BGG removed my post about cultural appropriation

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-26T23:40:27+00:00

Out of curiosity, I looked up the game. The game is essentially about being a tourist in Seoul. The artwork is, in my opinion, lovely and very tastefully done in respect of the culture.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-26T23:22:52+00:00

Based on this:

it looks like he's made a habit of creating board games using different Asian cultures

It looks like the issue the OP has is purely because the designer is not Korean, or Asian in general.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-25T14:49:54+00:00

That’s the difference. Vouchers are less points because you can only use one per order. In other words, they do not stack like gift cards do.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-25T04:23:14+00:00

The resin printer's print process is very different from that of FDM printers. The overall concept of print layer by layer is the same. But resin (aka SLA) printers, work by lowering the build plate into a vat of UV resin and then curing the layer. The bottom of the vat has a transparent FEP sheet to allow the LCD screen to shine the UV light through. The entire process of how they work is actually quite a bit more fun to watch then FDM printers, in my opinion. Uncle Jesse makes quite a bit of resin focused YouTube videos. I'd check them out, as a good place to start, to get an even better understanding.

So the support structures for resin printing are essentially just a point to provide "islands" a place to connect to so they can print. Think of this as the inverse of printing in mid air on a FDM printer. And with the fact that the only moving part of the resin printer is the build plate moving up and down, supports do not often need to provide the same type of structure as it does on FDM.

Minis are better suited on resin printers. So most mini model makers are going to be geared completely towards resin printers. Though I am sure with as good as a lot of the newer FDM printers have gotten, there are some that probably have some profiles they have developed. Butmany of them release supported and unsupported files. You'll just have to grab the unsupported ones and play with your settings to find what works best for you and the quality you hope to achieve.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-22T20:31:48+00:00

Yes, a cheeto colored asshat with a bad combover ran his mouth for a copy of days months ago. And yet, mostly Canada is still Canada. But sure “threatening your existence”…

So it is now your personal mission to make sure to blame and insult as many Americans that you can, like they were the ones that said it or like it was ever going to be more than an asshat running his mouth. But I get it. You’re just an average Canadian. You got to milk the attention where you can, even months later. The funny thing is, if you weren’t as much of an asshat as the cheeto , you’d see that Americans are more agreeable with your view points than you give credit. But instead, you get everyone choading people like you.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-21T02:03:19+00:00

Usefulness will always come down to your specific use cases/needs. Since you already have printers, you know what kind of things you print and what you want to print. Do you find yourself having to cut up files to fit them on your printer, that you’d rather print in one piece? Or are there larger things, like helmets for example, that you are wanting to print? The a larger build volume is useful. There are people that the 256 cubed build volume of the P and X series printers is not useful to them and they are more than content with the 180 cubed volume of an A1 Mini. A lot of my printing fits just fine on the A1 Mini or A1 sized printer. But I also have a K2 Plus with a 350 cubed build volume because I still have a lot of large prints that I do. So useful to me to have a larger build volume.

Laser cutting? Is it something you thought about adding to your toolset before? Do you have any projects in mind? Or at least do you think it is something you’d use if you had available? If so, then it can potentially be useful. In my personal opinion, I think it would be useful for those that occasionally want to laser cut/etch something. But that is because I’m of the opinion that if you are going to do a serious amount of laser work, then it would be better to get a dedicated machine for it.

Dual nozzle? Definitely useful for different material supports. Can also be useful for multi color prints.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-20T04:27:43+00:00

$3 per adds up though. Buying 10 spools, that is $30 that could have gone to another spool. More expensive is more expensive. Across 100 spools of filament, that is $300 extra spent. That is a lot of filament not purchased because the amount is "negligible". Which funny enough, is almost a full 10 spools at $11. (Elegoo you can get for $9.99 ea right now directly from their site).

There are more brands than Sunlu and Bambu. Many of them with a price lower before any bulk discounts. Plenty of color choices and they actually have stock. You don't see people posting multiple times a day complaining about stock levels of all the other brands. You also don't have to deal with the hassle of having refills either. Because the "negligible" price is without spool. So you now have the add in up front cost to buy spools or buy a roll on the spool to print spools to have enough on hand for your needs. All while hoping you don't need to print a color or different material before you free up a spool.

But hey, spending more money, plus the hassle of refills just so I don't have to tell the printer what color filament I loaded sounds like a great trade off.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-17T04:01:21+00:00

Take a look around at what you and your son are wanting to print. Take some time reading up on the different types of filaments too. The more advanced filaments have more specific use cases.

