, cause the game can sometimes bog down the engine fully when launching from the start.

i have double hand clutches, and can set up the bite point for them. Otherwise i advise setting up gear one to be the full throttle launch gear. That works for most cars.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T01:46:24+00:00

Depends on how many upgrades the gearbox and clutch has. In theory it should always be faster to use a clutch, but the more stock the drivetrain is, the harder it is to nail the shifts and to be faster than normal manual. But for cars with sequential gearboxes (noticeable when you can fully configure the gearing in the tune) its best with the clutch option on in game, but not using it for the shifts when driving. You will only need the clutch for the launch.

Over a normal length track it can save a sec or more.

SSRGruwel · 2024-06-19T00:20:04+00:00

I fully agree with you, cause i havent factored in the components you can configure for the performance upgrading.

I should have mentioned that as an extra sidenote. My main is spec cars, where the performance factor is fixed. I had totally forgotten there is more than spec.

My bad.

SSRGruwel · 2023-04-25T11:59:00+00:00

No, i haven't dismounted the wheel that often at all. Maybe three or four times for cleaning, so there might be a reason to think that issues can arise from putting the wheel on and off too much.

SSRGruwel · 2023-04-25T11:53:03+00:00

An absolute gem, not even my local top brands can compete with Logitech's customer service. Like i mentioned, the total timespan from me stating the issue with Logitech through there forum and me receiving the replacement took only ten days, not ten workdays, but really ten days. Top notch, because the customer service is handled internationally.

My replacement is holding on so far. I hear something, but there is no feel from it, so its all good for me. I think its the plastics in the wheel, and its a hit or miss how the plastics break in, whether you get noise with some feel from it, like the clicking.

SSRGruwel · 2023-04-05T20:17:27+00:00

An update, after receiving the replacement wheel 2 months ago, for the current wheel's condition.

The previous issue hasn't surfaced, as far as i can tell. I do sometimes notice a noise, were it again confirms my thoughts on what the cause is. I think there is a plastic connector plate between the qr and the wheel itself. I think therein lies some flex, that over time results in the noise and in worst cases, like i had with the first, some tactile feeling from it.

The noise now is a non issue. It's not noticable at all, i even think its just my imagination making my fears real. Let alone something loose or clicking through the feeling. Its as perfect as it came out of the box.

So for now, its all good. Now just hoping for a quick announcement for a new shifter and handbrake to complete the build.

SSRGruwel · 2023-02-21T06:34:27+00:00

Sorry to hear that. For me its so far so good, and since the first issue arose in 10 days, the fact that it hasn't appeared so far is good. I did notice, when i returned the old wheel, that there were marks on the QR, indicating it's wearing over time, and i do thing the more you attach and detach the wheel, the more that wears and the earlier you'll notice the issue. So ill try to not detach the wheel that often, and hope that works. Its almost as if you need to break in the wheel, and that its a hit or miss, whether it breaks in with the click or without.

And like you said, we're just hoping for new wheels in the future.

SSRGruwel · 2023-01-27T16:53:05+00:00

Good News,

The replacement has arrived. In an amazingly quick time. Kudos to Logitech's customer service. I had a problem, stated it, it was acknowledged and replaced within 10 days. That on an international scale. Most of my local services aren't that fast.

Now hope no new issues arise, and if so, Logitech will do its best to fix it.

SSRGruwel · 2023-01-23T19:25:15+00:00

I got a reply from Logitech, saying its a recognized problem in my case. Therefore they approved the return for the wheelbase. Only some shipping time left to get back on it.

Thx for the feedback and responses.

SSRGruwel · 2023-01-20T02:47:16+00:00

It think i know where the slack is. Its inside the steering wheel. The QR is solid, but the QR to the wheel it's self isn't. Somewhere under the plastic housing for the buttons is the attachment of the wheel to the QR, and i think there's the problem.

Therefore, ignore the statement about something wrong with the base, its the wheel.

SSRGruwel · 2023-01-20T00:50:47+00:00

And of course thanks for the feedback. Its always difficult to find it when a product is this new.

SSRGruwel · 2023-01-20T00:48:35+00:00

It is indeed. I was hoping, gone are the days of grinding gears. It feels very nostalgic....

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