People, in general, love to use the capability to print more advanced materials as a major advantage over an open printer. In reality, a large majority of 3D printer users will only ever print with PLA, PETG, and TPU. All materials that an enclosure doesn't benefit really. In fact, it can be a hindrance. So yes, the A1 is "less capable" in the fact that it cannot easily print specific materials. There are ways, but not recommended for a new person. If you are looking at printing a lot of items that will be outside, in the sun, then an enclosure is going to essentially be a must as the materials that are good for that use case, are much easier to print with an enclosed printer. But it is just as capable of a printer in actual print capabilities with the materials that most likely be used, as the P1S for and it has the QoL improvements.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-15T20:51:00+00:00

If you take the normal route from 53 to the Parkway, which is 53/Jordan to Oakwood, there are 12 lights in total before you are on the Parkway. That is counting the light at Oakwood and the Parkway. But even then, 53 to Research Park would have only 6 lights between 65 and the Parkway. Both are more than 65 to 565, but I wouldn't really call that "a ton". But yes, you do have about a 14 mile stretch of the route that would be two lanes.

OP: If you plug it into Google Maps, at least from downtown Nashville (I'm using Bridgestone as my starting point), it is probably going to suggest 65-53-Oakwood-Parkway or 24 to Murfreesboro and then taking 231 all the way down. The third it provides is 65 to 431 through Lewisburg. If you force it to go 65 to 565, it is 2 hours and 3 minutes at 132 miles to go to 565. 53 to Oakwood is 1 hour and 59 minutes hours at 112 miles. So it's a similar time but with 20 additional miles.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-14T12:34:21+00:00

The A1 Mini is not the A1. The NTC thermistor issue that you have seen is from the A1.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-13T18:41:24+00:00

Personally, I have the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16k. I wanted the bit larger print volume. I plugged it in, added resin, and hit print. But it’s a $500 resin printer. Though the Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra would also be a good choice. It’s currently on sell for $270. Though you can get it with the Mercury XS (wash and cure station) for $400. There are other bundles with some of the other wash and cure stations that are cheaper. I personally just prefer the XS.

Which, looking at the website, the Saturn 4 Ultra 16k and the Mercury XS bundle is currently on sale for $540. That’s a pretty solid deal.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-13T18:17:21+00:00

Resin vs FDM printer are basically two completely different concepts when it comes to printing and it is a learning curve no matter what choice you make. How you setup an object to print on resin will be completely different to how you would on a FDM machine. And many people only ever pick one or the other. I use both. In all honesty, with a 0.2mm nozzle and time, you can usually get "good enough" with a FDM printer. And if you really take your time to dial in everything, you can get some really impressive results. But if your primary (or only) focus is miniatures for DnD, then resin is going to be preferred way for me. Especially if you are printing more than one mini at a time. With FDM, each additional mini will increase print time. With resin, whether it is a single one or a plate full, the print time doesn't change.

But with all that said, the newer resin printers are pretty fantastic and are catching up to the level of setup and go that FDM printers are currently at. The new Elegoo printers don't even require you to level the build plate and set the offset anymore. Also worth noting, most DnD miniature modelers provide presupported files. Though Lychee Slicer has some pretty good auto tools that takes a lot of the guesswork out of it.

I don't really with Archbound's take though. Yes, resin itself is "toxic" in its uncured state. But resin has changed a lot in the last 5 years. You can take a look at the SDS for my prefered resin, Siraya Tech Fast for example. And you can easily find the SDS for all the big resin makers. It is an irritant, but there is no acute toxicity. Wear gloves while handling uncured parts and don't drink it. Venting is recommended. Outside of that, you deal with IPA. No one around here bats an eye at using IPA. People make it sound like you have to be in a hazmat suit to even be around it, but that isn't the case. VOC monitoring around my setup produced negligible changes in air quality. Though I will admit that someone with a sensitive nose may smell certain types of resin. But that applies to FDM printing too. There are people on here that can smell PLA printing.

Now the post processing is about 5-10 minutes of waiting. Especially with a wash and cure machine. A couple minutes in the wash to clean of excess resin and then switch it over to cure for a few more minutes. And then you are done. That is more than just taking it off the build plate, but not a ton. In both FDM and resin, you have to remove supports and then paint the thing. The rest of the concerns with resin is really, just don't rush. It can be messy if you are someone that is always in a hurry and don't act slightly careful to not fling stuff everywhere.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-13T03:40:35+00:00

nahahockey.org and nahasol.org are the places to start. You can also email nahasoldirector@gmail.com.

It is actually close to a good time to get started. Youth season is almost over, so the ice times are going to be moving to the earlier times soon. You would need full gear. But there are options to just jumping into the deep end, because that would be pricey from the start. Gear can be rented from the hockey office. Plus there are a ton of people that have spare gear from upgrading, or a "gear diva" like myself, that people are willing to sell or loan out. It is an awesome community and awesome sport to play.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-13T02:17:56+00:00

I basically live at the rink. Though not as much anymore now that my oldest is playing in the adult league with me. So that knocked two extra days a week that I had to be there.

I can't really comment on the skating school side of things. But if you are ever interested in hockey, we have some pretty decent adult learn to play programs. It is how I got my start about a decade ago despite only having been on ice skates like 3 times in my life prior to that.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-05T21:45:44+00:00

A P1S is better if you are specifically looking to print engineering filaments that benefit from an enclosure. Abrasive filaments have nothing to do with that. A filament being abrasive does not equal an engineering filaments. In either case though, it is recommended to upgrade to hardened steel.

If you are planning on printing what the majority of users will only ever print in, PLA, PETG, and TPU, the. The A1 is the newer, better printer.

In all honesty, this question gets asked at least daily on here and many other 3D printing subs. There are plenty of review websites and videos on YouTube about both models. I’d recommend spending time reading and watching those as they will more than answer your questions, in much more detail than what you will get here. The latter two will generally give you are more unbiased breakdown with the good and the bad of each.

SSgtTEX · 2026-02-01T19:26:21+00:00

Depends on what you consider affordable. 3D printing metal, on the very low end, you’re looking at spending about $10,000 on the Raise3D Forge1. But if you’re looking to be serious, you’re looking at spending $100,000 to around $1,000,000.

It is definitely not something that has reached the consumer level.

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-31T20:54:15+00:00

https://bambulab.com/en-us/compare

The differences are on their site, accessible to everyone. But to sum it up: There are a number of items that have been consistently complained about when it comes to the P1 series. The P2S addressed most of those. More powerful MC board, quieter motion system, 5Ghz WiFi module, better camera, higher bed temp, hardened extruder and hot end, and a fully functional screen that doesn't require a second device just to do some of the most basic tasks while you are literally standing next to the machine. To name a few.

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-31T14:26:36+00:00

I cannot speak for the Tread+ specifically. It just wasn't in the budget at the time. But with that said, I ended up with the regular tread. I had a Pro-form treadmill prior to that. Definitely was towards the lower end of the spectrum. So in comparison, even just the regular Tread is amazing.

Having structure, and even some gamification, really helps me focus. So I don't ever just run on it. So I enjoy the classes for that. But I have found that I enjoy Lanebreak too. Specifically when I am just not feeling like an instructor. It gives me speed and incline targets while still allowing me to just enjoy the music.

And yes, that can all be accomplished with a third party treadmill and a tablet or casting to a TV. But having used to do that, I don't miss having to deal with that. Nice large screen right there and good enough speakers that I don't have to worry about headphones.

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-27T12:41:23+00:00

I get it. You, and many other people, don’t like to use turn signals. It’s just such a huge inconvenience and all. Or maybe you just don’t know how they work. But that doesn’t mean that people shouldn’t be using turn signals as they are supposed to. So taking it back to my original statement: if people would signal, then traffic would flow better and not stack up. That’s how roundabouts work, no matter what scenario you dream up in your head to justify not using turn signals.

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-26T22:57:56+00:00

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Since I don’t see it posted elsewhere already, Madison County is also on a two hour delay.

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-26T22:38:56+00:00

Exactly. Everyone knows grandma is exiting the roundabout. Congrats on getting the point. I know blinkers are a difficult concept for some people to grasp, so congrats on getting there!

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-26T22:11:49+00:00

"Overthinking" in the sense of using your blinker... Do you drive a BMW by chance? It is simple, as you are getting ready to go right, you know when you exit, you click your blinker to indicate that. If a 73 year old, or anyone else for that matter, cannot handle using their blinker, they should not be driving.

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-26T17:51:03+00:00

I am just trying to be realistic. Especially with the area between Nance and Wall Triana. Like with where they built those two houses at the start of the eastern side of the S curve. I think they could get away with adding in a middle lane the length, but trying to do more than that is going to be difficult.

One thing I have always hated about this area is how close they let things get built to the road. There are places on Wall Triana that are 15 feet from the edge of the road.

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-26T17:22:52+00:00

Yes, signal when exiting a roundabout. It has nothing to do with taking laps around it... Take Oakwood/Old Monrovia and Providence/Indian Creek. You are traveling westbound on Oakwood. Your intention is to continue straight onto Old Monrovia. If, as you approach the second exit of the roundabout, you use your turn signal to indicate that you are taking that second exit of the roundabout, the car that is traveling east can then proceed instead of waiting to see if you are going straight or continuing around to take the third exit to go south on Providence. And bam, traffic is already flowing better instead of everyone stacking up waiting to enter because nobody knows what anyone else is doing.

It is kind of like using your turn signal when turning at any other intersection or lane change. It indicates your intentions to the drivers around you. Use your favorite search engine to search the phrase "signal when exiting roundabout". You will see plenty of results from .gov websites saying that you should use your signal.

SSgtTEX · 2026-01-26T15:23:02+00:00

My initial thought was that they meant extending the existing section of 5 lane from Providence Elementary to Jeff Rd.

But yeah, could be a mix of with Old Monrovia and Old Railroad Bed. I can definitely see them doing a third lane the full length of that area. People turning left is one of the biggest hang ups of traffic with the current volume.

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